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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > N55 DSC light show followed by limp mode



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      10-19-2023, 12:55 PM   #1
dfrogers
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N55 DSC light show followed by limp mode

Hi All,

New to the forum, recently acquired a 95k E90, came with JB4, Chargepipe and filter, I have since added VRSF DP and FMIC.

Prior to fitting the DP and FMIC I noticed some issued with it starting, almost as if the starter was sticking. It had enough charge to get the car started and once started engine ran fine. However after some small trips I went to start and it would not turn over, typical behavior when you have a low battery. I got a jump and it started first time so assumed bad battery and replaced (I didnt check voltage). It has since turned out that it was a new battery so this was not a battery issue or the origin was not the battery.

With the new battery in it started and drove totally fine but over time I have noticed the starting being a little longer and 'stickier'. Its still starting every time but not smoothly and consistent. Its fine once its warmed up, starts normally.

Post DP and FMIC install,

Last night I was in 5th and pulling (WOT) and indicating left on an offramp and the car triggered into limp mode with a DSC error and Break on the dash, complete loss of power and I drifted to a stop. Restarted the car and it was back to normal no remaining errors.

I have ran codes and am getting two related to the DME,

36FD DME main relay, implausibility open
29D0 Misfire 4th cylinder of engine
3876 The diagnostic function monitors the onboard electrical system's voltage at the DME while the engine is running.
36C9 Charge pipe or air leak

Going to check, 0. Tyre pressures (I read it can mess around with the speed sensors.... and I did just put more air in one of the rears) 1. engine ground cable 2. chargepipe is secure no leaks 3. Fusebox and battery cable (my VIN is not flagging the recall so it may have been done) and test if still happening 4. Alternator voltages and replacement 5. Speed sensors & alignment

Is there anything else I should be looking at. I am going to test after each step.

Thanks all
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      10-19-2023, 01:32 PM   #2
SlowE92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrogers View Post
Hi All,

New to the forum, recently acquired a 95k E90, came with JB4, Chargepipe and filter, I have since added VRSF DP and FMIC.

Prior to fitting the DP and FMIC I noticed some issued with it starting, almost as if the starter was sticking. It had enough charge to get the car started and once started engine ran fine. However after some small trips I went to start and it would not turn over, typical behavior when you have a low battery. I got a jump and it started first time so assumed bad battery and replaced (I didnt check voltage). It has since turned out that it was a new battery so this was not a battery issue or the origin was not the battery.

With the new battery in it started and drove totally fine but over time I have noticed the starting being a little longer and 'stickier'. Its still starting every time but not smoothly and consistent. Its fine once its warmed up, starts normally.

Post DP and FMIC install,

Last night I was in 5th and pulling (WOT) and indicating left on an offramp and the car triggered into limp mode with a DSC error and Break on the dash, complete loss of power and I drifted to a stop. Restarted the car and it was back to normal no remaining errors.

I have ran codes and am getting two related to the DME,

36FD DME main relay, implausibility open
29D0 Misfire 4th cylinder of engine
3876 The diagnostic function monitors the onboard electrical system's voltage at the DME while the engine is running.
36C9 Charge pipe or air leak

Going to check, 0. Tyre pressures (I read it can mess around with the speed sensors.... and I did just put more air in one of the rears) 1. engine ground cable 2. chargepipe is secure no leaks 3. Fusebox and battery cable (my VIN is not flagging the recall so it may have been done) and test if still happening 4. Alternator voltages and replacement 5. Speed sensors & alignment

Is there anything else I should be looking at. I am going to test after each step.

Thanks all
When you changed the battery did you register it to your vehicle?
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      10-19-2023, 01:48 PM   #3
dfrogers
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I did not, I plan on putting the original back in, as I understand it they can cause issues when not coded. I have never swapped a BMW battery..... The previous was coded in and ill just have to get it back up to charge. Should have added that to my list. Thanks
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      10-19-2023, 03:04 PM   #4
SlowE92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrogers View Post
I did not, I plan on putting the original back in, as I understand it they can cause issues when not coded. I have never swapped a BMW battery..... The previous was coded in and ill just have to get it back up to charge. Should have added that to my list. Thanks
If you have MHD you can register the battery as long as its the same type that you replace it with. The chargepipe leak may only be noticeable at WOT since the code triggered during a WOT pull and when stationary everything might be fine, as well as the misfire on cylinder 4, definitely check the plug, coil, injector etc etc.. can you post a log during a pull?
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      10-19-2023, 05:15 PM   #5
dfrogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoB96 View Post
If you have MHD you can register the battery as long as its the same type that you replace it with. The chargepipe leak may only be noticeable at WOT since the code triggered during a WOT pull and when stationary everything might be fine, as well as the misfire on cylinder 4, definitely check the plug, coil, injector etc etc.. can you post a log during a pull?
It has had new plugs and coils this year so I dont believe its going to be that. The indy that did that work is reputable and knows BMWs so I am assuming that if there was an issue with 4 they would have spotted it at the time of fitting (before my ownership). Unless it was on its way, I'd be surprised because its been very well taken care of, oil changes every 5k etc.

I have just been out again after changing tire pressures to 35 on the rears and tested and I am not getting any DSC issues or limp mode. I know this might sound ridiculous but I had one rear tire at 42 PSI and the other at 35 PSI. I am not sure if this played around with the speed sensors to trigger that.

Going to get the old battery (nearly new, has been registered) in and charged, clear the codes and ill re-run the scenario. Ill post the logs up with that pull and get them on here. Appreciate the support man.
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      10-19-2023, 05:39 PM   #6
SlowE92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrogers View Post
It has had new plugs and coils this year so I dont believe its going to be that. The indy that did that work is reputable and knows BMWs so I am assuming that if there was an issue with 4 they would have spotted it at the time of fitting (before my ownership). Unless it was on its way, I'd be surprised because its been very well taken care of, oil changes every 5k etc.

I have just been out again after changing tire pressures to 35 on the rears and tested and I am not getting any DSC issues or limp mode. I know this might sound ridiculous but I had one rear tire at 42 PSI and the other at 35 PSI. I am not sure if this played around with the speed sensors to trigger that.

Going to get the old battery (nearly new, has been registered) in and charged, clear the codes and ill re-run the scenario. Ill post the logs up with that pull and get them on here. Appreciate the support man.
Plugs and coils can go at 10 miles, or 10,000 miles. I chased a cylinder 5 misfire for a long time just to figure out that the shop I let work on my car didn't replace the O-ring on the fuel injector. 99% of the time if a cylinder misfires its either the plug, coil, or injector or a mixture of. If you got the DSC light and the brake light at the same time you could also be low on brake fluid or your brake pads are getting low. Different tire pressures could possibly trigger the DSC light, but if both brake and DSC light came on at the same time I'd lean more towards brakes.
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      10-19-2023, 05:40 PM   #7
SlowE92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrogers View Post
It has had new plugs and coils this year so I dont believe its going to be that. The indy that did that work is reputable and knows BMWs so I am assuming that if there was an issue with 4 they would have spotted it at the time of fitting (before my ownership). Unless it was on its way, I'd be surprised because its been very well taken care of, oil changes every 5k etc.

I have just been out again after changing tire pressures to 35 on the rears and tested and I am not getting any DSC issues or limp mode. I know this might sound ridiculous but I had one rear tire at 42 PSI and the other at 35 PSI. I am not sure if this played around with the speed sensors to trigger that.

Going to get the old battery (nearly new, has been registered) in and charged, clear the codes and ill re-run the scenario. Ill post the logs up with that pull and get them on here. Appreciate the support man.
Especially if you're running a tune on your car, cut your plug and coil life in half.
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      10-19-2023, 05:48 PM   #8
dfrogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoB96 View Post
Especially if you're running a tune on your car, cut your plug and coil life in half.
Got it, ill add a check of the plug, coil and injector to the list for 4. Injectors are original, is it worth upgrading them or replacing anyway?

Ill take a look at the pads and fluid, I dont think its been touched for a while so could do with a flush anyway.
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      10-19-2023, 06:10 PM   #9
SlowE92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrogers View Post
Got it, ill add a check of the plug, coil and injector to the list for 4. Injectors are original, is it worth upgrading them or replacing anyway?

Ill take a look at the pads and fluid, I dont think its been touched for a while so could do with a flush anyway.
Personally if the injector is in good working order I wouldn't replace them yet. But if one or more craps out then definitely upgrade them. I wouldn't upgrade to the 12's unless money isn't an issue. I've been running 500 whp on index 10's with 19T turbos just fine.
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      10-19-2023, 06:13 PM   #10
dfrogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakoB96 View Post
Personally if the injector is in good working order I wouldn't replace them yet. But if one or more craps out then definitely upgrade them. I wouldn't upgrade to the 12's unless money isn't an issue. I've been running 500 whp on index 10's with 19T turbos just fine.
Ok cool, lots on my to do list, will post updates here next week. Have a great weekend man! Thanks
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      11-01-2023, 03:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrogers View Post
Ok cool, lots on my to do list, will post updates here next week. Have a great weekend man! Thanks
I'm interested in this issue. How did things continue to unfold?

Last edited by LiamBayer; 11-01-2023 at 08:10 PM..
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