[O-cha]

Bubbles, another thing, what size tires did you have on the koseis again?

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by M3to335

I doubt two laps on any track would make your stock pads worthless. I run the car up to 140-145mph into hard braking 2x on every lap! Knock on wood, I've never had any issues with fade and so forth. According to others, the track I frequent is rather kind to brakes so that may be some of the reason.

I surmise the "brake friendly" track contributes to your ability to stay on the stock brake pads. Enjoy it while you can, the pads are free!

Be careful, however. Granted my setup, with the R-comps allows much harder braking, but at the same time, the first time those pads exceed their Max Operating Temp (MOT), it's gonna scare the snot out of you.

The pedal is firm as hell but provide absolutely no friction.

Of course, once you go R-comp and race pads, you'll be heating the brakes so much that you'll fry the piston dust boots really quickly. With titanium shields, I fried a new set of dust boots in one day. DOH!

[M3to335]

I just noticed its recorded in windescreen then YouTube formated it 4:3. This could explain why the runoff looks small to me. My videos do the same crap and it drives me nuts!

Brake update....

I contacted Performance Friction to see if they can make me a set. I read on bimmerforums that someone had them whipped up for a 335. I tried contacting them last MARCH and they never got back to me. We'll see!

[M3to335]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Bubbles, another thing, what size tires did you have on the koseis again?

I know you werent asking me, but Im running 255s square on my Koseis.

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

I surmise the "brake friendly" track contributes to your ability to stay on the stock brake pads. Enjoy it while you can, the pads are free!

Be careful, however. Granted my setup, with the R-comps allows much harder braking, but at the same time, the first time those pads exceed their Max Operating Temp (MOT), it's gonna scare the snot out of you.

The pedal is firm as hell but provide absolutely no friction.

Of course, once you go R-comp and race pads, you'll be heating the brakes so much that you'll fry the piston dust boots really quickly. With titanium shields, I fried a new set of dust boots in one day. DOH!

I am running R-comps right now, but honestly dont feel comfortable with stock pads. Hopefully Performance Friction gets back to me

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Bubbles, another thing, what size tires did you have on the koseis again?

245/40/17s, I'm looking into the 255/40/17 NT01s or R888s. I think both will rub in the front without camber plates.

I've also considered the Dunlops you are running. Decisions....decisions.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

I know you werent asking me, but Im running 255s square on my Koseis.



I am running R-comps right now, but honestly dont feel comfortable with stock pads. Hopefully Performance Friction gets back to me

You get no rubbing with your E92? Why not try Cool Carbon's ST/TR pads?

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

I just noticed its recorded in windescreen then YouTube formated it 4:3. This could explain why the runoff looks small to me. My videos do the same crap and it drives me nuts! !

Well, in some spots there is very little runoff, just pass and pray

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

I surmise the "brake friendly" track contributes to your ability to stay on the stock brake pads. Enjoy it while you can, the pads are free!

Be careful, however. Granted my setup, with the R-comps allows much harder braking, but at the same time, the first time those pads exceed their Max Operating Temp (MOT), it's gonna scare the snot out of you.

The pedal is firm as hell but provide absolutely no friction.

Of course, once you go R-comp and race pads, you'll be heating the brakes so much that you'll fry the piston dust boots really quickly. With titanium shields, I fried a new set of dust boots in one day. DOH!

Is there any other way around this issue except than changing them after each of your track day?

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by M3to335

I just noticed its recorded in windescreen then YouTube formated it 4:3. This could explain why the runoff looks small to me. My videos do the same crap and it drives me nuts!

If you actually click the video it will go back into wide screen (viewing it on youtube itself), it only smooshes it when its linked on a forum like this.



bubbles sell your car, I found you a new one http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197724

[M3to335]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

You get no rubbing with your E92? Why not try Cool Carbon's ST/TR pads?

Under VERY hard off camber turning the fronts will rub on the strut. Its a light rub, and hardly anything to worry about. Regardless, I just watejet a set of 2 and 3mm spacers 5 minutes ago to remedy this problem. If the 2's dont work, I'll slap on the 3's. Honestly I think 2mm will take care of it. Hopefully the stock bolts can accomidate the extra 2mm.

The Cool Carbon's are a consideration but I'm pretty financially drained right now after Christmas and the custom exhaust work last week If PF doesnt get back to me, I suppose I would have to drop the dough on CC's

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by kenneth

Is there any other way around this issue except than changing them after each of your track day?

The only "quick and dirty" solution is to put titanium shims between the pad and piston. But I've found that only reduces temps by about 90 degrees F. Which apparently isn't enough since my boots vaporize even with the shims.

I stopped worrying. Lots of really high performance brake kits don't even come with the boots since they fry so easily. Just try not to get grime/salt/crap in the pistons and you'll be fine.

The dust boot protects the inner piston o-ring, which is rubber. If you just rebuild your brakes every year, it shouldn't be a problem. $20 a kit for rebuild.

Alternatively, you can fab up some proper ducts to feed the center of the rotors. Being that I got black flagged by some idiot who thought my glowing rotors were a safety issue (lol), I might have to get some ducts fabbed up.

[leftcoastman]

If you're willing to swap out pads, Hawk makes the HT-10 for our front OEM calipers.

They are great, but are a true race pad. They will not work well on the street and need a lap of warmup before being really effective. I can swap out front OEM pads in about 10 minutes a corner, so it's really not that hard once you get used to it. They are reasonably friendly to the rotors, too.

Porterfield makes the R4 race pads for our front calipers, but I've found that the Kevlar part of it sucks. The glue that holds the kevlar together doesn't work above a certain temperature. As a result, the pads start disintegrating and cracking after a few track sessions.

I've run the Porterfield R4-E in the rear OEM calipers to good effect. It helped get rid of some of the wiggle I got under heavy braking. They aren't perfect, however. I believe I get them above the max operating temp because they do poop pad material on my rotors.

Again, you would need to swap those out after a track event. But drive em home, since cold pads are really abrasive and will help clean off your rotors. To be honest, I prefer swapping pads. It allows me to inspect my brake system prior to track days.

Getting to a high rate of speed is optional. Slowing down of your own volition is not.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by O-cha

If you actually click the video it will go back into wide screen (viewing it on youtube itself), it only smooshes it when its linked on a forum like this.



bubbles sell your car, I found you a new one http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197724

I can't fit in that thing!

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by M3to335

Under VERY hard off camber turning the fronts will rub on the strut. Its a light rub, and hardly anything to worry about. Regardless, I just watejet a set of 2 and 3mm spacers 5 minutes ago to remedy this problem. If the 2's dont work, I'll slap on the 3's. Honestly I think 2mm will take care of it. Hopefully the stock bolts can accomidate the extra 2mm.

The Cool Carbon's are a consideration but I'm pretty financially drained right now after Christmas and the custom exhaust work last week If PF doesnt get back to me, I suppose I would have to drop the dough on CC's

I may stick with 245 to be safe.

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

The only "quick and dirty" solution is to put titanium shims between the pad and piston. But I've found that only reduces temps by about 90 degrees F. Which apparently isn't enough since my boots vaporize even with the shims.

I stopped worrying. Lots of really high performance brake kits don't even come with the boots since they fry so easily. Just try not to get grime/salt/crap in the pistons and you'll be fine.

The dust boot protects the inner piston o-ring, which is rubber. If you just rebuild your brakes every year, it shouldn't be a problem. $20 a kit for rebuild.

Alternatively, you can fab up some proper ducts to feed the center of the rotors. Being that I got black flagged by some idiot who thought my glowing rotors were a safety issue (lol), I might have to get some ducts fabbed up.

Thanks for the info, never thought of checking the boot. But I am sure I am not pushing as much as you are, still learning!

On another subject, what do you think of this caliper bushing upgrade? $200 CAN for the 4 corners.

http://bimmershop.netfirms.com/Bimme...roducts_id=422

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

I can't fit in that thing!

BULLSHIT If I can fit you sure as hell can.

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by kenneth

Thanks for the info, never thought of checking the boot. But I am sure I am not pushing as much as you are, still learning!

On another subject, what do you think of this caliper bushing upgrade? $200 CAN for the 4 corners.

http://bimmershop.netfirms.com/Bimme...roducts_id=422

I've heard mixed reviews, but mostly from E36 guys. It's the same kit for our car since the caliper is the same setup, just different sizes.

Basically you have to make sure it's greased well otherwise it'll bind. I *might* try it out on my rears. The stock guides are foolproof but flex like a mofo.

These guides might be the low cost "feel" enhancer. You know, kinda like that stimulating cream they sell in gas station bathroom vending machines.

[leftcoastman]

And FYI guys, I am a strong advocate of checking your brakes after each track day. I have lost brakes deep into triple digit territory...and it is not for the faint of heart.

HPFP issues are annoying. Brake issues can kill ya.

[O-cha]

Meh, brakes still stop pretty well even when half of them are down to the metal, seriously I'm not kidding.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by O-cha

BULLSHIT If I can fit you sure as hell can.

lolol!

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Meh, brakes still stop pretty well even when half of them are down to the metal, seriously I'm not kidding.

The brake system consists of more than just pads.

Busting inner piston seals, popping brake lines, bracket bolts that worked their way loose....those all can cause catastrophic loss of braking ability. BTDT on more than a few of the above. On day 31, I checked and found that my front right caliper bolt vibrated itself loose and was two threads away from coming off. Good thing I found it in the paddock and not in the heavy braking zone.

Moreover, I am not sure if the BMW system has "ice mode" but here's an example of what happens when you run out of pad on another ABS equipped car:

http://www.protege5.com/forum/showth...hp?t=123684925

[M3to335]

Pad Update:

Performance Friction got back to me and said they dont have the demand for a 335 specific pad. Porterfield also got back to me and amazingly enough said they can take an existing pad and modify the backing plate to work with the 335. The cost is stupid high though if you ask me. Christ, its a BRAKE PAD not the fuselage to the space shuttle. Are they usually this high when directly from Perf. Frict?

The following email response is in regards to PF-01...

Yes we do, do that.

Fronts AP 918 01 Compound $275.00
Rears AP 1170 01 Compound $219.00

All you have to do to make this happen is give us a call and place an order with the part numbers I have listed above. 800-537-6842.

Thank you for your interest,
Wendy

I guess Cool Carbon is my only choice