Splash liquid acid cleaner vs. hard water etching spots?

clairvoyant · 11-22-2010, 09:06 PM

Has anybody here tried splash liquid acid cleaner?
http://www.mark-v.com/products/cleaning.html

As careful as I can be, hard water etching spots are inevitable.
I just don't have the time to do clay/polish/wax routines every time the hard water etching spots reappear.
Thank you for any feedback.

TOGWT · 11-23-2010, 05:24 AM

Drying methodology- provided the paint finish has been rinsed adequately (See Drying a Vehicle using water) there should be no dirt residue. Water is a good solvent but a very poor surface lubricator. Try using a drying aid type detailer like Dodo Juice USA Time to Dry diluted 1:1 with distilled water, which provides lubricity to the paint's surface, in tandem with a damp waffle weave towel (wt, wring and then wipe) when drying your car - this will help break the surface tension of the beads causing the water to run off, allowing the towel to soak up more, and minimise water spots while lowering the friction of the towel over the surface.

Take two waffle-weave drying towels; one soaking wet (a wet towel wicks away more water than a dry towel) and one damp. Wring out the wet towel and use it as your primary drying towel, check and rinse the towel often. Wring it out as you go, this will leave smaller wet streaks, which you can remove with your damp towel and it should leave a ‘streak’ free paint surface

If you should notice 'water marks' (provided they are not etched into the cc) use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)/distilled water

clairvoyant · 11-23-2010, 07:42 AM

The hard water spots are already etched unfortunately. That is why I am looking for a practical yet time saving solution to "fix" it other than the time consuming clay/polish/wax routines.

I am very careful on drying and such however when I go to clients' places with rain/sun or hard water sprinkler, I am not fast enough to wipe those water spots (held up on 3 hour meetings, etc, etc).

That is why I am wondering if the acid cleaner is the way to go or if it safe or not.

Bobble · 11-23-2010, 10:53 AM

OP where are you located, I'm longitude and Latitude challenged? I have some CG waterpost stuff you can try or have but am in in Socal. I don't use the stuff myself so no endorsement just an offer.

clairvoyant · 11-23-2010, 12:48 PM

I am in Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA.
I tried Duragloss #505 WSR (Water Spot Remover) but no luck.
Is that CG waterpost similar?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobble

OP where are you located, I'm longitude and Latitude challenged? I have some CG waterpost stuff you can try or have but am in in Socal. I don't use the stuff myself so no endorsement just an offer.

Bobble · 11-23-2010, 01:48 PM

Yep and unless the Ducks are playing the Senators I won't be in Ottawa any time soon. Sounds like you'll need to caly and polish to get it out!

clairvoyant · 11-23-2010, 02:20 PM

Go Sens go.....
Sadly, I am actually from San Jose, CA.

Yeah, I clay/polish/wax when I see the water spots but the routines are getting old.
Once rain or the hard water from sprinklers drop and dry, the hard water spots are back then I clay/polish/wax. It's a viscous cycle.
I am just wondering if http://www.aquartz.net/aquartz.html will do the trick to prevent those water spots once I clay and polish.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobble

Yep and unless the Ducks are playing the Senators I won't be in Ottawa any time soon. Sounds like you'll need to caly and polish to get it out!

TOGWT · 11-24-2010, 05:36 AM

Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.

• Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
• Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface

clairvoyant · 11-24-2010, 08:07 PM

I do the wash/clay/polish/wax routine when I see the hard water etching spots and YES.... the routine works.
However this routine is time consuming and over time it will "eat" the clear coat.
That is why I am wondering if splash liquid acid cleaner or something similar will do the job faster.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOGWT

Below surface (etched) spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat.

• Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules
• Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface

11-22-2010, 09:06 PM	#1
clairvoyant Major 79 Rep 1,032 Posts Drives: Bavarian Manure Wagon (BMW) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 45°19′20″N, 75°50′0″W iTrader: (5) Garage List 2007 335i [5.24]	Splash liquid acid cleaner vs. hard water etching spots? Has anybody here tried splash liquid acid cleaner? http://www.mark-v.com/products/cleaning.html As careful as I can be, hard water etching spots are inevitable. I just don't have the time to do clay/polish/wax routines every time the hard water etching spots reappear. Thank you for any feedback.
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11-23-2010, 05:24 AM	#2
TOGWT Captain 11 Rep 770 Posts Drives: 630i Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL / London, UK iTrader: (0)	Drying methodology- provided the paint finish has been rinsed adequately (See Drying a Vehicle using water) there should be no dirt residue. Water is a good solvent but a very poor surface lubricator. Try using a drying aid type detailer like Dodo Juice USA Time to Dry diluted 1:1 with distilled water, which provides lubricity to the paint's surface, in tandem with a damp waffle weave towel (wt, wring and then wipe) when drying your car - this will help break the surface tension of the beads causing the water to run off, allowing the towel to soak up more, and minimise water spots while lowering the friction of the towel over the surface. Take two waffle-weave drying towels; one soaking wet (a wet towel wicks away more water than a dry towel) and one damp. Wring out the wet towel and use it as your primary drying towel, check and rinse the towel often. Wring it out as you go, this will leave smaller wet streaks, which you can remove with your damp towel and it should leave a ‘streak’ free paint surface If you should notice 'water marks' (provided they are not etched into the cc) use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)/distilled water
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-23-2010, 07:42 AM	#3
clairvoyant Major 79 Rep 1,032 Posts Drives: Bavarian Manure Wagon (BMW) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: 45°19′20″N, 75°50′0″W iTrader: (5) Garage List 2007 335i [5.24]	Still etching blues The hard water spots are already etched unfortunately. That is why I am looking for a practical yet time saving solution to "fix" it other than the time consuming clay/polish/wax routines. I am very careful on drying and such however when I go to clients' places with rain/sun or hard water sprinkler, I am not fast enough to wipe those water spots (held up on 3 hour meetings, etc, etc). That is why I am wondering if the acid cleaner is the way to go or if it safe or not.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-23-2010, 10:53 AM	#4
Bobble Major 56 Rep 1,232 Posts Drives: Whatever POS the wife leaves Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: SoCal iTrader: (1)	OP where are you located, I'm longitude and Latitude challenged? I have some CG waterpost stuff you can try or have but am in in Socal. I don't use the stuff myself so no endorsement just an offer.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-23-2010, 01:48 PM	#6
Bobble Major 56 Rep 1,232 Posts Drives: Whatever POS the wife leaves Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: SoCal iTrader: (1)	Yep and unless the Ducks are playing the Senators I won't be in Ottawa any time soon. Sounds like you'll need to caly and polish to get it out!
	Appreciate 0 Quote

11-24-2010, 05:36 AM	#8
TOGWT Captain 11 Rep 770 Posts Drives: 630i Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL / London, UK iTrader: (0)	*Below surface (etched) spots-* (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Unlike water spots which typically have a white outline of the spot, acid rain etching is smaller and you can see the damage in the clear coat. • Use detailing clay to remove any `hard' surface granules • Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the paint surface
	Appreciate 0 Quote