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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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2008 BMW 335xi Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement
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06-08-2015, 02:31 PM | #1 |
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2008 BMW 335xi Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement
Does anyone have any tips/tricks on the replacement of the water pump and thermostat on this car? I can find some pictures and video regarding the rear wheel drive models but nothing on the AWD models. Any help?
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06-08-2015, 02:59 PM | #2 |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ight=waterpump
This is a good start. The biggest difference is the front axle being in the way of the rear hose and everything is packed in there so tightly. Many of the people with XIs said they had an easier time once they took off the passenger front wheel for more room. Good luck.......just need a lot of time, patience, swivel extensions, and cold beer once finished. |
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06-09-2015, 06:11 AM | #3 | |
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06-09-2015, 11:36 AM | #4 |
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Yes when I did it the job was a PITA. Knowing what I know now after doing the front diff I would drop the subframe and it would be waaaay easier. I know it sounds hairy but only 6 bolts to drop the subframe and support the engine from the bottom with a jack stand/wood. Keep the sway bar links attached and the subframe will just hang there out of the way.
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335i FBO,Meth,JB4,Sutphin flash,LSD,GCLites 11.25@127.4 on NT05R
335xi FBO,Meth,JB4,Sutphin flash,VTT stage1 11.38 1/4 - 7.30 1/8th - 3.35 0 to 60 @ 0C |
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06-09-2015, 12:56 PM | #6 |
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06-09-2015, 04:50 PM | #8 |
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Okay, I will need to clear any water pump/thermostat codes before I do the job ... anyone give me a rundown on how to do it or am I going to need an OBD connection?
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06-10-2015, 07:10 AM | #9 |
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You will need a code reader, Carly for BMW app, etc. unless someone knows a way to clear them that I don't.
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06-10-2015, 09:52 PM | #10 |
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Dropped the sub-frame, was SO much easier. Took me only 5 hours to complete. No signs of leaks. The only issue I seem to have is the A/C is not blowing very cold. Perhaps I need to have a shop check for code errors and see if the A/C is not working 100% because of it.
Thanks for all the help ! |
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06-10-2015, 10:47 PM | #11 |
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here's a DIY I posted of the job. Some of the commenters did it differently, but this was what made it most accessible for me.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17366784 |
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06-11-2015, 06:01 AM | #12 |
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Well, just for information's sake. I had access to a lift at an auto hobby shop. With the help of a screw jack, I did lower the sub-frame and disconnected a few of the items in the front and that was all the room I needed. Saved me $1,000, only cost $550!
That sub-frame tip helped me out a bunch! |
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06-11-2015, 07:02 AM | #14 |
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Yep, that's what I have. Great tool to have if you ever want to code some simple things too. Great interface. If you check out the coding section there's a thread on it.
Last edited by niquehawk5; 06-11-2015 at 07:13 AM.. |
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06-11-2015, 08:49 PM | #15 |
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No need to drop the subframe... Take off the passenger side front tire and fender well liner, the sway bar bushing mounts, the power steering cooler mounts. I just did my pump and t stat this past Monday. It should only take 4 hours on your back.
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ASE master tech (many moons ago)335xi- JB4 G5 iso/e50 custom flash/Custom meth/Borla mids/Custom x-pipe/DCI/ER charge pipe/Dual Ebay BOV's/Alpina B3 flash/Paddle shifter retro fit
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06-11-2015, 09:22 PM | #16 | |
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335i FBO,Meth,JB4,Sutphin flash,LSD,GCLites 11.25@127.4 on NT05R
335xi FBO,Meth,JB4,Sutphin flash,VTT stage1 11.38 1/4 - 7.30 1/8th - 3.35 0 to 60 @ 0C |
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06-11-2015, 10:11 PM | #17 |
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I agree...especially since the subframe uses stretch bolts which are to be replaced upon every removal.
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