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Getting ready to do a detail....
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06-21-2013, 09:19 AM | #1 |
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Getting ready to do a detail....
Hello All,
I have been doing what I call a "detail" on my car just about weekly since I bought it, but I think it is about time to do a real detail on it. I usually wash it by hand, blow dry with the leaf blower, dry the rest by hand with a waffle weave micro, and then wax or detail with dodo juice. I have noticed, especially since winter, that the car has a lot of little scratches/swirls in the paint when you look at it up close. It also has a fair amount of water spots that can only be seen up close, so I think claying it would be a good idea too. I was considering getting the porter cable 7424xp, and I was wondering what pads/size you would recommend for it. I believe I read that it is a three step or so process of going over it. Also, I am assuming that a liquid polishing compound would be added during one of the final stages, correct? What do you recommend? Yes, I have searched, and searched, and searched, but I would still like some input as to what each of have found most effective (pads, size, etc.). I can post a picture of my paint if you would like. Thank you! |
06-21-2013, 10:39 AM | #3 |
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get a 5" backing plate with 5.5" pads and maybe 3" bp with 3-4" pads for smaller areas. meguiars m105/m205 is a great combo. i've heard and seen good things with menzerna sip and sf but haven't tried it personally.
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06-21-2013, 10:48 AM | #4 | |
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People have a tendency to grab the largest hammer they could find for a job because they feel that it will be quicker. This is simply not the case. Always start with the least aggressive approach and work your way up. You will need several pads (Cutting, Polishing, Finishing) and it is a good idea to have 3-4 of each. It is good to have several polishes (aggressive, medium, fine) but for most people it is not necessary. A medium polish like Menzerna PF2500 should remove most moderate defects and SF4000 should take care of the fine swirls as well as the water spots. But...... you never really know for sure until you do a test spot. A Swirl Remover like Wolfgang TSR is a good alternative. Product is important to a certain degree but don't get too hung up on it. Everyone will have his own favorites. Good techniques could overcome poor products but no products in the world could overcome poor techniques. Prior to actually doing the machine polishing, read up on the techniques involve. DA Polishing is not rocket science and anyone can do it but it requires patience. Don't expect a show car finish first time out since this is not realistic. Don't expect this to be a quick 2-3 hours project because it won't be. Good Luck.
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06-21-2013, 11:27 AM | #5 | |
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06-21-2013, 11:50 AM | #6 |
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Awesome info guys! Thank you.
What type of cutting pad would you recommend? I'm thinking about skipping the claying and going straight to the cutting process and then pollishing with Menzerna PF2500. |
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06-21-2013, 12:15 PM | #7 | |
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To make the claying process easier, you might also want to look into using IronX or Trix on the paint prior to claying. Like I said earlier, you never really know for sure which pad and product combination will work. Do a test spot and this will determine if your approach/process is the one that would yield the best result. If possible, check your work against a good light source after a IPA wipe down. As far as pads are concern....... look into the Lake Country Hydro-tech line of pads. Very simple system. The line offer 3 pads (Cyan-cutting, Tangerine-polishing, Crimson-finishing). If you are using a PC, get the low profile version 7/8" ( the thinner pads with lower mass will give the machine more leverage ). good Luck.
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Last edited by psnt1ol; 06-21-2013 at 12:23 PM.. |
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06-21-2013, 12:17 PM | #8 | |
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06-21-2013, 12:27 PM | #9 | |
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As far as pads are concern....... look into the Lake Country Hydro-tech line of pads. Very simple system. The line offer 3 pads (Cyan-cutting, Tangerine-polishing, Crimson-finishing). If you are using a PC, get the low profile version 7/8" ( the thinner pads with lower mass will give the machine more leverage ). For more aggressiveness, MF pads are the next step but this is a separate discussion for a later time.
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06-21-2013, 08:34 PM | #10 | |
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06-21-2013, 09:46 PM | #11 | |
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4 to 6 oz of products should be enough for doing the entire vehicle. For your first time out...you might use a bit more. It looks like I have to redo my car as well. I took my car in for service today. I told them not to wash it. They washed it and now I have the dealer installed swirls option on my car. Not a single panel escape the wrath. I guess this is what I will be doing on the next available weekend. If you live closer to me, I would invite you to come over to witness the process first hand.
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06-21-2013, 10:16 PM | #12 | |
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I really hate the dealer washes, although, my dealer just installed a new touchless wash. I have yet to try that. Hand washing is the way to go if you can spare the time. |
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06-21-2013, 10:42 PM | #13 | |
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Like I said... I told them not to but they did anyway. I think I will have some signs made and tape them to the car next time. You are right about hand washing... I tried to teach that (2 buckets handwash) to every client I meet. Some listens and some don't.
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06-22-2013, 07:15 AM | #15 |
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06-22-2013, 09:28 AM | #16 |
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The Griots Garage D/A is just as easy to use but has more correction power.
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06-24-2013, 10:37 AM | #17 |
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Here is what I have (or will have once it arrives), and the process I will be using:
Wash: - IronX entire vehicle, rinse - Gilmour Foam Gun - Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss - MF towel for washing - Rinse Dry: - Blow dry with leaf blower - Dry remaining water with waffle weave MF Clay: - DI Accessories Fine Grade Clay 100g - Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe (S&W) (clay lubricant) Polish: - PC 7424XP - 5.5" Lake Country Pads from DI - Tangerine > Crimson; Cyan if needed (on deeper scratches probably) - Menzerna PF2500 for first stage polishing - Menzerna Super Finish Polish SF 4000 16oz for final polish Wax: - Dodo Juice Purple Haze Soft Wax from DI - 30 ml (bought two (2) 30ml containers to test it before buying the 250ml canister) - Apply with MF - Buff off with MF Rubber Treatment: - 303 Aerospace Protectant from DI - 16 oz I bought a lot of the liquids from DI (Detailed Image). They have 25% off all regularly priced items right now. Please let me know if you have any suggestions/comments on what I am planning so far. I will probably start the process later this week once I receive everything. Here are a couple pictures of my current paint scratches: |
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06-24-2013, 05:59 PM | #18 | |
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You could save a bit of time in your process if you wash your car first then apply IronX follow with a good rinse. Move the car indoor immediately to start the next phrase. Your car don't have to be bone dry for the claying process so just go over it with a waffle weave MF to save even more time. Blow Drying is good as part of a maintenance wash process but since you will be buffing out the car anyway.....it's really not necessary. I am pretty sure you could apply the Wax with your DA. The PC is a great wax spreader (Crimson Pad). Your goal here is to lay down a thin layer. A thick layer is just a waste of product since most of it will be taken off later at the removal process. If you like.... think about laying several thin layers with a bit of time in between for the wax to cure. Take your time since this is not a one day project. And most importantly....Have Fun. Good Luck.
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06-24-2013, 08:00 PM | #19 |
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Whatever you do, PLEASE don't put 303 on your door seals. I honestly found the 530 gsm grey towels from AG to much better for drying. I still get swirls from a waffle weave. What pad are you using for SF4000? IronX after you wash and dry. Rinse the car after IronX and go straight to claying without drying. You shouldn't have wasted your money on the Dodo's. There are a lot better waxes out there for a lot less.
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06-24-2013, 10:01 PM | #20 | |
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Would I buff the wax off between layers, or put one layer on top of the other? |
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06-24-2013, 10:04 PM | #21 | |
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I find that the waffle weave puts swirls in as well. That's why I like to use the glass sheeting method and blow drying, but I like the idea of claying while it is still wet. I will be putting the sf4000 on with the crimson pad most likely. |
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06-24-2013, 10:05 PM | #22 |
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Yes you would buff off the wax before each layer. Depending on the wax, there may be a "cure" time which is very different from the "dry" time. "Dry" time is when the wax comes to a haze and is ready to be buffed off. "Cure" time is the time after buffing that the wax will settle onto the surface to harden and bond properly onto the paint. For optimal results, it's best to let the wax "cure" before adding additional layers. Or does this apply to sealants only? Can anyone confirm?
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