[nirvanabob]

Hi everybody,
I drive an bmw 335i e90 2007 production 2006 and I have a problem with my transmission, rough shift, jerk from 2nd to 1st, and harsh downshift. I already spend a lot of money to install the zip kit for the valve body, I also changed fluid pan and filter, reset the adaptation but the issue still there! If anybody know how to fix the issue or has the same problem let me know! Thanks

[Nitrousbird]

Let out the clutch slower.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by Nitrousbird

Let out the clutch slower.

He talks about the "fluid pan and filter," so it's likely an auto.

OP does it rough shift in all gears up and down? Tell us some more symptoms.

[aleks001]

Originally Posted by nirvanabob

Hi everybody,
I drive an bmw 335i e90 2007 production 2006 and I have a problem with my transmission, rough shift, jerk from 2nd to 1st, and harsh downshift. I already spend a lot of money to install the zip kit for the valve body, I also changed fluid pan and filter, reset the adaptation but the issue still there! If anybody know how to fix the issue or has the same problem let me know! Thanks

There are two possible scenarios.

1. Transmission under-filled. This happened to me and use to get the jerk from 2nd to 1st when at a stand still. What happens is that you fill your transmission and it starts to leak and you think it's enough fluid because that's BMW procedure, but it actually cant fit a bit more. I came back a week later, raised the car again, made sure temperature was at 30 degress (centigrade) and managed to fill in an extra 500-750ml's.

2. Transmission solenoids need replacing.

[nirvanabob]

Thanks for the answer to all of you guys!
So, it happens when it's cold,warm and hot!
Upshift is not so bad, 2nd to 3rd is rough, 5th to 4th bangs it's like somebody hates you in the back, and 2nd to 1st jolts too! The fluid is brand new but it's not the oem, is Fuchs Titan 3353 ATF! My mechanic has checked more than one time the fluid level and he said it's ok! If somebody has the same car as mine with same problem let me know the best way to fix it! I also talked to zigsman and he said that it seems the same issue that he used to had, he told me to replace the solenoid!

[stewey]

Make sure you have the latest EGS software, top up the fluid, take it to BMW for a diagnosis, take it to a transmission shop. Maybe you'll get lucky and hit on a fix, but it sounds like you might need a transmission rebuild. I hope that's not the case!

[Nitrousbird]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

He talks about the "fluid pan and filter," so it's likely an auto

I know.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Originally Posted by nirvanabob

The fluid is brand new but it's not the oem, is Fuchs Titan 3353 ATF!

Filling in fluid with wrong specs is like installing a pinion with wrong size.
Drain and refill with ZF fluid at least 3-4 times to get the most of the Fuchs crap out.

Bob, you don't want to send your $6000 tranny to nirvana in favor to save $100 for fluid

[stewey]

Sounds like the problem existed before the fluid change. But, if the new fluid is not correct for the trans, then the fluid change should definitely be redone. Half of the fluid will be in the torque converter and won't come out with a drain and refill, so you might want to consider a flush or just multiple drain and refills to get the incorrect fluid out. Be aware that some people claim a flush is not good on high mileage transmissions particularly if they haven't seen regular fluid changes.

Edit: oops I see you already mentioned multiple fluid changes. Sorry!

[Mathew87]

You will most likely need to change the selenoids and replace the fluid with the original Lifeguard stuff. There are a few other threads on this forum pointing to the selenoid replacement as the only cure for hard upshifts / downshifts.

It seems that as they age (selenoids) they develop a certain lag in operation and no longer open / close the valves in the mechatronic unit in a progressive manner as they should, but more like in an on / off sort of way. This produces the hard shifting. I have similar but lighter symptoms in my car as well so I'm planning to replace the selenoid kit somewhere this year. It retails for anywhere between $500-$700. Add in the original fluid, various gasqets and filter + labour at a shop, and you're looking at over $1000 spent. But in the end it should be worth it.

[nirvanabob]

Thanks again to everybody,
This week I'm going to check if i have the latest software in the egs, i can't do the alpina flash 'cause my car is 2006 production!
My mechanic installed the zip kit from sonnax with new o-ring, seals, new separator plate for the mechatronic valve body, he changed/flushed the fluid last time and i already had the problem from before! Now I'm trying to figure out what to do for next step, but i don't wanna waste more money! I think the next step is to change all the solenoids and fill up the transmission with the proper fluid (OEM)!

[Mathew87]

Don't forget to reset the transmission adaptation values after changing the selenoids. I also heard that driving without "flooring it" in the first 200-300 miles after selenoid replacement also helps.

[nirvanabob]

There is anybody with exactly the same problem and same car (Bmw 335i e90 2007) and find the cure?

[Eckohwd]

Update on this fix?

[trotsky]

I had some harsh shifts on my 335i, installed XHP stage 3 and now they are totally gone, and the car shifts so much better/faster.

[labrador]

The fluid your mechanic used looks equivalent to Dexron III, so that definitely is the wrong fluid for E90 ZF.
AFAIK you need ZF Lifeguard 6.

And yes probably the solenoids. But do the fluid first as it is cheaper, and who knows it might solve it. D-III is just way off.

[Big Mexican Women]

Originally Posted by kiel_dafo_kenyg_as

Filling in fluid with wrong specs is like installing a pinion with wrong size.
Drain and refill with ZF fluid at least 3-4 times to get the most of the Fuchs crap out.

Bob, you don't want to send your $6000 tranny to nirvana in favor to save $100 for fluid

waste of time, fluid and money. the OP needs new shift solenoids, which will require him to add new fluid anyways.

[smass]

Originally Posted by Big Mexican Women

waste of time, fluid and money. the OP needs new shift solenoids, which will require him to add new fluid anyways.

+1. This is a messy job and not worth trying to save $300. I have never seen a post where changing the fluid fixed a bump. New fluid will sometimes smooth things out a small amount. New solenoids makes it shift like new.

[Big Mexican Women]

Originally Posted by smassey321

+1. This is a messy job and not worth trying to save $300. I have never seen a post where changing the fluid fixed a bump. New fluid will sometimes smooth things out a small amount. New solenoids makes it shift like new.

Yea, I'm gonna need to get new solenoids in my F10. it slips and shifts rough into third gear when the engine is cold or hot. should I also get a new valvebody?

[smass]

Is F10 an 8 speed? There is not much info on those yet. If 6, ZF will say change solenoids first as they go bad much more often than valve body.

[BMW1984N55]

I have an 8 speed 535i year 2012 with 50k miles. It has terrible downshifts, all shifts under 25 mph are not smooth. coming to a stop i almost feel as if I am being rear ended as it POPS into first gear. When taking off from a stop or near stop it will wait and stutter then finally engage then take off like a bat out of hell. There is no smooth driving in stop and go traffic.

Anyways I'm about to bring the car in and what i want done is new solenoids, maybe some new adapter seals (if necessary).

The problem is I am not sure there are solenoids available for the 8 speed, please somebody let me know if you know anything about it.