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Code 29DC but interesting fix
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05-17-2012, 08:34 PM | #23 |
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anyone else getting 29DC cynlider injection switch-off?
in my case, i don't always get a SEL, and it doesn't always go into a limp-type mode. i say limp-type b/c it's absolutely running on less than 6 cyl but there's no SEL light. it's not always WOT, sometimes it's 3/4 throttle. it won't happen down low, only over say 4000rpm. just want to be sure it's the lpfp before i get into it.
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07-07-2012, 08:42 PM | #24 | |
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09-08-2012, 06:15 PM | #25 |
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I just got 29DC about 30 minutes ago. I went to fill up a tank of gas at Costco and got on the freeway (Less then one mile after fill up with 93 octane). I floored it to pass a line of slow cars on the right line, after passing 2 cars I felt something shudder and I let off the gas. Got off the freeway and I could feel the car shaking lightly. No CEL/SES lights but at a stop light I could feel the car shake like its having a hard time maintaining idle. Acceleration was non-existant, I could only gently get up to speed.
I babied the car home for about 4 miles and then pulled the code (29DC), cleared the code and then went on a WOT run up and down the freeway with no problems. The only thing I have recently done is the past 3 weeks is walnut blasting and new spark plugs. At the same time I had added an AR DP with DP fix set at 5 o'clock, BMS OCC, and a ER FMIC full kit with charge pipe Tial BOV VTA. I already had the JB4 and BMS DCI I suspect that the 5 o'clock setting might be a little weak (but hasn't tossed any codes in the past 750 miles). I think i need to have it at 4 o'clock or possibly 4:30?? This is the first time I got this code, last week my wife got some code for the yellow engine symbol and a yellow 4x4 disable symbol (had her clear the codes without checking them. The car never gave any codes before this. - Faz Last edited by fazman; 09-08-2012 at 06:21 PM.. |
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09-11-2012, 09:21 PM | #26 | |
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09-11-2012, 09:21 PM | #27 | |
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10-19-2012, 06:46 PM | #28 |
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so whats the conclusion fellas ie the fix for the 29dc code? ive read on the sticky section a fuel pump is normally needed for replace...is that the hpfp or the lpfp? the sticky didnt specify and thiers mixed opinions from what ive read...
i had my car codes read by some and 29dc was the only code....car goes into limp mode on WOT or even close to WOT....sometimes just over 70mph sometimes even in 1st gear... possible thiers more codes maybe that only dealer tools can read? my car is totally standard just under 100k. its doing it alot more often now.it doesnt have long starts i WAS getting the service light on but since ive serviced my car (pads) no lights pop up or anyhting (those usual apparaent tell tale signs of the hpfp) |
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10-19-2012, 10:51 PM | #29 | |
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10-19-2012, 11:29 PM | #30 |
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Have to check running diagnostics either with INPA, Autologic, GT1, or BT tool, or take the car to a skilled shop, or start replacing parts. The LP sensor is inexpensive, so an easy first attempt if you have no way to log ECU functions.
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10-20-2012, 12:18 AM | #31 |
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hmm so il start with trying to get the fuel pressure sensor read and/or maybe replace it...then the pressure tested from the lpfp to see if it reads ok (if i can find some 1 to do this for me)
can some 1 tell me the purpose of the hpfp? i'd assume its related to driving the car faster/accelerating harder to pressurise more fuel in? thing is if i drive the car normal it is totally fine so under that assumption id assume the lpfp would be fine.... does any 1 know a decent garage some where in west yorkshire, england for me to take my car to who'l be able to do tests as oppose to play the guessing game on my time/money. i knew a few guys who pretty knowledgable in general but might not know if the readings they might be able to give me are upto specs.il try get some and check with some one if they are upto par. if i can manage to get the problem fixed soon il be buying the jb4 with the usb cable etc i assume that will be sufficient for readings codes and outputs etc etc ?? thanks for the input!! haha i gotta say i love driving this car.power all the way across the rev range off your gone smoothly/swiftly with a low rumble. p.s drove my other option of car the other day audi s5...it felt dead and slow, not as responsive and the car didnt feel very good to drive..nice engine burble, bit of a posers car really.i know i made the right choice.oh and we even dragged a few times on the motor on a quiet night i was surprised the bmw was edging even though the s5 had a bigger engine/more power.! |
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02-15-2013, 11:20 PM | #33 | |
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02-15-2013, 11:59 PM | #34 |
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e85 will make the LPFP work harder. It's a quick fix. Just make sure your tank is almost empty before you do replace the pump. Your car will smell like gas for a couple of days, just keep a window open so it will air out. I started getting codes after about 60% ethanol content. Now that I have a booster pump, I haven't had any issues and I'm running over 80% ethanol. Good luck.
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02-16-2013, 12:35 AM | #35 | |
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02-16-2013, 02:08 AM | #36 | |
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02-17-2013, 12:17 PM | #37 |
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Engine protection
Fuel cut out faults and boost deactivation faults all occur in response to something els. What the dme is doing is protecting the engine from damage. The root cause could be anything from weak coils to wastage solenoid valves. It doesn't necessarily mean a problem in the fuel system. Be cautious on replacing parts prematurely.
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03-16-2013, 01:41 AM | #39 | |
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04-08-2013, 02:04 PM | #40 |
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Spark plug are in good conditions ?
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09-25-2013, 04:44 PM | #41 |
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I just installed my brand new COBB V3 and took the car for a ride. It was a huge delight but after a while I got into some problems that I need advice on.
I was driving for about an hour on highway and other roads and pushing the car, no problems. Then I tried the "0-100 kmh performance measure" feature once with no problem but on the second run, exactly when I shift from 2nd to 3rd the car sort of brakes in, cuts power and start vibrating and I also got some smell in the cabin of something burnt. No warning lights on the display though. I slowly drive to the side, steering wheel shaking and car almost doesn't respond to throttle input, stop the engine and restart and it runs fine. I check codes and have the two following: P2AAF P29DC I clear them, also resets ECU learning and codes and push the car again. Now this time I don't dare to do 0-100 times but try to go on 2nd gear WOT from about 2500rpm up to about 6000 before shifting to 3rd , going WOT through this one and then shifting to 4th and slowly braking. No problems occur but I see that error code P2AAF is there once again. After some searching on the forums I find some indications on that I need to change the Low Pressure Fuel Pump but some also say it's nothing to worry about and "normal with COBB". What do you guys think? I will try to list the parameters I can think of that might be of interest t I use: * Stg1 LT Sport I480S v401 * aFe Cold Air Intake (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag..._installed.jpg) * VRSF 7" FMIC * VRSF Charge Pipe * Shell 98+ octane (as per Euro metrics), never ran anything below 98 octane the last 4 years. * About 40389 miles on spark plugs (about 65000 km) I will try to log also soon, I realized that the logs will help a lot... So what do you guys think? Ignore it or do some maintenance already?!? Walnut Blasting is not something done commonly in Europe but as I understand it is less likely to cause a problem over here because of the better quality of the gas? (That's just what I heard) |
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09-25-2013, 05:10 PM | #42 | |
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Also not sure about better gas reducing the need to walnut blast. Since the reason we have to walnut blast in the first place is because the fuel does not wash the valves anymore like in normal engines I kind of doubt it would have anything to do with it but I have been wrong before
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Last edited by deathbunny; 09-25-2013 at 06:28 PM.. |
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