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      12-10-2006, 09:07 PM   #1
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HELP! Water spots after 8 hours of "detailing"

Washed with sheepskin mitts with sliding strokes, very little weight. Washed off mitt each time before returning it to the bucket. Soap was Meguire's Gold Wash. Wash bucket has guards at the bottom so mitt never touches dirt.

After the wash, I blotched dry with waffle weave MF towels (2). I got lazy and didn't do the claybar (Car is 3 weeks old and didn't feel gritty). Applied Klasse AIO with damp terrycloth pad applicator. Took pictures. Car looked amazing. Then applied SG with damp terrycloth pad applicator. Wiped on and wiped off immediately for both. With the SG, the immediate wipe off was done with an extra plush MF towel. The AIO removal was with two extra fine MFs.

I went out to the garage tonight just to admire the day's work and under the light bulb I see small dots of watermarks here and there on the hood. I didn't see them in pictures I took (Only reflections of palm tree visible in the pictures)

The only thing I did do was last night, I tried to get the washing done and successfully washed, but I was getting eatten alive so I left the car wet and closed the garage knowing I'd be rewashing in the morning. I noticed some dried water marks in the morning, but figured they come off with the wash and Klasse AIO.

How do I fix this? Currently I have one coat of SG on. Do I need to clay now to remove these spots? I don't currently own a PC and would rather not purchase one if I don't have to. Any rec's would be greatly appreciated

BTW, the wash mitt you see in the pictures on the floor was NOT used on the car. I used it to wash the inside of the rims behind the spokes. I even purchased a mother's wheel brushed and cleaned between the rotor and the rim (I used a toothbrush between the caliper and the rim). The pictures were after AIO but BEFORE SG.

Also, I read to clean the MF, to wash them together. How do you clean the Sheepskin wash mitt?
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      12-10-2006, 09:43 PM   #2
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I've been reading around and some are recommending 50/50 white distilled vinegar and distilled water.

Has anyone had experience with this product?: The Menzerna Hand Swirl Removing Kit is designed for the person that does not have a machine polisher. It contains a compound and polish that can be applied by hand to remove or visually reduce minor paint defects.

Or this one: Imperial Hand Glaze by 3M.
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      12-10-2006, 10:09 PM   #3
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Alright, a couple things. First thing you should try is something you already have - AIO. AIO is a chemical cleaner, if it's calcium or another mineral deposit (from the evaporated water), AIO will remove them in a snap. Just put a dab of AIO on an mf and gently rub the area. Try this a few times, each time using successively more force (don't go nuts, but use some pressure). If this does it, re-apply HGSG in that are and go have a beer. I've removed some pretty nasty water spots with staight up AIO, so do try it.

Alternatively (or in addition to), you can try the distilled vinegar, or if you have no vinegar at home try rubbing alcohol and water mixed 50/50 in a bottle, spray and wipe off. This is a common solution used by detailers to remove both water spots and strip sealants.

If that *does not* do it, then you are dealing with an etching, now this may be from water or it may be from a bird poop, it's hard to say. Either way, you're going to need some abrasion; but before you order anything online head on over to your local pep boys, autozone, etc and grab a tube of Meguiars ScratchX. Here is how you'll use it:

Put a small dab (size of a nickel) of ScratchX on an mf cloth (folded)
Rub the ScratchX into the effected spot. Now this is important: ScratchX has abrasives that need to break down. To break them down you need heat, and heat is caused by friction, so you need to rub rather vigorously. Not HARD, but with light pressure, and quickly. Do this for 30 seconds or so and the ScratchX will turn completely clear. When it's clear the abrasives have broken down.
Remove residue and inspect.

Now, if the marks are gone, you're done (re-apply HGSG in that spot), if they are reduces, repeat as needed until they are gone. If they do not budge then you're in a little bit of a pickle.

If AIO and ScratchX do not remove an etching it is likely you'll need a machine buff. You can try a more aggressive "by hand" polish (like the menzerna kit, which incidentally will just come with Intensive Polish and FPII, their two machine polishes), but it is likely that by hand you won't be able to produce the friction needed to adequately break them down thus removing the etching. It is worth a shot though.

Incidentally, AIO and/or ScratchX *should* do it unless it is a very bad bird poop etching. It is unlikely that even the hardest water in America could produce an etching deep enough to require machine buffing overnight, so your chances are good.

One more thing, if you're sure it was from the water, I would highly recommend using a water softener next time you wash. If the water in your area is so hard that it is producing etchings overnight you are in for a rough time with that cars paint and washing.

Lastly, good luck.
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      12-10-2006, 10:10 PM   #4
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A Quick detailer should take car of that...I would never put vinegar on my car, even if bmw told me too, that stuff is pretty harsh, I use Mequiers quick detailer and it works great, I use it when I get water spots and it takes care of them no problem

Car looks great though!!
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      12-10-2006, 10:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
A Quick detailer should take car of that...I would never put vinegar on my car, even if bmw told me too, that stuff is pretty harsh, I use Mequiers quick detailer and it works great, I use it when I get water spots and it takes care of them no problem

Car looks great though!!
Vinegar is a very mild acetic acid, you could leave it on your cars paint for a week and it would suffer no adverse effects (other than leaving a little evaporation ring). Factory paint is not solvent based. It is likely that the hard water in the OPs area is more harmful to his paint than vinegar would be.

I understand the reluctance, since vinegar or alcohol seem so scary re: paint, but they're safe.
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      12-10-2006, 10:17 PM   #6
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wow, i could eat my lunch off that car it's that clean!

yeah, right off the trunk there...

some solid meatball something or the other
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      12-10-2006, 10:18 PM   #7
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Sorry to hear that you are getting eaten alive (by what)? anyway, now you know how harmful the water from your hose is, it has plenty of iron and mineral that is harmful to your car shiny surface. But your car look great.
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      12-10-2006, 10:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus
Vinegar is a very mild acetic acid, you could leave it on your cars paint for a week and it would suffer no adverse effects. Factory paint is not solvent based. It is likely that the hard water in the OPs area is more harmful to his paint than vinegar would be.
I don't think I am thread jacking because I am asking about water spots! But sorry if I am...

God you know your stuff! Great Advice...I am going to ask you my own questions since you know your stuff...I live out in the middle of no where (with the cows) and have a well for water, (really hard water!) I have managed to keep my paint in good condition, polishing it by hand alot and constantly adding sealents at the first sign of the water no beading...BUT my glass...that is another story. I never dryed them or really cleaned them and now I am paying the price.It is in Horrible condition, etched like crazy, and water spots I can't get out to save my life! They are REALLY bad including the rear view mirrors! I have washed and washed with soaps, windex, and even clayed them! Nothing!! I grabbed a wheel brush even to see if I could get them out but nothing!! I am getting a 7424 from the "little lady" for christmas, am I going to have to polish them like you would the paint! I really appericate the help and thanks again!
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      12-10-2006, 10:30 PM   #9
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same problem with my glass. I have tinted window and i can really see the etched water spot on my glass on the 4 doors. front windshield and back window are all good. waht to do?
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      12-10-2006, 10:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
I don't think I am thread jacking because I am asking about water spots! But sorry if I am...

God you know your stuff! Great Advice...I am going to ask you my own questions since you know your stuff...I live out in the middle of no where (with the cows) and have a well for water, (really hard water!) I have managed to keep my paint in good condition, polishing it by hand alot and constantly adding sealents at the first sign of the water no beading...BUT my glass...that is another story. I never dryed them or really cleaned them and now I am paying the price.It is in Horrible condition, etched like crazy, and water spots I can't get out to save my life! They are REALLY bad including the rear view mirrors! I have washed and washed with soaps, windex, and even clayed them! Nothing!! I grabbed a wheel brush even to see if I could get them out but nothing!! I am getting a 7424 from the "little lady" for christmas, am I going to have to polish them like you would the paint! I really appericate the help and thanks again!
That's a tough one. Do you use a softener when washing? Just curious.

On the actual removal of the spots, it will really depend on if they are deposits or etchings. It *is* possible they are deposits; I once did an S4 where the guy (and I) was convinced the spots on his rear glass were etchings, they were some of the hardest little buggers I ever tried to remove, and in the end what did it was a chemical cleaner on a fairly aggressive pad at a high speed via the PC. SO... the first thing I would try if I were you is that. So, if you have AIO, try AIO on a white, speed 5 or higher...really work a spot at a time and see if you make any progress. If you don't have AIO I highly recommend Jeffs Werkstatt Prime Strong (it's an even more aggressive chemical cleaner) (jeffswerkstatt.com). If that doesn't work try an orange pad.

If that doesn't work odds are they are indeed etchings, in which case the news isn't good - polishing glass is almost impossible without a very high speed rotary (as in, 30k rpm, which is 20x the speed at which you polish paint). You can get it done professionally, but it's cost prohibitive, and you're usually better off replacing the glass.

However, the good news is it's very difficult to etch glass (since it's so much harder than paint), so I really thing the chemical cleaner + high PC speed has a good chance of succeeding. I wish I had some pics of those spots I dealt with on that S4... let me see.

Ahh, here we go. Some of them that were on the paint:

http://****************/pics/audis4062106/b.jpg

They looked totally like etchings, and were miserably hard to remove, but in the end it was deposits.
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      12-10-2006, 10:32 PM   #11
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I'll go see if my camera can pic it up...Thanks so MUCH!
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      12-10-2006, 10:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
same problem with my glass. I have tinted window and i can really see the etched water spot on my glass on the 4 doors. front windshield and back window are all good. waht to do?
I really think you guys might be dealing with very hard deposits. It's incredibly hard to etch glass, so for two guys in one thread to have etched glass of the proportions you're both describing would be really weird.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
I'll go see if my camera can pic it up...Thanks so MUCH!
Haha, you don't have to run out and take pics now (hardcore).

Anyway, give that chemical cleaner a try (all of you), and see how it works.
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      12-10-2006, 10:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by picus

Ahh, here we go. Some of them that were on the paint:

http://****************/pics/audis4062106/b.jpg

They looked totally like etchings, and were miserably hard to remove, but in the end it was deposits.

They look nothing like that....If glass also dosn't feel smooth to the touch at all....and the sunroof has it the worst...kinda hard to see but maybe you can identify

Edit: the streeks are from my finger on them....







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      12-10-2006, 10:50 PM   #14
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ouch!

wow, those look kinda f'ed up

good luck!
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      12-10-2006, 10:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nocturnal
ouch!

wow, those look kinda f'ed up

good luck!
Damn....that is not what I wanted to hear!
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      12-10-2006, 11:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneshare325
Damn....that is not what I wanted to hear!

No No, i'm no detailing expert... (believe me, just look at my car )

I'm sure there's people here that can help.
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      12-11-2006, 12:34 AM   #17
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What sort of a water softener can you use when washing? Just wondering, because our water is very hard, too.
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      12-11-2006, 02:50 AM   #18
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They sell some stuff called MX 7 here that takes care of those spots on the windshield. I have never seen it in the mainland before. I always dry the windows first when washing. Good luck!
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      12-11-2006, 07:39 AM   #19
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oneshare325 - those look like some pretty serious spots. I would still try the chemical cleaner (if you don't already have AIO, get some Prime Strong). The fact that the glass FEELs rough leads me to believe they could very well be deposits. Etchings are usually so shallow you can no feel them, however it's still hard to say from pictures. You'll definitely no after using prime on a PC. If it doesn't touch them they are definitely etchings.

Here's one more option, now some of you guys may have a crap when you read it but it was recommended to me buy a deatailer I have a ton of respect for, I have no used it but he has more than once and said it worked wonderfully on glass; CLR. Ya, the stuff they sell on TV. He said he had some hard water spots on some guys sunroof that were absolutely not moving, and he tried some CLR and bam, gone. He also said it's completely safe for glass and paint, but I wouldn't put it on my paint. I'd try this if the chemical cleaner doesn't work; since at that point your only other option is new glass. Just put some on a cloth, wipe it on the glass, and cross your fingers.

(fwiw, I DO think the chemical cleaner will work )
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      12-11-2006, 07:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK
What sort of a water softener can you use when washing? Just wondering, because our water is very hard, too.
One of the best cheap things you can get to mitigate hard water problems is this:

http://www.pwgazette.com/gardenhosefilters.htm

The $34 filter absolutely brilliant, some guys put them back to back but I found one does an awesome job all by itself. To use it you also need to buy the $16 water softener cartridge, which is re-usable. So $50 total.

If you want to get super crazy you can do this:

http://autopia.org/forum/detailing-p...light=softener

but seriously that $34 filter and $16 cartridge will help immensely on even the hardest water.
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      12-11-2006, 08:04 AM   #21
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Let me just say that I am not an expert at this. However, looking at oneshare325's photos, I also agreed with picus that it is deposit because you can feel it with your finger. That is the very reason why I always dry my car right after I wash it (not 1 hours later, not 2 hours later). I also must say that the glass on my 4 doors look nothing like oneshare325's case and I think I am in pretty good shape and safe to say I have etching issue. Why I say that is because if you run your finger on my glass, it is very smooth (as silk). The reason why I can see them is cuz I have the tint and it really is easy to see against the dark tint. Sound like I have to live with my etched issue but the good news is you can not tell anything is there unless you use a moist tower and run it across the glass's surface and you will see them everytime.

Also, I have tint so I do not want to use any chemcial near my tint (like amonia) which could lead to discoloration.
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      12-11-2006, 08:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txusa03
Let me just say that I am not an expert at this. However, looking at oneshare325's photos, I also agreed with picus that it is deposit because you can feel it with your finger. That is the very reason why I always dry my car right after I wash it (not 1 hours later, not 2 hours later). I also must say that the glass on my 4 doors look nothing like oneshare325's case and I think I am in pretty good shape and safe to say I have etching issue. Why I say that is because if you run your finger on my glass, it is very smooth (as silk). The reason why I can see them is cuz I have the tint and it really is easy to see against the dark tint. Sound like I have to live with my etched issue but the good news is you can not tell anything is there unless you use a moist tower and run it across the glass's surface and you will see them everytime.

Also, I have tint so I do not want to use any chemcial near my tint (like amonia) which could lead to discoloration.
The tint is on the inside though, right?

I'd still give a chemical cleaner a try on the outside, though you're right - if you can't feel them and they are very obvious then it is highly possible they are etchings.
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