[Mr. 5]

I want to get a good set of rotors for my car because my rotors are warped and I've already resurfaced my rotors once.
I haven't seen anyone talk about the powerslot cryo rotors.
I've only seen talk about the DBA rotors.

How are the powerslots?
Anyone?

[Mr. 5]

I know this thread wasn't out long, but I needed some rotors.
I contacted powerslot and they never got back with me so I went with the go to, which was the DBA 4000 series rotors.
I've heard really good things about them, so I'll let you guys know.

[Gen_E92]

how about some Stoptech rotors?

[s2kdagjd]

i had powerslots on my previous cars and from what i remember they are manufactured by Brembo....it had Brembo stamped on the rotors.

they were pretty good from what i remember.

[JB991]

Originally Posted by Gen_E92

how about some Stoptech rotors?

Does stoptech make replacement rotors for an E90-93 application? Are they only blanks, or slotted/ drilled as well?

[T7R_Sky]

Subscribed. Let us know how they work out.

[bimmer_335]

check these out... http://www.cquence.net/

I also have used r1concepts on my g35... they are nice rotors for decent price.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I know this thread wasn't out long, but I needed some rotors.
I contacted powerslot and they never got back with me so I went with the go to, which was the DBA 4000 series rotors.
I've heard really good things about them, so I'll let you guys know.

Well, I canceled my order for the DBA rotors because the more I searched, the more I kept hearing about them being noisy.
So, I am back in the market.

Originally Posted by bimmer_335

check these out... http://www.cquence.net/

I also have used r1concepts on my g35... they are nice rotors for decent price.

Those rotors look outstanding!

[Blk07335i]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Well, I canceled my order for the DBA rotors because the more I searched, the more I kept hearing about them being noisy.
So, I am back in the market.



Those rotors look outstanding!

Nice price too. I think I paid $350 or so just for the DBA front rotors.

[BOOSTFTW]

I have powerslot rotors on my e36 m3 and from my experience they performed better than the brembo/stoptech rotors I had previously. I highly recommend them.

[therealm3]

What’s wrong with just getting another set of original BMW rotors? They are pretty damn good. Was the warping from the trip to Laguna or just street use? And are you sure its actual warpage or just uneven pad deposits? I ask cause my E30 M3 (track/weekend car) will get what feels like warped rotors after some time on the street with only light/moderate braking. I don’t run the same pads as you (assuming they are still the cool carbons) but a similar type of semi track/street pad. When it happens, I need to do several hard, higher speed stops in a row to wear off the previous pad deposits to get it evened out again.

The flip side is if it did happen from heat at the track, you may just want to invest in a ducting kit for track use. (again E30 experience not E90, but the principles apply) On the M3 I run the kit from Bimmerworld which has ducts for the bumper, hoses, and then a custom hat that bolts to the hub and channels the air from the duct/hose right into the vanes of the rotor. Very effective. On colder days I have to tape off most of the duct as the brakes get over cooled. I know a lot of club racers and most run factory rotors and race pads and just use ducting. I warped a few sets of rotors on track before I went with the duct set.

[Mr. 5]

I appreciate the inputs but I know they're warped.
They started to warp before I went to the track, but the track made it way worse.

Here's my thinking...
I had the Rotora caliper kit on the car for a while with the OEM rotors.
The Rotora calipers use pads that are slimmer than the OEM calipers so there is a much bigger ring (closest to the hub) that is not used.
When I went back to OEM calipers, I needed to get the rotors resurfaced (obviously) since the inner part of the rotors was unused.
I believe that because the inner part of the rotor was unused for such a long time, the strength of the inner part was different than the outer part that was being used all the time.
The reason why I'm talking about all of this is because I can still see the inner ring when the rotors are hot.
The heat looks to not be going through the rotor uniformly.

Originally Posted by therealm3

What’s wrong with just getting another set of original BMW rotors? They are pretty damn good. Was the warping from the trip to Laguna or just street use? And are you sure its actual warpage or just uneven pad deposits? I ask cause my E30 M3 (track/weekend car) will get what feels like warped rotors after some time on the street with only light/moderate braking. I don’t run the same pads as you (assuming they are still the cool carbons) but a similar type of semi track/street pad. When it happens, I need to do several hard, higher speed stops in a row to wear off the previous pad deposits to get it evened out again.

The flip side is if it did happen from heat at the track, you may just want to invest in a ducting kit for track use. (again E30 experience not E90, but the principles apply) On the M3 I run the kit from Bimmerworld which has ducts for the bumper, hoses, and then a custom hat that bolts to the hub and channels the air from the duct/hose right into the vanes of the rotor. Very effective. On colder days I have to tape off most of the duct as the brakes get over cooled. I know a lot of club racers and most run factory rotors and race pads and just use ducting. I warped a few sets of rotors on track before I went with the duct set.

[therealm3]

Ah, interesting. Well, the heat "should" have transferred through the rotor even if that spot was not being used, and metallurgy of the rotor did not change through use, so I don' t think the strength changed any significant amount. I'd be willing to bet the resurfacing did not cut deep enough to completely clean up the faces of the rotors and that's why you still see the ring there. BMW Rotors are spec’d almost to the minimum when you get them new, so most shops will refuse to resurface them or take very little off if they do.

I have a feeling the warpage is a perfect storm of sorts: aggressive pads, aggressive driving, and most importantly machined rotors that were thinner than spec. the combo of all three caused the heat from the track to not dissipate effectively and they warped. (not a professional mechanic but I did spend the night at a holiday in express last night).

In all seriousness though, I bet a new set of Original rotors would solve the problem and also be very effective long term with your pad choice. Just a bit more air when on the track to keep em cool is all you should need after they bed into the new rotors.

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I appreciate the inputs but I know they're warped.
They started to warp before I went to the track, but the track made it way worse.

Here's my thinking...
I had the Rotora caliper kit on the car for a while with the OEM rotors.
The Rotora calipers use pads that are slimmer than the OEM calipers so there is a much bigger ring (closest to the hub) that is not used.
When I went back to OEM calipers, I needed to get the rotors resurfaced (obviously) since the inner part of the rotors was unused.
I believe that because the inner part of the rotor was unused for such a long time, the strength of the inner part was different than the outer part that was being used all the time.
The reason why I'm talking about all of this is because I can still see the inner ring when the rotors are hot.
The heat looks to not be going through the rotor uniformly.

[wuufer001]

i'm in market too for bigger rotors as oem's are too small and my wheels are showing them too much