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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY - Replacing Camshaft VANOS Solenoid
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04-21-2016, 12:44 AM | #243 |
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04-21-2016, 10:33 AM | #244 |
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When cleaning or replacing the Vanos solenoids, consider that the Check Valves which filter the oil going to each of these solenoids can become clogged, especially if there is a chance that the engine may have early signs of sludge or just particularly dirty oil, or very high mileage. These are located on the side of the head just forward of the 1-3 exhaust manifold. Easiest access is through the wheel well with the forward wheel well liner removed - there is a proper DIY thread for that in this subsection. If it turns out that these Check Valves are dirty, they can be fairly easily cleaned, but they are also fairly cheap, so in some cases it makes sense to just replace them. They are one-way valves, so it is also important that they still function correctly as well as being free of blockage.
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04-21-2016, 01:08 PM | #245 | |
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Much appreciated. |
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05-13-2016, 12:44 PM | #246 |
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First, I want to say thank you for the DIY. This one was easy, and I'm sure it saved me a good amount of $.
Car would go into limp mode and threw the 2A87 fault code on my 2007 335i with 129,000 miles. (by the way, I didn't have time to mess with it, and ended up driving it like this for months) Limp mode would only come on when boosting higher, and would reset with each restart. I would just restart, and sometimes it would be good for a day or two, sometimes just a mile or two. 2A87 Outlet-Vanos variable cam control test, mechanics Error will cause a warning light Error is not currently present Test conditions have been completed I got so much out of this thread, that I wanted to add a couple things, in hopes that it helps someone. Even after reading about the connector, I still managed to switch the inlet and outlet connectors. (bonehead, I know) This will throw both codes and the car will stutter when you initially start, and it will go immediately into limp mode. I actually drove it like this for a day, thinking the aftermarket solenoid was the culprit. Throwing both inlet and outlet fault codes should have tipped me off, but I did this before work and was rushing. (excuse lol) The second thing I'd like to add. I searched for info on the aftermarket solenoids but could not find much. I took a chance and decided to try one I found on Amazon for $42, made by Auto Parts Prodigy. http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Variabl...noid+vanos+335 I know a lot of people prefer OEM, and I did too when I had lower miles, but with 130k on the clock, I'm willing to go aftermarket as long as it works. Now that I've tried it, I'm here to tell you guys that the aftermarket solenoid works as described. All my codes are gone, and the car runs great again. =) !!! |
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07-06-2016, 11:30 AM | #247 |
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My car recently threw the following codes, going to clean and swap the vanos solenoids right away. People just use compressed air and carb cleaner on the solenoids it seems?
2A7C - Vanos, Einlass, Kalstart 3100 - boost-pressure control, deactivation I take it the 2A7C code is interchangeable with the 2A87 code based on this? https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en...otential-Fixes
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07-11-2016, 09:28 AM | #248 |
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I'm getting this code, the car idles rough,it stalled at a red light, once or twice, and my MPG's went down from 27-28 to 24-24.5.
I checked youtube and I found a pretty good video. However in order to remove the solenoids I need an external (female) torx socket (youtube vid shows a 10mm bolt)... I asked the stealership (close to work), they have them for $175.00 each, Rockauto, $75.00each, amazon is selling them for around $40.00.... I notice a member using the amazon aftermarket solenoid and I may go that route, but first I need to get the external torx socket.....
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Barriquerot Metalic Last edited by zibercat; 07-11-2016 at 09:30 AM.. Reason: Added a line |
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07-12-2016, 09:17 AM | #249 |
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Hi Guys,
Just to update you on the progress of my persistent issues. 2A82 Inlet Vanos variable cam control test 3100 Boost pressure control, deactivation 2A89 Crank Shaft - Inlet camshaft correlation As mentioned earlier in a previous post on this thread, I had already changed the vanos solenoids, cam position sensors and check valves, with brand new OEM ones. Oil change, filter change was also done. But errors still persisted with Limp mode all the time. Last option that actually did the trick was the cam bearing ledge replacement. They were worn out due to the metal seals on the cam shaft. New seals are made of teflon so wont be a problem i'll face again. My baby is back... If you have similar errors popping up, might be an option you would want to check. |
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07-13-2016, 10:44 AM | #250 |
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First, thx for this DIY...very helpful! Second, if you have an oil cooler and your hands are larger than a toddlers, get someone with small hands to help do the work! Got my wife to help reinstall the bolts to reduce my pain, scarring, and swearing. . Overall, another simple job made maddeningly frustrating by the sadists that design BMW engines...lol.
Interesting note: Bentley manual procedure says remove the fan...that would have definitely saved the back of my hands... |
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07-21-2016, 05:41 AM | #251 |
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My car has just thrown the code 2A82.
The code wasn't present last week and it's just been in for a service so I'm not sure if the garage has caused the code to pop up or perhaps it was a quirk. So after saving the diagnostic file, I've cleared the code and will test to see if it comes back. Only then will I look into fixing Anthony |
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07-26-2016, 05:52 AM | #252 | |
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Wish me luck! |
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07-26-2016, 09:36 AM | #253 | |
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(I've done solenoids, MAF, VVT motor, and the hesitation / rpm dip at take off & taking out of gear is as bad I was before. Check valves are next hence my hopes you'll see results. Never had any codes.)
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07-26-2016, 01:54 PM | #254 | |
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So I cleaned the solenoids with brake cleaner and dried with compressed air. The exhaust had a tiny bit of black crude in a localised area, small spots would be a good description. Installed back and no change in hesitation I will assess the check valves before replacing, and will not replace the solenoids until I've test driven the new check valves. I can easily return the solenoids. If you've done those other bits it makes it likely that I won't have need to replace those parts. Hopefully check valves are the solution. |
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07-26-2016, 02:18 PM | #255 |
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well said (even if I'm now v. skeptical I'll ever get to end of this issue...)
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328i Sports Pkg, Michelin PSS on Staggered 18" OZ Ultraleggeras
. BMS Powerbox. Cyba scoops + Rev motoring intake hose + charcoal delete. Wavetrac LSD . M3: subframe bushings + sways + control arms (fr & rr). Meyle rear toe arms. M3 diff fr bushings . BMW Perf: v2 springs + v1 dampers. Valeo SMFW+clutch. 034 MotorSport engine mounts . Short Shifter + Turner PU bearing + ZHP M weighted shift knob. CDV delete |
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07-26-2016, 03:19 PM | #256 | |
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Release date (dd/mm/yy) 30/09/09 Status Approved Organization GB, CAR Vehicles affected E series E60 E61 E63 E64 E90 E91 E92 Engine N52 N52BO0 N52K Body Production period (from/to) (dd/mm/yy) / Comment on production period Feedback (all cases relating to measure up to) (dd/mm/yy) Complaint An intermittent hesitation or flat spot when accelerating is felt briefly under different driving conditions such as: Pulling away from stationary After a coasting phase When overtaking This complaint appears over a period of time and gets progressively worse. Cause Combination of adaptive values and an early I-Stage or sluggish VVT motor No fault codes are recorded in the DME (or EGS) Measure After confirming the customer complaint and under which driving condition the problem is most obvious, carry out the following work in the specific order: Step 1 1. Program the vehicle with ISTA/P 2.35.1 or higher 2. Clear the DME adaptive values using the diagnosis service function. 3. Switch on the ignition and leave for at least 30 seconds to allow the DK unit adaptation to be carried out - this can usually be heard. 4. Start the engine and allow to idle up to an engine temperature of at least 70°C with no consumers switched on 5. With ISTA/D or the GT1 learn the VVT end stops 6. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes with the vehicle stationary, the transmission in Park and the steering centred (NO consumers switched on). 7. Then with the engine at idle and the car stationary, select Drive, switch on the Air Conditioning and then turn the steering to full left lock and then to full right lock twice in succession. 8. Now drive the vehicle forwards and backwards approximately 5 metres to permit transmission adaptation. 9. Then with the car on a road test drive at a steady 50 - 65 km/h for at least 10 minutes using M2 or M3; then accelerate moderately in 2nd or 3rd gear up to 4000 rpm and decelerate by letting the car roll until reaching engine idle speed; then stop and let engine run at idle speed for 5 minutes, do this two or three times 10. Check the DME statuses to ensure the additive and multiplicative values are OK. 11. Run the engine at idling speed for at least 5 minutes again Now re-evaluate the car for the customer complaint, if the hesitation is no longer present no further action is required. If the hesitation is still present then carry out step 2 Step 2 Replace the VVT motor Taken from: http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...ottle-t148266/ |
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07-26-2016, 03:36 PM | #257 |
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Yes, that is where my very high hopes it was the VVT motor that is causing it - only to replace it and have the same symptoms.
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328i Sports Pkg, Michelin PSS on Staggered 18" OZ Ultraleggeras
. BMS Powerbox. Cyba scoops + Rev motoring intake hose + charcoal delete. Wavetrac LSD . M3: subframe bushings + sways + control arms (fr & rr). Meyle rear toe arms. M3 diff fr bushings . BMW Perf: v2 springs + v1 dampers. Valeo SMFW+clutch. 034 MotorSport engine mounts . Short Shifter + Turner PU bearing + ZHP M weighted shift knob. CDV delete |
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07-26-2016, 03:59 PM | #258 | |
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Not really sure what I will do after the check valves, not sure I want to waste the solenoid money if it isn't going to work...then again I won't know if it works unless I try it |
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07-26-2016, 04:11 PM | #259 |
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You mean the a/c compressor ? given my main symptom - the dip in rpm upon taking off, or when coasting and taking it out of gear - is present w/ the a/c off as well as on I doubt. it. The presence of the a/c does make the dip more severe - in some cases it stalls the engine (try turning w/ no power steering) - but I attribute that to the higher load caused by the a/c.
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328i Sports Pkg, Michelin PSS on Staggered 18" OZ Ultraleggeras
. BMS Powerbox. Cyba scoops + Rev motoring intake hose + charcoal delete. Wavetrac LSD . M3: subframe bushings + sways + control arms (fr & rr). Meyle rear toe arms. M3 diff fr bushings . BMW Perf: v2 springs + v1 dampers. Valeo SMFW+clutch. 034 MotorSport engine mounts . Short Shifter + Turner PU bearing + ZHP M weighted shift knob. CDV delete |
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07-27-2016, 12:29 AM | #260 | |
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/thinking out loud My next thought could be coils, however it would be strange to have all 6 go at once and only when accelerating from a slow speed. If only one went it would be more obvious and occur at different running ranges and sound lumpy, right? I've only read about coils in association with lumpy idle and shaking, which I don't think you have. /end of thinking I should add that I only found the code after an oil change at a local garage, maybe the low pressure on first crank caused the code? If so changing solenoids and/or check valves will have no affect, and the problem of hesitation doesn't go away. Last edited by Rustymage; 07-27-2016 at 02:54 AM.. Reason: Addition of comments |
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07-27-2016, 05:23 AM | #261 |
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Just spoke with my local BMW specialist and they thought it could be an injector. He said the N52 engines were very reliable but injectors are known to fail somewhat. He said a misfire caused by a slight injector fault wouldn't necessarily be picked up by a bystander as a misfire due to it being a 6 cylinder. He really didn't know why a code wouldn't be thrown.
He suggested fuel system cleaner. He also said he'd want to perform a live diagnostic on the car when it was doing it to see if he could narrow the problem down to a cylinder. He suggested the vanos solenoid clean and check valve clean as something that might help. Overall I got the impression that VVT, MAF, ECC sensor etc were very rare. He doesn't have a slot to look at the car for 2 weeks so he said trial the fuel cleaner and if the issue gets better then it was most likely an injector. Otherwise they'd want to inspect plugs and coils, replacing only the damaged ones. My plugs were done 20k miles ago I think. Might be worth a swap... PS- he said supermarket fuel (in the UK) is poor and could cause an issue. |
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07-27-2016, 11:44 AM | #262 | |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=993822 |
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07-27-2016, 12:07 PM | #263 | |
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I have new ones put in at 100k mi (car now has ~112k). The original ones were really in good shape after 100k which made me quite impressed with the N52 engine.
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328i Sports Pkg, Michelin PSS on Staggered 18" OZ Ultraleggeras
. BMS Powerbox. Cyba scoops + Rev motoring intake hose + charcoal delete. Wavetrac LSD . M3: subframe bushings + sways + control arms (fr & rr). Meyle rear toe arms. M3 diff fr bushings . BMW Perf: v2 springs + v1 dampers. Valeo SMFW+clutch. 034 MotorSport engine mounts . Short Shifter + Turner PU bearing + ZHP M weighted shift knob. CDV delete |
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08-21-2016, 08:05 AM | #264 |
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Getting a code: P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-retarded..... Would this be due to the solenoid issues described in this thread?
This P0015 code has been popping quite frequently, but I can't seem to find a style of driving that always prompts it... 1) WOT does NOT always cause it, 2) sometimes driving on the highway in D with cruise control on and going up a slight hill will prompt it, or 2) random driving around town, accelerating from a green light... New mods are only the Dual Cone Intake. I've had the JB+ for about 4months with no issues until this week... 2008 535xi |
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