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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Swapping CHRA's, found why my turbo died..



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      02-16-2016, 10:40 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSL View Post
On jack stands yes, but the subframe was in place. You didn't say if the top coolant line doesn't want to come out of the block or the turbo, but it can stay in the block and remove the turbos, the rear one almost has to stay in the block.

Once you break the o-ring by spinning it, you can fit a small screwdriver under the connector to add some upward pressure while you're rocking it out. Don't pry up under the bolt tab though. The lines are pretty sturdy, but you definitely don't want to bend or break the tabs unless you're planning on replacing them.
Yeah that rear one seemed impossible to get out but with very little pressure it actually came right out of the block, I assume I could just leave it attached to the turbo for now right, as it doesn't seem to wanna budge..??
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      02-16-2016, 11:06 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Yeah that rear one seemed impossible to get out but with very little pressure it actually came right out of the block, I assume I could just leave it attached to the turbo for now right, as it doesn't seem to wanna budge..??
The turbo can out with it and if you can manage to reach that coolant line at the block to bolt it back in, it doesn't matter if it goes in before or after. I'm surprised it came out easy. Did you have a coolant leak there maybe? Check the o-ring. If that's the bad turbo and it didn't have good coolant flow, might partially explain why it looks like it does.
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      02-16-2016, 11:16 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSL View Post
The turbo can out with it and if you can manage to reach that coolant line at the block to bolt it back in, it doesn't matter if it goes in before or after. I'm surprised it came out easy. Did you have a coolant leak there maybe? Check the o-ring. If that's the bad turbo and it didn't have good coolant flow, might partially explain why it looks like it does.
No coolant leaks anywhere, just oil dripping from the CHRA.. I never lost coolant either and never overheated the engine..

I bought all new gaskets and o-rings but the old ones so far all seem fine, not dry, ripped, etc..
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      02-16-2016, 02:51 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
No coolant leaks anywhere, just oil dripping from the CHRA.. I never lost coolant either and never overheated the engine..

I bought all new gaskets and o-rings but the old ones so far all seem fine, not dry, ripped, etc..
Make sure there's no blockage in the line or the feed/return ports in the block.
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      02-16-2016, 03:20 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSL View Post
Make sure there's no blockage in the line or the feed/return ports in the block.
This is similar to what I used to clean out the clogged one.. My bristles are a bit longer, and they're fine, not very rough..

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      02-16-2016, 03:59 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
This is similar to what I used to clean out the clogged one.. My bristles are a bit longer, and they're fine, not very rough..

Damn!! glad you opened it up
what do you think the reason would be for rear turbo getting shot before front's ... my rear's was smoking till I ran engine flush and changed next 5 oil changes at close intervals .. now I dont go over 4k OCI, but I use walmart castrol 0w-40 LL-01
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      02-16-2016, 04:02 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
Damn!! glad you opened it up
what do you think the reason would be for rear turbo getting shot before front's ... my rear's was smoking till I ran engine flush and changed next 5 oil changes at close intervals .. now I dont go over 4k OCI, but I use walmart castrol 0w-40 LL-01
Lol that Walmart Oil though..!! I use their Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 and get my MANN filter from Advanced Auto Parts...

But idk man, I think it was PCV related somehow but I can't prove it, I only know that my PCV valve was clogged up before I replaced it with an RB one so I feel like that somehow played a role in this catastrophe!

Did you use Lubro-Moly Engine Flush..??
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      02-16-2016, 09:55 PM   #52
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Quote:
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Lol that Walmart Oil though..!! I use their Mobil 1 Euro 0w-40 and get my MANN filter from Advanced Auto Parts...

But idk man, I think it was PCV related somehow but I can't prove it, I only know that my PCV valve was clogged up before I replaced it with an RB one so I feel like that somehow played a role in this catastrophe!

Did you use Lubro-Moly Engine Flush..??
no I used amsoil engine and transmission flush, saw it on the dealer shelf
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      02-16-2016, 11:47 PM   #53
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Shizzle! Thanks for sharing!!
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      02-17-2016, 12:14 AM   #54
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Closely following your threads BeastMode- a treasure trough of info! I'm soon to tackle removing the RB turbos as part of my investigation as to why my car is smoking on deceleration- bluish-white stinky (pungent burning oil) smoke. This is happening particularly from the right exhaust (Vanguard), and leaking turbo seals highly the culprit. It's being going on for a long time so buckling up for a shock similar to yours.

Last edited by musa; 02-17-2016 at 12:21 AM..
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      02-17-2016, 07:22 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007_e350 View Post
no I used amsoil engine and transmission flush, saw it on the dealer shelf
Oh sweet, I have to go there today anyways for some gaskets and stuff, I'll keep an eye out, thanks!

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Originally Posted by _ink View Post
Shizzle! Thanks for sharing!!
You're welcome..!

Quote:
Originally Posted by musa View Post
Closely following your threads BeastMode- a treasure trough of info! I'm soon to tackle removing the RB turbos as part of my investigation as to why my car is smoking on deceleration- bluish-white stinky (pungent burning oil) smoke. This is happening particularly from the right exhaust (Vanguard), and leaking turbo seals highly the culprit. It's being going on for a long time so buckling up for a shock similar to yours.
Yeah bro I've been tackling this since around August last year, if I didn't work 2 jobs and goto school at night this would have been time much timelier but it is what it is just glad I found out the root of my issue so I can get this fixed within the next week or two and get my baby back..!!

And yes, those damn turbo seals..! My issue would have not arisen had the previous owner maintained the vehicle, but can't fix the past so just gotta focus on fixing it now and getting it back on the road asap..!
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      02-21-2016, 09:52 PM   #56
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Just out of curiosity I decided to see how caked up it was by scraping it out, it was literally solidified!
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      02-29-2016, 10:56 PM   #57
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BeasteMode, any update? Everyday I check to see if you have an update ...
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      03-01-2016, 08:57 AM   #58
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The only other time that I've seen clogging like that is when someone used that "oil stop leak" crap... it ended up clogging every single oil cavity of the turbo exactly like that, and it also severely gunked up nearly all of the oil jets on the bottom end, and left sludge under the valve cover....

That stuff ruins engines especially in the hotter areas like a turbo.
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      03-01-2016, 10:01 AM   #59
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BeasteMode, any update? Everyday I check to see if you have an update ...
Downpipes are arriving today, then just have to make a pit stop at BMW and grab all the oil/coolant line o-rings, and this weekend it's all getting put back together.. Already have the CHRA's cleaned and swapped was just waiting on my 3" catless downpipes so I could put it all back together in one shot..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Izero View Post
The only other time that I've seen clogging like that is when someone used that "oil stop leak" crap... it ended up clogging every single oil cavity of the turbo exactly like that, and it also severely gunked up nearly all of the oil jets on the bottom end, and left sludge under the valve cover....

That stuff ruins engines especially in the hotter areas like a turbo.
Yeah the previous owner was an asshat and completely neglected this car.. I just bought a can of Liquimoly Engine Flush that I'm going to run before I even drive this thing once it's all reassembled.. It was recommended by a few different people so I'll give it a shot..
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      03-01-2016, 10:04 AM   #60
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When I was removing the old turbos, I had to pry off two of the oil lines and very slightly bent the tab's a bit.. Someone on n54tech said if they bend they need to be replaced, but BMW wants $850 for those hoses and I'm not doing that.. Why can't I just possibly heat it up a bit and bend the tab back a tiny bit to make it centered again with a vice or something..?? I noticed RobC said he just tightened them down and they leveled back out, but I figure I could try while I have everything apart.. I'm sure I'm not the only person this has happened to..
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      04-11-2017, 08:38 AM   #61
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I've gotten tons of PM's asking how well this went so just figured I'd drop a yearly update and say, after getting the new CHRA's from RB Turbo, I'm going on 1 year and 1 month of issue free driving @ 20psi and being FBO.. Couple hiccups here and there as expected with this motor, but nothing that wasn't a fairly simple fix..
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      04-11-2017, 09:32 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
I've gotten tons of PM's asking how well this went so just figured I'd drop a yearly update and say, after getting the new CHRA's from RB Turbo, I'm going on 1 year and 1 month of issue free driving @ 20psi and being FBO.. Couple hiccups here and there as expected with this motor, but nothing that wasn't a fairly simple fix..
Let's be 100% clear on what *exactly* you're referring to here...did you order the ~$60 takeoff CHRAs from RB or the more expensive fully rebuilt versions?

Without this info, no one has any idea what you are talking about.
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      04-11-2017, 10:08 AM   #63
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Im curious how you're confused. He took his turbos apart, replaced chras, internals, rebuilt them, reinstalled. Where's the confusion? And I'm a bit confused. Are you trying to do this? Has anyone who is trying to do this confused? If they are, did they ask? If they didn't ask but they are confused, do you think they could ask themselves so they get tge info thst they specifically need? Or were you appointed chief picker of nits and you're required to critique every post that doesn't meet your standards. I could understand if there was something patently false posted, but there isn't. And if someone did want more detsils I'm sure they could request them without your assistance.

Last edited by Fundguy1; 04-11-2017 at 10:16 AM..
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      04-11-2017, 10:09 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
Let's be 100% clear on what *exactly* you're referring to here...did you order the ~$60 takeoff CHRAs from RB or the more expensive fully rebuilt versions?

Without this info, no one has any idea what you are talking about.
Well to be fair, nobody ever has any idea what you're talking about, so I'm not quite sure you're one to make such a bold statement..

Considering all you do is post shit, just to post shit.. I mean seriously, in 6 years as a member here you've only created 10 threads, all of which were non beneficial, yet you have almost 3,200 total posts lmao.. Furthermore, 99.9% of the time your posts are negative, accusative, demeaning, and usually just pointless.. I'm a smart ass Italian from Jersey so it doesn't bother me in the least bit, but I guess it's just an ego thing for ya..

Oh and btw, it's not the $60 ones, and considering the "thanks" and feedback I received in here and via PM, I'd say this wasn't very hard to understand for anybody but you..
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      04-11-2017, 10:48 AM   #65
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sheesh...must be that time of the month.

Excuse me for being genuinely curious about what OP was referring to. Let's get one thing straight; he didn't "rebuild" anything. That would have made this thread far more interesting actually...

Instead, he merely swapped CHRAs. Since he had such good luck with whatever CHRA he was using, I figured it was worth clarification. Since NO ONE has really posted their experience/reviews w/ rebuilt CHRAs from RB, it should at least be worth mentioning explicitly.

As I mentioned, RB has two for sale...until you two started a grope fest, it was anyone's best guess as to what was actually being installed here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230953274413...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/232178531767...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

lol how quickly we forget

OP you can infatuate over my resume later...don't you have GC Lites to install in the meantime?

Last edited by FCobra94; 04-11-2017 at 12:04 PM..
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      04-11-2017, 12:11 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
When I was removing the old turbos, I had to pry off two of the oil lines and very slightly bent the tab's a bit.. Someone on n54tech said if they bend they need to be replaced, but BMW wants $850 for those hoses and I'm not doing that.. Why can't I just possibly heat it up a bit and bend the tab back a tiny bit to make it centered again with a vice or something..?? I noticed RobC said he just tightened them down and they leveled back out, but I figure I could try while I have everything apart.. I'm sure I'm not the only person this has happened to..
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
I've gotten tons of PM's asking how well this went so just figured I'd drop a yearly update and say, after getting the new CHRA's from RB Turbo, I'm going on 1 year and 1 month of issue free driving @ 20psi and being FBO.. Couple hiccups here and there as expected with this motor, but nothing that wasn't a fairly simple fix..
So what did you do with the bent tabs? Just straightened it back up and she's all good? or did you buy new ones from the stealer?

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