[Centex Hokie]

I purchased a Cobb Accessport. It is supposed to arrive tomorrow. A couple of questions.

1. Is the first step to make sure that the firmware is updated on the unit?
2. Is the 2nd step to hook it to the computer to determine the model of the ECU prior to downloading maps?
3. Why are the map notes the same for Stage 1 and Stage 1+ FMIC?

Thanks in advance for answering.

[enrita]

No first just install it. Do you have FMIC ? if not you can only run stage 1. install stage 1 sport and see which map you get (probably 401 which is latest so you are fine).
I would than connect it to the laptop , copy the rom to the laptop (you will still have a shadow copy on the AP) , update the ap and check the maps on their site.

[Centex Hokie]

Thanks. I read on the Subaru site that you check the firmware version first, but I guess it is different on this one.

No I don't have an upgraded FMIC, but was considering both an FMIC and downpipes. I was just surprised that the Stage 1 and Stage 1+FMIC notes say exactly the same HP and torque gains.

[Fully_Bolted]

Originally Posted by Centex Hokie

Thanks. I read on the Subaru site that you check the firmware version first, but I guess it is different on this one.

No I don't have an upgraded FMIC, but was considering both an FMIC and downpipes. I was just surprised that the Stage 1 and Stage 1+FMIC notes say exactly the same HP and torque gains.

That must be a typo. Best bang for the buck is to go intake + tune + FMIC, followed by downpipes if you're still wanting more power. The stage 1 + FMIC maps are known to be more powerful than the stage 2 maps. Stage 2 + FMIC on the other hand is the most powerful off the shelf map (Non race or E85).

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by Fully_Bolted

That must be a typo. Best bang for the buck is to go intake + tune + FMIC, followed by downpipes if you're still wanting more power. The stage 1 + FMIC maps are known to be more powerful than the stage 2 maps. Stage 2 + FMIC on the other hand is the most powerful off the shelf map (Non race or E85).

Thanks. I thought that might be the case especially here in Texas where the turbos are usually breathing hot air. I'll probably do those in stages since I already have a DCI and I can put on the FMIC. The downpipes look to be a lot more difficult to install to me. I do have a 4 post lift, but I'm getting kinda old to do contortions.

[mump]

here's a little hint that I learned yesterday. I am coming from an Evo X with a AP, so I am familiar with them. However, I read yesterday (after about pulling my hair out), on a BMW the door needs to be shut when trying to flash the car.

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by mump

here's a little hint that I learned yesterday. I am coming from an Evo X with a AP, so I am familiar with them. However, I read yesterday (after about pulling my hair out), on a BMW the door needs to be shut when trying to flash the car.

Thanks. Since I have E93, I'm planning on doing the tune with top down, windows down and standing outside the car. I don't want to sit there for 45 minutes. I also have found threads where people had a battery problem, so I will hook up a trickle charger.

[mump]

smart. I have a E93 too but, like a dumbass, sat in the car the whole time.

Had no problems with the battery though.

[Turbo Frenetic]

Originally Posted by mump

here's a little hint that I learned yesterday. I am coming from an Evo X with a AP, so I am familiar with them. However, I read yesterday (after about pulling my hair out), on a BMW the door needs to be shut when trying to flash the car.

Same on Nissan GTR

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by mump

smart. I have a E93 too but, like a dumbass, sat in the car the whole time.

Had no problems with the battery though.

What do you think of the tune. I had a Procede V5 in the car which I liked, but it was a pain to take in and out to go to the dealer. I still have 2 more years of warranty that I will take reasonable measures to retain.

[enrita]

i have flashed like a 100 times with a battery from 2007 , never had an issue. just switch off everything lower the window and start the flashing outside the car .

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by enrita

i have flashed like a 100 times with a battery from 2007 , never had an issue. just switch off everything lower the window and start the flashing outside the car .

You're probably right, but I have a trickle charger so it just seems like a little insurance at no cost.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

You can plug in your AP to your computer and try to update to a later version if possible.

Otherwise just plug it in and follow the prompts for install. Takes about 15-20 minutes the first time.

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

You can plug in your AP to your computer and try to update to a later version if possible.

Otherwise just plug it in and follow the prompts for install. Takes about 15-20 minutes the first time.

Thanks. I had seen a couple of reports of 45 minutes for the 1st time. I'll do it from outside in either case.

[marv85]

The install takes a while because it has to download the software on your car first (may be 10-15 mins), then it will install the COBB software which is around 30mins.

Just plug and install to your car. Get appropriate maps and go from there.

As enrita mentioned, start with the S1 sport map and log. If everything checks out, go to the S1 agg map (93 octane).

I would also buy a drop in filter, if you don;t want to change your intake box.

Your next step should be an intercooler. FYI, S1+ gives more power then S2 (which requires DPs).

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by marv85

The install takes a while because it has to download the software on your car first (may be 10-15 mins), then it will install the COBB software which is around 30mins.

Just plug and install to your car. Get appropriate maps and go from there.

As enrita mentioned, start with the S1 sport map and log. If everything checks out, go to the S1 agg map (93 octane).

I would also buy a drop in filter, if you don;t want to change your intake box.

Your next step should be an intercooler. FYI, S1+ gives more power then S2 (which requires DPs).

That makes sense. Thanks. I'll try that. I do have an Injen DCI so my next step will be the FMIC. I do like the ability to log the improvements as an engineer I can never get enough data

[marv85]

Originally Posted by Centex Hokie

That makes sense. Thanks. I'll try that. I do have an Injen DCI so my next step will be the FMIC. I do like the ability to log the improvements as an engineer I can never get enough data

Same here

PM me if you need help.

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by marv85

Same here

PM me if you need help.

Thanks. Hopefully it will be as easy as advertised. When I did the Procede tune the 2nd time after taking it out I put in wire connectors to make it easier. After the 8th time installing and uninstalling I found this. I am hopeful that the boost will be comparable.

[marv85]

OTS maps are conservative usually but still give you great power for your mods. Once you are full FBO, you can run the race maps which are great ( and even those are conservative hehe)

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by marv85

OTS maps are conservative usually but still give you great power for your mods. Once you are full FBO, you can run the race maps which are great ( and even those are conservative hehe)

I was looking at pro tuners? I am a couple of hours from Plano. Any idea how long it takes Cobb to do a custom tune?

[BobS]

My protuned took about a hour on the dyno, I would only protune the car after buying all the supporting mods

[Centex Hokie]

Originally Posted by BobS

My protuned took about a hour on the dyno, I would only protune the car after buying all the supporting mods

Thanks.