[tomtom]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

I think "Orb" was talking about the front mounts here, not the rears.

Harold,
what should I replace them with?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by tomtom

Harold,
what should I replace them with?

The front mounts? Use a quality camber/caster plate.

[Dangerlucas]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

The front mounts? Use a quality camber/caster plate.

I'm curious, which ones would you suggest?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Dangerlucas

I'm curious, which ones would you suggest?

Vorshlag, best bang for your buck!

[kipawariver]

I have been following the suspension forums for a while and I think I have a decision made thanks to the excellent work done here by all the regular posters. The Vorshlag is a new one for me. They look like an excellent quality product that is well thought out and manufactured. I understand the importance of a better controlled upper strut fixing point but are these too rigid for a spirited daily driver on less than ideal roads? Suggestions? Thanks again for the excellent posts.

[Dangerlucas]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

Vorshlag, best bang for your buck!

Okay, that's what I was thinking I would do, but when discussing it in my review thread (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228333) Orb mentioned that he would steer clear of them:

Originally Posted by Orb

As for camber plates, I would steer clear of Vorshlag camber plates. The engineering is good since they address thrust and do not have a fixed spring perch. The problem with these plates is that you lose over 1/3” of travel and the stack height is off by a lot. The end result of the stack height being off so much is over preloading the main spring and loss of droop travel and already helped one to many people with suspension problem because of lack of droop travel. The oversight is pretty much incompetence. The KW camber plates are the best I seen in the so far as deal with thrust and have compliance to compensate for spring binding. They are relatively noise free. Avoid any fixed perch camber plates and if do encounter them throw them in the trash with the greatest amount force.

Orb

Given what Orb had to say would you still recommend them?

[Orb]

Originally Posted by Dangerlucas

Okay, that's what I was thinking I would do, but when discussing it in my review thread (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228333) Orb mentioned that he would steer clear of them:



Given what Orb had to say would you still recommend them?

There is nothing wrong with the engineer of the Vorshlag camber plates but they don’t know how to measure. As mention in that thread at least one race teams encountered problems what I already know. I actually bought them first run and they were out by over an inch so it was obvious they did not even check the application….a bit of joke so I sent them back. They mention they are on their 2nd revision and thye still have it wrong. Buy them, you will lose compression travel, droop travel and have the wrong stack height. It is not that hard to measure to meet OEM stock height. The proper camber plate will be 11-13 mm lower than the OEM stock height due to deflection at the isolator.

FWIW, it amazing how many vendors can design bad camber plates as it no that difficult execute a good on.

Orb

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Dangerlucas

Okay, that's what I was thinking I would do, but when discussing it in my review thread (http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228333) Orb mentioned that he would steer clear of them:



Given what Orb had to say would you still recommend them?

I don't think you are going to find anything better or to "Orb's" specs at that price level.

In addition, Vorshlag had made some changes since "Orb's" first purchase and is better now.

Alternatively, you can spend $150 more for TCK and is still not perfect.

We will just have to make some compromises here or have "Orb" design a camber/caster plate, but will likely be out of most people's reach in terms of price.

[Mr. 5]

What about the pin at top?
I've heard different things about this but I'd like to get your opinions.

Some say that by popping the pin out, moving the the 3 bolts, and tightening them will increase the negative camber.
Others say that by doing this is a bad idea because the pin helps to align the strut.

What's different by doing this when compared to adding the camber plates?
At first, I thought that the pin helps keep the strut in place, but now I don't know for sure.

[tomtom]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

I don't think you are going to find anything better or to "Orb's" specs at that price level.

In addition, Vorshlag had made some changes since "Orb's" first purchase and is better now.

Alternatively, you can spend $150 more for TCK and is still not perfect.

We will just have to make some compromises here or have "Orb" design a camber/caster plate, but will likely be out of most people's reach in terms of price.

i called KW. no e92 335i camber plates. only for M3. if i change to linear springs can use M3 camber plates but $900 for pair!
Are TCK a lot better?
Vorshlag are about $430

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by tomtom

i called KW. no e92 335i camber plates. only for M3. if i change to linear springs can use M3 camber plates but $900 for pair!
Are TCK a lot better?
Vorshlag are about $430

Or you can upgrade to their "Clubsport" which come with camber plates as well.

No, TCK is just cost more, it's not better. You get what you pay for these days. Everything is a compromise.

[Bullitt]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

What about the pin at top?
I've heard different things about this but I'd like to get your opinions.

Some say that by popping the pin out, moving the the 3 bolts, and tightening them will increase the negative camber.
Others say that by doing this is a bad idea because the pin helps to align the strut.

What's different by doing this when compared to adding the camber plates?
At first, I thought that the pin helps keep the strut in place, but now I don't know for sure.

Popping the pin will offer only a slight increase in negative camber, whereas camber plates will provide much more. There really is no drawback to removing the pin, but it's probably best to have it done before a scheduled alignment.

[Mr. 5]

BTW guys, I just had an allignment done and wanted to say that I did increase the negative camber.
My left camber went from -.3 to -.9 degrees and the right went from -3 to -8 degrees so I'm pretty happy.
I'll update the initial post.

[Gooby]

So here's a question I have the Hotchkis front sway,Koni Yellow w/H&R sport springs, and the M3 front wishbone kit just waiting to be installed by my mechanic. What settings should I dial in on the shocks? With me doing all this front end stuff and not really touching the rear affect my drive? Also any alignment specs? that you could recommend?

[marconi118]

Originally Posted by tomtom

i called KW. no e92 335i camber plates. only for M3. if i change to linear springs can use M3 camber plates but $900 for pair!
Are TCK a lot better?
Vorshlag are about $430

Is it possible to use the OEM M3 camber plates on the 335i with original springs?

[stressdoc]

Any opinions on the KMAC?

KMAC Front Camber/Caster Plates (Pair) - Stage 2 (Street/Race) - Fit most BMWs
This Stage 2 kit is recommend for street / race use. Manufactured from aluminum alloy, it includes a pillowball and urethane bushings. These weigh in at only 2.2 lbs (1 kilo), so they are lightweight. Adjustments can be made very easily, with NO JACKING or disassembly necessary! These plates provide up to three degrees of negative camber. Great for driving schools and some race applications.

[wrh3]

Thanks to Orb, Mr 5, and Harold for the info in these M3 suspension parts threads- noticeable difference after installing the M3 wishbone and tension links months ago on our 335.

I've had the brace for a while but just have not had time to install it. I knew before I ordered the brace that the plastic cap for the passenger side did not appear to snap into the metal strut brace mount since the driver and passenger side mounts were different, but the caps were the same. I will be doing downpipes in the next few days and may have to install the O2 fix, I figured I would go ahead and fix the passenger side plastic cap to work like I wanted it to since I would install the new brace while I had things apart to get to the ECU.

I traced one of the small prongs on to masking tape and cut it out so I would have a template front and back for reference. I used a Dremel tool with a sanding disc to gradually and carefully remove material from the large prong until it matched the smaller ones. Only took about 20 minutes and now it is symmetrical with the driver side.....I know, I am pretty AR.

[Mr. 5]

Looks great man. I ended up doing the same thing.

[cpt97m3]

For anyone who has replaced these two front arms with the M3 parts, once you remove the nut on the ball joint end, how hard is it to pop out the ball joint stud? Any tips?

[Richwm]

Originally Posted by cpt97m3

For anyone who has replaced these two front arms with the M3 parts, once you remove the nut on the ball joint end, how hard is it to pop out the ball joint stud? Any tips?

Use a pickle fork and a hamer and they should pop right off.

[cpt97m3]

Originally Posted by Richwm

Use a pickle fork and a hamer and they should pop right off.

Well I've got a pickle fork and a BFH. When I've done that in the past, it ends up tearing the rubber boot. Granted, that's on the part I'm removing, but I only have a few miles on mine, and I'd like to keep the rubber boots intact if possible. Do they pop off easy enough that the pickle fork doesn't tear the rubber boot, or will I just have to live with that?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Richwm

Use a pickle fork and a hamer and they should pop right off.

Do not use a pickle fork!!!! The joint should slide out of the spindle with ease.