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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Pictures: Electric water pump + thermostat replace



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      12-06-2013, 07:03 PM   #199
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Originally Posted by Three_thirty_I View Post
Let the engine cool down and then check the level in the coolant reservoir - if low then top up with 50% BMW antifreeze and 50% distilled water until the level is correct. A further step that I would suggest is to let the cooling system run a few vent cycles (procedure should be mentioned at the beginning of this thread I would imagine). Some recommend putting the battery on charge while doing this, but if the battery is still healthy it really shouldn't need this for 1, but even 2 vent cycles.

Ultimately you would need to trace the coolant leak. But hope this helps.
I tried to run the vent cycle but nothing is happening.......assume that means the water pump is dead?

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      12-07-2013, 04:57 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cali View Post
I tried to run the vent cycle but nothing is happening.......assume that means the water pump is dead?

Cali
When it's running you will hear it from the lower side of the engine bay below the exhaust and in front of the exhaust manifold. It's not very loud, but you will easily hear it as it goes through the motions - there is a vid on YouTube that will give you an idea of what it sounds like. If the pump has failed there should be an error code.
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      12-20-2013, 01:04 PM   #201
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Engine-W...a519b7&vxp=mtr

Pierberg water pump + haman thermostat for 360$ on ebay?

buy or pay more for a bmw one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Thermost...c86661&vxp=mtr

466$ for this one?
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      02-16-2014, 12:09 AM   #202
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      02-16-2014, 12:10 AM   #203
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      03-23-2014, 02:37 PM   #204
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I wonder if anyone here could help with part # for the US version connector used to connect to the water pump. That and the pins and grommets parts #.

Bought the US version water pump with square 4 pin socket , not the wide 4 pin European version.
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      04-15-2014, 09:59 PM   #205
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It took awhile but I just read this entire thread and Koodos! to you guys! I now have the knoweledge to DIY this EWP repair! Thank s guys, Ill let you know how it goes.
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      04-16-2014, 05:12 AM   #206
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It took awhile but I just read this entire thread and Koodos! to you guys! I now have the knoweledge to DIY this EWP repair! Thank s guys, Ill let you know how it goes.
Go to the DIY forum. Eninty wrote an excellent DIY for the water pump and T-stat repair on the 325i. I've attached it in case you can't find it.
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File Type: pdf Water Pump_T-stat DIY.pdf (110.6 KB, 56 views)
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      04-20-2014, 08:49 PM   #207
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Just did this myself last thrusday, super easy for sure. Just over 2 hours on my back in the driveway. Scored a cash n carry deal at dealer got both water pump and thermostat for 571$ out the door.
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      06-01-2014, 01:58 PM   #208
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I'm in the middle of replacing my pump/stat now. Everything has gone smoothly so far, except for getting the hoses off the thermostat. Has anyone else run into difficulty prying loose the hard plastic hoses off the tstat? Mine seem stuck.
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      06-15-2014, 11:03 AM   #209
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Finished this last night: some thoughts/tips

1) Taking the fan off is a must. Good pdf writeup can be found within this thread. The only thing missing was there is another torx screw holding the auto trans cooler to the fan. You need to remove that screw (easy, no big deal). The person who wrote that probably doesn't have auto.

2). Someone also suggested on here to take off the passenger side wheel well. I did and I think it gave me better viewing angles (maybe even more room).

3) you must watch the bav auto videos within this thread posted by someone. Very informative with great ideas.

4) I removed the T-stat bolts and water pump bolts later on in the project. When removing hoses you don't want everything moving around (better leverage).

5) I believe the video talks about silicone spray. Well, YOU NEED IT. Hoses are all fused on. Here is how I tackled the hoses: Hoses with clamps: Pried up the hose using a long skinny screwdriver, then sprayed silicone spray in gap. This helps with removing the hose by either with your hands or prying it out with the screwdriver. Hoses with quick-connects. Pull up on quick-connect metal holder, then remove it. Place silicone spray in any openings in quick connect. Now the tricky part: use a pry bar (yes pry bar; not screwdriver) and GENTLY pry up the hose from the sides that have the small bump sticking out. Do a little prying on one side (sometimes this works). If not, then start prying from the other side.

6) silicone spray the heck out of every hose connection ( and even within the hose; where the hose connects to the part) prior to reconnecting. I also sprayed all the hose connections on the pump and t-stat. Makes everything go in much easier.

Attached are the pics for the craftsman pry bar and the silicone spray. I believe I used the middle pry bar.

7) If you decide to connect the T-stat hoses first then you will need to have a 10mm ratchet wrench to get the hard to reach water pump bolt. Note: for the water pump bolts I used a 12 point 10mm socket.

Good luck everyone! Thanks for everyone's input.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      06-15-2014, 11:03 AM   #210
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Here is the silicone spray I used.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      06-15-2014, 12:09 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriztofor View Post
Finished this last night: some thoughts/tips

1) Taking the fan off is a must. Good pdf writeup can be found within this thread. The only thing missing was there is another torx screw holding the auto trans cooler to the fan. You need to remove that screw (easy, no big deal). The person who wrote that probably doesn't have auto.

2). Someone also suggested on here to take off the passenger side wheel well. I did and I think it gave me better viewing angles (maybe even more room).

3) you must watch the bav auto videos within this thread posted by someone. Very informative with great ideas.

4) I removed the T-stat bolts and water pump bolts later on in the project. When removing hoses you don't want everything moving around (better leverage).

5) I believe the video talks about silicone spray. Well, YOU NEED IT. Hoses are all fused on. Here is how I tackled the hoses: Hoses with clamps: Pried up the hose using a long skinny screwdriver, then sprayed silicone spray in gap. This helps with removing the hose by either with your hands or prying it out with the screwdriver. Hoses with quick-connects. Pull up on quick-connect metal holder, then remove it. Place silicone spray in any openings in quick connect. Now the tricky part: use a pry bar (yes pry bar; not screwdriver) and GENTLY pry up the hose from the sides that have the small bump sticking out. Do a little prying on one side (sometimes this works). If not, then start prying from the other side.

6) silicone spray the heck out of every hose connection ( and even within the hose; where the hose connects to the part) prior to reconnecting. I also sprayed all the hose connections on the pump and t-stat. Makes everything go in much easier.

Attached are the pics for the craftsman pry bar and the silicone spray. I believe I used the middle pry bar.

7) If you decide to connect the T-stat hoses first then you will need to have a 10mm ratchet wrench to get the hard to reach water pump bolt. Note: for the water pump bolts I used a 12 point 10mm socket.

Good luck everyone! Thanks for everyone's input.

I believe taking the fan off a a waste of time, I opened the hood to only add coolant. Also taking the wheels off and wheel wells also a waste. Long flat head and snap on pry bars are a must. Long 1/4 inch extensions and universal are a must. If many people are to work on their own cars, just invest in E series sockets. I've read many many DIY on this forum and 90% say they take more time than it really does. I was able to do my DP and waterpump / thermostat in 4 hours. Proper tools makes all the diffrence.
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      06-16-2014, 09:12 AM   #212
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The only thing that I might add to what has already been said is that if you're thinking about replacing the motor mounts any time soon, do it at the same time you do the water pump + tstat! Those those two parts out of the way, it makes it MUCH easier to get the old mount out/new mount in on the passenger side, etc. Well worth the extra few hours needed to get those parts refreshed as well.
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      Yesterday, 01:22 PM   #213
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Just adding to the discussion. Changed my healthy 2006 pump and stat after 91k as a preventive maintenance item. Not too bad, but I don't see how that one guy could have done it in two hours! Took me about 4.5 hours (spread out over the course of 3 days!) I took plenty of time to remove stuff in hopes of making the job easier. I think it takes 15 minutes alone to remove the belly pan. Add another 15 to install it. So you're already at 30 minutes. There are some great recommendations throughout this thread, so I will just comment on what worked for me.
  • Definitely remove the fan. This only takes 10 minutes. Plus you learn something new about your car. Need to first remove the tube leading to the airbox. I think T15 or T20 screws. Sway bar is worth the 5 minutes as well.
  • I allowed quite a bit of time for everything to drain. Keep squeezing the lower rad hose. Have plenty of old towels, rags, paper towels, a 2 gallon pail, speedy dry, etc. Whatever you have on hand won't be enough, so go get some more!
  • When re-installing, I installed and tightened the clamps on the u-shaped hose connecting the pump to the stat prior to installing into the car. Wiggle this assembly into place then install the second hose on the pump. Now you can install that hidden e-torx pump screw.
  • This is the time to re-orient all the clamps for easy access.
  • Oh, and one more thing. Disconnecting and moving the coolant reservoir provides access to one or two of the difficult stat hoses. This takes MAYBE 2 minutes to move. Just 2 M10 screws.

The job isn't too hard, just time consuming and trying of one's patience. Just stay calm and take your time and study all the DIY's in this thread. Thanks to everyone over the years who took the time to write up their experiences.

Rob
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