[speedimage69]

has anyone tried this? Claimed to be one of the brightest and its 40w and outer ring is even brighter than inner...... the unit looks very heavy duty, but at the end of the day, AE bulb is base on quality of it and brightness.

http://www.e92-lighting.com/products...W-1221-20.html

I haven't seen photo with them on, anyone would like to comment!

[E92White]

*Bump*

Would like to know this as well.

[Diode]

*bump*

[GetSomeE92]

I don't have any experience with those, but I got a similar set for my car and they look great and were only about $80. They look good during the day, and fantastic at night. Here is a link to the ones I got: 20W CREE Angel Eye H8 Bulbs

They say 20W, but that is per bulb for a 40W total. Not sure if the lights from your link are the same in that regard.

Just a tip: The design of the angel eye rings themselves make it so that the outer ring will always be dimmer than the inner. However, depending on the angle of the photo taken, it can be made to look better/worse. Without seeing the set you have linked in person, I'd be skeptical of that claim.

[LuxAngelEyes]

There is no such thing as a 40W or 20W angel eye bulb. They are mearly adding the total possible amount of power that the LED's can handle which has no relationship to the amoutn of power being uses in reality.

Also the 20W and 40W units use the exact same LED's so how does that even make sense...

[Accelerometer]

Originally Posted by LuxAngelEyes

There is no such thing as a 40W or 20W angel eye bulb. They are mearly adding the total possible amount of power that the LED's can handle which has no relationship to the amoutn of power being uses in reality.

Also the 20W and 40W units use the exact same LED's so how does that even make sense...

Can you disclose the type of LEDs used in Lux products? Specifically the V3 product? Thanks

[LuxAngelEyes]

Originally Posted by Accelerometer

Can you disclose the type of LEDs used in Lux products? Specifically the V3 product? Thanks

Sure you can look at the product and see them. Previously we were using the Cree XP-G but have moved now to the Cree XT-E which is the most efficent LED in this package size.

[StylinE92]

Originally Posted by LuxAngelEyes

Sure you can look at the product and see them. Previously we were using the Cree XP-G but have moved now to the Cree XT-E which is the most efficent LED in this package size.

So based on what you are saying and the info on the Cree XT-E the Lux Angle Eyes can only be run at a maximum of 20 watts (5 watts per LED Max per Cree's datasheet on the XT-E).

I see why you are so quick to say there is no such thing as this or that with your's being maxed out at 20 watts and this is based on the info you provided and Cree's data sheet on that model LED.

Cree Datasheet on the XT-E LED: http://www.cree.com/led-components-a...lamp-xte-white

Now I don't buy E92 lightings 40 watt claim either though, those Angel Eyes have no finned heatsink or fan, and 40 watts would produce a massive amount of heat and there is no way that without a large finned heatsink they could maintain a cool enough temp to not fry the LEDs.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

I'm not here to debate the 20 Watt or 40 Watt descriptions made by some of the manufacturers. The way I see it, it's for marketing purposes of course, but it also allows the end user to know that if they purchased a "10 Watt" in the past, that the New "20 Watt" would be brighter. (Generally speaking, from the same manufacturer).

It would be unfair to say it's impossible to get higher wattage out of the same LED, You are in the business of LED's, Marc, you should know this more then anyone else here.

LED's run in a ripple or pulsed voltage. The higher the voltage the more output. If you are here to say that if you hook up your basic wattage meter to these LED's expecting to see a constant 20 Watt draw, you would correct in saying you may not find that. However, that is really here nor their as LED's don't function by wattage alone. Voltage and the Frequency used will determine their output.

By varying frequency and voltage appropriately, manufacturers are able to achieve different outputs (brightness) out of LED's while keeping temperatures low.

For those that still don't understand what I mean in terms of frequency; many car shows like Top Gear, Fifth Gear, and other TV shows that use HD Cameras, High Resolution, and slow motion shots typically find High End Cars with LED's.

QUE to 1:10 of the video....

Just ther other day I was watching this you tube video and noticed the DRL were blinking, but they really were not blinking, it was just a slow motion shot in a high frame rate.

I'm sure many people have watched a segment of the film with a car having LED DRL or LED Tailights and noticed they appeared to be blinking while the segment was in slow motion. By no accident, LED's are not on all the time, atleast not high output ones. They literally pulse, at sometimes 60HZ or more. (60HZ = 60 times a second). This pulse is WAY faster then the naked eye can see, so to us as humans, it appears on all the time.

To clear things up, the 20 watt and 40 watt marketing may seem a little irrelevant to people that understand LED's but it helps the consumer figure out which product, generally from the same manufacturer, will be brighter.

I hope this clears up any confusion.

[qwertywar]

Bump

[dwells]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

It would be unfair to say it's impossible to get higher wattage out of the same LED, You are in the business of LED's, Marc, you should know this more then anyone else here.

LED's run in a ripple or pulsed voltage. The higher the voltage the more output. If you are here to say that if you hook up your basic wattage meter to these LED's expecting to see a constant 20 Watt draw, you would correct in saying you may not find that. However, that is really here nor their as LED's don't function by wattage alone. Voltage and the Frequency used will determine their output.

By varying frequency and voltage appropriately, manufacturers are able to achieve different outputs (brightness) out of LED's while keeping temperatures low.

You're on the right track here, but you're not entirely correct. Which is to be expected, really - outside of electrical engineers and serious hobbyists, this type of thing is hardly common knowledge.

LEDs come specified from the manufacturer with a handful of specifications. There are three important ones to this conversation: light output, voltage, wattage. Light output is an actual measurement of how much light the diode can emit, and is rated in units of either lumens or mcd (millicandelas). The bigger the number, the brighter the LED. Voltage is simply the voltage the LED needs to be driven at to function properly and meet its light output rating. This is generally about 3.2v for high-output white LEDs (CREE brand and the like). Watts are used to measure overall power consumption. Wattage is simply voltage multiplied by amperage, which is the current that the diode draws. So if an LED is 1W at 3.2v, that means about .3 amps, or 300 mA (milliamps).

So, for those of you still following, the really meaningful figure is the lumen or mca rating. This is due to the fact that not all LEDs are created equally, that is to say they aren't all equally efficient. One LED may be brighter at the same wattage as another, while simultaneously emitting less heat. That being said, while LEDs are constantly becoming more efficient, modern high-output emitters tend to be fairly close in efficiency. So chances are that a somewhat less efficient 2W CREE LED is still putting out more light than a newer 1W CREE LED, just not necessarily double.

Regarding voltage and brightness as mentioned above, it is true that running LEDs at a lower voltage will reduce their output. It also has the nasty effect of affecting the color temperature dramatically, so it is very rare to see LEDs dimmed via this method. LEDs will most likely be driven at their manufacturer rated voltage, generally by a mix of the driver, inline resistors, and being wired in series. It's technically possible to drive an LED higher than its rated voltage and get a bit more brightness out of it, but the result will be heat and a quickly dead LED.

As for the mentioning of frequency and pulsing, this is how LEDs tend to be dimmed. A technique called pulse width modulation (PWM) pulses power to the LED. Higher frequency is closer to a "constant stream" or power, so closer to fuller brightness. Lower frequency means lower brightness. Done properly, PWM is invisible to the human eye. However, this pulsing tends not to play nicely with cameras that have rolling shutters (a whole other lecture), and that flicker becomes perceivable.

So there you go, for those of you who read through this, you now have a much better understanding of LEDs and how they work!

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by dwells

You're on the right track here, but you're not entirely correct. Which is to be expected, really - outside of electrical engineers and serious hobbyists, this type of thing is hardly common knowledge.

LEDs come specified from the manufacturer with a handful of specifications. There are three important ones to this conversation: light output, voltage, wattage. Light output is an actual measurement of how much light the diode can emit, and is rated in units of either lumens or mcd (millicandelas). The bigger the number, the brighter the LED. Voltage is simply the voltage the LED needs to be driven at to function properly and meet its light output rating. This is generally about 3.2v for high-output white LEDs (CREE brand and the like). Watts are used to measure overall power consumption. Wattage is simply voltage multiplied by amperage, which is the current that the diode draws. So if an LED is 1W at 3.2v, that means about .3 amps, or 300 mA (milliamps).

So, for those of you still following, the really meaningful figure is the lumen or mca rating. This is due to the fact that not all LEDs are created equally, that is to say they aren't all equally efficient. One LED may be brighter at the same wattage as another, while simultaneously emitting less heat. That being said, while LEDs are constantly becoming more efficient, modern high-output emitters tend to be fairly close in efficiency. So chances are that a somewhat less efficient 2W CREE LED is still putting out more light than a newer 1W CREE LED, just not necessarily double.

Regarding voltage and brightness as mentioned above, it is true that running LEDs at a lower voltage will reduce their output. It also has the nasty effect of affecting the color temperature dramatically, so it is very rare to see LEDs dimmed via this method. LEDs will most likely be driven at their manufacturer rated voltage, generally by a mix of the driver, inline resistors, and being wired in series. It's technically possible to drive an LED higher than its rated voltage and get a bit more brightness out of it, but the result will be heat and a quickly dead LED.

As for the mentioning of frequency and pulsing, this is how LEDs tend to be dimmed. A technique called pulse width modulation (PWM) pulses power to the LED. Higher frequency is closer to a "constant stream" or power, so closer to fuller brightness. Lower frequency means lower brightness. Done properly, PWM is invisible to the human eye. However, this pulsing tends not to play nicely with cameras that have rolling shutters (a whole other lecture), and that flicker becomes perceivable.

So there you go, for those of you who read through this, you now have a much better understanding of LEDs and how they work!

I was trying to explain the whole bit getting a little less technical, but I'm glad someone else did.

[franzzz]

has anyone tried this others new led on the market ?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/H8-40W-LED-An...item2a2c5ba77f

New XL-M cree chip

[LuxAngelEyes]

Originally Posted by franzzz

has anyone tried this others new led on the market ?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/H8-40W-LED-An...item2a2c5ba77f

New XL-M cree chip

the XM-L is not new at all, its been out for a long time now.

if you click on the pictures on the e-bay posting it shows a completely different product....

As well, it doesnt matter if they are using a more powerful LED because Heat is still the ultimate factor. You simply cant put that much power to the LED's because there is no where for the heat to go. the XM-L LED's can handle 3 amp each, bit if you did that to all 4 the aluminum fixture would get so hot the lights would die in about 5 minutes.

Sounds like a cheep ploy at a marketing gimmick...

[franzzz]

Originally Posted by LuxAngelEyes

the XM-L is not new at all, its been out for a long time now.

if you click on the pictures on the e-bay posting it shows a completely different product....

As well, it doesnt matter if they are using a more powerful LED because Heat is still the ultimate factor. You simply cant put that much power to the LED's because there is no where for the heat to go. the XM-L LED's can handle 3 amp each, bit if you did that to all 4 the aluminum fixture would get so hot the lights would die in about 5 minutes.

Sounds like a cheep ploy at a marketing gimmick...

True
today there is' the race about the watt.......

Because the lux is not present in europe with a competitive price the business about H8 led is more strong....

[E92-Lighting]

Originally Posted by franzzz

has anyone tried this others new led on the market ?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/H8-40W-LED-An...item2a2c5ba77f

New XL-M cree chip

we have something new coming out in at the end of May, stay tuned, heatsink will be a different design with fins.

[franzzz]

Originally Posted by E92-Lighting

we have something new coming out in at the end of May, stay tuned, heatsink will be a different design with fins.

Ok tnx