[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

Anyone know how to reset the light or is it based off of a wear indicator that has to be replaced to reset the light? Damn thing came on this evening after I cranked it after sitting for an hour or so and I checked the mileage on the service screen and both front and rear show ----. found a few posts earlier but nothing obvious about resetting it. Brakes seem perfectly fine, not that I've looked at the pads but it sure can stop lol.

[antiks]

only way to stop it is to buy new sensors

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

boooo i was afraid of that... with the new sensors, will it automatically refresh the mileage for the brakes on my display?

[michael1284]

I think they have to reset it? Not totally sure.

[krnboy817]

yes once the sensors go off you need new ones. mileage reset can be done on your stalk controls i believe.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

well turns out my factory maintenance/warranty doesn't expire until Thursday so it's at Classic right now. Should get that fixed/handled, the fuel door latch fixed, and I was told (this time) that it now falls under the HPFP recall (booo)... Pretty weird that I asked them at least three times if it was under the HPFP recall within the last month and I was told no each time. I guess they recently reviewed more cars since mine is now under it and so is Michaels?

[michael1284]

Yeah I took mine in last month and they said it wasn't under any recalls at all. Then I get the letter yesterday telling me to go back in. I'm going to get some other stuff replaced at the same time so it's not too big of a deal to me.

It's paining me right now that an OEM battery costs 269.99. I think I'm going to go the autozone route..

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

Originally Posted by michael1284

It's paining me right now that an OEM battery costs 269.99. I think I'm going to go the autozone route..

damn man, yeah that's brutal.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

Update: Got car back from dealer and was informed there was a programming error of sorts for the brakes and it was miscommunicating the mileage, or something of the sort. Turns out, the computer was reporting that my brakes were overdue 400 THOUSAND miles LOL!! They cleared that with their magic and all is well with brakes. They told me I have around 12K left on them. Also got my fuel door fixed and the HPFP done. Funny thing is, after all this my icon for disabling traction control has changed from the exclamation point with the arrow around it to a pic of a car from behind with some tire marks and a DSC off..

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

I didn't post this last time, or maybe I did.... but I've got this dumb issue for the third time... Happened a month after this post and again the day before yesterday. The last time Classic swapped a few sensors, two of the brake wear sensors and one of the DSC sensors. I love that my SA is getting this covered for me even though the maintenance warranty is expired. Considering this is a repeat issue, I'd expect it either way.

I'm thinking this time they need to go ahead and replace the brakes and whatever else hasn't been replaced. It's getting ridiculous.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

Yet another update.. got word from my SA that this issue was due to when they last serviced my vehicle for the A/C Control Unit. Evidently, when they did that, they mucked up the coding and since then I've had this problem (back in April...) They got a 'vehicle order' for the software as it was missing the piece for the brakes... However, once that was installed, the issue was still there. Now they are telling me the problem is fixed (out of the blue) and that I need to pay them to replace my rear pads as they are on the brink and the light will remain illuminated until that service is done... so more information yields that in April, my front pads showed 6,600 miles remaining while my back pads showed 8,800 miles remaining. Currently, it's reporting my front pads as having 6K remaining and rears need replacing.. Something doesn't add up... SA said he agrees and will look into it and give me a call back.

I'm thinking they should have replaced the brakes the first time I came in, but since they didn't and I've taken the car in 3 times for the same issue only for it to not be fixed, they should at least cover replacing them now. I've wasted many hours off work taking the car to them and have been in loaners/rentals for at least a total of 3 weeks due to this issue. I think it's time Classic shows why they have such good customer service reviews.

Any other opinions here? Am I being unreasonable? Remember, the issue first reared it's ugly head when I still had the factory maintenance coverage. It has since expired but the SA has been covering all of this under a 're-check' since it existed before the coverage expired.

[MattsGray335]

Sec. 2301.603. CONFORMANCE WITH WARRANTY REQUIRED. (a) A manufacturer, converter, or distributor shall make repairs necessary to conform a new motor vehicle to an applicable manufacturer's, converter's, or distributor's express warranty.

(b) Subsection (a) applies after the expiration date of a warranty if:

(1) during the term of the warranty, the owner or the owner's agent reported the nonconformity to the manufacturer, converter, or distributor, or to a designated agent or franchised dealer of the manufacturer, converter, or distributor; or

(2) a rebuttable presumption relating to the vehicle is created under Section 2301.605.

(c) This subchapter does not limit a remedy available to an owner under a new motor vehicle warranty that extends beyond the provisions of this subchapter.

Source: http://www.statutes.legis.state.tx.u...1.htm#2301.204

From Texas Occupations Code. If I am not misunderstanding this, I gather that if the problem is reported within warranty time period and the problem persists outside valid warranty time period, the dealer/manufacturer must make repairs to resolve the issue.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

I would think so too... I guess the difference here is that they are saying the pads didn't need to be replaced to begin with only now need to be replaced due to extra wear since the original issue was reported. At least, I think that would be their argument.

Either way, I did just get off the phone with my SA and he said that BMW wouldn't do anything more for me, but he spoke with his Manager and was able to work it out where Classic will cover the labor if I purchase the parts. I said to go ahead with it and replace both front and rear if they will cover the labor. I guess it's better than nothing and I feel somewhat satisfied that he continued to do what he could to help me out. Now, if the issue returns after a few months AND I have new brakes, I'm gonna be some kind of furious...

Oh, and I found out what the Vehicle Order software changed.. He said that they removed the time variable out of the equation for processing when the brakes need to be replaced and are only going off of wear/mileage. Sounds like an amazing band-aid to me, but I guess only time will tell.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

Well, got it back and turns out they didn't turn the rotors when they performed the 4wheel pad replacements. Anyone know if this is standard operating procedure by BMW? According to my SA, he said they don't turn rotors and they 'looked fine' which I'm calling BS. You can see wear lines in the rotors and since the new pads aren't matching the wear lines, I've got spongy brakes.

If anyone has any experience with this, lemme know!

*EDIT* Well I called the dealer and just simply asked if turning rotors in an all-wheel brake job would be included and was informed that you don't turn rotors on a BMW, you only replace them... anyone heard of this? I guess it would add up if that were the case...

[MattsGray335]

The minimum thickness and new rotor thickness are close in value. I don't think there is enough material on a used rotor to turn it. I was always told to replace the rotors when replacing the pads (at least on BMWs).


Also, when I needed to replace my front brake pads, Classic quoted me $460 ( I don't think rotors are included in this price), I did it myself and spent just over $300 for Hawk HPS pads, rotors and pad sensor.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

I normally do all my own work when it comes to simple tasks like brakes/etc, but in this case, I wanted to have a leg to stand on in case the issue returns, so I opted to have Classic handle it. With that known, I decided to check autohaus to see how much some rotors would be and they were showing around $130 per rotor. Mighty expensive (IMO for rotors), but I'm sure it would be a little more from BMW. At this point in time I'm thinking that bedding the brakes in may be sufficient, but admittedly I've never done that.

Anyone with experience in bedding brakes? Noticeable differences or anything? According to the articles I've read, it should improve brake responsiveness/etc.

[MattsGray335]

This is a good DIY on bedding brakes. I personally did 3 runs at 30 mph, and 3 runs at 60 mph to get the brakes nice smokey (and smelly).

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

If your looking for some OEM replacement rotors, TireRack is where it's at $74 per rotor.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

yep, that's the link I was reading earlier today. I'll try your method first to see what I get. Not a bad price on those rotors. I haven't looked, but my guess is they aren't OEM. Even autohaus had some for around $60 that weren't OEM.

[MattsGray335]

TireRack stocks Centric Rotors (OEM Replacements), which is made by Stoptech which I think is a quality brand. I have the Centrics on all four corners and couldn't be happier. The Hawk HPS pads squeak though but have good stopping power.

[PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe]

ahhh good info to have. I'll def keep this in mind once I get to that point. Till then, I'll bed `em in and see what happens.

I totally appreciate your advice

[MattsGray335]

No problem, and good luck.