[m-technik]

Here’s the situation I’m trying to troubleshoot:

Replaced my original lead acid battery (white color), which failed to hold a charge for more than a few days with another (exact same) oem battery I picked up from the dealership. Install went fine...Lights, radio etc. powered up and no ‘problem lights’ illuminated, but when I pushed the starter, nothing. No crank at all.

I’ve gone and triple checked my install and nothing seems to be out of place. For the mean time, I’ve attached a charger at 15 amps charge to see if maybe the battery Bmw gave me was low on power, although that green light on top of the battery was illuminated, and the new battery seems to be only drawing about 5 amps of power according to the charger.

Any suggestions?

[m-technik]

Just to update, I've checked the charger and it indicates a 100% full charge on the new battery. I checked over all the lights, electronics in the car and everything is working fine, it just wont crank. I also tried a jump start and nothing....

[queensfield]

Your starter is probably dead if it won't even crank.

[hugus311]

or starter button

[m-technik]

Thanks guys. Gonna be an expensive week for the 335..first a Hid burns out, then the battery dies, now possibly the starter. Warranty just ended so i guess thats when these cars fall apart.

[GMWNashville]

the possabilities are endless on what could be wrong...if it were me id get the car to a capable shop-throwing parts at it could get very expensive..

[kevin@bavarianx]

New battery needs to be coded to the car.

[m-technik]

Originally Posted by kevin@bavarianx

New battery needs to be coded to the car.

Thanks guys. If you keep with the same battery type (i stayed with lead acid as opposed to switching to agm-type) all you will need to do is register the new battery with the car. However, this will not stop the car from starting, it would basically just affect its charging cycle. Anyways, im gonna try and push start the car and drive it to a friends shop for further diagnosis. Ill report back with what we discover.

[queensfield]

That is correct. Same battery, then no coding necessary, just register, which will enable the battery to be charged correctly, and will prolong its life. Not registering it does not explain the starting trouble you are having. But you might want to double check all your electrical connections at the battery terminal- IBS, communication cable, and connections at the positive terminal. For safety reasons, make sure that the gas conduit is properly connected to the side of the battery.

[m-technik]

Originally Posted by queensfield

That is correct. Same battery, then no coding necessary, just register, which will enable the battery to be charged correctly, and will prolong its life. Not registering it does not explain the starting trouble you are having. But you might want to double check all your electrical connections at the battery terminal- IBS, communication cable, and connections at the positive terminal. For safety reasons, make sure that the gas conduit is properly connected to the side of the battery.

My mechanic took a look at it and it’s probably a problem with the electronics that control the ignition. The car is experiencing a constant strong drain on the battery (100% charged batt fully drained within a day), along with no crank and the steering wheel lock stays on with the key engaged. My car is parked in an underground parking lot with a low clearance, too low for a tow truck to fit, and with the cars steering wheel lock engaged, I cannot push it out of the garage, nor can I push start it. Anyone know how to disengage the steering wheel lock?

EDIT: Found a DIY: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=483387

Problem is, it’s a very lengthy process and I would have to re-install the steering column with the lock disengaged (making any chance of starting the engine impossible due to a security lock out) so that I can steer the car while being pushed through my parking garage to an area that is accessible by the tow truck. Man, this is becoming a total pain in the ass! If anyone has a better suggestion, please let me know!

[zeeman335]

I dont understand how this could all happen after replacing the battery? How can the electrical control just "go" after replacing the battery. Maybe get another battery to see if some other battery would start the car up.

Removing steering column seems like a hella long process but may be neccessary in this situation since your car is in underground parking garage.

[m-technik]

Originally Posted by zeeman335

I dont understand how this could all happen after replacing the battery? How can the electrical control just "go" after replacing the battery. Maybe get another battery to see if some other battery would start the car up.

Removing steering column seems like a hella long process but may be neccessary in this situation since your car is in underground parking garage.

Ya its pretty much a mystery what going on right now. I hope that all of these issues are somehow related to the battery..I know that from reading the steering wheel lock DIY that a low/faulty battery can cause it to stay locked. My mechanic took the battery out to run some tests on it and to make sure its fully charged, he is also gonna bring another battery and a scan tool with him when he comes by tomorrow. Hopefully that'll shed some light on things.

[triger716]

My guess is it is the IBS. Try disconnecting the IBS connector (3-pin connector with 2 wires) from the negative batt terminal. Follow the white/blue and gray wires from the IBS to locate the connector.

Try staring the car. If it starts, replace the faulty IBS.

[m-technik]

Originally Posted by triger716

My guess is it is the IBS. Try disconnecting the IBS connector (3-pin connector with 2 wires) from the negative batt terminal. Follow the white/blue and gray wires from the IBS to locate the connector.

Try staring the car. If it starts, replace the faulty IBS.

Thanks! Ill give it a try and report back. So today while driving to work my E36 blew a Rad hose on the highway, spewing steam all over the place! Man, its just not my week.

[m-technik]

So it looks like it was a faulty connection on the IBS. Code scanner picked up that fault, which set off the steering wheel lock fault (so no start). Got the car started by ‘jiggling’ the negative terminal and the 3 pin connector for the IBS module. Cleared codes, took it for a good rip and no codes came back as of yet. good call triger716!

[zeeman335]

phew! glad to hear that it was just a faulty connection!

[m-technik]

Originally Posted by zeeman335

phew! glad to hear that it was just a faulty connection!

Ya no kidding, dodged a bullet there! I went ahead and replaced the ibs module today as it was still throwing fault codes this morning. I actually had to unplug it to get the car started. Cost was $300 for the unit from the dealer.

[Alpineweiss e90]

Originally Posted by kevin@bavarianx

New battery needs to be coded to the car.

This is so wrong.....

You don't need to at all. It extends battery life and it's recommended but it's not mandatory.

[Bavarian Tech]

Originally Posted by Alpineweiss e90

This is so wrong.....

You don't need to at all. It extends battery life and it's recommended but it's not mandatory.

Everyone has their opinion..The car was designed to have have a new battery registered to insure that the electrical system isn't compromised. Don't believe me do a search...Their has been battery's that have blown up. Its you car, do as you want but this isn't an Accord.

[UncleWede]

For the future (hopefully you'll never need) a lot of the tow trucks have those wheel lifters to elevate the drive train that is locked when they want to tow. You could snap two sets on the wheels and then push it to a location where the truck can hook it up.

[Alpineweiss e90]

Originally Posted by msbc721

Everyone has their opinion..The car was designed to have have a new battery registered to insure that the electrical system isn't compromised. Don't believe me do a search...Their has been battery's that have blown up. Its you car, do as you want but this isn't an Accord.

Again wrong. The battery didn't blow Because it wasnt registered. Go find that thread and read through it....it was never proven the battery exploded due to not registering. It was most likely an improper installation causing the BST to blow.

Registering does 3 things:

Logs mileage
Records a reference point at 80% charge
Resets the adaptation

The car will relearn over time but that will decrease battery performance since it won't maintain the battery properly when it is first installed.

Again, it's recommended BUT NOT MANDATORY.