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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Auto Transmission Fluid Change



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      08-01-2014, 12:12 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TGTIW View Post
Is there any reason it wouldn't work to measure the amount of old fluid drained and refill with the same amount?
You are also assuming you don't have any leaks. Even a drop a week for a year is significant.
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      08-05-2014, 07:07 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
I finally changed my tranny fluid this past Saturday @ 116k miles. I took it to a shop where a friend works and was able to change my fluid and pan. It took about 2.5 hrs. There is a muffler bracket that nobody mentions that needs to come off. One of the bolts on this bracket broke off and had to be removed and replaced with another bolt. That is why it took a bit longer.

He only charged me $85.00 for labor. Altogether for parts and labor $200.00

Shifting is very smooth now.
On my RWD e92, there was nothing in the way. Maybe on other models this may be the case.
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      08-06-2014, 11:11 AM   #201
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For those that have used Castrol transmax, it looks like they have changed their formula.

BMW or Shell M1375.4 are no longer listed
Attached Images
File Type: pdf pds_ImportMV.pdf (368.9 KB, 178 views)
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      08-30-2014, 10:28 AM   #202
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In 2011, Castrol has updated their specs for their Castrol Transmax™ Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).

Their specs no longer include recommendations for BMW.

Is this Castrol still safe to use on E90?
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File Type: pdf Transmax Import MV PDS.pdf (103.8 KB, 419 views)
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      08-30-2014, 11:12 AM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90ben View Post
For those that have used Castrol transmax, it looks like they have changed their formula.

BMW or Shell M1375.4 are no longer listed

Quote:
Originally Posted by rshew View Post
In 2011, Castrol has updated their specs for their Castrol Transmax™ Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).

Their specs no longer include recommendations for BMW.

Is this Castrol still safe to use on E90?

Looks like they changed the formula. Will be switching to an oil with the Shell 1375.4 spec. Maybe I will try Peak.
http://images.peakauto.com/PEAK%20FS...ercon%20LV.pdf
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      08-30-2014, 11:16 AM   #204
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Ok guys I updated my DIY. Thanks for that update.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      09-21-2014, 04:46 PM   #205
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I followed the DIY to the dot, about 4 quarts of fluid came out and I was able to fill in 3 1/2. After I start the car and shift through the gears I was able to squeeze in a few ounces. I plan to do a complete flush with filter and pan later on. Am I missing anything here? Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by Mrsn52e90; 09-21-2014 at 07:00 PM..
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      10-09-2014, 01:47 PM   #206
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Can anyone confirm you have to remove the drive shaft in order to access the fill plug on an X-drive 335? Or can it be managed to go around it?
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      10-09-2014, 02:04 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrsn52e90 View Post
I followed the DIY to the dot, about 4 quarts of fluid came out and I was able to fill in 3 1/2. After I start the car and shift through the gears I was able to squeeze in a few ounces. I plan to do a complete flush with filter and pan later on. Am I missing anything here? Any help would be appreciated.
Start the car, shift through gears & "while engine's runnning" open the fill hole and you can add almost a quart if not more
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      10-09-2014, 02:47 PM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e70sportmia View Post
What's up fellas!

I am about to embark on this maintenance and I have the ZF transmission. I have 94K its a 2006 325I. Here the part numbers for the pan and filters which are one piece:

(24152333907)
$246.00 dealer
$211.00 ECS Tuning

Castrol 06814 Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid - 8 Quarts $47 (Amazon.com)
Wassup?

Hey wanted to ask you hows your tranny running after the flush? I know you mentioned you used the Castrol fluid and so did I. Some folks here are saying Castrol changed their formula and BMW is not on their list as of 2011?

Are you experiencing rough shifting or anything? Sometimes and very rarely I do. I wonder if changing to ZF fluid will be safer?
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      10-09-2014, 02:56 PM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
Wassup?

Hey wanted to ask you hows your tranny running after the flush? I know you mentioned you used the Castrol fluid and so did I. Some folks here are saying Castrol changed their formula and BMW is not on their list as of 2011?

Are you experiencing rough shifting or anything? Sometimes and very rarely I do. I wonder if changing to ZF fluid will be safer?
To be honest with you I have had ZERO issues and it actually shifted better.
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      10-09-2014, 03:15 PM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e70sportmia View Post
To be honest with you I have had ZERO issues and it actually shifted better.
Interesting. Ok, thanks.
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      10-13-2014, 10:07 PM   #211
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Attached transmission datasheet

BTW. Check Service notes guys. After some homework, this one post and google my conclusion is :

1. there is no reason to change fluid on low mileage if everything is OK, you may check level and add SAME fluid (ATF 2), and main problem is because you can't replace all oil, mechatronics always keep some ...

Mi guessing is that everyone in this thread have replaced between 80-90% of fluid, so, you have mixed two different ... not big deal for ATF actually but either recommended

2. on first sign of any problem change fluid, but then do everything, open it, clean ...
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File Type: pdf Trans.pdf (3.04 MB, 388 views)
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      10-22-2014, 03:01 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldado331 View Post
My e90 335 with the ZF tranny was shifting rough at times and it has 61k miles. I decided to buy Red line atf and a new pan/filter to try to do it myself. After reading this post and seeing I didn't have a lift and that I didnt want to deal with the AWD drive shaft, or a way to reset the computer after the job, I gave the job to my local AAMCO mechanic. They used 6.5 qts and now shifting is smoother. They gave the car back 24 hrs later and charged $125 for labor only. Totally worth it to me to save myself the frustration of not having the right tools for the job.
I have a 335 xdrive and thinking about changing the Trans fluid out until I read I have to remove the drive shaft. Can anybody confirm this? Is removing it a PITA?
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      10-29-2014, 11:10 PM   #213
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Finally read through the entire thread awesome DIY and supplemental info from everyone else.

Has anyone tried using Motul 300 Gear fluid?
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      10-31-2014, 01:00 AM   #214
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after oil drain, how can i get the oil from torque converter? can i just fill and let the car run and drain again? will i get some out?
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      10-31-2014, 01:22 AM   #215
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after oil drain, how can i get the oil from torque converter? can i just fill and let the car run and drain again? will i get some out?
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      11-07-2014, 10:46 AM   #216
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Mercon SP

just wanted to check in. it's been a year since i did a drain and fill (with pan/filter change) I used Mercon SP on my 06 325i (ZF tranny) car is still running smooth.

With all the talk about Castrol Import ATF changing its specs, Mercon SP is a reliable alternative.

Next time I plan to try Valvoline Maxlife. It is synthetic ATF and specs meet/exceed BMW/Shell 1375.4 spec.

http://www.valvoline.com/valint/inte...2013.08.08.pdf
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      11-15-2014, 03:42 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mex2309 View Post
Can anyone confirm you have to remove the drive shaft in order to access the fill plug on an X-drive 335? Or can it be managed to go around it?
I have a 330xi and I had to remove the drive shaft. There was no way to work around it. I wouldn't have been able to take off the fill plug. (Sorry for late reply)
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      11-17-2014, 02:57 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave4 View Post
I have a 330xi and I had to remove the drive shaft. There was no way to work around it. I wouldn't have been able to take off the fill plug. (Sorry for late reply)
Confirmed. You absolutely MUST decouple the front driveshaft from the transfer case in order to get to the fill plug.
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      04-13-2015, 12:10 AM   #219
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In retrospect I would attach some kind of weight to the hose that sucks out of the tranny oil bucket to keep it at the bottom.
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      04-25-2015, 10:35 AM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GB-335xiCoupe View Post
Confirmed. You absolutely MUST decouple the front driveshaft from the transfer case in order to get to the fill plug.
How hard was the driveshaft to remove? Pain in the butt?
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