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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Ask a Professional Detailer...
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08-11-2008, 01:53 PM | #573 |
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wow this is a awesome thread! thanks for taking the time to do this!!
i have a few questions. i am using a sonus wool washing mit to wash my car, along with a two bucket system, i am also using chemical guys ultra plush and soft MF to dry my car. http://www.chemicalguys.com/530_xl_M...mic_1000_3.htm is wavvle weave better then this is dry my car off, i feel as if wavvle weave might too hard? also as of right now, i just finished using TQ ICE car wash and am using NXT car wash for now, what other shampoo can i use to wash my car. just for a history for my car, its sapphire black, in pretty good condition, couple swirls from 3 times of going in the car wash, but lightly nothing real bad. its garage kept and washed 1-2 times a week. its about a year old with 10k or more on the dial. also i have never put ,claybar, polish, wax or sealant of any kind on it, but my bmw dealer did do somewhat of a detail on it, not sure how that worked maybe a polish and wax? what is the best wash to use in my condition? i also use FK1 #425 when im done with the wash to top it off. |
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08-11-2008, 01:56 PM | #574 |
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Nice chart, but WHY would I want more/less RPM/OPMs?
I noticed that as the product broke down, it got smoother and I normally stopped when it got to the point of being just a slight haze on the surface (or my back was aching from bending over teh hood that way) It wasn't necessarily dusting off, but working it longer made it a lot easier to wipe off. |
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08-12-2008, 02:45 PM | #576 |
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Question... I am going to do a full force detail on my car tomorrow. I have been using different products, but now I have newr stuff and a pc. Should I be fine doing the usual wash and clay as far as removing everything that is on there, or should I wash with dawn or something along those lines? Thanks!
Tim
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08-13-2008, 08:34 AM | #577 | ||||
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To remove swirls, you're basically talking about thoroughly polishing your paint. I'd highly recommend looking into the Menzerna line of polishes to tackle this. Depending on how deep the imperfections are will determine how aggressive of a polish / pad combo you'll need to rid them. Most cars can benefit from a 2 step polishing combo. I'd suggest looking at the following as a starting point: - Intensive Polish or Super Intensive Polish using orange light cutting pads - Final Polish II or PO106FF using white polishing pads For leatherette, I like to keep it simple. I've been recommending Poorboy's Leather Stuff because it's a great 1 step product that cleans, lightly conditions and UV protects. To top it off, it has a great leather scent to boot. For removing a light dusting, I don't recommend Cali Dusters. We had the option to sell them, but I just don't feel comfortable recommending them to our customers. When used improperly, they can create swirls, scratches, etc. I turn to a plush microfiber towel along with a quality quick detailer to remove a light dusting. The lubrication from the quick detailer helps minimize adding imperfections to your paint. For light cleanings I usually turn to Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe, but there are other good options as well. Quote:
Wash wise, depends on what you're looking for. Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II is an amazing value for routine maintenance washes. Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds is also a great shampoo. You definitely want to look into protecting your paint with a quality sealant and/or wax. Whatever the dealership applied is definitely done protecting after a year. If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Quote:
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08-13-2008, 11:37 AM | #578 |
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Plastic lens covers? I went ahead and hit the little third brake light cover on my roof over the weekend with 106ff/orange, and it seemed pretty smooth and shiny. So I moved on to the rear covers. There were a few scratches, and it cleaned them up and seemed to remain smooth. But those are big red monstrosities, not sure I want to polish the clears on the headlights or not.
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08-14-2008, 01:12 AM | #579 | |
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It's been about 7 months since my last claying of my older car, and it needs it. Of course my standards are a bit higher now than they were a year ago when I first became a detailing 'nut'... |
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08-16-2008, 08:51 AM | #580 | ||
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Small benefits of removing the wax before starting any of the process is the steps you are doing are working on the paint right away, rather than wearing through the wax and sealant, then your paint. How big of an impact does it have? I'm not sure. Lately, I've been stripping my protection on full details by using a heavy concentration of Citrus Wash & Gloss shampoo. It's easy and it is during the regular wash step. George |
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08-16-2008, 10:04 AM | #581 |
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Is the idea that the clay will work better on a surface where all sealant/wax has first been removed? If you believe so, I'll use the appropriate solution Citrius Wash & Gloss only before claying. I'm happy w/ Super Slick & Suds for routine washing.
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08-17-2008, 06:03 PM | #582 |
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Hey george, after i'm done polishing the car, all i have to do is wipe down the car with a clean MF towel and then i can get on with waxing right?
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08-18-2008, 05:59 AM | #583 | |
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It IS fixed... I just ordered some stuff today and there was an option for APO shipping. Thanks for hooking up us guys overseas! Hopefully it gets here fast. Chuck D |
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08-18-2008, 11:47 AM | #584 |
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So, if I spent about 1.5 hours with glaze on a scratched section, then SIP/orange and 106ff/white and did just the driver's rear quarter and the trunk, did I spend enough time?
I did the hand in the bag on the trunk lid and couldn't feel ANYTHING I also wandered around and hit just the scratches. Rosalinda is off the hook for those 4 inches on the passenger door, and I'm off the hook for those 6+ inches on the hood from the first time I tried to Z2 it Thanks George! |
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08-18-2008, 06:42 PM | #585 |
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George, if I plan on using 2 types of polish on my vehcile, i.e., orange/Menzerna SIP followed by white/Menzerna 106FF OR another option would be white/106FF followed by blue/PO85RD, what process do you suggest using to remove the polish in the first step, to prepare for the polish in the second step?
For example, I've finished w/ white/106FF, and have dried polish all over my vehicle. How do you recommend removing that before I begin polishing w/ the blue/85RD? Thanks. |
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08-19-2008, 08:53 AM | #586 |
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Should use a MF after each section (2x2?) you do. You can't see if you might need to do it again unless you wipe off the residue.
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08-19-2008, 09:18 AM | #587 | ||||||
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Citrus Wash & Gloss is a great product because normally, I'd give the car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol, but now I just wash with a stronger ratio of CW&G (2oz / gallon). Quote:
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08-19-2008, 10:37 AM | #588 |
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Black/blue pads: Say I've applied Z2, then wiped with MF. Do I dare just put the buffer pads on and "buff to a brilliant shine" or do I need something on the pad?
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08-19-2008, 01:15 PM | #589 |
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George,
Do you have anything that can help me with this? I washed my car yesterday and I noticed several small blacks dots/specks on my bumper. I tried to scrub them off with soap and water but they started smearing like it was blue ink. Do you guys think claying would remove this without smearing the blue all over my bumper or should I use a more abrasive liquid detergent? I use ZCS and I understand that I would have to reapply if I chose either method. Thanks! Attached Images |
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08-19-2008, 01:25 PM | #591 | |
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Only thing that catches me is, I’m currently using Zaino AIO to remove all traces of polish, and to prepare the surface for Z5 or Z2. Zaino claims AIO helps the Z5/Z2 sealants to bond. The alcohol mix would remove all traces of polish, but won’t create that bonding foundatioin that Zaino claims the AIO does. Is that worth including in the equation, or would you just go w/ the alcohol mix, and then straight to the sealant? And is that a 1-1 isopropyl alcohol to water mix? |
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08-19-2008, 05:37 PM | #593 | |
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08-19-2008, 06:21 PM | #594 | |
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