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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Royal Purple oil



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      08-14-2010, 02:45 PM   #23
cb1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IseeHalos View Post
I recently did a oil change on my 2006 325i from BMW Castrol (original oil) to Royal Purple, then took my car on a 2000 mile round trip drive and I cant say enough good things about the oil and its benefits, Ill never turn back- there is also a really good video on youtube to demonstrate - enjoy

Sure - a 2000 mile trip and you "cant say enough good things about the oil and its benefits?"

What benefits? The engine didn't seize up? Your mpg tripled?

This is just the crap that keeps these companies in business. You really drank the kool-aid.

Since you're out of warranty you don't need to concern yourself that you would have lost any lubrication related warranty.
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      08-16-2010, 09:45 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by nj335i View Post
I was wondering if anyone had used Royal Purple in their 335s. It seems like the oil that BMW provides is a longer lasting synthetic able to hold out for 15,000 miles before a change. How often would you need to change the oil if you switched over to Royal Purple? It seems like this oil (5w30) can be had for $125 for 5 gallons on rpmoil.com! This comes out to roughly the same price as the oil BMW recommends. Also, will using this oil void any warranties that you know of? Any input would be extremely helpful as I'd like to do an oil change soon after my e90 is redelivered! :rocks:
With so many great PAO or Ester based LL01 oils out there why anyone would go with RP is beyond my imagination.

(M1, Motul, Pentonsin, Lubro-Moly, Total, Castrol)
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      08-16-2010, 10:01 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Socom View Post
With so many great PAO or Ester based LL01 oils out there why anyone would go with RP is beyond my imagination.

(M1, Motul, Pentonsin, Lubro-Moly, Total, Castrol)
I have always used Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic which is not LL01 approved.

change every 7500, with no issues.


oh btw- i took a 500 mile road trip, and this shit is AMAZING!!
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      08-16-2010, 10:12 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by express705 View Post
.


oh btw- i took a 500 mile road trip, and this shit is AMAZING!!
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      08-16-2010, 01:02 PM   #27
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I just switched to my maple syrup/Paulaner blend and took a 5 mile drive. It was exquisite. Buttery smooth with an interesting aftertaste. The cottage cheese gives it that extra lubrication and the Kung PAO base has been tested by nobody so it meets no specs - but who cares, my 5 mile test should be sufficient.

Accordingly, I recommend that everyone dumps that "approved" stuff and switches to my BayernBlend.

Another advantage is that if you are ever low on oil, you can top it off with your favorite brew from southern Germany. D NOT try to top off using beers from Northern Germany as the two will not mix.
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      08-16-2010, 07:27 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by cb1111 View Post
I just switched to my maple syrup/Paulaner blend and took a 5 mile drive. It was exquisite. Buttery smooth with an interesting aftertaste. The cottage cheese gives it that extra lubrication and the Kung PAO base has been tested by nobody so it meets no specs - but who cares, my 5 mile test should be sufficient.

Accordingly, I recommend that everyone dumps that "approved" stuff and switches to my BayernBlend.

Another advantage is that if you are ever low on oil, you can top it off with your favorite brew from southern Germany. D NOT try to top off using beers from Northern Germany as the two will not mix.
sweetness in the air!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA
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      08-16-2010, 07:38 PM   #29
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Wink

If you want "real" synthetic oils, you must purchase 100% synthetics, such as, Amsoil, Red Line, Total, Motul, Mobil EP and all synthetic oils that are sold outside the USA with the same exact name here AND are imported into the US. Even though Castrol Edge costs big bucks...it is NOT 100% synthetic and most other Mobil 1 oils are NOT 100% synthetic. If Royal Purple won't put into writing that it's 100% synthetic or that it isn't hydrocracked, do not believe it's 100% synthetic! Most all the "fully synthetic" oils found on the shelves in the US are "fully synthetic" legally, but are made from out-of-the-ground oil and are considered "hydocracked" or super refined "dino" oils or Group III oils. Note the date of the API Group designations in this thread...it's from 1999 and is outdated! 100% synthetics usually cost more (Total is the least expensive that I've found). Why the deception? Back in 1999 Mobil took Castrol to court because Castrol Syntec claimed and still does claim to be synthetic oil (it's hydrocracked) and Mobil (and no one else) could sell their 100% synthetics for the same price as Syntec. The case was arbitrated out of court by someone NOT knowledgeable in lubricants and Castrol won and was allowed to sell their "hydrocracked" products as "fully synthetic". Mobil and everyone else said great and with few exceptions (see above and there ARE more 100% synthetics sold in the US, but not many), sell hydrocracked/super refined "dino "lubricants as "fully synthetic", BUT only in the US! Being the court case was arbitrated in the US, nowhere else in the world can a container of oil/fluid say synthetic, UNLESS it's 100% synthetic (made from 100% synthetic base stock, i.e., PAO Group IV or Ester Group V). Red Line is the only Group V that I know of and has the highest flash point that I've seen. That's why I use it everywhere in the vehicle! Check this URL for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
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      08-17-2010, 08:04 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlievet View Post
Why the deception? Back in 1999 Mobil took Castrol to court because Castrol Syntec claimed and still does claim to be synthetic oil (it's hydrocracked) and Mobil (and no one else) could sell their 100% synthetics for the same price as Syntec. The case was arbitrated out of court by someone NOT knowledgeable in lubricants and Castrol won and was allowed to sell their "hydrocracked" products as "fully synthetic". Mobil and everyone else said great and with few exceptions (see above and there ARE more 100% synthetics sold in the US, but not many), sell hydrocracked/super refined "dino "lubricants as "fully synthetic", BUT only in the US! Being the court case was arbitrated in the US, nowhere else in the world can a container of oil/fluid say synthetic, : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil
I'm going to put this rumor to bed. There wasn't as court case between M1 and Castrol. M1 filed a formal complaint with BBB advertisers division of what could be called synthetic.

In any case all of this will be moot when the 2010 ACEA oil test sequences come out.
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      08-17-2010, 08:29 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socom View Post
...In any case all of this will be moot when the 2010 ACEA oil test sequences come out.
This entire discussion is moot anyway.

You have two choices:

Use manufacturer approved fluids and keep your warranty intact, or

Unse anything else and risk your warranty.

The choice is yours.
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      08-17-2010, 09:03 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1111 View Post
This entire discussion is moot anyway.

You have two choices:

Use manufacturer approved fluids and keep your warranty intact, or

Unse anything else and risk your warranty.

The choice is yours.
what makes you think LL01 oils are the BEST way to go?

as long as you are changing your oil accordingly, and maintaing your vehicle, you could use any synthetic you want.
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      08-17-2010, 10:25 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by express705 View Post
what makes you think LL01 oils are the BEST way to go?

as long as you are changing your oil accordingly, and maintaing your vehicle, you could use any synthetic you want.
#1 LL01 in general may be inadequate for some attributes of a DI turbo gasser engine but it is the only way you can preserve your warranty.

#2 Although you may be right, the reality is that you're just guessing, and there's no reason to guess since there are numerous LL01 oils which may be better suited for your particular application. My opinion is that not all LL01 oils are the same. For example, if I had a N54/N55 and was concerned about fuel dilution I would run a 40w or a PAO/Ester base LL01 instead of a 30w Gr3 LL01. LL01 doesn't addres fuel dilution, but I would know that a PAO by its very nature may be more resistant than a Gr3.

I just don't see any need to go off the reservation when you don't have to.

If I had a NA gasser engine then I would stick with the cheapest LL01 oil and a reasonable OCI because the engines are easy on oil.
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      08-17-2010, 12:23 PM   #34
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      08-17-2010, 02:54 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by express705 View Post
what makes you think LL01 oils are the BEST way to go?

as long as you are changing your oil accordingly, and maintaing your vehicle, you could use any synthetic you want.
Neither you nor I know what is best for our engines (and the RP and Amsoil people don't know 'cause they haven't tested them.)

What we do know is that BMW requires us to use approved lubricants if we want to assure that our warranty stays intact.

Use my maple syrup and Paulaner blend for all I care but don't come back here crying when the dealer has refused warranty service because you can't prove that you used approved oils at every oil change.
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