[iMore]

Hey All!

2011 335i/N55 with 140k miles… car is running great but I recently pulled codes and got a 2C90. No other supporting/shadow codes. Smoke tested, no obvious vacuum leaks that I could find.

Vehicle is NOT tuned currently… but I recently installed a VRSF chargepipe, BMS intake, VRSF intercooler, and slapped on a Turbosmart Kompact (plumback) diverter valve. Additionally, I did do the “Golf Tee” mod to the exhaust flap.

I purchased the vehicle with 132k miles and have since done most maintenance. New VC/gasket, new plugs, new coils, and walnut blast. All vacuum hoses were replaced also.

I’m using this as daily… and drive a lot, including occasional longer road trips. Is that 2C90 due to the mods thus far? Or should I take a deeper dive? Just want to get a feel for how concerned I should be at this point!

Thanks!

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Hard to say without any data but that code is usually about diverter/bov stuff. Considering you installed a DV maybe something isn't working properly?

1) Do you have JB4 on your car? If so 2C90 is usually a tuner's cose that you ignore.

2) Does the car feel like it's not performing as usual? Perhaps taking a datalog to see what the boost levels are will allow us to know if anything is going on.

[iMore]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

Hard to say without any data but that code is usually about diverter/bov stuff. Considering you installed a DV maybe something isn't working properly?

1) Do you have JB4 on your car? If so 2C90 is usually a tuner's cose that you ignore.

2) Does the car feel like it's not performing as usual? Perhaps taking a datalog to see what the boost levels are will allow us to know if anything is going on.

Thanks for the reply!

1. No JB4 and never been tuned. I thought maybe that might be the issue since I do have some Bolt-Ons installed?

2. Car runs/drives what feels to be perfectly normal… I just took it on a 500 mile round trip road-trip with 0 issues, even averaged 33 mpg! However, I’ve owned the car for only about 6 months, and it’s spent most of that time in the garage/shop getting maintenance and mods installed. So my baseline isn’t the best.

I do have a catted downpipe sitting in my garage waiting to be installed, and at that point I plan on going with a MHD tune. (Not too aggressive - I plan on using this as a fun daily commuter) However, I’m waiting until all else is lined up and ready before going that route.

Any suggestions on how to grab the data logs and monitor boost? Should I just skip to purchasing the MHD full license to be able to do all of that?

Thanks again!

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by iMore

Thanks for the reply!

1. No JB4 and never been tuned. I thought maybe that might be the issue since I do have some Bolt-Ons installed?

2. Car runs/drives what feels to be perfectly normal… I just took it on a 500 mile round trip road-trip with 0 issues, even averaged 33 mpg! However, I’ve owned the car for only about 6 months, and it’s spent most of that time in the garage/shop getting maintenance and mods installed. So my baseline isn’t the best.

I do have a catted downpipe sitting in my garage waiting to be installed, and at that point I plan on going with a MHD tune. (Not too aggressive - I plan on using this as a fun daily commuter) However, I’m waiting until all else is lined up and ready before going that route.

Any suggestions on how to grab the data logs and monitor boost? Should I just skip to purchasing the MHD full license to be able to do all of that?

Thanks again!

Hello!

I defenetlty encourage you to get the MHD logging module. Even if you tune your car mildly it is a must have tool that will allow you understand how your car is performance and doing pretty well.

If you plan on mildly tuning your car then I guess gettting the super license will save you money. If you know you want to wait a while before tuning the car perhaps you could just get the monitoring license.

Once you have the monitoring license, I'll be able to tell you how to log and then we can check to see how the boost is behaving. Maybe the turbosmart dv triggered that code or maybe there is something off.

Good luck!

[iMore]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

Hello!

I defenetlty encourage you to get the MHD logging module. Even if you tune your car mildly it is a must have tool that will allow you understand how your car is performance and doing pretty well.

If you plan on mildly tuning your car then I guess gettting the super license will save you money. If you know you want to wait a while before tuning the car perhaps you could just get the monitoring license.

Once you have the monitoring license, I'll be able to tell you how to log and then we can check to see how the boost is behaving. Maybe the turbosmart dv triggered that code or maybe there is something off.

Good luck!

Thank you for all of that! That MHD adapter is definitely due… I’m working on that!

In the meantime, I managed to reset the adaptations and that seemed to clear the code! (Apparently the first time I tried that, I still had a boost leak, so it was null and void) I’ve been driving since without any issues!

HOWEVER… In the last two days of driving I noticed a slight “hickup” at WOT or higher boost/speeds. No CEL or limp modes. Pulled the codes, and got 29D0 and 29D2. Misfire in cylinders 4 and 6. No other codes currently. Otherwise, the car idles normally and driving modestly doesn’t seem to be affected.

Could this be a chain reaction of a larger issue? Again, Coils and spark plugs are new, less than 2k miles on them at this point. Any tips before I dive in and start ripping this thing apart aimlessly again!? lol!

Really wish I had that logging tool on hand now!

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Good to hear! How are you reseting adaptations?! You could also use that means to log the car if ever you bought the pack right?

Sometimes if the car is tuned and you are running a to aggressive map while using low quality fuel, it might misfire and cause cylinder timing corrections.

Example here in Canada, I used 94 octane with the leadt agressive Stage 2+ map (91 ACN) because the quality of our fuel is bad. I would expect such thing to generate cylinder corrections but not misfire codes.

What spark plugs did you get?

[iMore]

I disconnected the purge valve connection and let the car idle for 15 minutes.

The vehicle is NOT tuned but does have bolt ons minus the Downpipes… I was worried maybe that was causing issues since I’m not running an appropriate tune? Minus the bolt ons, everything else is stock.

I’m went with OE Bosch spark plugs, along with OE coils when replaced in hopes of preventing any possible issues such as this. Lol.

I just ordered the MHD adapter, so it’ll be a few days before it arrives. I’m excited to get that going and logging before actually installing a tune!

Thanks again for all of your help!

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by iMore

I disconnected the purge valve connection and let the car idle for 15 minutes.

The vehicle is NOT tuned but does have bolt ons minus the Downpipes… I was worried maybe that was causing issues since I’m not running an appropriate tune? Minus the bolt ons, everything else is stock.

I’m went with OE Bosch spark plugs, along with OE coils when replaced in hopes of preventing any possible issues such as this. Lol.

I just ordered the MHD adapter, so it’ll be a few days before it arrives. I’m excited to get that going and logging before actually installing a tune!

Thanks again for all of your help!

Nice thinking, I did the same. Still running stock coil and plugs since I knkw they work great. Unless you are upgrading turbo, not really any benefit in changing these to something else.

I was worried that with something aftermarket you perhals forgot to gap to the right specs but since it's stock, can't be the issue.

Great news for the MHD logging, trust me, I truly believe it's worth it. You learn ro develop great diagnostic and monitoring skills for cars and engines in general!

[iMore]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

Nice thinking, I did the same. Still running stock coil and plugs since I knkw they work great. Unless you are upgrading turbo, not really any benefit in changing these to something else.

I was worried that with something aftermarket you perhals forgot to gap to the right specs but since it's stock, can't be the issue.

Great news for the MHD logging, trust me, I truly believe it's worth it. You learn ro develop great diagnostic and monitoring skills for cars and engines in general!

Thank you!
I just received the MHD adapter/license, so I’m ready to start logging!

How or what do you suggest I start logging now? Is there anything specific? Apologies as all of this is new to me! But I appreciate all of the assistance!

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by iMore

Thank you!
I just received the MHD adapter/license, so I’m ready to start logging!

How or what do you suggest I start logging now? Is there anything specific? Apologies as all of this is new to me! But I appreciate all of the assistance!

Great to hear, exciting stuff!

Alright so when you get into the MHD N55e app, you should go to the "Mon." tab. Go on the "OPTIONS" label to select which parameter will be logged. I just have all of them activated but here are the ones that would be important:
- Boost
- Boost Target
- Coolant
- Cyl Timing Cor (1 to 6)
- Gear
- IAT
- Lambda bank 1
- Load actual RAM
- Load req.
- LTFT
- MAF
- Oil pressure
- Oil temp
- Rail pressure mean
- RPM
- Speed
- STFT 1
- Throttle Pos. Req
- Throttle Position
- Timing Cyl (1 to 6)
- WGDC

When you have the desired options then you would be ready to log. I am not here to tell you to be safe, that's a must!

A relevant log should be taken from 3rd gear 3000 rpm and WOT until you gather enough information. Be careful, you will be at very high speed and should conduct logs in safe environment. At least try to get gear 3 and 4 up till 6k rpm.

When you are ready to log disable traction control completly. Don't just press the button to toggle DTC off, you want to hold the button until you see that DSC is inactive. Then go in 3rd gear and cruise at 3000 rpm. Press "Start datalog" on MHD. Once the datalog started, you mash the acceleration pedal but don't kickdown. You should be in wide open throttle (WOT). Keep your foot fully pressed on the pedal and shift from 3 to 4 when you are around 6000 rpm. Your device/cellphone with MHD should also flash when you are at optimal RPM to shift. Go through gear 3-4 and 5 if you feel comfortable. At the end of the log, press "End Log". This will save all the logged parameters in a CSV file that we will be able to put in a plotter and analyze.

If you feel uncomfortable at any point during your pull, or feel like that somethng is off with the car, STOP immidiately. It's not worht the risk, you can start with smaller logs!