[stevens]

ebay, amazon etc

[Reece]

Originally Posted by hmpmarketing

Where did u get your battery for that price? Which one was it?

Thanks!

Not sure on the make il check tommorow, the father in law got it for me at trade price

[hmpmarketing]

Originally Posted by Reece

Not sure on the make il check tommorow, the father in law got it for me at trade price

Cheers! I also have makkan if I ever need battery

[crypticc]

Originally Posted by stevens

you need to charge it, get a ctek 5

+1


But before you do that which will auto condition the battery. Did you register the new battery? If the battery was Penutian rating as the OEM that it's all you need to do to asks destroying the new one. I'd the battery is different rating to the OEM you additionally need to code the new rating to the car else wish destroying the battery.



That said. Probably just needs a good charge. 2012 year I went to Singapore for five months, ctek got me up and running again and my battery is still going strong. ( touch wood ) 2007 battery !!!!!!

[Ibz82]

Check the voltage accross the battery. Wether the battery's charged or not you should have 14v dc. With the car running!!12v to run the car and 2v to charge the battery! You probebley getting less than 12v that's why the car cut off when it was running. It is a 2min test so defo check before you order the battery.

[Reece]

I dont get this coding the battery, ive had mine changed for a year now and not a single problem, it came with a 3 year warranty so if it goes down i will just get it changed

[Ibz82]

Originally Posted by Reece

I dont get this coding the battery, ive had mine changed for a year now and not a single problem, it came with a 3 year warranty so if it goes down i will just get it changed

If you went for the same battery then there is no need for coding. If you went for a different battery I.e. Higher or lower ampage then u need to tell the car codeing! I think your only in danger if fitted a lower rated battery than you had already(fire hazard). If you fitted a higher then it would mean that the battery isn't being used to full potential.

[hmpmarketing]

Originally Posted by Ibz82

Check the voltage accross the battery. Wether the battery's charged or not you should have 14v dc. With the car running!!12v to run the car and 2v to charge the battery! You probebley getting less than 12v that's why the car cut off when it was running. It is a 2min test so defo check before you order the battery.

Thanks for the tips! I will try that out!

Originally Posted by Ibz82

If you went for the same battery then there is no need for coding. If you went for a different battery I.e. Higher or lower ampage then u need to tell the car codeing! I think your only in danger if fitted a lower rated battery than you had already(fire hazard). If you fitted a higher then it would mean that the battery isn't being used to full potential.

Good info. I thought that if you replace the battery, even if it was OEM, you still had to recode!

[Ibz82]

Originally Posted by hmpmarketing

Thanks for the tips! I will try that out!

Good info. I thought that if you replace the battery, even if it was OEM, you still had to recode!

I not 100% on coding the like for like battery. I'm sure Sam Makkan could clear this up for us.

[MrBen]

Originally Posted by hmpmarketing

Hi Makkan,

On the CIC screen at the top, there was a little red triangle and the message "Charging Fault".

For some reason, after 10 minutes or so running on its own, car turned off by itself. Went downstairs and tried to get it started again by pressing the start/stop button and no go. Now ABS light coming up on the screen and some other one I can't figure out what it means...lol damm any clues of what could be? how could the battery have died like this?

Have you actually taken the car for a run? I see you got it started and then left it idleing, but if the battery is really flat, getting the alternator working harder by having the engine at a higher speed than idle should get some power into the battery.

If still no luck, then on to battery testing etc, but I'm not surprised you are getting messages about charging fault etc if it's just not had a chance to charge it properly yet.

Unfortunately modern cars just don't seem to cope being left unused for weeks on end as they drain batteries far more than older 'simpler' cars. I have a CTEK conditioner on my wife's car as that doesn't get much use - as other's have said, it's definitely worth the money getting one if you leave the car regularly as will save you buying new batteries.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Ibz82

I not 100% on coding the like for like battery. I'm sure Sam Makkan could clear this up for us.

Guys
Here is how I see
1- If your battery comes with 3 years warranty (same Ah as you currently have) and you do not have the coder near to you, you are safe for next 3 years. What after the 3 years?
BMW batteries last 5-6 years and there is a good reason for it.
2- If your battery has different Ah, then you defo require coding. If its of less Ah, then there is a risk of fire. If its of higher Ah, then its not getting fully charged. You are wasting the extra potential of the new battery.

The coding is done at three level for the new batteries.
1- If the battery has different Ah, you will have to change it in the car settings and inform it about the new capacity so car accomodates that. You will have to change it in a way so dealer also knows if it goes to the dealer.
2- If its AGM, then you will have to add that to the car. Coding is different for both types of the batteries.
3- Lastly, when you change the battery, you will have to tell the car that it has been changed. All the charging / sleeping patterns get reset and computer learns the standing voltage on the new battery in next 2-3 days before it adapts the new pattern. That is to make sure that battery should not get more than what it requires when it is charging.

HTH.

PS: AGM batteries are better than standard batteries.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Ibz82

I not 100% on coding the like for like battery. I'm sure Sam Makkan could clear this up for us.

IF I am not wrong and not mixing you with another person, I have done three level coding on your car as well.

[hmpmarketing]

Originally Posted by MrBen

Have you actually taken the car for a run? I see you got it started and then left it idleing, but if the battery is really flat, getting the alternator working harder by having the engine at a higher speed than idle should get some power into the battery.

If still no luck, then on to battery testing etc, but I'm not surprised you are getting messages about charging fault etc if it's just not had a chance to charge it properly yet.

Unfortunately modern cars just don't seem to cope being left unused for weeks on end as they drain batteries far more than older 'simpler' cars. I have a CTEK conditioner on my wife's car as that doesn't get much use - as other's have said, it's definitely worth the money getting one if you leave the car regularly as will save you buying new batteries.

Didn't drive the car around at all.I suppose I have to drive quite a lot in order to get it charged? Easier with the Charger?

I will try to go get the charger this afternoon but Im afraid I have to spend over £100 for a charger and the battery end up being faulty :-(

[Estoril Sport]

I had a similar problem where the car had not been driven for some considerable time.

I bought BMW/CTECK charger for about £65 from the BMW dealer (10% off being a forum member) then I also bought the CTECK lead-mounted comfort indicator to make it much easer to charge the battery so I can lock the car and still charge the battery. (I bought some thin two wire cable ( B&Q) and made an extension cable, the advantage that the wire is thin enough to pass through the gap between the boot and the bumper).

http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/ctek-56380.php fortunately there is a little recess behind the removable cover where I could mount the socket. Now its really easy to charge my car battery now. The socket even identifies the condition of the battery



All pack away.


Much cheaper than buying a new battery

[hmpmarketing]

Originally Posted by Estoril Sport

I had a similar problem where the car had not been driven for some considerable time.

I bought BMW/CTECK charger for about £65 from the BMW dealer (10% off being a forum member) then I also bought the CTECK lead-mounted comfort indicator to make it much easer to charge the battery so I can lock the car and still charge the battery. (I bought some thin two wire cable ( B&Q) and made an extension cable, the advantage that the wire is thin enough to pass through the gap between the boot and the bumper).

http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/ctek-56380.php fortunately there is a little recess behind the removable cover where I could mount the socket. Now its really easy to charge my car battery now. The socket even identifies the condition of the battery


Much cheaper than buying a new battery

Man thats a nice setup :-)

[Ibz82]

Originally Posted by makkan00

IF I am not wrong and not mixing you with another person, I have done three level coding on your car as well.

That's me thanks again

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Ibz82

That's me thanks again

Well now you know what has been done on your car as a part of battery change.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Estoril Sport

I had a similar problem where the car had not been driven for some considerable time.

I bought BMW/CTECK charger for about £65 from the BMW dealer (10% off being a forum member) then I also bought the CTECK lead-mounted comfort indicator to make it much easer to charge the battery so I can lock the car and still charge the battery. (I bought some thin two wire cable ( B&Q) and made an extension cable, the advantage that the wire is thin enough to pass through the gap between the boot and the bumper).

http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/ctek-56380.php fortunately there is a little recess behind the removable cover where I could mount the socket. Now its really easy to charge my car battery now. The socket even identifies the condition of the battery



Much cheaper than buying a new battery

My ignorance but what does this charger do?
What is the mechanism involved? Does the charger get charged when car is running and later charge the battery? If that is the case and car is parked for some considerable time, how does it work?

Also looking at amazon, there are these chargers

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&k...l_9pjp1voy4n_b

How do we know which one is for bmw?

Thanks.

[Estoril Sport]

Originally Posted by makkan00

My ignorance but what does this charger do?
What is the mechanism involved? Does the charger get charged when car is running and later charge the battery? If that is the case and car is parked for some considerable time, how does it work?

Also looking at amazon, there are these chargers

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&k...l_9pjp1voy4n_b

How do we know which one is for bmw?

Thanks.

The charger I bought from BMW is the same model as this CTEK MXS 5.0T Battery Charger but branded as BMW. http://www.amazon.co.uk/BMW-Genuine-.../dp/B00AHDMB7A Its a 8 stage trickle charger. You should not run the car with the charger connected. The socket is connected directly to the battery, I can connect it up via the plug and socket and lock the car. The mains wire is thin enough to fit in between the gap of the boot and the bumper. It can take about 6 hours to charge up however it depends how low is your batter of charge.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by Estoril Sport

The charger I bought from BMW is the same model as this CTEK MXS 5.0T Battery Charger but branded as BMW. http://www.bmw.co.uk/en_GB/topics/ow...ryId=2384.html (the photo is of the continental version). I believe its a trickle charger. You should not run the car with the charger connected. The socket is connected directly to the battery, I can connect it up via the plug and socket and lock the car the mains wire is thin enough to fit in the gap between the boot and the bumper. I can take about 6 hours to charge up however it depends how low is your batter of charge.

Thanks.
Good to know. I recently changed my battery after CIC retrofit. So lets hope I do not need it.

[hmpmarketing]

Ok my saga with the battery hasn't ended.

I followed this procedure, charged the battery during the weekend (from around 10pm to morning so around 7/8 hours 3 times this procedure)

reading 10.56v -> charge around 7/8 hours using 5A -> reading then 12.55v
Unplugged during the day
reading 12.06v -> charge around 7/8 hours using 5A -> reading then 13.15v
Unplugged during the day
reading 12.31v -> charge around 7/8 hours using 5A -> reading then 13.75v
Unplugged during the day
reading 12.31v -> charge around 7/8 hours using 5A -> reading current is 13.75v

Left it to charge until I read 14.00v; plugged the battery to the car, everything seems to be working, no "charging fault" messages or anything, alarm working /radio/CIC , however, pressing the start/stop button the only think i hear is a "click" sound coming from the engine and car won't start, I then get a "!" on the dashboard. Removing the key, and re-inserting it and trying to start again will produce the same result. Read with the multimeter again, battery plugged to car reads 12.06v

What else could it be?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by hmpmarketing

Left it to charge until I read 14.00v; plugged the battery to the car, everything seems to be working, no "charging fault" messages or anything, alarm working /radio/CIC , however, pressing the start/stop button the only think i hear is a "click" sound coming from the engine and car won't start, I then get a "!" on the dashboard. Removing the key, and re-inserting it and trying to start again will produce the same result. Read with the multimeter again, battery plugged to car reads 12.06v

What else could it be?

Jump start your car. If your car starts, then fine.
If not, then you need somebody who has inpa to reset the codes. If the battery is low and you try to crank it few times with low battery, it put your car on protective mode.


12.06V does not look bad but you should take the readings of the battery when it is on the car and not when the battery is taken out of the car.