[locolobo]

Above are the new tools I've acquired to do the ABC deletes. I have 66k miles on my 2009 335d.

I have had no issues with the car except emission recalls on the DPF and SCR fixed under warranty. Red boost hose was a warranty repair so I'm not sure I need a Forge boost pipe, at least not yet.

Of course not all my tools are pictured. These are just the ones I didn't already have: Reamers, 5/16 x 1 1/2" bolts, exhaust gaskets, 22mm O2 sensor socket, and 3 new sizes of external torx sockets. Are these the only 3 external torx sizes?

Not pictured: Socket set, metric sizes, 14mm box wrench, vise grips, numerous u-joints and extensions, jack stands, bottle jack, angle iron (for engine support), angle grinder with skinny cutting wheel, torx security bit set, eye protection, MIG welder, 1/2" drill.

Other Parts: New vacuum hoses. Ordered a new catted down pipe. Should have it by Friday.

The procedure I plan to use (trying to get the sequence right here):

1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove engine covers and cowling
3. Remove ECU and ship to BPC
4. Loosen v-band clamp from above and disconnect DPF sensors except pressure differential sensor from above
5. Jack up the car and put it on 4 jack stands
6. Remove the RF wheel and the various covers under the car
7. Loosen or remove the exhaust covers, urea tank covers, and exhaust holding bolts. Drain out the urea tank and flush, leaving no water behind
8. Using a bottle jack, support/raise the engine 3/4" and remove the engine mount
9. Remove DPF. Remove 2 sensors at the DPF outlet for re-use
10. Remove SCR, open it up, clean, weld back shut and reinstall. I may sub out the welding even though I have a MIG welder - I don't have SS wire for it.
11. ream out the waste gate hole to 9/16" progressively after loosening the flapper and moving out of the way
12. Install sensors in the new pipe
13. Protect the unused sensor plugs with rubber caps or possibly leave the sensors connected and out of the way somewhere
13. Install the pipe and gaskets, connect sensors and put it all back together
14. Replace vacuum lines around the turbo.
15. Replace ECU, reconnect battery, and test operation

So do I have everything I need and the correct plan? I must be forgetting something.

Should I replace / repair anything else in there while I have all this apart? I don't need a new fuel filter at this time. Trans fluid was done last spring. Thanks for any input - I will appreciate it!

[shnaggs]

I think the new consensus is that you no longer need to port the waste gate hole.

[Mark M]

Sounds like a great plan.

One note, recently Bob at BPC proved you do not need to port the waste gate.

I've just got through doing a DPF delete (not by choice) and did not port the WG. Car runs strong without issue. However sometime this spring, I do need to gut the SCR.

[Persian Whisperjet]

So exciting. Re "3. Remove ECU and ship to BPC" you want to budget an hour or two to yank the two fuses (we're talking Jarek right?) one of which is really hard to see behind the glove box.

Personally, I waited for the ECU to come back so that I could start the car and make sure it was working OK.

Getting the engine mount unbolted was my biggest challenge. It just takes time and some finesse.

Make sure you disconnect the two unnecessary EGT sensors or their (ambient) readings will cause the computer to throw code every time you start the car.

[sukutash]

Originally Posted by locolobo

Above are the new tools I've acquired to do the ABC deletes. I have 66k miles on my 2009 335d.

I have had no issues with the car except emission recalls on the DPF and SCR fixed under warranty. Red boost hose was a warranty repair so I'm not sure I need a Forge boost pipe, at least not yet.

Of course not all my tools are pictured. These are just the ones I didn't already have: Reamers, 5/16 x 1 1/2" bolts, exhaust gaskets, 22mm O2 sensor socket, and 3 new sizes of external torx sockets. Are these the only 3 external torx sizes?

Not pictured: Socket set, metric sizes, 14mm box wrench, vise grips, numerous u-joints and extensions, jack stands, bottle jack, angle iron (for engine support), angle grinder with skinny cutting wheel, torx security bit set, eye protection, MIG welder, 1/2" drill.

Other Parts: New vacuum hoses. Ordered a new catted down pipe. Should have it by Friday.

The procedure I plan to use (trying to get the sequence right here):

1. Disconnect Battery
2. Remove engine covers and cowling
3. Remove ECU and ship to BPC
4. Loosen v-band clamp from above and disconnect DPF sensors except pressure differential sensor from above
5. Jack up the car and put it on 4 jack stands
6. Remove the RF wheel and the various covers under the car
7. Loosen or remove the exhaust covers, urea tank covers, and exhaust holding bolts. Drain out the urea tank and flush, leaving no water behind
8. Using a bottle jack, support/raise the engine 3/4" and remove the engine mount
9. Remove DPF. Remove 2 sensors at the DPF outlet for re-use
10. Remove SCR, open it up, clean, weld back shut and reinstall. I may sub out the welding even though I have a MIG welder - I don't have SS wire for it.
11. ream out the waste gate hole to 9/16" progressively after loosening the flapper and moving out of the way
12. Install sensors in the new pipe
13. Protect the unused sensor plugs with rubber caps or possibly leave the sensors connected and out of the way somewhere
13. Install the pipe and gaskets, connect sensors and put it all back together
14. Replace vacuum lines around the turbo.
15. Replace ECU, reconnect battery, and test operation

So do I have everything I need and the correct plan? I must be forgetting something.

Should I replace / repair anything else in there while I have all this apart? I don't need a new fuel filter at this time. Trans fluid was done last spring. Thanks for any input - I will appreciate it!

You forgot a beer, or 2, or 3, after every 3rd to 4th step!

[BB_cuda]

I hadn't thoroughly scoured your list. I did the porting of WG (July 2015) but this was before recent discussion with BPC. I used antiseaze on several of the bolts to help for next time (the bolts that hold the motor mount bracket to the engine) removal. I had used it to reinstall bracket first time (DPF switched to DP in June 2014) and those bolts came out easily the 2nd time for porting.

not sure if you know but when you open up the flap to get to WG port, the flap is still in your way unless you grind some relief (in exhaust housing) for flap to lay down more. Go look at iaknown's thread. Don't be a dumb a$$ like I was with a weak 1/2" drill bit. Stick with the reamers if you do decide to port it.I lucked out and was able to remove the broken off bit in the port. I recommend using cutting oil (NOT motor oil) on the reamers. I vacuumed up the grindings but stuff was still left on forward side of turbine wheel. I'm guessing that all got blown out.

When reconnecting the flap to the actuator threaded rod, it sort of hard to get it back exactly like it was. Perhaps take a picture before touching it showing how many threads are sticking out past the nuts. There are 2 nuts locked together here. I chose to have some flap to port face preload. It is subjective as to how much force is needed. I think I went one full nut turn past initial resistance but don't take this as gospel. It could have been 2 turns... I forget :-)

If I were in your shoes, I would rethink if you need to port. Not telling you to do/don't do it. You have to own your decision. You will be signing up for almost a total redo labor wise if you don't port now and decide later that you need it due to too high of boost pressure. That damn mount alone is enough reason alone to not duplicate the job.

One more pointer. I took TDI's suggestion on taping the mount bracket screws into the external torque socket. Don't go crazy with tape though. I almost got the socket stuck up in there after I got the threads started into the block.

Another pointer, its real hard to get those bracket screws started. I found that have a gap between the bracket and the block so as to see the screws come through the hole in bracket and get the screw to bite into the block threading. I learned this during second time reinstall. Its very straight forward if you do this. Hope I'm making sense.

[32valves]

this all very good info cause that's my next move also.?

[335D Alpha Pappa]

Originally Posted by Bob@BPC

With our tune, you do not need to remove any of the fuses or port the wastegate. We've made over 400+HP with no mods to the exhaust housing with safe boost levels & EGTs

So what would happen if the WG was ported and then got your tune?

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by Bob@BPC

With our tune, you do not need to remove any of the fuses or port the wastegate. We've made over 400+HP with no mods to the exhaust housing with safe boost levels & EGTs

I concur, no porting done on my WG either with the BPC tune. It runs as intended.

[locolobo]

Ahh, thanks for the replies! This is good news, and helpful advice, especially about not porting the wastegate. I too was worried about getting the servo adjustment threads right after disconnecting it and moving out of the way and then reconnecting it. But I certainly don't want to take this apart again anytime soon either when the conventional wisdom changes...

When I had a VW Jetta and had it upgraded, there was no wastegate. Instead we installed a boost relief valve (I forget exactly what it was called) in one of the hoses to limit the boost.

Sounds like the advice from the tuner is pretty authoritative on not doing it. But I will wait for a few more people to weigh in.

[locolobo]

BB_Cuda you say "...suggestion on taping the mount bracket screws into the external torque socket. "

I am not too sure what you mean. What's an external torque socket?

and "I found that have a gap between the bracket and the block so as to see the screws come through the hole in bracket and get the screw to bite into the block threading.."

I think you mean I should keep the screw ends visible through the mount so I can line them up with the block before lowering it all the way?

[BB_cuda]

Loco,
In reverse order. Yes you follow how to get screws started into block threading.

The heads on those screws are external torx type sockets. You show some in your picture. Some call these e-torx. Loosely tape the screw into the socket. Huge pain in butt to line up if screw is up inside bracket. Credit to TDI on this idea.

[locolobo]

Bob@BPC,

looks like the porting actually made things worse above 3k RPMs, so I don't want to try this.

[Sweattdogg]

When do you plan on doing this? I live over in Worthington and would be happy to lend a hand to get some knowledge. Your plan mirrors what I would like to do to my car at some point soon. I've also got a 2009 with about 80k on the clock.

Also, where did you have the trans serviced at and at what cost? I'd probably want to do that first.


Aaron

[locolobo]

Sweattdogg I am doing it in my garage on jackstands. I'm pretty confident in my abilities especially if I have an assistant.

I did the transmission fluid two times myself, again on jackstands. I know there are many who use the ZF or Shell Fluids at great expense, but I used Redline D6 from Jegs and Lubegard Platinum additive, which "eliminates the use for OEM fluids" according to their literature. 2 Gallons cost about $100.

My car shifts a lot better than when I first got the car with the new fluid, although there is still room for improvement. I did not replace the pan or integrated filter. It takes less than 2 hours if you skip the pan.

[iaknown]

Not sure what the big deal is about removing 2 fuses lol, guess some guys had trouble finding them?

Originally Posted by locolobo

Bob@BPC,

looks like the porting actually made things worse above 3k RPMs, so I don't want to try this.

And, I am not going to argue with Bob's results as they are very clear on that particular car from the dyno graph but.....my car did not exhibit the same results. I have logs to prove the difference on my car and will post them when I can. I am confident a small adjustment on the turbine valve will resolve any opening of the wastegate/loss of boost around 3k.

To further back this up, I also confirmed that the car used for JR Auto's stage 2 dyno pulls has a ported wastegate. If you look at their graphs on the JR Auto thread there is no power loss whatsoever around 3k. My thought is this issue may be specific to the behavior of the individual car and possibly the tuner as well. I know my car's boost certainly behaved differently than others.

All that being said....if it ain't broke don't fix it! Many are running an unported wastegate, that includes many BPC and JR Auto customers, so by all means skip this mod if your tuner feels it isn't necessary!

[HeatherM35d]

Originally Posted by locolobo

BB_Cuda you say "...suggestion on taping the mount bracket screws into the external torque socket. "

I am not too sure what you mean. What's an external torque socket?

and "I found that have a gap between the bracket and the block so as to see the screws come through the hole in bracket and get the screw to bite into the block threading.."

I think you mean I should keep the screw ends visible through the mount so I can line them up with the block before lowering it all the way?

Just stuff 1 layer of paper towel (tiny square) across the face of the socket and then insert head of external torx bolt into socket.. Now watch it defy gravity..

[locolobo]

iaknown - food for thought. Well I have the tools to port it. I am tempted to go ahead and do it, so long as there's no decrease in performance. I don't plan on having mine dyno tested. Looks like I need to look at the graphs in some earlier posts

[CvilleBill]

I don't know sh*t, but I would listen to Bob! He did my car and it is awesome.

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by locolobo

iaknown - food for thought. Well I have the tools to port it. I am tempted to go ahead and do it, so long as there's no decrease in performance. I don't plan on having mine dyno tested. Looks like I need to look at the graphs in some earlier posts

At this stage if I were you, try it without porting, what do you have to lose? I originally did mine to keep the boost in check according to the limits I had in place at the time. But it seems that the stock turbos are able to take a lot more abuse than many of us originally thought.

My point was just that not all cars exhibit the same exact results as this one BPC had posted....

Originally Posted by Bob@BPC

I have had more than one car that has shown the same results with the ported wastegate. He was not running our tune, had a RennTech... I can tell you its pointless to port the gate out, there is no performance or any benefits on doing it. We've had many 335d's pass over our rollers and have our tune with no issues of "overboost" faults, none with extreme EGT's and some even making great power with the EGR/DPF or Catted downpipe in place. I can tell you this, if you open that gate up, it messes with the N75 maps in the DDE and the % needs to be adjusted for the offset of extra airflow.

Once again, not going to argue.....and I truly do believe you and respect your opinion. Many appreciate your insight on here But what you have posted and what other tuner's dyno graphs show are 2 different things. A loss of boost or a problem in maps should be pretty clear in the powerband, am I right? Just like the car you had posted. Could it possibly be the way the turbine valve is programmed by the tuner to switch that would affect how hard the drive pressure hits(and possibly opens up the wastegate)? There's a question I'm sure you can answer.

If you haven't found any performance benefits I believe it, this was not a mod any tuner came up with, it was my doing on my car for the boost issue I had, over a year ago. We knew much less about these cars then we do now so I'm totally fine with finding out it's pointless

[iaknown]

Originally Posted by Bob@BPC

There are a few different methods to adjusting the amount of boost requested by the driver and one of them is using the waste gate duty cycle or some call them the N75 maps, adjusting these values is not the proper way of adding boost into the engine, the only time you want to mess with these maps is if there are changes to the size of the exhaust housing, adjustments were made to the gate rod, or changes made to the port size. On a stock turbo setup, this can cause issues with boost limiters(Limp mode) or can really overboost the engine, throw a DTC/check control light or even causing damage to the engine. Not to say this is how your car was tuned, they could have just missed a limiter(tons of them in the stock code) or did not remove the over boost DTC and all the correct boost maps were adjusted.

Interesting info. But maybe my question wasn't clear. Forget about my car's past boost issue and even the wastegate porting discussion for a moment....what I'm asking is could the way the turbine valve switch is adjusted in the maps affect the wastegate opening up during the switch? (what you figured you were seeing in the car you had posted).

If the answer is yes, and I don't see how it couldn't be (I could be very wrong), perhaps that is the reason some cars with different tuning seem to react a little differently to a ported wastegate. That making any sense? I'm not justifying the porting at this point, just trying to see why some cars don't appear like the one you posted.....

[locolobo]

I got it out! Whew! What a pain I had the car on jack stands only about 14 inches off the floor and now I wish it were a few inches higher because once the DPF starts coming out, it hits the garage floor.

The hardest part was the engine mount screws that go into the block. And I discovered as others have said, you cannot skip removing the cable stay that bolts into the engine block. Wow, that is a very long bolt.

Everything I heed appears intact, a bit of scuffing to the cables aluminum shielding. I hope the sensor shielding isn't damaged. Is there a way to test?

Now there is a 2" long crack in the round base of the engine mount, the plastic part where the vacuum line goes in. I'm not sure how that happened or if it was already broken. What does this do? I was going to superglue it closed, but maybe I should replace the mount.

And now to drop the entire exhaust - any tips?

Can I reinstall the engine mount before the new DP gets here, or should I wait?

Thanks to everyone for the awesome tips that helped me get this done