[moho]

so here's the story:
my water pump was failing at ~110k miles, would intermittently work, replaced it with a 3rd party, ran good for about a month.
then it died. so I get a replacement from the seller (ebay) they said it was probably just a faulty unit.
so I install that one. 1 week later dead again. 250$ tow. took it to a reputable indy shop (Litchfield auto for you in AZ), told them the whole story and they told me it was the pump again. pissed I return the pump to the seller for a refund and buy a OEM BMW brand pump. get everything installed and no go. pump doesn't work at all, checked the connection it is good, tried to bleed it and no pump action, turned the car on, up to 110c no action so I turn it off.


so here's the question, is there a relay that could be bad? or a fuse? I searched, i couldn't find anything on fuses for e90 pumps. I don't want to pay another $200 tow to go to a stealer (I called them before I went to Litchfield auto and the guy pissed me off saying I have no clue about my car).
oh yeah I completely flushed the fluid every change if you are wondering

[Meeni]

There is indeed a fuse. Should start from there.
Also, what does the temp sensor report ? The 110C is from the car itself or measured otherwise?
Have you had the thermostat checked ? The thermostat failing stuck closed is rare but it happens.

[moho]

I have a obd Bluetooth tool I use for temp readings.
the thermostat was replaced with the first pump replacement.
was searching and is the pump fuse located in the passenger side engine fuse panel? didn't even know this existed if so haha
was getting communication error before this replacement.
also: what pins are for what? I want to test the replaced pump with 12v.

edit:
found some info:
Pin 1 is battery voltage
Pin 2 is PWM signal
Pin 3 is a test/BSD signal
Pin 4 is Ground

also from bimmerfest:

Its in the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side. You need to remove the fresh air filter cowl from the top of the engine, in order to remove the cover. The box only has a few fuses in it. It mostly contains wiring harness connections. Right in the middle of the box is a 30amp fuse, all by itself. That is the fuse for the waterpump. Again, no diagram or location call out on the box lid (that I could find).

gonna check this out in a couple minutes, I'll update once done

[moho]

wow that fuse has no reason to be by itself like that. figures...tow and indy inspection for nothing but a 50c fuse.
in other words it's working fine now.

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by moho

wow that fuse has no reason to be by itself like that. figures...tow and indy inspection for nothing but a 50c fuse.
in other words it's working fine now.

What fuse was it?

Under the hood in passenger side?

What type of fuse?

I'm having a similar problem but my brand new waterpump actually works, it just wont activate bleed cycle

[moho]

30a fuse inside white box under hood in passenger side. it's like the only fuse in there

[patents]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

What fuse was it?

Under the hood in passenger side?

What type of fuse?

I'm having a similar problem but my brand new waterpump actually works, it just wont activate bleed cycle

If the fuse is blown the pump won't work at all.

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by moho

30a fuse inside white box under hood in passenger side. it's like the only fuse in there

30A?, I just went through the same exact problem and indeed it was the fuse but Im almost sure its a 40a fuse, Correct me if I'm wrong

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

What fuse was it?

Under the hood in passenger side?

What type of fuse?

I'm having a similar problem but my brand new waterpump actually works, it just wont activate bleed cycle

Pics of the location of ecu/dme box and the exact fuse.


Hope this helps

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by patents

If the fuse is blown the pump won't work at all.

Hmmmmm....

My waterpump is working (brand new replacement), but it just wont bleed cycle for some reason. It did the very first time, but now it refuses to cycle.

The waterpump is good to go. Running like a champ for 2 weeks now and its not throwing any codes.

You guys that had to change your fuse, all of your waterpumps did not work at all?

And big thanks to Fariedk for the visual pictures!!!

[Meeni]

If its a fuse issue, it will not run at all. If it runs but not consistently, the pump itself may be defective, or the thermostat, or the temperature sensor, or at worse the ECU.

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

Hmmmmm....

My waterpump is working (brand new replacement), but it just wont bleed cycle for some reason. It did the very first time, but now it refuses to cycle.

The waterpump is good to go. Running like a champ for 2 weeks now and its not throwing any codes.

You guys that had to change your fuse, all of your waterpumps did not work at all?

And big thanks to Fariedk for the visual pictures!!!

No problem on the pics



I had the same issue couple weeks ago, I just finished replacing water pump and thermostat(brand new oem) along with all coolant hoses. Put everything together and started the car. Radiator Fans did not kick on until the car reached about 210 degrees so I automatically assumed that everything was working. (read on here some where that if the water pump is not working the fans will turn on immediately upon start of the car). Left the car running to see if it would over heat and eventually it started overheating. So I started checking all fuses and found the 40amp fuse in the eco box was blown. replaced the fuse and everything is perfect now.

[bsmoov]

Originally Posted by Fariedk

No problem on the pics



I had the same issue couple weeks ago, I just finished replacing water pump and thermostat(brand new oem) along with all coolant hoses. Put everything together and started the car. Radiator Fans did not kick on until the car reached about 210 degrees so I automatically assumed that everything was working. (read on here some where that if the water pump is not working the fans will turn on immediately upon start of the car). Left the car running to see if it would over heat and eventually it started overheating. So I started checking all fuses and found the 40amp fuse in the eco box was blown. replaced the fuse and everything is perfect now.

Everything is perfect for me too. Everything works as should and car runs great.

Only problem is the pump wont start the bleed cycle. It only did the first initial time. I want to bleed it again because Im OCD, but I cant get it to activate the washing machine sound.

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

Everything is perfect for me too. Everything works as should and car runs great.

Only problem is the pump wont start the bleed cycle. It only did the first initial time. I want to bleed it again because Im OCD, but I cant get it to activate the washing machine sound.

How are you doing the bleed cycle? are you following these instructions below?


1.Insert the key into the dash slot and hit the starter button (but don’t start the engine – e.g. keep your foot off the bake/clutch).
2When the ignition is on, set the heater to the highest temp (84 deg.) and set the fan on low.
3.Hold down the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds then release. This activates the water pump and it will cycle for about 12 minutes to vent all the trapped air into the coolant reservoir (it sounds like a min washing machine). Don’t open the reservoir cap or bleed screw during the venting process! (you’ll have start the process over) You may want to hook up a extra battery to the under-hood jumper points to keep the car’s battery from running down.
4. Once the water pump stops after 12 minutes, open the reservoir cap (it will hiss a little) and add coolant until the measuring stick (ball indicator) is 6 mm above the top of the filler neck. (review the manual procedure for checking the coolant level so you know what I’m saying)
5. Close the cap and check for leaks in the system (the hose connections you took off)

[bsmoov]

Yup. Exactly how I did it. I've never had a problem bleeding/cycling the waterpump.

I had an e91 prior to this e90 and I did the wp/ts on that car as well.

I don't know what's going on. Maybe the electrical connection at the pump...haven't checked yet and not looking forward to taking off the underpanel and radiator lower support just yet.

I replaced the battery. That wasn't it.

Some people said fuse, but apparently the waterpump wont even operate with a burnt fuse so I'm going to rule that out.

Another person said the distributor box on top of the battery.

I don't know what it is, and the car is driving great (my daily), so I'm not too concerned about it just yet, but eager to find a solution...

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

Yup. Exactly how I did it. I've never had a problem bleeding/cycling the waterpump.

I had an e91 prior to this e90 and I did the wp/ts on that car as well.

I don't know what's going on. Maybe the electrical connection at the pump...haven't checked yet and not looking forward to taking off the underpanel and radiator lower support just yet.

I replaced the battery. That wasn't it.

Some people said fuse, but apparently the waterpump wont even operate with a burnt fuse so I'm going to rule that out.

Another person said the distributor box on top of the battery.

I don't know what it is, and the car is driving great (my daily), so I'm not too concerned about it just yet, but eager to find a solution...

How is the heat in the car? If the heats working theres really no point of bleeding it again.

[patents]

Originally Posted by bsmoov

I don't know what's going on. Maybe the electrical connection at the pump...haven't checked yet and not looking forward to taking off the underpanel and radiator lower support just yet.

If the pump runs while driving, then the electrical connection, fuses, etc. are all fine. The issue is that the computer is not commanding the pump to run the bleed cycle. The pump works fine otherwise, the difference is the electronic command to the pump.

I have no idea why the computer isn't initiating the bleed cycle. The way these cars are, there could be a number of reasons. Maybe the car has to be below a certain temperature. Or x minutes since last started. Who knows. Maybe it doesn't detect a chance in coolant level and has decided it doesn't need to run a bleed cycle.

I wouldn't worry about it.

[PichaDis11]

To OP, If there is fuse blown, you'll likely need to check the cause to why the fuse got blown in the first place. Probably loose connector to the pump or wire shorting to ground etc..

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by PichaDis11

To OP, If there is fuse blown, you'll likely need to check the cause to why the fuse got blown in the first place. Probably loose connector to the pump or wire shorting to ground etc..

Yes the reason why my fuse was blown was the connector for the thermostat was ripped so that cause the fuse to blow

[PichaDis11]

Originally Posted by Fariedk

Yes the reason why my fuse was blown was the connector for the thermostat was ripped so that cause the fuse to blow

Nice!

[Bamaben]

Originally Posted by Fariedk

Yes the reason why my fuse was blown was the connector for the thermostat was ripped so that cause the fuse to blow

My tstat wires were bent like at 30 degrees so they broke off. Here's my thread with part no's if you need to lengthen your wires.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952692

[Fariedk]

Originally Posted by Bamaben

My tstat wires were bent like at 30 degrees so they broke off. Here's my thread with part no's if you need to lengthen your wires.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952692

I already replaced everything a while back, Thanks though