[07tundra]

Just did the rear one today with the rod method it worked! But the front was really difficult to locate the bolts. Car feels great!

[Faredo]

2010 with 65k. no rattle at all on either.

[mrmax1984]

Originally Posted by bimmerlove335

8mm ID washers. I just bought the standard metric flat washers from Lowes. They are about .1in thick. I'm sure any standard 8mm washer will do.

I assume you applied two washers per bolt?

[JustDriveIt]

I did the rear wastegate fix method by twisting the rod and the front fix by adding the washer and it completely removed my wastegate rattle. Now I get to hear burbles and pops on downshifts instead of metal death.

[mxchris727]

No noises here; turbos replaced at 30K with the updated versions. Now at 97K and all is well.

[tylerboland01]

54k miles on my 08 and its as quiet as a mouse, with the exception of my single mass flywheel.

[NotQuickEnough]

Looking to do the front washer method. So just to confirm the washers go between the mounting plate and the turbo? So looking at it from the front of the car would be: bolt, mounting plate, 2 washers, mounting location/turbo?

Cheers

[Fred_Boosted]

2010 51k miles, no rattle.

[bimmerlove335]

Originally Posted by NotQuickEnough

Looking to do the front washer method. So just to confirm the washers go between the mounting plate and the turbo? So looking at it from the front of the car would be: bolt, mounting plate, 2 washers, mounting location/turbo?

Cheers

Correct. This effectively lengthens the actuator rod, which takes up slack.

[Kevinl]

Wastegate rattle here

[McGee]

2010 N54 with101k miles, been tuned and on E85 since 45k. No rattle on my stock turbos that I can hear. The car certainly hasn't been without problems, but wastegate rattle hasn't been one.

[mweisdorfer]

I went and bought SS, 8mm washers at Lowes the other day as well as a 4 & 4.5mm, and 10mm stubby wrench for rear actuator rod. Might do this project this weekend.

I am thinking of using white out to mark rear actuator rod so I know how far I have rotated it.

I assume the bolts on the front actuator are 10mm?

I have 140k on original turbos. There is some rattle on both turbos.

[Beisofmarko]

-06 100k miles here.
New stock turbos and rattling like crazy on accerelation, especially after vrsf catless dp install.

I believe it's coming from front turbo since only rattles on accerelation?
Thinking about trying washer method mentioned above aswell at some point.

[djbobbless]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I went and bought SS, 8mm washers at Lowes the other day as well as a 4 & 4.5mm, and 10mm stubby wrench for rear actuator rod. Might do this project this weekend.

I am thinking of using white out to mark rear actuator rod so I know how far I have rotated it.

I assume the bolts on the front actuator are 10mm?

I have 140k on original turbos. There is some rattle on both turbos.

Front actuator bolts are 12mm and surprisingly easier than I thought to get to after you pull out the radiator fan + vacuum tanks. I honestly had more trouble putting the radiator fan back more than getting to the bolts lol.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by djbobbless

Front actuator bolts are 12mm and surprisingly easier than I thought to get to after you pull out the radiator fan + vacuum tanks. I honestly had more trouble putting the radiator fan back more than getting to the bolts lol.

Lol.

I here ya, on the radiator fan. I have found, it's easier to guide it down from underneath the car.

[OlliD]

Originally Posted by djbobbless

Front actuator bolts are 12mm and surprisingly easier than I thought to get to after you pull out the radiator fan + vacuum tanks. I honestly had more trouble putting the radiator fan back more than getting to the bolts lol.

Although I read the entire "front actuator" thread, could you please go into more detail what tools & techniques you were using ?

Did you remove the under tray cover ? or everything doable from "above & front of motor" (after removing Fan & vacuum tanks) ?

[djbobbless]

Originally Posted by OlliD

Although I read the entire "front actuator" thread, could you please go into more detail what tools & techniques you were using ?

Did you remove the under tray cover ? or everything doable from "above & front of motor" (after removing Fan & vacuum tanks) ?

Following items were removed on my adjustment.
1. Under tray cover
2. Vacuum tanks (be careful on the hoses to the tanks, the plastic tends to be very weak from age)
3. Radiator fan

Once all of these were out, you can clearly see the top bolt you need to slip washers on from the passenger side fender. I simply used a 12mm deep socket with two extensions. I want to say it was a 6" + 3" extension. Basically I slipped the socket over the bolt first then slid on my ratchet. Bottom one is a bit more difficult to find but if you look directly above the waterpump you'll locate the bottom wastegate actuator bolt. Same method here, slip on the socket + extensions before breaking the bolt loose. If you don't want to cut the washers to slip them on, simple hold the tip of your extension and carefully guide the bolt back in without the washers falling off.

Like I said, I really think the radiator fan or the removal of the under tray took more effort than adjusting the front turbo

Be sure to use plenty of lighting! You'll locate the bolts quickly.

[djbobbless]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Lol.

I here ya, on the radiator fan. I have found, it's easier to guide it down from underneath the car.

Good idea. It's that darn intercooler upper pipe to the chargepipe that always gets in the way.

[OlliD]

Originally Posted by djbobbless

Following items were removed on my adjustment.
1. Under tray cover
2. Vacuum tanks (be careful on the hoses to the tanks, the plastic tends to be very weak from age)
3. Radiator fan
.....

Thank you for this response

I was wondering how to get the radiator fan out because it seems on the right side there is an AT Trans cooler thing (or oil cooler?) attached to the fan ? I mean I cannot see the bottom right spot where the fan should slip in, so I decided I was too scary last weekend :-((
Every "how to" I found seems to only loosen one screw on the passenger side and after removing electrical plug und the coolant return line, you can simply take out the radiator fan. In my case it looks different... or am I mistaken eventually?

[bimmerlove335]

Originally Posted by OlliD

Thank you for this response

I was wondering how to get the radiator fan out because it seems on the right side there is an AT Trans cooler thing (or oil cooler?) attached to the fan ? I mean I cannot see the bottom right spot where the fan should slip in, so I decided I was too scary last weekend :-((
Every "how to" I found seems to only loosen one screw on the passenger side and after removing electrical plug und the coolant return line, you can simply take out the radiator fan. In my case it looks different... or am I mistaken eventually?

There is one T20 or T25 screw holding the cooler onto the fan. Simply unscrew the fastener and then follow the rest of the procedure.
Note: There will be a rubber grommet holding the lower charge pipe onto the fan so you will have to undo that before the fan will slide out. I prefer to uninstall my upper charge pipe to allow movement and just pop the lower pipe off the fan.

And also don't forget to unlatch the clip on the drivers side as you're pulling up. You can see it down by the lower charge pipe, just pull towards the firewall.

12mm hex bolts hold the front actuator, use 8mm washers.

The hard part for me was actually maneuvering the washers into position. Not sure how other people seem to do it so effortlessly. The first time removing the fan is a learning experience, after that it will always be easy.

[jsborn]

Looks like there's a split between early and late engines.

My experience matches that: I had a 2007 335i CPO in 2010 that was in and out of the dealer for weeks with wastegate rattles and software-caused turbo lag. But my 2013 335is CPO has never rattled or lagged. It has, however, received new turbos under warranty due to the wastegates not sealing properly. But they never rattled.