[wilkoal]

Based on the positive feed back I read here and there, I changed the pads (front and rear) the lines (Sportech) and the oil (Motul RBF) to my 335 (e92).

Well after bedding them, a couple of days and 120 miles on, I can say that so far I regret the OEM.

Pads do squeal at low speed and in the city driving this is annoying.
The overall bite and pedal feeling is somehow worse than OEM. Maybe they will improve going forward (I do hope so).

I did not use any anti-squeal paste because my man at the service says they will melt and leak under hot brake conditions. Any direct experience if this is true? any alternative suggestion for the squeal?

[JoosyJoos]

Subscribed. I was thinking of doing these same upgrades... and want more feedback.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by wilkoal

Based on the positive feed back I read here and there, I changed the pads (front and rear) the lines (Sportech) and the oil (Motul RBF) to my 335 (e92).

Well after bedding them, a couple of days and 120 miles on, I can say that so far I regret the OEM.

Pads do squeal at low speed and in the city driving this is annoying.
The overall bite and pedal feeling is somehow worse than OEM. Maybe they will improve going forward (I do hope so).

I did not use any anti-squeal paste because my man at the service says they will melt and leak under hot brake conditions. Any direct experience if this is true? any alternative suggestion for the squeal?

I doubt you bedded the pads properly, as stated 10-15 hard cycles for 70 down to 10 MPH done 2 to 3 times. You need to do this 3x on old rotors. If you cannot smell the strong odor of brake pads burning you haven't done it right. You need to bring pad very close to green fade temperature which is hard to do on the street as you need to 2-3 miles on road. A real bad move not using anti squeal past your getting what is expected from any high friction pad. Order some Noise Free (NF4OZ ) from www.bavauto.com.

[wilkoal]

Originally Posted by Orb

I doubt you bedded the pads properly, as stated 10-15 hard cycles for 70 down to 10 MPH done 2 to 3 times. You need to do this 3x on old rotors. If you cannot smell the strong odor of brake pads burning you haven't done it right. You need to bring pad very close to green fade temperature which is hard to do on the street as you need to 2-3 miles on road. A real bad move not using anti squeal past your getting what is expected from any high friction pad. Order some Noise Free (NF4OZ ) from www.bavauto.com.

I was waiting for someone to show up with similar statements...

I did bed them using religiousely this recommended method
http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

As to to anti squeal foam and cream they might work at the beginning but after a while they do melt under high temperature. (btw never them in racing teams paddocks!)

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by wilkoal

I was waiting for someone to show up with similar statements...

I did bed them using religiousely this recommended method
http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

As to to anti squeal foam and cream they might work at the beginning but after a while they do melt under high temperature. (btw never them in racing teams paddocks!)

+1 on Orb.

Noisefree works great. I haven't noticed anything melting off other than my brake boots.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by wilkoal

I was waiting for someone to show up with similar statements...

I did bed them using religiousely this recommended method
http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

As to to anti squeal foam and cream they might work at the beginning but after a while they do melt under high temperature. (btw never them in racing teams paddocks!)

The bedding instruction you mentioned is not good enough and you will not get the temperature high enough to transfer material to the rotor. Follow the direction that came with the pads which is for a higher speed and 2X the cycle pre bed in. I will take much longer to get rid of the OEM pad material so 2-3 bedding will be required.

The anti-squeal product I listed doesn’t melt or doing anything but the dust boots do melt.

Orb

[Orb]

Attached are the instructions for installation and bedding for Cool Carbon brake pads. If you follow the installation instruction you have no problem with noise for the life of the pad. The bedding instructions are specific as noted. It takes 10-15 stop to do the first and subsequent bed in (2-3 times). I would suggest you take it up to 70 MPH at the very minimum (I personally used a higher speed of 80 MPH). These are race pads requiring a race pad bed in. Following the Zeckhausen instruction means then never even came close to bedding the brakes in.

To the OP, you got some bad advice and never followed the instructions.

Orb

[Mr. 5]

The thing I'm trying to understand is... why are you using this pad on the street?
Isn't this a track pad?

I chose to run EBC yellowstuff on my Rotoras, but I made the decision to go with a pad that I can use on the street and also on the track.
Of course, I lost the initial bite of the OEM pads, because my pads are going to have a higher temp range. I believe the same goes for these.

[Orb]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

The thing I'm trying to understand is... why are you using this pad on the street?
Isn't this a track pad?

I chose to run EBC yellowstuff on my Rotoras, but I made the decision to go with a pad that I can use on the street and also on the track.
Of course, I lost the initial bite of the OEM pads, because my pads are going to have a higher temp range. I believe the same goes for these.

The Cool Carbon is a street/track pads specifically. They are the only pads on the market other than the DS 2500 that produce high bite and friction (0.5) at sub zero temperature up to 1112 F for track use. There are no compromises. They don't deposit junk on your rotors either if pushed to hard like the DS 2500. They are made by a very big reputable company in Germany and sold under the Cool Carbon name.

The difference between the OEM pad and Cool Carbon for feel is they have linear bite unlike the artificial non linear bite of the OEM pads. On the track the OEM pads have the high initial bite which leads to ABS then the bite falls like a rock immediately which is inconsistent from corner to corner. The Cool Carbon are very easy to modulate and rock solid for consistency. The release under trail braking is their strongest attribute which ideal for this heavy car. The friction levels for Cool Carbon are about 0.37 and the OEM pads are 0.32 when dead cold.

The yellow stuff is okay for the street but not even come close to DS 2500 or Cool Carbon when cold. The dust is a lot lower than the OEM for day to day driving. The formulation of the material was only released last year so it using some of the newer technologies when compared to other pads that are now 5-10 years old in formulation.

Cool Carbon only makes pads for Porsche and BMW cars. The pads are much more popular with the Porsche crowd that track at the moment. You might see some BBK application in the future as well but that is uncertain.

Orb

[marconi118]

does anyone knows where these pads are produced in germany and where couly i buy them in germany???

[Mr. 5]

Interesting. It would be nice if they made them for the Rotoras so I could try them out. The yellows are pretty good but the cold stop is significantly worse than OEM. Once the yellows heat up, they are pretty damn good.

Originally Posted by Orb

The Cool Carbon is a street/track pads specifically. They are the only pads on the market other than the DS 2500 that produce high bite and friction (0.5) at sub zero temperature up to 1112 F for track use. There are no compromises. They don't deposit junk on your rotors either if pushed to hard like the DS 2500. They are made by a very big reputable company in Germany and sold under the Cool Carbon name.

The difference between the OEM pad and Cool Carbon for feel is they have linear bite unlike the artificial non linear bite of the OEM pads. On the track the OEM pads have the high initial bite which leads to ABS then the bite falls like a rock immediately which is inconsistent from corner to corner. The Cool Carbon are very easy to modulate and rock solid for consistency. The release under trail braking is their strongest attribute which ideal for this heavy car. The friction levels for Cool Carbon are about 0.37 and the OEM pads are 0.32 when dead cold.

The yellow stuff is okay for the street but not even come close to DS 2500 or Cool Carbon when cold. The dust is a lot lower than the OEM for day to day driving. The formulation of the material was only released last year so it using some of the newer technologies when compared to other pads that are now 5-10 years old in formulation.

Cool Carbon only makes pads for Porsche and BMW cars. The pads are much more popular with the Porsche crowd that track at the moment. You might see some BBK application in the future as well but that is uncertain.

Orb

[wilkoal]

Originally Posted by wilkoal

Based on the positive feed back I read here and there, I changed the pads (front and rear) the lines (Sportech) and the oil (Motul RBF) to my 335 (e92).

Well after bedding them, a couple of days and 120 miles on, I can say that so far I regret the OEM.

Pads do squeal at low speed and in the city driving this is annoying.
The overall bite and pedal feeling is somehow worse than OEM. Maybe they will improve going forward (I do hope so).

I did not use any anti-squeal paste because my man at the service says they will melt and leak under hot brake conditions. Any direct experience if this is true? any alternative suggestion for the squeal?

---------------------------------
(Update)
I now have had the above upgrade for a while and I can reasonably state that overall performance has improved although some minor squeal shows here and there at low speed.
Pedal feel is is significantly firmer than oem, most likely due to SS lines. I have not got yet the chance to test fading-resistance down hill or in track. Will let you know.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

The thing I'm trying to understand is... why are you using this pad on the street?
Isn't this a track pad?

I chose to run EBC yellowstuff on my Rotoras, but I made the decision to go with a pad that I can use on the street and also on the track.
Of course, I lost the initial bite of the OEM pads, because my pads are going to have a higher temp range. I believe the same goes for these.

Originally Posted by wilkoal

---------------------------------
(Update)
I now have had the above upgrade for a while and I can reasonably state that overall performance has improved although some minor squeal shows here and there at low speed.
Pedal feel is is significantly firmer than oem, most likely due to SS lines. I have not got yet the chance to test fading-resistance down hill or in track. Will let you know.

I couldn't get these pads to fade with R comps. Good pads, I'm on my 4th set.

[AP Racing - Chris_B]

Originally Posted by wilkoal

I did not use any anti-squeal paste because my man at the service says they will melt and leak under hot brake conditions. Any direct experience if this is true? any alternative suggestion for the squeal?

1) Pad bedding seems to be very important for the Cool Carbon street compound. I installed them on an E36 M3 and it took a bit more determination than with other street performance pads. Not necessarily a bad thing, but it must be done right. You may need to do repeat the procedure every 2 or 3 months or so unless you drive hard every now and then. That all said, we did experience some minor low speed, low pedal effort squeal -- just like the OE Jurid pads!

2) We have had very good success (even on track days) with the new Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant. It's the purple stuff. It's stays put to something over 1800°F, which is long after the pads have completely faded away. All the other stuff we tried just gets cooked and flakes off.

http://www.permatex.com/resource_aut...o_05092007.htm

Good luck,

Chris

[wilkoal]

Chris, thank you for the suggestion and feedback .