[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

So I bought a 2006 325i N52 E90 Sedan, super clean with only 68k miles on it. I got it really cheap off of the auction but the damage was a bit hard. It got hit in the top part of the hood and reached the alternator enough to break the bolts. I replaced the alternator and timing belt, as well as the pulley since it had some gouges and didn't want to ruin another timing belt. I replaced the BST (electric safety shut off) and started it up and worked perfectly fine. Shut it off to attach the air box and now won't start. Sent it to the shop and they're saying I need a new ECU. I bought a used ECU/CAS/key and still won't give me spark. I'm getting a couple of codes (2A9A/2A9B) which are camshaft codes but would that cause a no spark? I can smell gas when I crank the car and I get an RPM signal on the dash but nothing after that. I'm just at loss with this thing

[Unknown_Car]

There is a bst cable that goes to the battery (positive) replace it. Or bend it so it has a good connection. That was the problem when I got my 335i from iaai was same thing.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Originally Posted by Roma_335i

There is a bst cable that goes to the battery (positive) replace it. Or bend it so it has a good connection. That was the problem when I got my 335i from iaai was same thing.

I replaced it and now all it does is crank, no spark. Should I have to replace it again? When it was blown I would only get electricity/power but no crank.

[Unknown_Car]

Originally Posted by MR.BLUECOLLARMAN

I replaced it and now all it does is crank, no spark. Should I have to replace it again? When it was blown I would only get electricity/power but no crank.

No I would not replace again. Man its hard to tell what it is. Did you flood it Maybe? Feom to much crancking? I have seen this before in our shop.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Took out the spark plugs, cleaned them off and tried to check again and no spark. I'm just not sure what is stopping the ECU from sending spark. I replaced all airbags and seat belts and reset it with ISTA. Would timing chain off do this!?

[Unknown_Car]

Replace the crankshaft position sensor ( cranck position sensor) I beat that's all it is. There is few people that had that problem... but it wasn't from accident... yours could of got a hit... so I would replace it and see if it dose anything.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Already replaced it, I have rpm signal on dash and on the computer. Roughly 300rpms. I bought mine from Oreillys though and everyone has been saying it's not the same as OEM from dealer?

[Unknown_Car]

It's the same I belive. I know that napa here where I live they supply dealers also. And I don't know what to tell you man. Look for a diagram that shows all the stuff related to give spark and check for power.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

What would cause intake camshaft code? I get 2A9A and 2A9B

[hassmaschine]

Is your cas synched with the dme? There will be no sark unless the ISN and rolling codes match.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

I synched it with ISTA and it said it completed but everytime I try to check the communication it says the rolling code is invalid. That's why I got the spare ecu/CAS/key. Would that let me get at least spark?

[hassmaschine]

If the rolling code is invalid, something is wrong, and also that will give you no spark.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

So what should I look at? Wiring? I'm not sure what would cause an invalid rolling code even with a replacement dme and CAS with matching key?

[hassmaschine]

Are you sure the cas and dme are from the same car?

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

The original CAS/dme are original. I started it the first time and worked fine. The donor CAS/dme I'm not sure but it doesn't give me any errors other than the DSC vin number not matching.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

UPDATE! So I started to mess around with the camshaft sensors today since it keeps throwing a intake code. Everytime I "reset engine adaptions" the engine will stutter for the first two seconds as if it wants to fire but the ECU shuts it off. So I looked at the specs while its cranking and it goes to 113 rpms and then shuts off. I think I'm missing teeth off my crank

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Are you sure the cas and dme are from the same car?

I was looking at all of my adaptations through the INPA screens and this popped up and my VVT is at 175 grad (I'm guessing degrees) . Is that normal? And when I crank it all it does is jump the RPMs from 113 and then shuts off to 0.

[Hacksaw]

Are you truly getting a signal from the crank sensor?

seems there is something initially but then nothing if I am reading your post correctly.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Originally Posted by Hacksaw

Are you getting a signal from the crank sensor?

seems there is something initially but then nothing if I am reading your post correctly.

Yes I'm getting an RPM signal but I'm not quite sure what the target range is. It reaches approximately 113-200 rpms and then goes to 0

[smallseafishie]

Was it a new OEM camshaft sensor you installed? I'd try another one if it were me.

[MR.BLUECOLLARMAN]

Originally Posted by smallseafishie

Was it a new OEM camshaft sensor you installed? I'd try another one if it were me.

Brand new from Oreillys "OEM" it cost me $85 for the camshaft sensors and 120$ for the CKP.

[smallseafishie]

Originally Posted by MR.BLUECOLLARMAN

Brand new from Oreillys "OEM" it cost me $85 for the camshaft sensors and 120$ for the CKP.

It's "OE" replacement. I've had my fair share of autozone / advanced OE replacement failures. When it comes sensitive electronics, I just get the dealer ones or the one from the manufacturer that makes it for the dealer branded ones.

I sincerely believe it's your issue, especially since you're getting intermittent errors for it.