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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > New to m57, need help



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      02-21-2024, 02:12 PM   #1
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New to m57, need help

I just purchased my first diesel vehicle, which has the m57 engine. test drove the car for almost an hour before purchasing, and everything went well. PO had replaced tons of known failure points, turbos included. 45 mins into my 2 hour drive home, the car randomly redlined, almost as if someone were to force downshift it into 3rd gear at 85mph. I slapped it into neutral and when I got onto the shoulder, the vehicle shut off. It will run for only 5-10 seconds before stalling out, and those few seconds are really rough. Codes thrown were for MAF and fuel filter heater. Swapped maf with a buddy and it seemed to help a bit but still misfiring and stalling out. PO replaced maf with a bosch one and given that the car is still misfiring I have no idea where to start. Any info helps!
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      02-22-2024, 11:35 AM   #2
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Hmmm this is quite a conundrum. Almost sounds ECU/DDE related.
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      02-22-2024, 12:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90Noobie View Post
Hmmm this is quite a conundrum. Almost sounds ECU/DDE related.
Could be, I’m leaning towards a transmission malfunction causing engine hardware failure
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      02-23-2024, 11:32 AM   #4
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Randomly redlining seems like a runaway condition due to oil being sucked into the intake.. Check your oil level.

Also, anytime you swap a MAF you need to reset adaptations.
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      02-26-2024, 05:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnxguy View Post
Randomly redlining seems like a runaway condition due to oil being sucked into the intake.. Check your oil level.

Also, anytime you swap a MAF you need to reset adaptations.
It didn’t stay at redline, will reset adaptations when I get home. It was almost as if the car just dropped into a low gear and then caused other problems.
Also, it ran for almost a minute today while I was trying some diag, definitely had white smoke out the tailpipe, but upon testing injector return lines all seemed normal. Will upload a video of a live log from a few days ago showing rail pressure shortly.
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      02-29-2024, 01:53 AM   #6
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Rocker cover gasket.. Replace with a new one. Causes whole load of issues due to the Rocker Cover being part of the CCV system on the M47/57 engines.
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      02-29-2024, 11:33 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by P14kle View Post
Rocker cover gasket.. Replace with a new one. Causes whole load of issues due to the Rocker Cover being part of the CCV system on the M47/57 engines.
It’s new :/
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      02-29-2024, 11:49 PM   #8
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Got the car to stay on for longer than a minute today and this is what I saw
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      03-01-2024, 02:52 PM   #9
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Smooth running codes on cylinders 2 and 4. Has CBU cleaning ever been on this vehicle?
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      03-01-2024, 03:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lnxguy View Post
Smooth running codes on cylinders 2 and 4. Has CBU cleaning ever been on this vehicle?
Yup. PO did it recently
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      03-01-2024, 03:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemansbluen54 View Post
Got the car to stay on for longer than a minute today and this is what I saw
Does any one know what rider and jogger are referring to
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      03-05-2024, 10:21 PM   #12
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Replaced glow plug control module and glow plugs and went back a step. Car no longer stays on under its own power and is back to stalling out within 10 seconds. One this was I did reinstall the original mass airflow sensor as well as reset adaptations. The car once again had low battery but I did try replacing the alternator and the battery is new. Only codes available are an awd enabled code and a steering angle sensor code. Don’t want to throw parts at it so if anybody has any ideas as to how I can further diagnose the car please let me know.
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      03-11-2024, 12:46 PM   #13
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Update
Replaced injector (and coded it in) in cyl 4
Smoothness codes still in 2&4
Could 2&4 be compensating for a failed cyl 3 injector?

Did the test where you unplug injectors while the car was running and cylinder 4 was the only one that wouldn’t stall the car out. Reran the test and now it’s cyl 3 thats not stalling the car out, but the codes remain on 2&4.
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      03-16-2024, 03:22 PM   #14
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Lemans,
Delete all codes. Start and run for 10 seconds. shut off and pull codes. what are the codes now?
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      03-16-2024, 03:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomnavigator View Post
Lemans,
Delete all codes. Start and run for 10 seconds. shut off and pull codes. what are the codes now?
Still 2&4
Update: found metal shavings in oil
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      03-16-2024, 03:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemansbluen54 View Post
Still 2&4
Update: found metal shavings in oil
Sorry for your loss
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      03-16-2024, 03:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambohamilton View Post
Sorry for your loss
She made it 30 whole highway minutes into my ownership 😢
Any ideas where to start the tear down based on symptoms I’ve had? Wondering if I should pull head or check rod bearings first
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      03-16-2024, 05:00 PM   #18
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I'd go with rod bearings, but I really don't know.
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      03-18-2024, 02:09 AM   #19
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Hi, i have a project and I m putting an m57 into it, and I wish to make it twin turbo. What is required to make this engine twin turbo and what turbos do you recommend?
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      03-18-2024, 02:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurt042 View Post
Hi, i have a project and I m putting an m57 into it, and I wish to make it twin turbo. What is required to make this engine twin turbo and what turbos do you recommend?
Start your own thread.
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      03-21-2024, 01:49 PM   #21
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Got here too late to answer but i would tell you from post no1 that you had a runaway engine. Probably the turbos that they replaced were of a bad quality and not original. Check the turbos for play. This engine almost definitely burnt quite a bit oil before so if you just bought it, they should have known this for sure in my opinion. Very doubtful that it just grenaded without any prewarning signs.
Whole engine needs replacement now of course, probably injectors aswell.
I would not even try to restore this engine, this will probably have bad everything if you found oil shavings in the oil.
Probably easier to just get a salvage motor and do the timing chain along with all the seals and check the turbos for play before on salvaged engine...
If this kind of work makes sense of course in USA due to price of labor...
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      03-21-2024, 01:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barf View Post
Got here too late to answer but i would tell you from post no1 that you had a runaway engine. Probably the turbos that they replaced were of a bad quality and not original. Check the turbos for play. This engine almost definitely burnt quite a bit oil before so if you just bought it, they should have known this for sure in my opinion. Very doubtful that it just grenaded without any prewarning signs.
Whole engine needs replacement now of course, probably injectors aswell.
I would not even try to restore this engine, this will probably have bad everything if you found oil shavings in the oil.
Probably easier to just get a salvage motor and do the timing chain along with all the seals and check the turbos for play before on salvaged engine...
If this kind of work makes sense of course in USA due to price of labor...
Not too late! I’ve been so busy with work i haven’t had any time to mess with it. Will check on the turbos condition but they are oem.
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