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Changing oil when warm?
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07-07-2010, 05:32 AM | #1 |
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Changing oil when warm?
Hi guys,
how do I go about changing my oil at a shop? I assume it is not safe to change the oil straight after the car has been driven, because the oil is hot, and could burn someone? But waiting for it to cool takes like 1.5 hours, which seems like a lot of time to wait? So do you wait, or just change it as it is? TIA |
07-07-2010, 06:56 AM | #3 |
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I like to drain once the oil is warmed up a bit (10-15 min. driving around). On left-hand drive cars, the oil drain plug faces the passenger side of the car. Once removed, oil will shoot out a respectable distance so a big drain pan is advisable.
As you remove the drain plug, wear gloves and use caution as the oil is hot. I like to position my body on the driver's side of the car so oil streams away from my body.
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07-07-2010, 07:01 AM | #4 |
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Oil should be changed when it's fairly warm as it'll flow alot better. It's very common to change it warm or hot. How do you think all these quick oil change places like Jiffy lube do it when customers drive in all day?
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07-07-2010, 09:45 AM | #5 | |
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07-07-2010, 09:48 AM | #6 |
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it won't be scolding hot, and if you catch some on your hand it will cool rather quickly. No big deal. Keep a rag handy and don't stand right under the drain plug
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07-07-2010, 01:13 PM | #7 |
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I change mine either Saturday or Sunday morning while the engine is cold then add a half a quart of oil while the drain plug is still off to pick up the leftover used oil.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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07-07-2010, 03:44 PM | #8 |
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The mechanics I know suggest changing the oil when it is warm or even hot to allow more of the old oil to flow out. Any competent shop will be able to change the oil regardless of oil temperature.
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07-07-2010, 03:51 PM | #9 | |
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The oil certainly can be scalding and it will blister skin far faster than you can wipe it off. Ther shouldn't be a problem with changing oil and not pouring it all over yourself though. |
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07-07-2010, 04:04 PM | #10 |
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I've changed oil on a regular basis while working at Nissan and I've gotten plenty oil on my hands from pulling the filter (not just the plug) and I've never lost any skin. Of course it's hot, just don't hold your hand under a steady stream of it.
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07-07-2010, 07:06 PM | #11 |
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haha, the oil will be scalding hot... anyways get it hot, let it cool for half an hour to 45 then do it. You can do it hot just make sure your mechanic wears gloves, a hoody, and has a big ratchet. I've done it, but it's exactly safe.
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07-13-2010, 09:17 AM | #12 | |
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You've never changed your own oil before, have you? The oil is warm, but generally its not any hotter than a cup of coffee from a drip coffee maker. I've gotten plenty of oil on me, but I've never been burned from it. |
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07-13-2010, 02:00 PM | #13 |
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Agree with what was said above, trackrat... But to msrothwell?!?!?!?!?!?!? Start your engine for 5 minutes and do an oil change and see if you get burned by touching the supposedly warm oil!!! I've done engine swaps, hundreds of oil changes, brakes, assembled top ends of engines, all sorts of engine gaskets, transmissions servicing, and hundreds of other things. I have a built muscle car!!! Do you even have tools. Plus when doing an oil change depending on exhaust location you definitely have to let it cool off. Filters on some engines are very close to the manifolds or headers. My 325i is easy to do, but you can easily burn yourself unscrewing the drain plug... Ever have an oil temp gauge in your car, that's how hot your oil is!!!
Last edited by E90 87ss; 07-13-2010 at 03:23 PM.. |
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07-13-2010, 03:23 PM | #14 |
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It is very uncomfortable (and dangerous) working under a "hot" car with hot oil. The only purpose of warming the engine is for oil flow. If you are not in a rush then it doesn't matter. Even when the engine is cold the oil flows pretty quickly, that's why I change my oil when the engine is cold and then use about 1/2 quart to flush the old oil out of there. When I change my oil I don't do it like Jiffy Lube and try to get my car out of the garage in a hurry. While it is draining I check the other fluids, perform a visual inspection, wipe the engine down etc., then put the drain plug back in and refill.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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07-14-2010, 11:22 AM | #15 | |
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With that said, the drain plug is generally pretty hot. I use the socket without the wrench to finish unscrewing it. |
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