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Replacing Coolant Expansion Tank - Need to Bleed the System?
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10-19-2015, 08:16 PM | #1 |
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Replacing Coolant Expansion Tank - Need to Bleed the System?
Hey guys,
My Coolant Expansion Tank started leaking today This will be my second tank since the car was new (2011) The first tank was replaced in 2011 under warranty but I'm not out of warranty and going to change the tank myself Question I have, is do I need to bleed the system? Thoughts / Comments? Thanks
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2014 BMW F25 X3 2.8i MSport
2011 BMW E92 335xi 1997 Eclipse Spyder GSX (yes, an AWD Spyder - one of a few in Canada) - 12.7 @ 110 mph w/ 1.8 60' |
10-19-2015, 10:39 PM | #3 |
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There is no harm in bleeding 2 or 3 times....... So just do it.... Just to be on the safe side.
Hope you know how to electronically bleed your car...... Its takes 12 min. DN |
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10-20-2015, 05:57 AM | #4 |
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You will have to perform the basic bleed with the bleeder screw on the expansion tank out, then once that is done, you will need to run the water pump purge procedure to get any air out that may be trapped. You can run this purge procedure a few times, but it does take a load off the battery, so consider (I haven't ever bothered to) hooking up a charger to keep the battery up to power while you do this.
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10-20-2015, 06:27 AM | #6 |
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It's literally just making sure that all the air in the various hoses that connect to the expansion tank is expelled. All it really involves is removing that bleeder screw, then slowly pouring in the coolant until there are no more bubbles in the coolant that will start to flow out of the bleeder hole. Once this is done, you may need to remove a small amount of excess coolant from the expansion tank so that the level is correct. Then put the bleeder screw back and close the expansion tank. Now you can run the purge procedure to do the rest. Open the expansion tank cap to release any of the trapped air that has been purged, close, and repeat at least one more time. But don't open the cap after the final purge. I somehow think that the purge procedure builds up a certain amount of pressure which helps the system in terms of efficiency, could be wrong on that point though.
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10-20-2015, 06:37 AM | #7 |
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If it's on your 2011 you do not have a bleeder screw.
remove cap and leave off till complete top off the coolant turn key on temperature setting to max fan speed to lowest setting press the accelerator pedal for 12 seconds this will start the bleeding procedure if done correctly watch tank and top off it sucks down you will see a little stream coming out in the tank |
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10-20-2015, 11:13 AM | #8 |
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No bleeder screw on those models and later? Weird! It's like the LCI models not having a key lock for the boot (trunk)...
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10-20-2015, 04:39 PM | #10 |
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Wow, okay, that is quite mad.
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12-04-2015, 03:39 PM | #11 |
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Weird that you guys don't have it. I have a bleeder screw and mine is a n55 06/11 build date.
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