[1QuikWS6]

Originally Posted by index1489

I love how everyone keeps saying how cheap, look at the price,

Its a freakin piece of Silicone Hose, how much did you guys expect it to cost? $600?

I think more than anything we are amazed/happy that an aftermarket item that costs only $60 fits so perfectly as it should

Usually with BMW you spend a lot more for aftermarket items, & even so, most have questionable fitment...

[ZhengHai]

Just placed my order!

[RoamPT]

I would place it but since I'm in canada this awesome upgrade would cost $83 lol that's a bit high!

[Clammy]

Originally Posted by index1489

Of course I'm referring to California,

CARB = California Air Resource Board

CARB = california air RETARD board.

Visual inspection is stupid, and a waste of time. If the car passes the test, that should be that. Who cares HOW that the within spec emissions are achieved? Leave to the zeroes ruining the state of california to go those 10 extra, useless, steps.

[nycbr]

Even without any increased power the price of the hose may we worth it if the hose makes it easier to get the airbox in and out

[Mike.]

Originally Posted by nycbr

Even without any increased power the price of the hose may we worth it if the hose makes it easier to get the airbox in and out

There was an increase it was like 4hp @ 4k or something like that

[BmerMeUp]

Originally Posted by BMW..

10K repair? Why not just sell it and get a different car

The "repair" is a bumper/grill/rad/hood facelift after another driver impaled my baby on a Seadoo trailer...

[andrey_gta]

Originally Posted by RoamPT

I would place it but since I'm in canada this awesome upgrade would cost $83 lol that's a bit high!

I didnt get any import taxes. What ebay quotes is what I paid.
I hang out in Heartland gatherings, you could get a feel for it there.

[RoamPT]

Originally Posted by andrey_gta

I didnt get any import taxes. What ebay quotes is what I paid.
I hang out in Heartland gatherings, you could get a feel for it there.

Well the $83 is with the item plus shipping. When are those heartland gatherings and where is it? I wouldn't mind to check it out tho.

[ZhengHai]

My first impression after the install was that my exhaust sounded louder. It was a cold start but when it idled down to 600-650 I could still hear a louder rumble than normal. I have afe mid pipes and a muffler delete. When I drove my car the exhaust was louder for sure but the throttle response may have been slightly better if any at all. I'm not sure since I have a XI. I also got the 6 ply if anyone was wondering. For the price, quality, and how simple it was to install I don't see why not

[PHXE90]

Originally Posted by ZhengHai

My first impression after the install was that my exhaust sounded louder. It was a cold start but when it idled down to 600-650 I could still hear a louder rumble than normal. I have afe mid pipes and a muffler delete. When I drove my car the exhaust was louder for sure but the throttle response may have been slightly better if any at all. I'm not sure since I have a XI. I also got the 6 ply if anyone was wondering. For the price, quality, and how simple it was to install I don't see why not

Thanks for the reply! I'm glad to hear that everyone is happy with these.

[ZhengHai]

Originally Posted by PHXE90

Thanks for the reply! I'm glad to hear that everyone is happy with these.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by justpete

The car doesn't have a wideband onboard so they couldn't do any additional tuning. So I'll be making some wot runs with BMWLogger running. I can email the Lambda files to the shop and they can determine if it's worth doing. If so it'll go back to the dyno but this time I'll remember to bring the friggin' cable. Maybe we can scrape up a few more hp here and there. Or not. Either way it's all good.

Any update on this?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Any update on this?

Not yet. BMWLogger isn't working on my laptop any more for some reason, probably something stupid I'm doing but I haven't had time to address it. I did get an Autel MaxiSYS Mini so that's the plan now.

[Taskmaster]

Hmm, awaiting your results.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Hmm, awaiting your results.

Yeah, me too. Been spending a lot of time trying to get the RT DL1 to work directly off the PT-CAN bus. Harsh language has to date proved ineffective. At least they got the firmware sorted out when I shipped it back. Got it Friday but still got something wrong somewhere although the CAN bus feed looks valid on the scope. Had to reconnect the RT OBD II adapter to get the shift lights and gear indicator back on the DASH3 but neither the CAN setup or the OBD II adapter provide Lambda anyway. The live data capability of the Autel will allow capturing it while on the dyno.

Noticed the exhaust tips are showing a slight carbon build-up so it could stand leaning out a bit just based on that. Well, and not so much city driving I guess. Leaning out the engine to stoopid race levels is gonna cause some cooling problems so we're starting the next project now to have C&R Racing build a custom race radiator and oil cooler which they've provided a rough quote on so far. It'll clear the A/C condenser and use AN fittings for the oil lines. Debating on if it should be a pressurized system with an accumulator to keep the coolant pressure in the head as high as possible.

Replacing the oil filter cover with the one from an N54 engine and replacing its cooler line ports with an AN adapter plate to allow for flex SS oil lines. And adding a Bimmerworld adapter to the oil switch port to add oil pressure and temp sensors, same temp sensor goes into an extra M12 port on the radiator, and all wire up to the DL1. And a VAC oil pan baffle will be fitted. Custom silicone radiator lines get installed, too. Adding an Accusump as well.

The BW adapter has shipped, the VAC baffle is on order, sensors and cables are already in, but the radiator will require sending the one in the car to them for three weeks. Can't start any of the work until after the last track day in December. It'll be ready before spring hopefully. Looking to squeeze out 310-330hp net crank out of the engine. Would be cool if we could get away with decking the head just a bit to bring the compression up enough to effectively run 100+ octane.

Going with a CF roof to make the moonroof delete easier. Looking for a decent dual feed GPS antenna for the DL1 and the sharkfin and all associated cabling and module(s) will be deleted. Taking out the AM/FM antenna cabling and modules as well. Reducing the unladen weight to 3000# without changing the appearance of the interior except for swapping in HTE-R shells and pulling the rear seat permanently is also part of the project including swapping in a lightweight battery. And it's still a DD.

[PHXE90]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Any update on this?

Interested as well, any update?

[Taskmaster]

Looked at the results posted again, and the tube adds about 3wtq and 1.5whp at peak. Not bad.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by PHXE90

Interested as well, any update?

Decided not to do any more dyno work as we're going to pull the engine this winter and work it over. Warranty? At this point, who cares.

Taking compression ratio to 11.5:1 with custom pistons and decking the head, VAC head work to make it flow better and run safely at elevated revs, possibly an overbored throttle body, cold range NGK plugs, loose clearance mains and conn rod bearings w/higher weight Red Line oil, and possibly re-cam. Evans coolant with the C&R radiator/oil-cooler, definitely Accusump in the oil system, interior diet to bring unladen weight to 3000lbs, add a half cage after pulling the rear seat, OMP HTE-R seats and Schroth harnesses, custom made thin wall 304 exhaust with lightweight Magnaflow muffler, and a lightweight battery. And whatever else comes up.

Aiming for 330hp effective net crank on 100 octane race fuel. Tune will be done on the dyno by the race team. Will still be streetable on 93 octane. Thinking about pulling the radio/USB system, amp, speakers, etc. since I rarely ever listen to music in the car. But this is Texas so we're keeping the A/C. I mean I'm not nutz or anything. OK, so that's open to debate...

Oh yeah, heard from ATI last week. They'll have the prints ready for review in a week or two so that's a go, thankfully. Won't have to do a full blueprint and balance on the bottom end anyway. And keeping the Performance intake and RM coupler.

And the OE rear brakes get BW solid guide bushings this weekend. Finally.

So it'll be awhile before any new dyno charts get posted, sorry about that.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by justpete

Decided not to do any more dyno work as we're going to pull the engine this winter and work it over. Warranty? At this point, who cares.

Taking compression ratio to 11.5:1 with custom pistons and decking the head, VAC head work to make it flow better and run safely at elevated revs, possibly an overbored throttle body, cold range NGK plugs, loose clearance mains and conn rod bearings w/higher weight Red Line oil, and possibly re-cam. Evans coolant with the C&R radiator/oil-cooler, definitely Accusump in the oil system, interior diet to bring unladen weight to 3000lbs, add a half cage after pulling the rear seat, OMP HTE-R seats and Schroth harnesses, custom made thin wall 304 exhaust with lightweight Magnaflow muffler, and a lightweight battery. And whatever else comes up.

Aiming for 330hp effective net crank on 100 octane race fuel. Tune will be done on the dyno by the race team. Will still be streetable on 93 octane. Thinking about pulling the radio/USB system, amp, speakers, etc. since I rarely ever listen to music in the car. But this is Texas so we're keeping the A/C. I mean I'm not nutz or anything. OK, so that's open to debate...

Oh yeah, heard from ATI last week. They'll have the prints ready for review in a week or two so that's a go, thankfully. Won't have to do a full blueprint and balance on the bottom end anyway. And keeping the Performance intake and RM coupler.

And the OE rear brakes get BW solid guide bushings this weekend. Finally.

So it'll be awhile before any new dyno charts get posted, sorry about that.

I would ditch that BMW Performance setup and go with the DINAN - only because we know it's more similar to what they use on the E9X M. Otherwise, I'm REALLY interested in what comes of the ATI damper, which in your case is probably a safe investment considering the LTW flywheel.

As far as the engine internals, I remember a build on a VQ35, where it was rebuilt to a higher compression and made the exact same power as it did with the standard compression and gained no power. I would probably invest my money into the head and cams and leave the bottom end alone - there isn't much to be gained there.

Have you considered baffling the oil pan? What are the plans with the cams? What about the exhaust - what is the plan there?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

I would ditch that BMW Performance setup and go with the DINAN - only because we know it's more similar to what they use on the E9X M. Otherwise, I'm REALLY interested in what comes of the ATI damper, which in your case is probably a safe investment considering the LTW flywheel.

As far as the engine internals, I remember a build on a VQ35, where it was rebuilt to a higher compression and made the exact same power as it did with the standard compression and gained no power. I would probably invest my money into the head and cams and leave the bottom end alone - there isn't much to be gained there.

Have you considered baffling the oil pan? What are the plans with the cams? What about the exhaust - what is the plan there?

Thanks for the tip on the intake, will look into it. I don't remember seeing anything for this MY on their site though.

The ATI Super Damper should be (might be?) a catalog item once the first one's made I guess. It'll just bolt on to the crank hub. The A/C line will probably have to be slightly relocated. With the billet flywheel _and_ AKG solid engine mounts it's probably a necessity.

Won't be doing so much to the bottom end of the engine other than going to Arrow conn rods, CP pistons, etc. or whatever they prefer in their builds, it's only to gain valve clearance from decking the head. If it balances things out a bit, cool, side benefit. Not planning on boring or stroking the motor.

The key is in changing the valve lift and timing, ignition map, etc. Already talked with AA about it, no worries, just have to provide certain files taken during the dyno runs and they'll optimize it. Then the race guys will tweak the crap out of it and lean it out since the new cooling system will allow it as will the much cooler running plugs. The plugs, btw, are a hundred bucks each. Yeah, seriously.

All the performance comes from retuning to use the increased compression ratio which isn't simple but can be and is done. The question is if the cams are worth it given the limitations of the valvetronics and vanos systems, I have no real idea at this point. And they're purty pricey so they'd have to offer significant power increase but not make the car unstreetable to be worth it.

And the VAC N54 oil pan baffle came in Monday. It'll fit with a little convincing, no worries there.

I asked about the exhaust and they said they build from scratch with thin wall 304 stainless and have a custom Magnaflow muffler that's really light and bolts in without much modification.

[Taskmaster]