[Phil G]

Just installed Koni Yellows this week, and I will first say WOW, it feels like a different car (but in a good way). It feels so much more planted than my ZSP shocks with 82k miles. I haven't really had an opportunity to push the car around turns, but there is WAY less body roll. I have so much more confidence in the car's handling. Another big bonus is that the car doesn't seem to explode going over potholes anymore...Konis handle the impact much better.

Although the ride seems great on smooth roads and much improved over sudden, harsh bumps, the ride is more "nagging" when driving on the very imperfectly paved streets of Downtown/Midtown Atlanta. If there are continuous road imperfections, they seem to reverberate through the car more now. I have the Konis set to 1.25 turns front/1 turn rear from full soft (50% firmness).

I really don't want to have to take off the rears to readjust to full soft. If I set the fronts to full soft (keeping the rears at 50% firmness), would this throw off the car's handling in emergency situations in a dangerous way? Would this negatively affect tire wear with different firmness front/rear? Are there any other bad things that could come from this?

Thanks!

[cvc 22349a]

Your car will pitch more if you reduce rebound damping in the front v. the rear. Everyone's preference is different, but after trying different settings I like 1.5 turns from soft in the front and .75 turn from soft in the rear.
The Koni's definately improve handling and bump/impact absorbtion but also move the car around more on smaller/rolling bumps

[Phil G]

I did some research on other forums too and it looks like softer front creates more oversteer. Actually, I disliked my car's tendency to mildly oversteer to begin with, so this might not be that bad of a thing. Would it cause dangerous oversteer though, or uneven tire wear?

By the way, I would just do this for daily driving. In spirited driving conditions, I would firm up the front for better balance.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by Phil G

I did some research on other forums too and it looks like softer front creates more oversteer. Actually, I disliked my car's tendency to mildly oversteer to begin with, so this might not be that bad of a thing. Would it cause dangerous oversteer though, or uneven tire wear?

By the way, I would just do this for daily driving. In spirited driving conditions, I would firm up the front for better balance.

Since you just installed these I have a question for you. I'm installing the rears now and can't seem to get the lower strut bolt to tighten. Did you have trouble with this? Am I doing something wrong?
It will only twist about twice.

[mike-y]

there could be too much crud/rust built up in the threads that causes the nut to bind. try cleaning the threads with a wirebrush or a small pick and see if that helps.

OR you could be using the wrong nut, with the wrong thread pitch. If your force it, you'll damage the threads on the koni shock.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by mike-y

there could be too much crud/rust built up in the threads that causes the nut to bind. try cleaning the threads with a wirebrush or a small pick and see if that helps.

OR you could be using the wrong nut, with the wrong thread pitch. If your force it, you'll damage the threads on the koni shock.

Thanks for the help! Here are some comparisons of the threads. I'm starting to think I got the wrong shocks for my car cause these threads look wayyy off.
It looks like to me that the thread on the bottom of the koni is equal to the thread on the top of the OEM shock.
The last pic compares the bottom to the top. and the other compares the bottom to the bottom.
Is it going to mess with my car to get a different bolt for the bottom of the strut?

Also, what's weird is if you look at the bottom of the Koni strut,the thread looks different on the very tip than on the rest of the shocks.
I'm confused

[Phil G]

Originally Posted by sn0pea

Since you just installed these I have a question for you. I'm installing the rears now and can't seem to get the lower strut bolt to tighten. Did you have trouble with this? Am I doing something wrong?
It will only twist about twice.

You should have received new nuts for the lower shock mounts. The top mount (in the trunk), uses the factory nut/bushing, but the lower mount has to be replaced with the nut in the box. It is a 17mm nut, but different thread count. Don't use the one that came on the car, you will damage the shock!!

I actually added a washer to the nut that came in the box. Maybe wasn't necessary, but couldn't hurt.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by Phil G

You should have received new nuts for the lower shock mounts. The top mount (in the trunk), uses the factory nut/bushing, but the lower mount has to be replaced with the nut in the box. It is a 17mm nut, but different thread count. Don't use the one that came on the car, you will damage the shock!!

I actually added a washer to the nut that came in the box. Maybe wasn't necessary, but couldn't hurt.

What are the specs on that nut? And do you have any idea where I might be able to buy that?
Ive been to napa and I'm at lowes now and the size that looks closest to fitting is a M10-1.5. That's nowhere near 17. 17 is HUGE. I bought these used so I don't think I was sent any nuts. Thanks for the help man! I really appreciate it!

[luckyu]

Originally Posted by sn0pea

What are the specs on that nut? And do you have any idea where I might be able to buy that?
Ive been to napa and I'm at lowes now and the size that looks closest to fitting is a M10-1.5. That's nowhere near 17. 17 is HUGE. I bought these used so I don't think I was sent any nuts. Thanks for the help man! I really appreciate it!

No way is it 17mm, your guess is probably correct. Boltdepot.com has a printable thread gauge (pdf) that you can use to verify the thread pitch. Worked like a charm for me.

Maybe Koni's service center (rebuild shop) can tell you what the nut size is, and where to source them.

[Phil G]

I used a 17mm socket for the nut and it fit perfectly....same one I use for the wheel studs actually....strange. Let me know what you find, I'm curious. But, I do know I received a replacement nut with each rear Koni.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by luckyu

No way is it 17mm, your guess is probably correct. Boltdepot.com has a printable thread gauge (pdf) that you can use to verify the thread pitch. Worked like a charm for me.

Maybe Koni's service center (rebuild shop) can tell you what the nut size is, and where to source them.

Only problem is that their shop isn't open till Monday and I need to get this gone tomorrow. I'm thinking maybe I can call one of koni's retailers and get the right size.

I actually need to know the exact size though because if I get it even .25 off I'm going to start stripping thread. I cant explain why i need to know well but I do need to know.

[sn0pea]

Does it make sense though that a 10mm bolt is removed with a 17mm socket?

[sn0pea]

I got nothin. Checked online everywhere. Not even their website lists the nut. Bummer. I'll try measuring the pitch myself when I get home.
If you look at the pics above you will see that the thread pitch on the tip of the shocks is bigger than the middle so I'm going to have to muscle through the tip thread to get the nut into the middle where I want it. That's why I need to know the exact pitch, so I don't muscle through that thread and end up with the wrong pitch. If that made any sense

[luckyu]

Originally Posted by sn0pea

Does it make sense though that a 10mm bolt is removed with a 17mm socket?

Yes there are M10 nuts that fit 17mm. There are several standards though, so the width does not determine the thread size.

[luckyu]

Originally Posted by Phil G

I used a 17mm socket for the nut and it fit perfectly....same one I use for the wheel studs actually....strange. Let me know what you find, I'm curious. But, I do know I received a replacement nut with each rear Koni.

I see what you mean. The thread size is the critical dimension and the outer width of the nut doesn't (always) determine the thread size. For example I see M6 and M10 nuts with a 17mm width.

M10 (10 mm) is the most likely thread size, which can have a 17 mm width, so I think we're converging

[luckyu]

"It looks like to me that the thread on the bottom of the koni is equal to the thread on the top of the OEM shock."

I agree and if they're the same then the pitch is 1.0 mm. You'll be able to confirm with the thread gauge.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by luckyu

Yes there are M10 nuts that fit 17mm. There are several standards though, so the width does not determine the thread size.

Tried m10-1.25. I even checked using the chart and I'm sure its 1.25. I'm starting to think the thread is messed up on the shock. Not sure how to fix the thread though. Research time! Unless I'm still just using the wrong thread pitch

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by luckyu

"It looks like to me that the thread on the bottom of the koni is equal to the thread on the top of the OEM shock."

I agree and if they're the same then the pitch is 1.0 mm. You'll be able to confirm with the thread gauge.

You know what's weird, the pitch actually looks a lot like 20 tpi but that's Us measurement, Is Koni a US company? Man, this is confusing

Oh and the pitch, to me, does not look like 1.0mm on the top. Look close but not perfect

Edit: Skip all this, the page I printed off is wrong -_-

[sn0pea]

After all that. The sheet printed off wrong and the upper shock nut led me wrong but I just found a bolt that fit. 10M- 1.00mm. -_- all that work and my first guess was actually right.
Thanks for all the help guys! Really appreciate it! And sry for the thread jack

[mike-y]

looks like the threads have already been partially stripped/screwed up by the previous owner.

Mine also uses a 17mm nut of some sort - I didn't measure the threads, but It came with the shock.

take the good shock to the store and find the correct nut that fits it. Then look for a tap and die set or thread repair tool. You can try "chasing" the threads on the bad shock with a thread cutter of the correct pitch and see if it cleans them up enough to be useable. If you can't get that to work, you can take the shock to a machine shop, and they can do something to help you out.

[sn0pea]

Originally Posted by mike-y

looks like the threads have already been partially stripped/screwed up by the previous owner.

Mine also uses a 17mm nut of some sort - I didn't measure the threads, but It came with the shock.

take the good shock to the store and find the correct nut that fits it. Then look for a tap and die set or thread repair tool. You can try "chasing" the threads on the bad shock with a thread cutter of the correct pitch and see if it cleans them up enough to be useable. If you can't get that to work, you can take the shock to a machine shop, and they can do something to help you out.

Surprisingly I was able to get my shock on fine with the M10- 1.00mm nut. I have one more to go. So we will see if the next goes on without flaw