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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > rubbing compound gone wrong... what to do?



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      05-30-2011, 11:04 PM   #1
klaasjoe
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rubbing compound gone wrong... what to do?

Hey guys my black 335 had really bad water spots so my buddy told me to use rubbing compound to get them out. well I did and it got the water spots off but now it looks like it is scratched all over the hood. I tried black wax already and it helped a little but it looks awful. Any ideas of what to do??
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      05-30-2011, 11:12 PM   #2
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do u have any pics? =)
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      05-30-2011, 11:14 PM   #3
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Rubbing compound? serously? That stuff is designed to strip thick oxidization and even strip paint off a car. He meant clay bar or buffing compound. You'll need to take the car to get professionally buffed.
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      05-30-2011, 11:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legion5 View Post
Rubbing compound? serously? That stuff is designed to strip thick oxidization and even strip paint off a car. He meant clay bar or buffing compound. You'll need to take the car to get professionally buffed.

+1 i think u may have ruined the finish..u should have followed this

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4891
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      05-30-2011, 11:43 PM   #5
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Ummm, so explain to me why you used WAX after you just scratched your hood with rubbing compound. Were you trying to hide it? Because even if it did work, which obviously it didnt...the scratches would reappear once the wax wore off.

I have no idea why your friend told you to use rubbing compound. He must really hate you...he might as well have told you to rub dry 800 grit sandpaper all over your hood. What could have been a decently easy DIY correction, you just now made into a job that could potentially cost you hundreds to rectify. I can't say for sure, as you didn't provide any pictures of the damage, but I do know that traditional rubbing compound is usually between 800-1000 grit. That, plus the fact that you clearly have no idea what you're doing, leads me to believe that this really is as bad as it sounds.

My advice is to take it to a local detail shop and ask them if the surface is salvageable via buffing. If not, then your only option is to repaint. Repainting is obviously worse case scenario (eg. you sat there and rubbed in the compound with a circular buffer for a while).

I wish I could say the words "That'll buff right out", but in this case I would be a liar if I said something as confident as that.
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      05-30-2011, 11:58 PM   #6
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wetsand with 2000/1000 and polish. done and done. you didn't ruin shit.
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      05-30-2011, 11:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by express705 View Post
wetsand with 2000/1000 and polish. done and done. you didn't ruin shit.
Yeah, until he tells you that he used a circular buffer on his hood in the baking sun...lol
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      05-31-2011, 12:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by express705 View Post
wetsand with 2000/1000 and polish. done and done. you didn't ruin shit.
Thats a pretty bold statement w/o seeing any pics..either way the OP shouldnt do ANYTHING himself..he needs to take to a professional who knows what hes doing..b/c hes shown he doesnt
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      05-31-2011, 03:42 AM   #9
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What was the compound used and method used to apply?
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      06-01-2011, 10:52 PM   #10
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We really need you guys to go a bit lighter on the OP. His friend probably had satisfactory(to him) results or simply repeated what we have allll seen on forums before - "buff it out with rubbing compound and wax it" right?

Sounds like the OPs paint is probably a bit too soft for the super aggressive "compounds" that are found OTC. For the OP, the reason it looks scratched is simply because the abrasive in the compound are very large and just much too rigid and harsh for the situation you had, plus coupled with the softness of your paint. Micromarring is what we call it, yours just sounds to be very bad - again, due to the product.

If the paint is indeed that soft, removing the marring might be realistically achievable by hand ifyou have access to something considerably less aggressive over the counter and use the proper techniques of working by hand
- even flat pressure as you work north/south then east west
- small amount for a small area
- lightening up on the pressure as the product begins to exhaust remove and inspect

It is worth noting as the others have mentioned, professional rectification might be the easier solution provided said detailer actually knows what he/she is doing.

I will send you the contact information of a standout detailer in the LA area and he will definitely be able to let you know what your situation is.

Mike
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      06-02-2011, 02:16 AM   #11
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^ I'm with Mike on this. Sounds like micro-marring AKA compounding haze.
I'm guessing Meguiar's D300 with the microfiber pads and then a finishing polish or even Meguiar's 105 and then 205 will work wonders.
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      06-02-2011, 06:18 AM   #12
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i doubt he ruined his paint by hand w compound.

take it to a professional and get it fixed.
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      12-16-2014, 11:08 PM   #13
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Surface prep and a good sealant will be more important than the last stage of wax. P21s is a solid choice and is a nice value, can't go wrong with that.
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