HVAC Blower Motor Replacement

explorer2 · 02-06-2013, 05:48 PM

I have been getting the cricket noise starting from my blower motor the past couple of days. Removal of the cabin filter revealed that the gasket was not properly reinstalled last time the dealer changed it. I was able to fix it by turning off recirc mode on the HVAC controls, and using a flashlight and a few drops of turbine oil I found a local hardware store the problem was solved. This is the oil I used:
http://www.laco.com/prod/43/zoom-spout-oiler.aspx
For those of you considering the WD-40 route I would highly recommend this. Costs about $2 and has an extendable spout to apply a few drops directly to the bearing, without coating the air box in oil.

waterchange · 02-07-2013, 06:14 PM

Just wanted to post a THANK YOU here too. Had a free afternoon so pulled out my blower motor, threw some silicon lubricant on it, confirmed the fan spun with power before putting it back together, and then connected the unit back. I now have heat/air again. Without this diy, I'd likely be paying the dealership a ton of money to fix this.

I couldn't figure out how to pull out the ductwork off so I also wrestled the motor in/out with it in place.

I do have a new blower motor in route (via ebay) but I can at least drive comfortably around until it gets here; I'll wait for this motor to croak again before putting the new one in. It's amazing how fogged up windshields can get w/o the fan.

YEM · 02-10-2013, 08:28 PM

Thank you SO much for this DIY. I decided to create a youtube video of my fix today. I can't believe no one else struggled with removing the ducts. I would have been done in 20 minutes, but I spent a long time struggling with the ducting. Anyhow, thanks again. PS - I read another post that said he left the ducting in. In retrospect, i think you can do that. Anyhow... here's my vid:

waterchange · 02-12-2013, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waterchange

Just wanted to post a THANK YOU here too. Had a free afternoon so pulled out my blower motor, threw some silicon lubricant on it, confirmed the fan spun with power before putting it back together, and then connected the unit back. I now have heat/air again. Without this diy, I'd likely be paying the dealership a ton of money to fix this.

I couldn't figure out how to pull out the ductwork off so I also wrestled the motor in/out with it in place.

I do have a new blower motor in route (via ebay) but I can at least drive comfortably around until it gets here; I'll wait for this motor to croak again before putting the new one in. It's amazing how fogged up windshields can get w/o the fan.

I decided to install my new blower motor since I had it and had time. Leaving the ductwork in, I was able to get the old motor out and new motor installed in under 20 minutes. Cleaned off the old but working blower motor and threw it on ebay to see if anyone will bite.

Agentphish · 02-25-2013, 03:07 PM

Did the Zoom Spout fix this morning. Worked like a charm. Hopefully it continues to last for years to come.

PhaseP · 02-26-2013, 09:43 AM

Have a 2006, and in the past, I had twice removed the blower motor, disassembled its bottom part so that I could access the lower part of the motor axle also. Cleaned, lubed/sprayed both upper and lower part of the axle, only to see it last a few months each time. Each time after a few months, first it starts chirping, then it stops all of a sudden, and this could happen when you really need it, like a cold morning drive when your windshield gets misty from inside humidity. So after my second cleaning temp fix failed, I bought a new motor. New one had a new part number, updated, although it looked exactly as the old one, don't know what they changed. It has been 2 years now since I changed it, no noise, no stopping so far. My point is, cleaning it up with oil is temporary fix, rust starts building up again, and if you let the car sit for a few days, the rust developed during that time is enough to bind the motor from spinning. Even a simple hand push makes it go spinning back again though. So if you keep a hex drive in your car that you can remove the air filter to reach in and give a spin to the motor when it stops, you would be good! But watch your fingers getting caught hit on the blades!

bavaddict · 03-12-2013, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by explorer2

I have been getting the cricket noise starting from my blower motor the past couple of days. Removal of the cabin filter revealed that the gasket was not properly reinstalled last time the dealer changed it. I was able to fix it by turning off recirc mode on the HVAC controls, and using a flashlight and a few drops of turbine oil I found a local hardware store the problem was solved. This is the oil I used:
http://www.laco.com/prod/43/zoom-spout-oiler.aspx
For those of you considering the WD-40 route I would highly recommend this. Costs about $2 and has an extendable spout to apply a few drops directly to the bearing, without coating the air box in oil.

Did you have to follow the DIY to disassemble the motor or you sprayed the lube from the air vent (under the cabin filter)?

Also what does re-circulate button have to do with this?

Being a noob I am trying to understand how to spray the motor exactly.

Thanks.

explorer2 · 03-12-2013, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bavaddict

Did you have to follow the DIY to disassemble the motor or you sprayed the lube from the air vent (under the cabin filter)?

Also what does re-circulate button have to do with this?

Being a noob I am trying to understand how to spray the motor exactly.

Thanks.

I just used the hose on the oil bottle stuck through the air intake under the cabin filter, with a flashlight you can just barely see the problem bearing. Turning re-circulate mode off on the climate control forces the flap behind the cabin filter to open, giving access to the blower motor.

bhmax16 · 03-15-2013, 06:05 PM

I'm just making a correction to this DIY. The OP said that removal of the unit was twisting counter-clockwise, but that is incorrect. The blower is removed by twisting clockwise (if you are on your back looking up at it) and reinstalls by twisting counter-clockwise. This is fresh in my head since I literally did this 10 minutes ago (sprayed the upper bearing with PB blaster to quiet it down). I have to smell PB blaster now for a few days, but it's better than listening to the racket the blower has been making on cold mornings here in the Northeast

Agentphish · 03-17-2013, 03:43 PM

That's why zoom spout is ideal. NO odor at all.

bavaddict · 03-30-2013, 01:52 PM

Hi All:

I can't seem to find at either of my Loews stores. But store suggested I use "DuPont Teflon Lubricant" which is odorless. I was going to use WD40 but instead was holding off for Zoom Spout which I can find anywhere locally because of the lingering smell issue.

What do you guys think about the Teflon silicone lubricant? Anyone tried this?

Thanks.

myachinbak · 04-08-2013, 08:05 AM

I replaced mine in about 20 mins. And no you don't have to take the duct work or glove box out:

Take the panel off (2 small Torx screws).
Disconnect (unplug) the light wire
Unclip the old motor with finger (behind at 10 oclock position)
Give the motor a twist (gravity will help loosen it and drop it)
Shimmy the motor out as you are pulling the plastic duct (towards the rear of the car) out of the way.
It will come out with wires and plastic duct pushed aside.
As its hanging freely disconnect the wires.
Transfer motor components from old to new motor (with same Torx screwdriver)
Make the same wire connections on the new motor
Shimmy the new motor back in by moving the wires and pulling duct out of the way. (Take your time and have patience. It will go in.)
I also used a piece of duct tape to hold wire harness out of the way on the install.
Make sure its flush and give it a twist to lock it in.
Plug the light wire in the panel
Replace the screws in the panel and your done.
Easy job.

DUI Elite · 04-23-2013, 07:14 PM

can anyone confirm the smell actually does go away? I just did the WD40 method from the passenger side of the microfilter cover

It was pretty hard to reach the lower part of the rusted shaft.

At any rate, I expected to smell the fumes from the WD40, and sure enough, did. But wondering if it actually does go away within a few days? Some UK guys claim the smell never goes away. Don't know who to believe.

I left it all disassembled in hopes of letting fresh air pull some of the fumes out. But we'll see tomorrow morning.

bavaddict · 04-23-2013, 07:22 PM

I used the Teflon product I posted few posts above and smell went away after my 1 hour short drive where I had fan running full blast. YMMV.

DUI Elite · 04-23-2013, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bavaddict

I used the Teflon product I posted few posts above and smell went away after my 1 hour short drive where I had fan running full blast. YMMV.

Gotcha.

Thanks for quick reply. I was going to do that tomorrow too. Run with windows open and have the fan on highest setting

Hisho335i · 07-01-2013, 06:56 PM

I have a 335i 2007 E90 and the inside blower is not working, with a multimeter there is no voltage coming to the motor or resistor (tried all setting high) checked all fuses. still no voltage coming on the Motor/resistor . Climate control panel all green lights and it functions normal . That happened after changing water pump/thermostat.
any ideas

Zasquatch · 08-12-2013, 08:42 AM

My HVAC stopped working suddenly.... Found this DIY and began troubleshooting. To my surprise, I found the input harness to the FSU complete fried and melted to the housing...

The ground wire was completely f***ed and melted the insulation back about 2", exposing corroded green copper wire. Talk about a fire hazard! Calling my crappy local dealer yeilded the response "we need to change the entire vehicle harness for big money". I called a farther away, excellent dealer, and they supplied me with part numbers for the harness housing an the terminals inside! I soldered in new wire, cleaned off the crispy terminals on the FSU, and to my amazement everything worked! The housing is still visibly charred but the circuit board apparently made it through the ordeal.

Here are the elusive part numbers for the harness and the two different gauges of wire connectors:

Harness housing: 61136925196
Large gauge connector: 61138377732
Small gauge connector: 61138377730

brutalsnax · 09-16-2013, 08:13 AM

My experience with cars is as follows. Checking oil, filling washer fluid, changing tires, banging on the dashboard and/or turning on/off car in attempting to resolve all other issues. I was able to follow these instructions and remove the blower motor...I'm assuming the reinstall would be just as easy. That's about as good of a testimonial that you can get regarding this DIY write up. Thank you.

Attached is what I found...can someone please explain what would cause this and if either part is worth salvaging? Will I have to replace the harness or will it work in that state? I'm guessing the electronic piece attached to the motor is garbage, but how would I know if the blower motor is functioning? I live in a medium sized city where the BMW dealership is really the only game in town for this and they have a great history (with me at least) of bending you over. Any help would be appreciated.

cawelcome · 09-16-2013, 09:16 AM

E90, 2006 325i. Don't know much about cars. Here is my issue. Blower fan shuts off for one second every once in a while (after 2-3 minutes or so) then comes on. It doesn't matter what fan speed is set. Happens when AC is running too. What could be the issue?

spyder13b · 04-07-2014, 09:10 AM

'06 325xi, 145K miles
Just replaced the blower motor over the weekend. Mine would occassionally make a humming noise on the high settings (especially defrost), but other times it seemed normal. It finally decided one day to just stop working.
I wasn't sure if the motor was completely gone, so I tested for power going to the motor (from the 2 tabs on the FSU, after you remove the motor connector). On medium setting, it was ~4V and on the highest setting it was ~8V. I was sure the motor was bad after testing this.... I thought this might be helpful for anyone who wants to test this before they order the motor......
Replacement was easy, and I wish I had come across the instructions from ENTITY before I did it! I bought the replacement motor from RockAuto, and it was $75.79, not including shipping. It was made by TYC. The OEM motor seems to have a rubber insulator built in to it (you can see the green lines on photos in previous posts - I believe this rubber material encases the motor inside the black housing). The replacement I bought didn't have this, but I don't think it's any noisier than the OEM. What I did notice was that the blower fan blade/cage was different, and actually covered the motor (so it might prevent water from dripping directly on to the motor?). With the OEM, there were openings in the cage, so if water were to drip in, it could go directly on to the motor. I wish I had taken some photos of this to post. If I run in to any issues with the motor, I'll be sure to reply to this post to let you guys know.
I did find that the axle on the old motor was rusty, so I'm pretty sure that I have the water leak from the cabin air filter housing. I also noticed water stains on the sound-deadening material above the panel. I'll be looking in to that this weekend....

sterz85 · 04-08-2014, 08:24 AM

So I found this DIY also from Pelican Parts. The question I have is which parts will I need? Reading the Pelican parts required, it lists the blower motor, blower motor resistor (final stage).

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech..._Replacing.htm

Blower motor
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2

Blower motor resistor
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9-265-892-M262

When you guys replaced your blower, which part did you buy?

joro2077 · 04-15-2014, 12:05 PM

Sterz85 you only need blower motor if yours is noisy. I also bought the one from R..Auto for 75 and replaced in less than 20 min, took off only the lower panel (2 screws) and remove the blower by push on the tab and rotating clockwise, then push out of the way, the vent(rear side) and cables (front side), its tight but it will come off.

02-06-2013, 05:48 PM	#45
explorer2 Private 2 Rep 84 Posts Drives: 06 325xi Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: USA iTrader: (0)	I have been getting the cricket noise starting from my blower motor the past couple of days. Removal of the cabin filter revealed that the gasket was not properly reinstalled last time the dealer changed it. I was able to fix it by turning off recirc mode on the HVAC controls, and using a flashlight and a few drops of turbine oil I found a local hardware store the problem was solved. This is the oil I used: http://www.laco.com/prod/43/zoom-spout-oiler.aspx For those of you considering the WD-40 route I would highly recommend this. Costs about $2 and has an extendable spout to apply a few drops directly to the bearing, without coating the air box in oil.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

02-07-2013, 06:14 PM	#46
waterchange Enlisted Member 3 Rep 39 Posts Drives: E90 2007 328i 4dr Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Seattle iTrader: (0)	Just wanted to post a THANK YOU here too. Had a free afternoon so pulled out my blower motor, threw some silicon lubricant on it, confirmed the fan spun with power before putting it back together, and then connected the unit back. I now have heat/air again. Without this diy, I'd likely be paying the dealership a ton of money to fix this. I couldn't figure out how to pull out the ductwork off so I also wrestled the motor in/out with it in place. I do have a new blower motor in route (via ebay) but I can at least drive comfortably around until it gets here; I'll wait for this motor to croak again before putting the new one in. It's amazing how fogged up windshields can get w/o the fan.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

02-10-2013, 08:28 PM	#47
YEM New Member 2 Rep 5 Posts Drives: 2006 325xi Wagon Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: United States iTrader: (0)	Thank you SO much for this DIY. I decided to create a youtube video of my fix today. I can't believe no one else struggled with removing the ducts. I would have been done in 20 minutes, but I spent a long time struggling with the ducting. Anyhow, thanks again. PS - I read another post that said he left the ducting in. In retrospect, i think you can do that. Anyhow... here's my vid:
	Appreciate 0 Quote

02-25-2013, 03:07 PM	#49
Agentphish Major 129 Rep 1,052 Posts Drives: '08 328i Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: SF Bay Area iTrader: (2)	Did the Zoom Spout fix this morning. Worked like a charm. Hopefully it continues to last for years to come.
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02-26-2013, 09:43 AM	#50
PhaseP Colonel 1006 Rep 2,107 Posts Drives: 325XI Join Date: May 2010 Location: Earth iTrader: (0)	Have a 2006, and in the past, I had twice removed the blower motor, disassembled its bottom part so that I could access the lower part of the motor axle also. Cleaned, lubed/sprayed both upper and lower part of the axle, only to see it last a few months each time. Each time after a few months, first it starts chirping, then it stops all of a sudden, and this could happen when you really need it, like a cold morning drive when your windshield gets misty from inside humidity. So after my second cleaning temp fix failed, I bought a new motor. New one had a new part number, updated, although it looked exactly as the old one, don't know what they changed. It has been 2 years now since I changed it, no noise, no stopping so far. My point is, cleaning it up with oil is temporary fix, rust starts building up again, and if you let the car sit for a few days, the rust developed during that time is enough to bind the motor from spinning. Even a simple hand push makes it go spinning back again though. So if you keep a hex drive in your car that you can remove the air filter to reach in and give a spin to the motor when it stops, you would be good! But watch your fingers getting caught hit on the blades!
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03-15-2013, 06:05 PM	#53
bhmax16 Lieutenant 164 Rep 401 Posts Drives: '22 M4, '23 CX-50 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: North Carolina iTrader: (0)	Correction I'm just making a correction to this DIY. The OP said that removal of the unit was twisting counter-clockwise, but that is incorrect. The blower is removed by twisting clockwise (if you are on your back looking up at it) and reinstalls by twisting counter-clockwise. This is fresh in my head since I literally did this 10 minutes ago (sprayed the upper bearing with PB blaster to quiet it down). I have to smell PB blaster now for a few days, but it's better than listening to the racket the blower has been making on cold mornings here in the Northeast
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03-17-2013, 03:43 PM	#54
Agentphish Major 129 Rep 1,052 Posts Drives: '08 328i Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: SF Bay Area iTrader: (2)	That's why zoom spout is ideal. NO odor at all.
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03-30-2013, 01:52 PM	#55
bavaddict Lieutenant 51 Rep 443 Posts Drives: F32 435i MPerf Edit Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Coast iTrader: (0)	Hi All: I can't seem to find at either of my Loews stores. But store suggested I use "DuPont Teflon Lubricant" which is odorless. I was going to use WD40 but instead was holding off for Zoom Spout which I can find anywhere locally because of the lingering smell issue. What do you guys think about the Teflon silicone lubricant? Anyone tried this? Thanks.
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04-08-2013, 08:05 AM	#56
myachinbak Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 07 328xi Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: CT iTrader: (0)	DIY Blower Motor Replacement for 07 328xi I replaced mine in about 20 mins. And no you don't have to take the duct work or glove box out: Take the panel off (2 small Torx screws). Disconnect (unplug) the light wire Unclip the old motor with finger (behind at 10 oclock position) Give the motor a twist (gravity will help loosen it and drop it) Shimmy the motor out as you are pulling the plastic duct (towards the rear of the car) out of the way. It will come out with wires and plastic duct pushed aside. As its hanging freely disconnect the wires. Transfer motor components from old to new motor (with same Torx screwdriver) Make the same wire connections on the new motor Shimmy the new motor back in by moving the wires and pulling duct out of the way. (Take your time and have patience. It will go in.) I also used a piece of duct tape to hold wire harness out of the way on the install. Make sure its flush and give it a twist to lock it in. Plug the light wire in the panel Replace the screws in the panel and your done. Easy job.
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04-23-2013, 07:14 PM	#57
DUI Elite ///M at Heart 90 Rep 1,954 Posts Drives: 06 SGM E90, 15 BSM E84 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (4)	can anyone confirm the smell actually does go away? I just did the WD40 method from the passenger side of the microfilter cover It was pretty hard to reach the lower part of the rusted shaft. At any rate, I expected to smell the fumes from the WD40, and sure enough, did. But wondering if it actually does go away within a few days? Some UK guys claim the smell never goes away. Don't know who to believe. I left it all disassembled in hopes of letting fresh air pull some of the fumes out. But we'll see tomorrow morning. __________________ \| 3-IM \| AA Headers \| Eurocharged Stage-3 \| BMW PI \|
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04-23-2013, 07:22 PM	#58
bavaddict Lieutenant 51 Rep 443 Posts Drives: F32 435i MPerf Edit Join Date: May 2010 Location: East Coast iTrader: (0)	I used the Teflon product I posted few posts above and smell went away after my 1 hour short drive where I had fan running full blast. YMMV.
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07-01-2013, 06:56 PM	#60
Hisho335i New Member 0 Rep 14 Posts Drives: 335i Premium/Sport/Dinan Soft Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Redondo Beach Ca iTrader: (0)	I have a 335i 2007 E90 and the inside blower is not working, with a multimeter there is no voltage coming to the motor or resistor (tried all setting high) checked all fuses. still no voltage coming on the Motor/resistor . Climate control panel all green lights and it functions normal . That happened after changing water pump/thermostat. any ideas
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08-12-2013, 08:42 AM	#61
Zasquatch Captain 36 Rep 708 Posts Drives: '07 BMW 335i Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: CT iTrader: (15) Garage List 2007 BMW 335i [0.00]	My HVAC stopped working suddenly.... Found this DIY and began troubleshooting. To my surprise, I found the input harness to the FSU complete fried and melted to the housing... The ground wire was completely f***ed and melted the insulation back about 2", exposing corroded green copper wire. Talk about a fire hazard! Calling my crappy local dealer yeilded the response "we need to change the entire vehicle harness for big money". I called a farther away, excellent dealer, and they supplied me with part numbers for the harness housing an the terminals inside! I soldered in new wire, cleaned off the crispy terminals on the FSU, and to my amazement everything worked! The housing is still visibly charred but the circuit board apparently made it through the ordeal. Here are the elusive part numbers for the harness and the two different gauges of wire connectors: Harness housing: 61136925196 Large gauge connector: 61138377732 Small gauge connector: 61138377730
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09-16-2013, 08:13 AM	#62
brutalsnax Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: 2007 328i Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Houston iTrader: (0)	Easy...but now what My experience with cars is as follows. Checking oil, filling washer fluid, changing tires, banging on the dashboard and/or turning on/off car in attempting to resolve all other issues. I was able to follow these instructions and remove the blower motor...I'm assuming the reinstall would be just as easy. That's about as good of a testimonial that you can get regarding this DIY write up. Thank you. Attached is what I found...can someone please explain what would cause this and if either part is worth salvaging? Will I have to replace the harness or will it work in that state? I'm guessing the electronic piece attached to the motor is garbage, but how would I know if the blower motor is functioning? I live in a medium sized city where the BMW dealership is really the only game in town for this and they have a great history (with me at least) of bending you over. Any help would be appreciated. Attached Images
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09-16-2013, 09:16 AM	#63
cawelcome Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: BMW 325i 2006 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: San Jose, CA iTrader: (0)	E90, 2006 325i. Don't know much about cars. Here is my issue. Blower fan shuts off for one second every once in a while (after 2-3 minutes or so) then comes on. It doesn't matter what fan speed is set. Happens when AC is running too. What could be the issue?
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04-07-2014, 09:10 AM	#64
spyder13b Registered 0 Rep 2 Posts Drives: '06 325xi Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Buffalo, NY iTrader: (0)	'06 325xi, 145K miles Just replaced the blower motor over the weekend. Mine would occassionally make a humming noise on the high settings (especially defrost), but other times it seemed normal. It finally decided one day to just stop working. I wasn't sure if the motor was completely gone, so I tested for power going to the motor (from the 2 tabs on the FSU, after you remove the motor connector). On medium setting, it was ~4V and on the highest setting it was ~8V. I was sure the motor was bad after testing this.... I thought this might be helpful for anyone who wants to test this before they order the motor...... Replacement was easy, and I wish I had come across the instructions from ENTITY before I did it! I bought the replacement motor from RockAuto, and it was $75.79, not including shipping. It was made by TYC. The OEM motor seems to have a rubber insulator built in to it (you can see the green lines on photos in previous posts - I believe this rubber material encases the motor inside the black housing). The replacement I bought didn't have this, but I don't think it's any noisier than the OEM. What I did notice was that the blower fan blade/cage was different, and actually covered the motor (so it might prevent water from dripping directly on to the motor?). With the OEM, there were openings in the cage, so if water were to drip in, it could go directly on to the motor. I wish I had taken some photos of this to post. If I run in to any issues with the motor, I'll be sure to reply to this post to let you guys know. I did find that the axle on the old motor was rusty, so I'm pretty sure that I have the water leak from the cabin air filter housing. I also noticed water stains on the sound-deadening material above the panel. I'll be looking in to that this weekend....
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04-08-2014, 08:24 AM	#65
sterz85 Second Lieutenant 12 Rep 244 Posts Drives: '07 328xi Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Troy, MI iTrader: (1)	So I found this DIY also from Pelican Parts. The question I have is which parts will I need? Reading the Pelican parts required, it lists the blower motor, blower motor resistor (final stage). http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech..._Replacing.htm Blower motor http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item2 Blower motor resistor http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9-265-892-M262 When you guys replaced your blower, which part did you buy?
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04-15-2014, 12:05 PM	#66
joro2077 ..... 25 Rep 152 Posts Drives: 335i E93 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: South Jersey iTrader: (3)	Sterz85 you only need blower motor if yours is noisy. I also bought the one from R..Auto for 75 and replaced in less than 20 min, took off only the lower panel (2 screws) and remove the blower by push on the tab and rotating clockwise, then push out of the way, the vent(rear side) and cables (front side), its tight but it will come off.
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