[RMRC]

Originally Posted by White05X3

I chose the TT for a few reasons.

1. Ease of installation.

2. Lack of complaints. You never read about people having trouble with the TT.

3. Cost.

I am loathe to get into a Procede vs. everybody debate. It was however not the right product for me.

Those are all the same reasons I'm considering the TT though I haven't entirely ruled out JB1 due to the even more attractive price and lack of complaints or error codes. I know the Procede is a good product and has many satisfied customers but the two emails I sent to the sales email address over the last couple weeks have gone unanswered. This poor customer service has removed Procede from consideration. I will also note that my emails to Jon@themshop, jeff@eurobahn and Terry have been answered within hours. Now the tough part, deciding which one to get.

[sg335]

The SSTT is a no brainer. Conservative figures and a reasonable price without any problems noted. Cant go wrong with that. I'm jumping aboard. What I like about this chip is that I believe power delivery will be much more manageable than with the Procede/xede's extra power. Most of these buyers are having a hard time keeping the power to the ground. Sure, I'm for more power, but it is useless if you can't control the wheel spin. Since I don't have a Quaife, I feel the SSTT may be a better solution for now. And with less boost on this chip than with the others, it will be important to see if the oil and coolant temps increase because of the added boost over stock. Now that I have a baseline of temps to go by, this will be easy to track. And I need to get ahold of that OBDII data logger. Cheers.

[sambonator]

Originally Posted by sg335

The SSTT is a no brainer. ... And with less boost on this chip than with the others, it will be important to see if the oil and coolant temps increase because of the added boost over stock. Now that I have a baseline of temps to go by, this will be easy to track. And I need to get ahold of that OBDII data logger. Cheers.

From what I understand SSTT runs higher boost than JBS1 and JBS2.

[RMRC]

Originally Posted by sambonator

From what I understand SSTT runs higher boost than JBS1 and JBS2.

I read 11psi max somewhere though I can't recall where I saw that.

[purplewidow]

Originally Posted by gloster

See.....there is at least one nice thing about Ohio weather. Looking forward to my remaining 50-60 degree track days

yeah but the humidity is killer and 95 in ohio in the summer is nowhere near the humidity in vegas or LA...i will take a 95 degree day in vegas any day over the same in ohio chicago or anywhere in the midwest...plus it is 60-85 in the spring fall and winter there whereas we have cold frigid winters which means we need snow tire and they don't.... i am ordering mine as we speak

[sg335]

Originally Posted by sambonator

From what I understand SSTT runs higher boost than JBS1 and JBS2.

I was not referring to the JB in my comparison. Vishnu and Active Autowerks run more boost that these two other chips. Although I have not confirmed it with the company, I was also going by previous posts indicating that the max boost pressures were around 11psi. I think this level of increase is reasonable and on the conservative side. If the JB is less, great as I am all for less boost and more power, but where do they then get their power from then? They must be manipulating other values. I am just more comfortable with the SSTT and their excellent customer service and dealer network. If all the SSTT does is increase boost (maybe they also change other values as well) this is like putting on a crank pully kit on a SC's car which is relatively safe to do.

[sg335]

OK, lets get back on track.

Here is the published data from BMW's 2007 Engine Management documentation:

OIL:
Engine component protection starts at 298 degrees. At 304 degrees power output is reduced and notes as "clear reduction". At 306 degrees 100% of power output reduction for air conditioning. At 312 degrees the warning light comes on (white or yellow?). The same symbol is used for oil and water: a thermometer in fluid. At 314 degrees, component protection "End @ 90%. At 316 degrees, the car is in emergency zone and torque converter clutch lockup is active. At 321 degrees the red warning light comes on.

COOLANT:
Engine component protection starts at 242 degrees. At 244 degrees there is a clear reduction of engine power output. At 248 degrees the white/yellow warning light comes on and 100% of power is cut from air conditioning. At 252 degrees, torque converter clutch lock up is active. At 255 degrees power output "End @ 90%). At 257 degrees, the red warning light comes on.

What is very interesting about this data is that based on all of our experiences, limp home mode has always been initiated under 300 degrees oil temp. In fact, many have lost power at 290 and 295, myself included. So my thinking continues to rest with coolant temps as the main source or cause of the shut downs. And I think that the data above may just prove this. You can reason that with increased engine heat, not only oil temps go up, but coolant temps go up as well. At 290 oil temps, when my light came on (can't remember the color), you could not establish whether or not it was oil or water because the gauge symbol is the same. I will assume it was the coolant temp warning light because the oil warning light does not come on until 312 or 321 degrees. And I don't think the oil guage is that far off of calibration or accuracy. So it must be the coolant warning light that came on, and if it was, according to the data above, it came on at 248 or 257 degrees. I will assume that since it was the first light that come on, it was the 248 degree temp warning, In addition, I did not have complete power loss. The car was drivable, but not as fast, as I backed off for a lap.

So there you have it. My analysis of the problem and conclusion that we have a coolant overheating problem with the car, not an oil cooling problem, although we need to address bringing down the oil temps as well. I believe reb03 had some good data from his OBD data logger that also shows coolant temps exceeding 240 degrees. Maybe he can post a link to those here, or just repost the info within this thread for consistance of topic.

[ToddPhilly]

Originally Posted by sg335

OK, lets get back on track.

Here is the published data from BMW's 2007 Engine Management documentation:

OIL:
Engine component protection starts at 298 degrees. At 304 degrees power output is reduced and notes as "clear reduction". At 306 degrees 100% of power output reduction for air conditioning. At 312 degrees the warning light comes on (white or yellow?). The same symbol is used for oil and water: a thermometer in fluid. At 314 degrees, component protection "End @ 90%. At 316 degrees, the car is in emergency zone and torque converter clutch lockup is active. At 321 degrees the red warning light comes on.

COOLANT:
Engine component protection starts at 242 degrees. At 244 degrees there is a clear reduction of engine power output. At 248 degrees the white/yellow warning light comes on and 100% of power is cut from air conditioning. At 252 degrees, torque converter clutch lock up is active. At 255 degrees power output "End @ 90%). At 257 degrees, the red warning light comes on.

What is very interesting about this data is that based on all of our experiences, limp home mode has always been initiated under 300 degrees oil temp. In fact, many have lost power at 290 and 295, myself included. So my thinking continues to rest with coolant temps as the main source or cause of the shut downs. And I think that the data above may just prove this. You can reason that with increased engine heat, not only oil temps go up, but coolant temps go up as well. At 290 oil temps, when my light came on (can't remember the color), you could not establish whether or not it was oil or water because the gauge symbol is the same. I will assume it was the coolant temp warning light because the oil warning light does not come on until 312 or 321 degrees. And I don't think the oil guage is that far off of calibration or accuracy. So it must be the coolant warning light that came on, and if it was, according to the data above, it came on at 248 or 257 degrees. I will assume that since it was the first light that come on, it was the 248 degree temp warning, In addition, I did not have complete power loss. The car was drivable, but not as fast, as I backed off for a lap.

So there you have it. My analysis of the problem and conclusion that we have a coolant overheating problem with the car, not an oil cooling problem, although we need to address bringing down the oil temps as well. I believe reb03 had some good data from his OBD data logger that also shows coolant temps exceeding 240 degrees. Maybe he can post a link to those here, or just repost the info within this thread for consistance of topic.

So if coolant is truly expected to be the main culprit, what are our options for remedy?

Does water wetter really work enough to make a real difference?

[S4to335]

It should help...I am gonna get some and try. I used water wetter on my race car before..so I am comfortable with it.

[Chowbow]

Coolant temps are definitely a problem as well I'm sure. The best way is to upgrade the radiator of course, but I don't know how well that would work. Living in CA I wouldn't mind going with a real low mix of anti-freeze because of the mild temps. Depending on the mixture it can be a little better at cooling, along with WW.

[RMRC]

Originally Posted by sg335

I believe reb03 had some good data from his OBD data logger that also shows coolant temps exceeding 240 degrees. Maybe he can post a link to those here, or just repost the info within this thread for consistance of topic.

Ask and you shall receive. I'd love a solution to this overheating coolant problem. Last I heard cars headed for Australia have a larger capacity radiator. Is there anyone who can confirm this? If it's true this radiator could be just enough to make our 335s happy track cars.



In the chart above you can clearly see where the car goes into limp home mode. It's the highest point where the coolant topped out before the ECU reduced power followed by a sharp decline in the coolant temp. This decline is associated with my pulling into the pits.

[jon@themshop]

Originally Posted by reb03

Ask and you shall receive. I'd love a solution to this overheating coolant problem. Last I heard cars headed for Australia have a larger capacity radiator. Is there anyone who can confirm this? If it's true this radiator could be just enough to make our 335s happy track cars.

No the Australian or European radiators are not larger than the US version. There are different part numbers between a manual and automatic transmission but the only difference is an additional part for the coolant to cool down the AT fluid.

Now the 335d might have a larger capacity or might have an extra core but I don't have that info. nor do I know if it'll be a direct fit. Most BMW radiators have a 2 core design but M models like the E46 M3 has a 3 core design.

[sg335]

Originally Posted by reb03

Ask and you shall receive. I'd love a solution to this overheating coolant problem. Last I heard cars headed for Australia have a larger capacity radiator. Is there anyone who can confirm this? If it's true this radiator could be just enough to make our 335s happy track cars.



In the chart above you can clearly see where the car goes into limp home mode. It's the highest point where the coolant topped out before the ECU reduced power followed by a sharp decline in the coolant temp. This decline is associated with my pulling into the pits.

Do you also have the oil temp chart that was part of this same session? It appears that you exceeded 240 twice. If you use 6.25 per mark between 225.0 and 250.0, you could read the graph as 242.75 at about 12.5 minutes and 243.75 at about 16.6 minutes.

[RMRC]

Originally Posted by sg335

Do you also have the oil temp chart that was part of this same session? It appears that you exceeded 240 twice. If you use 6.25 per mark between 225.0 and 250.0, you could read the graph as 242.75 at about 12.5 minutes and 243.75 at about 16.6 minutes.

Unfortunately the CarChip doesn't record oil temp but I looked at my oil gauge each time the car hit Limp and in each case the oil gauge read between 285-290 degrees. I've been saying for months that I think this is more coolant than oil related but I'm sure it's a combination of the two. Could be intake temp too.

Edit: the CarChip does record intake temps but I don't have them from this day at Big Willow.

[sg335]

Originally Posted by reb03

Unfortunately the CarChip doesn't record oil temp but I looked at my oil gauge each time the car hit Limp and in each case the oil gauge read between 285-290 degrees. I've been saying for months that I think this is more coolant than oil related but I'm sure it's a combination of the two. Could be intake temp too.

Edit: the CarChip does record intake temps but I don't have them from this day at Big Willow.

I am going to use my Nology software and laptop next time. I can record up to four inputs I think. Will be interesting to see how this software does.

[sg335]

Run one bottle of water wetter per system fill and use DISTILLED water. Deleting coolant will ultimately produce the lowest temps, but it would be wise to use a small amount of coolant to prevent the heater core from freezing, and its anti-corresive properties. I would use no more than an equal portion of antifreeze to water wetter.

[RMRC]

Originally Posted by Brisk

A bit off topic but just to add to the SSTT discussion. i ran one on my coupe over the summer..

i loved it.. it gave a awesome power increase. it was really smooth and the drivability of the car didnt change at all, just a increase in power everywhere. felt great.

At the end of the day, the SSTT
is a mild tune at 12 psi
Very easy install / uninstall (under a minute)the ONLY plug and play no wire to play with tune out.
There are many dealers selling them including Eurobhan ,the M shop, bimmer performance store and others.. which offer great customer service with any issues you have.

btw it has a 2 year warranty on the product itself and a 7 day money back Gurantee if u dont like it return it. thats awesome.

the european magazine tested it aswell, they have a dyno and couple pages on it. there a bmw dealer that even sells them! There also some BMW track events that run the Turbo tuners.

IMO the awesome power that isnt over done, (HP, TQ ,PSI wise) that i feel comfortable with.

+1. I just installed mine this evening and I'm initially impressed. My car only has 1,700 miles so I'm not going to really push the boost (Jeff told me the TT makes a max of 11.5 psi at cool ambient temps) until after 2k miles but as far as I can tell the powerband is unchanged but there is just a lot more power across the rev range that I explored (up to 5k rpm or so). The extra torque is VERY noticeable. The longer I drove the car and as the ECU continued to adapt the power seemed to get stronger and stronger. I think this was money well spent.

Brisk: thanks for the DIY. I added my own twist to the install. I was able to wedge both arms down there some how which helped a ton. I held a small flathead screwdriver in the left hand and inserted the end into the detent of the plug while I pried the clip up with my fingernail. The plug popped right out. The whole install took about 2mins.

[sg335]

Here are the conversions from degrees C to F:

100c = 212.0f
105c = 221.0f
110c = 230.0f
115c = 239.0f
117c = 242.6f Engine component protection starts
118c = 244.4f Clear reduction of engine power output
120c = 248.0f Yellow warning light
122c = 251.6f Torque converter clutch lock up
124c = 255.2f 90% reduction in power
125c = 257.0f Red warning light

I am currently monitoring coolant temps on the street. They average between 91c -106c depending on how warm the motor is. I need to take temps for the rest of the week in different gears and different speeds and compare with oil temps. I will keep you all posted. Will be at WSIR on the 14th and will record temps there as well.

[RMRC]

What are you using to record coolant and oil temps? You mentioned Nology software. Does this plug into the OBD port?

[sg335]

Yes I have the Nology but I am using something else that BMW provides

[RMRC]

Originally Posted by sg335

Yes I have the Nology but I am using something else that BMW provides

You lost me there...

[sg335]

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