[ecs0set]

Another 9 hours of installation and it's working. Some more notes for the aid of future installers:

1) The rest of the install went mainly to plan. I couldn't get the head unit back in with the quadlock connectors behind it. Instead we moved the whole radio frame forward a bit, shoved the quadlock to the left hand side and then remounted the frame. Added another 30 mins but solved the space issue!
2) I removed the entire glovebox to get the cabling from the head unit to the passenger door sill. It's relatively easy with just the 6 visible torx screws and a few cables to disconnect.
3) I mounted the amp 180 degrees to the OP. The fan is then next to the boot vents and the speaker and power cables have a shorter run.
4) The factory ground location is on the inner rear wing of the E93, behind some of the sound deadening, not on the wheel arch itself as shown in another post/thread.
5) 4 crush rings are supplied for the power cables. The two for the amp are fine but they are a little long for the connection to the fuse. I used a hacksaw to shorten them a little.
6) I used the tightening bolt on the battery that is directly on the battery post. It's accessible under a little cap.
7) The USB connector worked fine for me. Needed to put the key in the ignition though (ignition off).
8) Lots of hissing through the front speakers even with the head unit muted. Also engine-speed related whine. Not sure why that is.
9) Bass is rather overwhelming. On the DSP amp, the output gain is set to 0db rear, -6db front. The input sensitivity is set to around 33% around the dial. I need to experiment with these, suggestions welcome.
10) The Gladen DSP file does appear to be for LHD models. I'll be PMing the OP for his modified file.
11) I borrowed my dad's carpeted double-garage plus a lot of his help. Definitely the way forward given the current outside temps!
12) On the way home, I used the Sat Nav to check it was working. When the bossy woman spoke, I nearly crashed the car. Jeez that is f-ing loud! Turned her down a LOT. Bongs are also audible to passengers of nearby airplanes.
13) Most importantly, I cannot see a Low Pass filter on the Gladen DSP file. I see a HPF at 125Hz on the front channel and another HPF at 30Hz on the rear channel. Surely I need a LPF on the rear channel at around 180Hz?

Cheers,

Ian.

Oh, also
14) The underseat woofer cables are indeed too short even with the amp rotated 180 degrees. There is no way that they will reach the back left amp location. Quick trip to Maplin was required for more speaker cable.
15) BTL vs SE switch. What's the correct option? I left it on BTL.

[Hopeful]

I couldn't get the head unit back in with the quadlock connectors behind it. Instead we moved the whole radio frame forward a bit, shoved the quadlock to the left hand side and then remounted the frame. Added another 30 mins but solved the space issue!

Why did it add another 30 mins? Didn't you just remove a few screws holding the frame in and then tug it forward, push the quadlock over and then refit the frame?

I removed the entire glovebox to get the cabling from the head unit to the passenger door sill. It's relatively easy with just the 6 visible torx screws and a few cables to disconnect.

Which route did you take? Did you avoid all the fuses?

[ecs0set]

Originally Posted by Hopeful

Why did it add another 30 mins? Didn't you just remove a few screws holding the frame in and then tug it forward, push the quadlock over and then refit the frame?



Which route did you take? Did you avoid all the fuses?

It was more a case of remove screws, scratch head for a while as the damned thing still didn't budge, move radio to one side, find additional metal securing bracket, find appropriate 10mm socket...

I ran it across to the passenger A-pillar. In retrospect, it is a little close to the fuse box. I will remove the back of the glovebox and I reckon I can get my hand in to move it further away.

[anielsen71]

Hi guys

Any one of you had problems with heat for the amp with th e placement under the tooltray?

[ecs0set]

Originally Posted by anielsen71

Hi guys

Any one of you had problems with heat for the amp with th e placement under the tooltray?

Not yet. I haven't covered mine with the tray yet.

Note that the boot vents from right next to that tray so at speed, it should be sucking air flow across the amp. In traffic might be more of a concern but no more than any other location.

[Mr Singh]

Not had any thermal issues through the summer with a 120.4 DSP in my E91. Amp is mounted just under the boot floor cover.

[anielsen71]

Thnx guys.
I'm about to pull the trigger on a Mosconi Gladen One 120.4DSP and a front speaker kit.

[Fooljam]

Guys,

Let me try to help answering a few questions I saw on the previous page based on my experience.

- Loud gong is only due to high gain on the amplifier. You can probably hear the hissing sound all the time. Reduce the gain. But not to the minimum, otherwise your subs will no longer play.
Do not lose your time with trying to code this out. Your gain is way too high.

- Underseat subwoofers must be wired directly to their own channels. Make sure the wires and crimps can handle 3 or 2 ohms (Gladen Extrem)

- If you lose PDC gong this is because you bought a 2 channel radio harness adapter. You need to get the 4 channels radio harness.

- Only code to HIFI if you have an amplifier for the rear speakers. This will flaten the EQ curve.
Yes this will improve significantly the sound, the mid range will no longer play bass.

- No you can not code to TOP HIFI unless you also retrofit a Logic7 amp

I hope this helps

[toesy]

Where are you in the UK, sylonien? PM me if you don't want to broadcast it.

[ecs0set]

The Gladen kit sounds really good except... I get a constant hiss from both tweeters and to a lesser extent, the mid-range.

I've tried:

1. Checking the ground point - no more than 0.3 ohms between there and any other chassis ground
2. Unplugging the RCAs - noise still present although very slightly less
3. Adjusting the input sensitivity to minimum - seemingly no change in hiss volume
4. Cut loop 1 of the crossover as advised by the manual
5. When the amp turns off, the hiss is completely gone

Given that the hiss is present with no RCAs connected and the hiss is not there when the amp is disconnected, the hiss must be generated by the amp? If it has a good power and ground feeds, I'm not sure what else I can try?

It's loud enough to be quite annoying, audible from the normal seating position and passengers comment on it if I have the head unit off. Any suggestions?

[sylonien]

That worries me.
Let us know if you find any solution.

Didn't someone earlier in this thread had some hiss issue as well?

I guess the only other way is try to get a replacement.

[ecs0set]

Originally Posted by sylonien

That worries me.
Let us know if you find any solution.

Didn't someone earlier in this thread had some hiss issue as well?

I guess the only other way is try to get a replacement.

Hmm, it seems the input gain does make a difference. I left it on minimum and went for a drive and the hiss was drowned out by the rest of the car. I've now got it on around 20 percent, down from 60 as set by the pink noise / clipping method.

I suspect it's an issue with my install rather than the kit so please don't let my issue put you off the excellent Gladen / Mosconi package.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by ecs0set

The Gladen kit sounds really good except... I get a constant hiss from both tweeters and to a lesser extent, the mid-range.

I've tried:

1. Checking the ground point - no more than 0.3 ohms between there and any other chassis ground
2. Unplugging the RCAs - noise still present although very slightly less
3. Adjusting the input sensitivity to minimum - seemingly no change in hiss volume
4. Cut loop 1 of the crossover as advised by the manual
5. When the amp turns off, the hiss is completely gone

Given that the hiss is present with no RCAs connected and the hiss is not there when the amp is disconnected, the hiss must be generated by the amp? If it has a good power and ground feeds, I'm not sure what else I can try?

It's loud enough to be quite annoying, audible from the normal seating position and passengers comment on it if I have the head unit off. Any suggestions?

What amp are you using?
And is it on high level input or low level input?

[ecs0set]

Originally Posted by makkan00

What amp are you using?
And is it on high level input or low level input?

120.4 dsp. High level.

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by ecs0set

120.4 dsp. High level.

Worth of exploring
- Gains (is it really on minimum and not max)
- Review DSP settings


I had a car to have some retrofit jobs done. As soon as I sat in the car, I heard hiss sound and I told the owner that gains were in correct.

After retrofits, 20 minutes later, all was adjusted. I wish I could had played with DSP settings as I was not 100% satisfied with the DSP settings.


If you still have the issues, then contact the vendor to see if they can help you.

[Mr Singh]

Also check the quadlock harness connection. Remove and reinsert. Its very tight behind the radio so things do get little cramped in there. With the hiss being reduced with a lower gain setting the only thing I can imagine it to be is within the DSP settings or connection.

[toesy]

I got sent via email the latest BMW DSP File from Ed at Monster Audio, I can send it to you if you want via email its only tiny file, I have the same setup as you.

PM me.

[luisin]

Hello ppl,

Currently I have a Mosconi 120.4 amplifier with a Gladen 200 3-way front speakers in a F20, with the professional radio coded as 'stereo', not hifi. No quadlock connector.

Today I just got the 120.4 DSP to replace the 120.4 without DSP.

Someone with my configuration would be so kind to send me the file with his DSP settings?

Tomorrow i'll replace the amps and it would be useful to start with a ready-made settings

Thank you in advance!

[toesy]

Just a note....

Remember the DSP files are time aligned to the Right or Left hand drive, and a file from UK would be right hand drive, where as in Spain since you drive on the right., the file needs to be left hand drive, time aligned differently.

I've heard some people have used a UK file and then swapped the settings by opening the file and keying in the values from right to left etc..

[sylonien]

- If you lose PDC gong this is because you bought a 2 channel radio harness adapter. You need to get the 4 channels radio harness.

Does this depend on if you have front or/and parking?
Or is the 4CH harness the correct one to buy regardless?

[makkan00]

Originally Posted by sylonien

Does this depend on if you have front or/and parking?
Or is the 4CH harness the correct one to buy regardless?

Most of what he mentioned can be challenged. His first point is worthless.

Anyway, You do not loose the pdc whether you get 2 channel harness or 4 channel. Exception is that you get 2 channel harness and disconnect the rear speakers which nobody would do.

The implication is relative to each other. One example is that with front only being amplified (2 channel harness), front pdc gongs will be louder compared to rear), but rear will still be audible. You may have to turn the volume down so the relative difference b/w front and rears decreases as well. At certain volume (lets say 20% volume of HU) the amplification of front channel will be 20-30% more than the rear (depending on how the gains are adjusted), so rear PDC gongs / beeps can be heard.

[sylonien]

Originally Posted by makkan00

Most of what he mentioned can be challenged. His first point is worthless.

Anyway, You do not loose the pdc whether you get 2 channel harness or 4 channel. Exception is that you get 2 channel harness and disconnect the rear speakers which nobody would do.

The implication is relative to each other. One example is that with front only being amplified (2 channel harness), front pdc gongs will be louder compared to rear), but rear will still be audible. You may have to turn the volume down so the relative difference b/w front and rears decreases as well. At certain volume (lets say 20% volume of HU) the amplification of front channel will be 20-30% more than the rear (depending on how the gains are adjusted), so rear PDC gongs / beeps can be heard.

+1

Thanks for the excellent explanation.

So really, all you need to do is turn down volume on the headunit when parking
so that

A) you can hear the rear PDC, as the music is likely to drown out the rear beeps

B) And secondly the front beeps might be too loud due to the amplifier.

I just hope that with the PDC/Bong set to minimum the rear is still audible during parking (with main volume turned down) and that its enough to supress the amplified bong/PDC without coding.

Finally, Hi-Fi coding and bong/pdc volume issue is 2 separate things right?

Ie. one is for sound quality regarding to the EQ and the other is try to code out loud notification sounds?