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      05-04-2016, 07:47 AM   #1
Nordic335M3
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2010 N54 -> 2007 N54 swap

Hi Guys

Looking at swapping my 2007 N54 with a low milage N54 from a 2010 model.

Would My ECU be compatible with that newer engine?
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      05-04-2016, 09:17 AM   #2
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Fundguy1 just did it, so I'd say yeah...
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      05-04-2016, 11:13 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastMode335i View Post
Fundguy1 just did it, so I'd say yeah...
So you kept your original ECU and it plugged straight into the new engine?..
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      05-04-2016, 02:41 PM   #4
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anybody have links for a DIY on engine removal, its a big job and I won´t be doing it by myself, but I would like to know as much as possible beforehand.

I have read injectors will have to be coded after install?

also what would people recommend I do before installing ?..
I will be doing inlets for sure..
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      05-05-2016, 04:58 AM   #5
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      05-07-2016, 04:39 PM   #6
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I did it back in December and at the time there were no DIY guides. Here's the sequence I recommend:
-Disconnect battery
-Drain oil and coolant
-Remove all under-body plastic guards and wheel well liners
-Remove air intake boxes and tubes
-Remove front bumper
-Break air conditioning fittings at condenser
-Remove front end assembly entirely (not as much work as it sounds like). You will have to disconnect power steering fittings and separate oil cooler assembly from the front end assembly. You will also need to disconnect the 2x pipes going into the intercooler.
-Radiator will be left dangling. Disconnect all associated hoses.
-Remove 2x angled tube braces at top of engine bay
-Remove microfilmer housing and left/right covers
-Remove valve cover
-Remove intake manifold/throttle body and disconnect all associated wiring from throttle body
-At bottom of engine, remove 4x nuts holding the downpipes tubes to the rest of the exhaust system
-There is also a bracket holding the downpipes tubes onto the transmission, remove that, too. That's a tough one to get at.

Next comes disassembling the wiring. All the engine wires end up in the rear passenger corner of the engine bay. When you start studying it, you'll realize there are three primary harnesses. I recommend keeping the "cylinder head harness" with the car, and the "engine harness" with the engine. You'll have to get in there to study it and make your own call.

-Remove the ground strap on the driver's side engine mount.
-Unbolt the 4x bolts fastening the engine mounts to the subframe (external torx bolts).
-Attach your engine hoist to the engine
-Support transmission with floor jack
-Remove all the bell housing bolts using extensions and universal joints. You will also remove the starter in this step.
-Start working the engine out of the engine bay. It's a tight fit. Work slowly so you don't damage anything by missing a wire/hose/bolt.

This was pretty quick and dirty so correct me if I missed anything.
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      05-13-2016, 04:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berga View Post
I did it back in December and at the time there were no DIY guides. Here's the sequence I recommend:
-Disconnect battery
-Drain oil and coolant
-Remove all under-body plastic guards and wheel well liners
-Remove air intake boxes and tubes
-Remove front bumper
-Break air conditioning fittings at condenser
-Remove front end assembly entirely (not as much work as it sounds like). You will have to disconnect power steering fittings and separate oil cooler assembly from the front end assembly. You will also need to disconnect the 2x pipes going into the intercooler.
-Radiator will be left dangling. Disconnect all associated hoses.
-Remove 2x angled tube braces at top of engine bay
-Remove microfilmer housing and left/right covers
-Remove valve cover
-Remove intake manifold/throttle body and disconnect all associated wiring from throttle body
-At bottom of engine, remove 4x nuts holding the downpipes tubes to the rest of the exhaust system
-There is also a bracket holding the downpipes tubes onto the transmission, remove that, too. That's a tough one to get at.

Next comes disassembling the wiring. All the engine wires end up in the rear passenger corner of the engine bay. When you start studying it, you'll realize there are three primary harnesses. I recommend keeping the "cylinder head harness" with the car, and the "engine harness" with the engine. You'll have to get in there to study it and make your own call.

-Remove the ground strap on the driver's side engine mount.
-Unbolt the 4x bolts fastening the engine mounts to the subframe (external torx bolts).
-Attach your engine hoist to the engine
-Support transmission with floor jack
-Remove all the bell housing bolts using extensions and universal joints. You will also remove the starter in this step.
-Start working the engine out of the engine bay. It's a tight fit. Work slowly so you don't damage anything by missing a wire/hose/bolt.

This was pretty quick and dirty so correct me if I missed anything.
thanks man.. appriciate your help
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