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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY: Mudflap Installation
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04-30-2008, 08:56 PM | #45 |
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My selection was to have the invisible bra film applied behind the rear wheels. An image was modified so the installer would know exactly where I wanted the film placed.
Naturally the rocket scientist put the film in a different location and the installation needed to be re-done. But, after 120K miles, the film did the trick and the finish is fine. |
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06-27-2008, 04:17 AM | #46 |
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Drives: E93 335i Vert
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Hi from Australia.
I would like to persue the possibilities of mudflaps on my E93 335Ci as I would rather keep the paint work free from the grit blasting process that all unflapped cars eventually succumb to and don't prticulalry like clear stick-ons either. Can't seem to find a place in OZ to get hold of any. Are you able to supply a link to a sales location in the states (or elsewhere)? |
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07-12-2008, 01:25 AM | #47 |
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Great DIY. Thinking about installing mud flaps just for the winder has when the roads are salted I don't want it to all kick up.
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12-18-2008, 07:20 PM | #48 |
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replacement rivets?
I installed front mudflaps yesterday.
The driver side mudflap installed well, however, I broke both the push pins of the rivets for the passenger side. I missed the alignment (for the rivets) on the passenger side by a few mm, and hence, they had a hard time going in - eventually giving up and breaking. Any idea regarding replacement part numbers? I'm thinking of installing screws (self tapping?) instead of the stubborn rivets. Has anybody tried this? I think a 5mm or 11-32 screw might fit. EDIT: Got the part number, if anybody's interested: 51161881149 and cost around $0.19 to $0.39 each depending on vendor. Last edited by aah78; 12-19-2008 at 05:54 PM.. |
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03-07-2009, 11:41 PM | #49 |
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Great write-up and pics. I just installed them on my car. I would prefer not to have installed them but I am getting sick of all of the salt and rocks getting kicked up on the car.
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03-13-2009, 12:07 PM | #50 |
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E90/E91 Mudflaps
I've just finished fitting a set to my 2005 Touring (E91). A few points which might help others:-
Only initially remove an inch or so of the adhesive strip backing (2 runs per flap) leaving the backing sticking out until you have finished all the bolting up. You can then pull each run of backing out and press the flaps hard upto the body. This allows for much easier positioning. There is no need to separate the two section of each rear mudflap. Just fit them as they come. If you buy from a BMW service main dealer, ask them to print out the relevant instructions from their Aftersales Assistance Portal (ASAP). They are supposed to ask if you want them anyway. |
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08-31-2009, 03:48 PM | #51 |
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Great pictures and write up. Thanks.
I just ordered a set for my 335i xDrive. Lessons learned from the past, I will not go through another winter here in Denver without the protection of mud flaps. Here is the official pdf installation instructions. |
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12-07-2009, 02:02 AM | #52 |
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Aagh! Driver's rear was a nightmare!
WHAT A NIGHTMARE OF AN INSTALL!!!
2007 BMW 335i Sedan w Sports Package (but not 'M Sports package', and not with 'M aerodynamic kit'). Ordered Mud Flaps 82160395944 (front), and 82160395945 (rear). Thanks goes out to this OP for his guide and the PDF file posted by 'jimk' in Post#50, as this install certainly needed instructions! I did the fronts first and both were done with relative ease, though not entirely problem free. At the front, the only issues I had were: - 1) on the driver's side (first one I did), getting the center pins on the replacement fasteners to go 'in'. It was quite a challenge. - 2) getting the large replacement plastic fastener('D' on Page4 of the PDF) up into the vertical hole underneath the car. The thing wouldn't go up into the hole properly! Like pretty much everyone else, I just re-fastened with the original torx-headed screw. Concerning #1- at first I pushed with my thumb, that hurt and wasn't getting me anywhere so I then tried pushing them in with the end of a hammer. That didn't work, so then I used the head of a rubber hammer, as pictured in the PDF. That just bent the pins. Then I tried using a socket-set extension bar as a 'punch' (hammered), and finally some progress! However it took some fairly hard whacks to get them in. The last one was 1/2 way in and then the end I was hammering flattened out and would now of course go no further in. I had to use a dremel to cut off the protruding part. Over to the front passenger side - the pins went in easily, like night and day to the other side. Done the whole thing in <10 minutes including jacking it up and swapping over to a winter wheel. Ditto for the passenger side rear. Straightforward and easy. But then came the dreaded driver's side rear.. The first thing I did after unscrewing the screws indicated in the PDF and cleaning the bodywork was to do a 'test fit' of the mud flap. I instantly realized that a protruding molded black plastic piece located towards the exhaust (overlaps with the heat-shield, I think it was) protruded slightly into the area where the flap's furthest fastener eyelet needed to be if it was going to be positioned properly. I tried forcing it into place but that popped the body of the mudflap off the bodywork. I came back inside and checked the photo in Post#2 - and aha!..it's not exactly like mine! I figured that if I could get the bracket installed or at least into it's proper position, it might give me a clue as to what I was doing wrong. Using the photo as a guide (as perspective is difficult to ascertain in the PDF) I pulled the fuzzy liner stuff back and positioned the bracket with the 'stepped' part where the 2 holes in the mudflap should be, and looked for the screw at the top that I was meant to be attaching it to (Page#6, Box#3 in the PDF). Found it, but could NOT get my hands to it. The PDF image suggest the entire 'floor' should be removed so you have full access to the area from below. And that's not something you're going to do if the car isn't up on a hoist. I ended up removing the large nut that is higher up the fuzzy liner inside the wheel well (directly opposite me) so I could pull more of the liner out of the way in order to get better access, then the screw that attached the annoying black plastic thingie to the heatshield, and 2 or three others underneath the rear part of the wheel arch. Better, but I STILL could not reach that damn screw easily! I finally contorted one hand up inside the largest free space available and could just barely touch it with the tip of my index finger. No nut!! (as there should be according to the BMW PDF!). So, slipping the end of the bracket onto it, it was flopping all over the place - no good at all! A trip back inside to check the internet suggested that I might need "BMW Part BODY NUT 072000-07129901656" (not supplied, and which I did not have), so I went through a jar of miscellaneous nuts I have and spent the next 20 or 30 minutes agonizingly contorting my hand trying to get a nut to fit onto the screw thread. I only went through about 5 or 6 different nuts, but as I only had finger-tip control of them, I kept dropping them and they'd land somewhere inside the black plastic thingie that was now *really* pissing me off! Went back inside and found my extendable magnet, and that made nut retrieval far easier and less damaging to the hands - and I also used it to magnetize the nuts and to then poke them into position through the narrow gap that I could not get my hand through. But even then it still took a lot of effort getting the nut (and the washer that is needed, which also was not supplied) up onto the screw with the bracket between them. Anway, with the top of the bracket finally in place (not fully tightened yet though) and the unknown black plastic thingie still partially loosened, I was finally able to test-fit the mudflap. Now the holes in the mudflap more or less aligned with the holes in the bracket, but the next problem identified was that the bracket was swiveled around a bit due interference from a protruding piece of plastic about 1/2way between the bend and the top screw with the nut on it. Why they would design a bracket with bends in it at the wrong place, I don't know. It's close, but not ideal. Anyway I forced the supplied washered-bolts through the flap and into its threaded holes, ripped back the red tape, pressed on the mudflap firmly and drove the screws in not giving a damn any more! Even that was a pain-in-the-you-know-what. - the supplied screws have heads that are too small - they need a washer under them or else just as you think everything's nice & secure, the fuzzy liner will pull away. - same as above - a secured screw tore through one of the plastic holes in the lower part of the mud flap! Fortunately, I found some a couple of random black plastic washers on my nuts & bolts shelf and used them - With the mudflap in place, the liner does not sit completely flush against it and had to be forced 'flat' so the final bolt (not screw, WTF.. maybe it's *not meant to go through the liner, after all) could be driven through it in the right place, which itself is an extremely difficult task when the mudflap and the mounting hole behind it aren't in perfect alignment. I should probably have cut a slit in the liner to ease its wanting to 'bunch', but I was so frustrated by this point, after driving a 'blind' hole through it and finding I'd missed the mark ever-so-slightly, I just said "screw it"(that is, to hell with the task), pulled the liner back up and out of the way, and drove the bolt through the mudflap only (into the mount). Put the liner back into position, secured all other screws, thought to myself "It's not perfect but it's going to have to do", sat back and then swore a final couple of times at the immense stupidity of this install. If they supplied parts and fasteners that actually fit, this would have been far more simple. As it was, it took me about 4 hours in all. Mud flaps look ok though! Last edited by Boxster; 12-07-2009 at 02:46 AM.. |
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05-06-2010, 09:52 PM | #53 |
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I bought the rear mud flaps from Tischer and the package didn't include the bracket. Where is the bracket supposed to be? In the little bag with the screws and bolts?
Tischer's customer service is awesome! They're going to send me a new package of rear mud flaps and provide a pre-paid label for returning the old package with the missing bracket. I think BMW screwed up and didn't include the bracket by mistake because the package doesn't have any signs of being opened before me. Last edited by nky; 05-07-2010 at 12:24 PM.. |
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05-07-2010, 03:01 PM | #54 | |
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Drives: 2016 BMW 340i
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01-17-2011, 11:45 AM | #56 |
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Essential piece of information for mudflap installation
This is a fantastic piece of information! V.helpful! having done it now once i could do it in a fraction of the time but without this tutorial your just wasting time! Well done! and thanks!
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03-01-2011, 01:07 PM | #57 |
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These instructions don't seem to work for the coupe...
How are the front mudflaps installed on the coupe - there are no grommets in the fender as there are on the e90.
-Tom |
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08-08-2011, 08:29 AM | #59 |
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08-11-2011, 03:19 AM | #60 | |
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Where do i get these from? and would it help to prevent massive amounts of brake dust from accumulating on my rear bumper?
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10-09-2011, 02:50 PM | #61 |
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I've attached the BMW instructions for those of us with the LCI E92 coupe as the installation is a bit different - there is drilling required....
Last edited by arcticpiper; 10-14-2011 at 12:53 PM.. |
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09-15-2015, 01:37 PM | #63 | |
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Gonna resurrect this to ask .. If I got flaps would these be an issue with minimum drop on some kw v1's? That's .75 inches so you don't have to look it up. I want a slight drop but primarily handling, and I'm confused if these things are gonna be an issue if I install them then later on coils.
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07-31-2017, 09:11 PM | #64 |
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Sweet DIY, makes life easier with the blown up pictures.
If you guys are looking for mudflaps I grabbed these on eBay and they're pretty dope. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...S~%26vxp%3Dmtr |
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