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Normal coolant operating tempearture for a 335D
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01-28-2013, 06:53 AM | #1 |
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Normal coolant operating tempearture for a 335D
I've seen quite a few posts about coolant temperatures on the 335D - mostly in regards to EGR and main thermostats. Some as high as 90+.
What is the factory defined operating temperature for the coolant ? Does anyone know what the defined range is, rather than observed values ? And is it the same for pre and post ED variants ? D.
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01-28-2013, 07:50 AM | #2 |
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Since I replaced both my stats it runs 88-91 constantly, so I'm guessing as both parts were new this is the design range.
While DPF regenerates the temps climb to the high 90's Shane
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01-28-2013, 10:00 AM | #3 |
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I dont know Dave
All i can offer is provided the coolant is kept above 78 the DPF will continue to function. I also replaced my stats and now achieve 91c every journey. It warms within 10mins to regen temps (low 80s) and it will take a further 5 mins to reach 91c. If the car is taking longer to warm up but is still achieving > 78c you still may have DPF issues if you don't drive it for long enough. I know you are probably aware of this The only other thing i heard was BMW didnt put a temp gauge on the 335D because it can vary so much. It can range from 78c to 90c when doing a regen so such a fluctuation is either going to alarm customers and create unnecessary panic or BMW would build in a buffer which is just pointless. |
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01-28-2013, 12:24 PM | #4 |
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Mine showed reduced fuel economy dropping from 40's to 33mpg. Hidden menu showed it was barely reaching 55 degrees home to work and 65 degrees work to home (35 minute journey mainly motorway). Replaced egr thermostat - shot up to 77 degrees. Two weeks later (delay due to bad weather) replaced main thermostat. Never got above 80 degrees except when regen.
Now stays around 65 degrees some 6 weeks later - lesson? dont buy these parts from eurocarparts. Got a BMW egr thermostat on its way I will update with the results. Will probably have to go through the changing the main stat also...... I know the temp sender range is working (ie is not faulty) because it does reach the magic 90 degrees when doing a regen. So I am aiming to replace parts until I achieve the quoted 90 degrees. As above the DPF is the main worry... |
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01-29-2013, 06:47 AM | #5 |
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mine reaches 83/84 on a long motorway drive, i checked it yesterday. In traffic it can tip 90. I'm thinking of getting them both changed to be on the safe side - does anyone know what i should be paying, parts and labour?
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01-29-2013, 07:16 AM | #6 | |
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Whats your MPG like? Its often poor if the diesel runs cool.
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01-29-2013, 10:04 AM | #7 | |
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I ordered parts; 11517805811 £40.24, 11717787870 £29.94, 83192211191 Antifreeze £8.70 (this is for a 325d) |
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01-29-2013, 01:32 PM | #10 | |
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Tom
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01-29-2013, 01:42 PM | #11 |
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I would say EGR thermostat is working (opens around 70 degrees) - sounds like main stat has gone weak as that should stay closed until 90 degrees. I have read a lot of posts and thats how I understand it....I think
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01-29-2013, 01:49 PM | #12 | |
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If the EGR stat isn't closing properly the it's not letting the flow of coolant be held at the main stat, it acts as a bypass route So, again, the cheaper option is to replace the EGR stat first as it's cheaper (around £12) and an easy DIY as you won't lose any coolant) then if that stat change doesn't cure it replace the main one !
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01-29-2013, 01:49 PM | #13 |
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I'm going for broke, I've got both, I'm doing that and the glowplugs, hopefully on Thursday if the weather is ok, I'll do the photos and write up - I doubt it will be a hugely different job to a 335d?
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01-29-2013, 01:53 PM | #14 | |
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The glow plugs are easy, just time consuming removing all the plastics, whilst you have the inlet off remove the swirl flaps too I now it's not essential, but it made positive improvements to the power delivery and drive of the car (335d) once the ecu had adapted (somewhere between 1 and 2 tanks of fuel)
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01-29-2013, 02:59 PM | #16 |
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Thanks for the feedback.
Mine was hovering around 79-81 after a good half hour of driving, so perhaps slightly low. D.
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01-29-2013, 05:11 PM | #17 | |
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EGR thermostat has twin stage elements, first stage 70C opening temperature, with restricted flow, and full flow (second stage) at 90C, to follow the main thermostat opening temperature. Otherwise (as another post states) the faulty EGR thermostat flow by-passes the main thermostat control and chills the engine, and/or prevents efficient warm up and optimum ECT. If an EGR thermostat opens pre main thermostat (88C), assuming the main thermostat is still in tolerance, the engine will not reach peak ECT in normal use. Although it may still exceed 90C during a regeneration, as there is typically much more heat in the engine. HighlandPete |
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01-30-2013, 04:04 AM | #18 |
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Ok so mine's not a 335, but the 325 hit 89 today as part of the regen, does that mean I shouldn't change the stats? I thought if the car wasn't running hot enought the dpf wouldn't regen.
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01-30-2013, 04:06 AM | #19 | |
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One or both of your stats require changing. There are allot of factors involved with DPF regen, you may have just triggered enough of them to get a regen cycle.
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01-30-2013, 12:39 PM | #20 | |
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01-30-2013, 04:03 PM | #21 | |
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From a couple of EGR thermostats I 'dissected'. NOTE: A faulty auto gearbox oil cooler thermostat can do the same, it also can by-pass the main thermostat, and allows cold coolant directly from the bottom of the radiator into the circulating flow. Oil cooler thermostat is part of the heat exchanger, so a costly repair. HighlandPete Last edited by HighlandPete; 01-30-2013 at 04:40 PM.. |
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01-31-2013, 01:12 AM | #22 | ||
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I changed the main thermostat about 1 month ago too, as that seemed to be the natural progression with this reoccurring fault. Quote:
One chap mentioned the "Top Hose Thermostat Modification" in a previous post and that worked successfully- as I undertand this is inserting a "Thermostat" into the top hose preventing any Bi-pass situations. I searched and searched for this but couldnt find the spec or DIY on how to do this and with what parts - or is it safe to do versus the "costly" gearbox heat exchanger repair? Is there anything else I can do / try to diagnose my low coolant temperatures Definitively?? Thanks again for your help |
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