[mlifxs]

*****UPDATE 10/7/2012****
After experiencing the symptom twice in two days, decided to do more research. Found a thread where someone had an eccentric shaft sensor cause this problem. Researched a DIY here and pulled the plug to the sensor to see if it was fouled with oil. It was not.

Four weeks ago, I cleaned and switched the vanos solenoids after getting the whistle, with CEL code P0012. Cleared the code and CEL. So far, no new codes yet.


*****UPDATE 9/2/2012*****
Months later, I continue to have the "whistle symptom" around once a month. Seems to be loud when my foot's off the gas, goes away when I accelerate. Turn engine off, Turn back on, every thing seems to be fine.

Today, it occurred and finally a CES long enough to read it: P0012
The CES has not gone away but I'll try clearing it today.

From searching on the forum for this code, it could be a Vanos Solenoid. Just posting here along with original symptoms in case anyone has thoughts on it. Thanks in advance for any input.

*****************


thanks in advance for any color / comments here.

Experienced the following problem today. Sitting at a light, I get a CEL and the engine shuts off.

Start the engine. CEL dissappears. Drive about a mile more, slow down for a speed bump and another CEL and engine shuts down. Restart but a little rough. Drive another mile home.

Approaching my house, I notice I have a high pitched whistle sound.

For the heck of it, used Torque Pro to check for fault codes, none found (does this thing really read codes ? )

Any idea what this problem could be about? Had my belt tensioner pully done a few months ago after belt started to creep off the pully, belts look good today. Have some sort of small oil leak around the valve cover gasket but not really consuming oil.

[Gjm127]

ouch.. seems pretty serious to me. No idea on what it could be.
I'd get that checked out if I were you. Is the car still doing the same thing today?

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Gjm127

ouch.. seems pretty serious to me. No idea on what it could be.
I'd get that checked out if I were you. Is the car still doing the same thing today?

this happened today, but it's not doing it at the moment. No whistle, no CEL.

If anyone's reading this, a related question: if my car has a CEL that goes away, will I have a fault code to clear somewhere or not?

I have one of those cheapo bluetooth OBD2 readers and that cheapo Android app Torque Pro, which reads 'no codes to clear' but I really don't trust its ability in this area.

[d3l0n]

CEL check engine light?

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by d3l0n

CEL check engine light?

yes sorry.

Just took the car to Autozone. No fault codes. Perhaps not all BMW codes are picked up? or my earlier question about Check Engine Lights that reset after engine restart?

Anyway, on my trip to Autozone and a drive afterwards, no issues, engine felt as strong as usual, even with several WOT pulls. Weird.

[T7R_Sky]

My car didn't shut down but it did start emitting a whistling noise a week or so ago. Turned out to be my PCV valve jamming. Unfortunately it involves replacing the whole valvecover if its the plastic valvecover. A decent test for that is opening the oil filler cap while the engine is running. If its hard to open or you cant open it, then its the pcv valve not releasing pressure.

[mlifxs]

thanks very much for the PCV comment . Was your car whistling when you tried the oil cap test? I will definitely try it regardless.

[T7R_Sky]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

thanks very much for the PCV comment . Was your car whistling when you tried the oil cap test? I will definitely try it regardless.

Not really because at idle there isn't too much pressure being made, but it could depend how far your pcv has failed also. From what I was told by my mechanic friend, mine failed partially open so it just whistled a lot and shouldn't have done any major damage to the engine. If yours was jammed a little closer to shut, it might whistle while at idle. My recommendation is do the oil cap test and if that pans out, take it to a reputable mechanic and tell him you think your pcv valve went out and you would like him to check it. Cost me $800 for the parts and labor from my buddy. But if you're daring enough its only 450 for parts (I wasn't) haha

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by T7R_Sky

Not really because at idle there isn't too much pressure being made, but it could depend how far your pcv has failed also. From what I was told by my mechanic friend, mine failed partially open so it just whistled a lot and shouldn't have done any major damage to the engine. If yours was jammed a little closer to shut, it might whistle while at idle. My recommendation is do the oil cap test and if that pans out, take it to a reputable mechanic and tell him you think your pcv valve went out and you would like him to check it. Cost me $800 for the parts and labor from my buddy. But if you're daring enough its only 450 for parts (I wasn't) haha

did your suggestion on the cap, seemed fine, no extra pressure. Yesterday I had the whistle and the low speed stalls. Last night and on two 30 mile trips everything seems fine, car feels very strong and no indication of problem. Guess I'll give the cap a try again next time I hear the whistle.

browsing on realoem, best I can tell there's no part named pcv for my build month, but I bet there's something that serves the same purpose.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by T7R_Sky

Not really because at idle there isn't too much pressure being made, but it could depend how far your pcv has failed also. From what I was told by my mechanic friend, mine failed partially open so it just whistled a lot and shouldn't have done any major damage to the engine. If yours was jammed a little closer to shut, it might whistle while at idle. My recommendation is do the oil cap test and if that pans out, take it to a reputable mechanic and tell him you think your pcv valve went out and you would like him to check it. Cost me $800 for the parts and labor from my buddy. But if you're daring enough its only 450 for parts (I wasn't) haha

Regarding a DIY possibility...pulled up realoem for my car. Is the PCV apparatus part of the "vent hose" item #14?

[T7R_Sky]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

did your suggestion on the cap, seemed fine, no extra pressure. Yesterday I had the whistle and the low speed stalls. Last night and on two 30 mile trips everything seems fine, car feels very strong and no indication of problem. Guess I'll give the cap a try again next time I hear the whistle.

browsing on realoem, best I can tell there's no part named pcv for my build month, but I bet there's something that serves the same purpose.

Yeah... Thats because the PCV is actually integrated into our valvecovers (Part 1 in the diagram) but if you're not experiencing the extra crank pressure, it might be something else entirely.

Best of luck and let us know what happens!

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by T7R_Sky

Yeah... Thats because the PCV is actually integrated into our valvecovers (Part 1 in the diagram) but if you're not experiencing the extra crank pressure, it might be something else entirely.

Best of luck and let us know what happens!

thanks. I'm inclined to let it go and see if it repeats itself. I dread going in to the dealer for exploratory surgery and the car runs fine for now.

[T7R_Sky]

Originally Posted by mlifxs

thanks. I'm inclined to let it go and see if it repeats itself. I dread going in to the dealer for exploratory surgery and the car runs fine for now.

Well there's your problem! Go find a good/reputable Indy shop, haha.

[mlifxs]

After some additional searching, found a member who is experiencing a similar problem, perhaps a little more severe:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669935
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678269
any comment on this issue, either in my thread or theirs is appreciated

[mlifxs]

bump for new edit

[vertigo44]

PM sent

[mlifxs]

bump for new edit / updae

[mlifxs]

bump for new edit / updae

[mlifxs]

bump for new edit / update

[JHaskill]

New here. Found this thread and I am having the same exact issue.

2009 328ix

Random whistling, I would say it sounds more like a brake squeal, that stops when I rev the engine. It will immediately start again once I stop pushing the engine a bit. Just started having rough idle randomly too. Getting a CEL once in a while but that clears itself. I haven't pulled codes. Car runs great even when whistling. Going through town the other day it started. While at a stop light I put it in park, shut it down and restarted, it didn't happen again until the following day.

I was first thinking this was associated with a bad pulley, belt slipping issue until I started having idle issues. So only options now are power steering pump or PCV valve? Wish I could nail this down without taking it into service. I will if needed though.

Thought I would throw my issue into the mix.

Thanks.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by JHaskill

New here. Found this thread and I am having the same exact issue.

2009 328ix

Random whistling, I would say it sounds more like a brake squeal, that stops when I rev the engine. It will immediately start again once I stop pushing the engine a bit. Just started having rough idle randomly too. Getting a CEL once in a while but that clears itself. I haven't pulled codes. Car runs great even when whistling. Going through town the other day it started. While at a stop light I put it in park, shut it down and restarted, it didn't happen again until the following day.

I was first thinking this was associated with a bad pulley, belt slipping issue until I started having idle issues. So only options now are power steering pump or PCV valve? Wish I could nail this down without taking it into service. I will if needed though.

Thought I would throw my issue into the mix.

Thanks.

Per my posts, I had a ODB code and a CEL suggesting a bad vanos sensor on the intake side as a possible cause. I cleaned the sensors and swapped them (there are two).

After changing them, I later had a second code (proprietary, not OBD generic) that, among other things, could indicate a bad vanos sensor on the exhaust side.

Given this happened after switching sensors, I'm cautiously optimistic that the cause of the whistle is the sensor. I cleaned both again, this time more thoroughly, using MAF cleaner and forced air and put them back in. I also changed the oil ahead of schedule.

So far, after more than a month and a half, no whistle and no additional codes.

This fix might / might not work for you (or for me, but so far so good). Good luck to both of us.

[JHaskill]

Brilliant, seems like I will give this a shot to see what happens.

Thanks for the follow-up.

-J