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2E84 - How do I test the electric water pump?
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06-12-2012, 11:37 AM | #47 |
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I am also having water pump issues but want to rule out every other possibility before spending 1k to get it fixed. What other issues might be going on other than the fuses under the hood? Where is the fuse box in the trunk top of the battery? I am hoping it's something simple but I am prepared for the worst.
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06-13-2012, 11:44 PM | #48 | |
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07-09-2012, 11:10 PM | #49 |
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sorry to bump a old thread, but is there any way i can check to see if the fuse on the distributor block is blown or not? do i have to take the whole red block apart to see?
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07-24-2012, 12:27 PM | #50 |
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another victim....
'06 325i 6spd.... 97k miles on a 105deg F day was blasting (120mph) on highway, A/C OFF and it blew... went <3 miles to service area, coolant was GONE... car took 1.5 gallons of coolant and the pump started back up.... Had dealer perform an oil change (had coupon 79.99) and read codes/check out (pressure test on cooling system- OK)... (they wanted $1700.00, to replace pump and thermostat; F that) ordered parts from www.BAVAUTO.com: replacing H2O pump, thermostat, hoses, spark plugs, battery, and rear diff fluid this weekend... (wallet just got thin) Since there is not a core charge on the water pump, I am going to take the electronic pack apart and map the boards. since the actual motor and impeller do not fail there should be a way to fix them.... Will learn more when it is on the bench... oh, I'm an engineer that makes rock crawler suspension in my free time so this should be a bit of fun 4 me will post pictures on the weekend.. |
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07-25-2012, 06:54 AM | #51 | |
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07-25-2012, 12:43 PM | #52 |
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Look forward to your diagnosis and pictures. A BMW regional engineer told me after a few beers that the pumps were tested by Siemens using an accelerated test to 200 hours, and then a model was used to project lifetime.
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07-30-2012, 12:21 PM | #53 | |
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well i completely tore it apart. (broke it a bit LOL) Continuity tested all the circuit boards and checked resistances across the winding, nothing abnormal. in the processes I trashed on of the permanent magnets (oh well).... none of the parts were cooked, no evidence of burn out... (FYI my pump only had a "intermittent voltage failure" not catastrophic (BMW tech's words) Post some pictures tonight. regardless i replace it and the thermostat, along with the spark plugs, rear diff fluid and took out and replace a cylinder head bolt that had lost it head ... biggest PIA was the push lock hose connections to the thermostat. productive weekend. |
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08-02-2012, 04:56 PM | #54 | |
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This Topic save my money and time ... Thank you import36 |
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06-23-2013, 12:14 AM | #55 |
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Can somebody take a photo of the inside of the distribution block/fuses on the battery?
I opened mine up and couldnt see any fuses at all... or is the whole block basically a fuse and relay in one ? |
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07-23-2013, 03:40 AM | #56 |
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testing electrical harness to water pump via multimeter
I tested the water pump's electrical input harness with a multimeter:
legend: ~pin1- thick red positive wire ~pin2- smaller wire (forgot color) ~pin3- another smaller wire ~pin4- thick black negative ground wire **note the pins are labeled on the harness from 1 to 4. When car was off: (i tested from each pin to pin4, the ground) ~pin1- 12V ~pin2- 0V ~pin3- 0V When coolant bleed procedure was in progress (pump running): ~pin1- 12-13V (or a little over that) ~pin2- 12V ~pin3- 7.5V (rounded value) My water pump when plugged in and running the bleeding procedure did not make the pump running noise which should sound like a small dishwasher going off. instead it made like practically no noise, except for an intermittent buzzing noise. I got the yellow overheat indicator then the red indicator. But before I bought a replacement water pump I wanted to rule out the fuse/electrical harness/distribution block as being the main problem. I think that this is an easier way to check the electrical aspect of the system. Getting to the F07 or F09 fuses in the e-box (engine bay fuse box) is very difficult for me. I just gave up lol. and as for the distribution block, i took a look, wiggled some of the wires, gave it a couple good hits just in case then walked away. too complicated to check. I hope this helps. |
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07-28-2013, 08:21 PM | #57 |
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Had same issue and replacing the distribution block fixed the problem instantly.
The way to check the fuses are to remove the part out of the plastic container on the battery and then wiggle the contacts back and forth. The one that is blown will clearly have a lot more free play in it than the rest. This method is direct from a BMW mechanic at the dealer. |
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08-10-2013, 01:51 PM | #58 |
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Sorry for reviving this thread again. I'm having the same 2E84 comm error. No overheating yet or yellow/red indicators. Brought it to a indy shop and they say the pump is working, no fuses blown in the DME, but when the car is turned off the water pump continuously runs for another 2mins or so, which is not normal. It is possible that the stop signal to the pump is blocked. They recommend replacing the pump.
QUESTION: Can someone elaborate in more detail or include photos of how to trouble shoot the power distribution block on top of the battery ?? I don't mind spending $60 to replace it, but would like to know if there was a way to simply test it to be certain. thanks, K |
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08-10-2013, 03:43 PM | #59 |
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Update I pulled the power distribution bar out... and the fuses are just inside the red bar.. you can easily pry it open and see the fuses. Can't believe this crappy thing costs $60 - $110 depending on where you live.
Anyways, the fuses look fine so that's not my problem. Ive tested the fuses with a multimeter and everything looks good. I guess the only other source is the WATER PUMP itself. Damn... In Canada, that's a $1100-1200 job with the thermostat. |
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08-10-2013, 03:45 PM | #60 | |
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It's one of the reasons bmw used an electric pump. It runs to circulate coolant through the turbos to prevent coking. Our turbos have oil and water cooling, this process does away with needing a turbo timer and having the engine run after a hard drive. |
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08-10-2013, 03:53 PM | #61 | |
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08-11-2013, 03:24 PM | #62 | ||
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Why would the radiator fan run alone when an electric pump could physically move water through the entire engine and turbos? On a traditional setup with a belt or chain driven pump the fan is the only option but an electric pump can do it while the engine is off. Think about it ... |
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08-14-2013, 11:10 AM | #63 | |
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I trust that BMW designed it in a certain way and if it's not suppose to turn on it, it shouldn't. |
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08-25-2015, 11:37 PM | #64 | |
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I'll try the fuses and everything else tonight, if not I'll take her to the dealership to get diagnosed (still under some warranty) BTW this will be my 3th water pump in the last 24k and all of them had the same symptoms as yours. |
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10-29-2015, 01:14 AM | #65 |
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For those who (unfortunately) are able to get the 2E84 code, it means you need to replace the electric water pump (and thermostat).
For all others who somehow are going through some overheating engine problem, it might be simple a low coolant issue, or a leak somewhere, or else... To answer the question of this thread: "How do i test the electric water pump?" This youtube video saved me $600 (for now): Not the best video out there, nor the most exciting to listen to, but man i learned something! if you are ready to perform the above procedure, i recommend you have extra coolant available nearby to filll up if you see the coolant level is low in the expansion tank... Leave the cap of the expansion tank out. If the water pump works, it should pump coolant and circulate it... This procedure will last over 10 mins and you cannot stop it... you just need to monitor it. Good luck... PS: sorry for reviving this thread |
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10-29-2015, 01:17 PM | #66 |
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Are you suppose to have the expansion cap open when doing the purge process? I am sure every else it says that the expansion cap must be closed!
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