[BB_cuda]

What happened with the pics? They were right side up this morning when I posted. I'm at ~7800 ft altitude staying at Salida, CO. TDI, ready for hiking instead of working on car. Hoping to do a couple 14ers while here.

[fsd350]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

What happened with the pics? They were right side up this morning when I posted. I'm at ~7800 ft altitude staying at Salida, CO. TDI, ready for hiking instead of working on car. Hoping to do a couple 14ers while here.

Great area. We go riding and camping by there all the time. Have fun!

[Mik325tds]

Well done BB_cuda!
How much did the exhaust cost you?

[BB_cuda]

The shop tells me that if someone else comes to get same work done, They will charge more. Not sure me telling you the cost will be meaningful. I bought the N54 circuit werks kit, a y collector 3" in/(2) 2.5" out, 3" and (2) 2.5" flanges and the tips separately. Keep in mind this is a custom mandrel bending shop. The tubing they use is 16 gauge 316L. They mig weld with 316L filler wire and grind the welds smooth. Lots of cleanup and polishing time. They don't want me to give out price as they won't do it for that again. They bid 5 hrs mandrel bending and polishing time and my bill showed 10 hrs actual but they subtracted off the other 5 hrs for me. The business is Ripley's muffler and brakes. 281-444-3885

[feuer]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

The news keeps getting better. At shop getting the wrap around the spare exhausts custom built. I mentioned to the tech about having to remove the uhaul hitch to get tire under there. He encouraged me to bring the hitch in today since I was bringing other parts anyway. The hitch fits behind the spare and there is the thickness of fingers gap in between so this isn't a shoehorn fit. The bike rack can go on with spare still under. I'm psyched!!

What are the two bolts on the subframe for? In the middle section by the differential.

[BB_cuda]

They are left over from a portion of the uhaul hitch that in not using now. The hitch has a long member that goes from the main hitch forward to the rear subframe. This would be for towing level loads. This longitudinal member even had a dip in in to go under the urea tanks. I didn't want that member blocking easy access to spare tire. Besides that, I got the hitch for my bike rack. So the main cross member of the hitch easily covers my needs.
The bolts that are still there are a pain in the butt to feed down through there using the side access holes in the subframe. So, I left the bolts there in case on day I need to tow something. The bar will easily fit under spare.

[BB_cuda]

I ordered another trunk plate so that I have an unmolested one. There is only one in all of USA according to parts guy. No rush as its only going in the attic.

Per input from someone, I'm exploring the concept of mounting the scissor jack underneath as well. Since the tire isn't completely level due to the spar I've mentioned much earlier, I'm going to see if I can weld a piece of c channel and wing nut/small screws to nest the jack into. It would go on the aft end of plate. We'll see. The idea is the spare would sit more flat.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

They are left over from a portion of the uhaul hitch that in not using now. The hitch has a long member that goes from the main hitch forward to the rear subframe. This would be for towing level loads. This longitudinal member even had a dip in in to go under the urea tanks. I didn't want that member blocking easy access to spare tire. Besides that, I got the hitch for my bike rack. So the main cross member of the hitch easily covers my needs.
The bolts that are still there are a pain in the butt to feed down through there using the side access holes in the subframe. So, I left the bolts there in case on day I need to tow something. The bar will easily fit under spare.

I had to reinstall the fore/aft member of the uhaul hitch. The bike fell down from the hitch rocking back and forth too much. So, unforetunately now i have to removed this bar if i need to get spare down. The good news is bikes on rack are now stable as before. I will need to keep 19 mm open end wrench and ratchet with 19 mm socket on it for bar removal.

As before, all is hidden from view. Still contemplating adding mufflers to last straight shoot before tips. I've spent too much money since beginning of 2015 on this car.

[modobrew]

BB_cuda, this is fantastic. I just stumbled across this thread while looking for ways to remove the DEF tank. Never even thought about possibly installing a spare tire there as well. And your exhaust looks top notch!

[BB_cuda]

Glad you liked it. I see that I have neglected adding in the pictures showing install of the dimpled aluminum cover . I did this about a month ago.

I had to custom cut the passive tank cover in half. I then had to shape each piece to go further up into the cavity. The covers go up vertically as before but now all the way to the black trunk plate and then turn in board. I took urea tank to h/w store with me to find stainless self tapping screws that match the thread profiles of the little screw tips sticking down off tanks. I ground the SS screw's heads flat and superglued them to structure. I drilled holes in the dimpled covers to allow the bonded screws to come through. All of this was to be able to use the OEM nut plates that were mounting the dimpled cover to the passive urea tank. It looks pretty good. The other detail I took advantage of was the two studs sticking down from the black trunk plate. I purchased low profile nuts with large diameter washers to secure the covers further in board as well. These covers aren't going anywhere. I remounted the spare. To be clear the 2 half covers do not meet at the center because I had to use more material going up vertically that before. The spare covers up where the two covers don't meet.

No mufflers added on the final straight runs just before tips. The dimpled cover is making it crowded on the passenger side where battery compartment is. I might have to pick whether muffler goes in and cover comes out. There is plenty room on driver's side for both cover and muffler to be there. The driver's side is where there would be an open cavity if dimpled cover weren't there. Go back up in thread and look at pic and you will understand. I will but a pre cover and post cover pic in side by side to aid in the understanding.

Fiddling with the details distinguish a well finished project from a "sort of okay" project. I wanted it to look somewhat professional and think I got fairly close to my goal. Lots of $$$ though.

[335ddd]

sorry to resurrect an old thread but maybe someone can help me with this:

As some of you might already know, Vredestein sells spare master tires which are deflated. Since Vredenstein doesnt sell BMW compatible spare master kit maybe using an adapter of some sorts will make it work on our cars.

http://www.vredestein.com/Sitefiles/...aster_2012.pdf

From the looks of it BavAuto tire kit (135/80-17) is being marketed as e90 spare tire kit. its 25" wide and will not fit where DEF/SCR tank goes via trunk top access.

But a 17" rim with deflated tire might. can anyone confirm? I am assuming deflated tire adds another 1" or so.

current specs:
BMW OEM 225/40-18
circumference 1943mm
static rol radius 299mm
dynamic rol radius 309mm

Bavauto 135/80-17
circumference 1976mm
static rol radius 300mm
dynamic rol radius 314mm

MB SLK/SLK63 5x112 Vredestein 145/70-17
circumference 1936mm
static rol radius 295mm
dynamic rol radius 308mm

HOLDEN lpg wagon 5x120 Vredestein (bmw pattern?) 205/45-17
circumference 1880mm
static rol radius 288mm
dynamic rol radius 299mm


Could a smaller tire combined with 328 trunk inlay (2 molded together?) be a solution?
5x120 to 5x112 adapter ? Holdens 5x120 rim?
http://www.urotuning.com/H-R-BMW-5x1...qf4aAr9p8P8HAQ


or simply unmount MB 145/70-17 tire from MB spare tire rim and mount it on BMWs BAVauto rim (aka e60 spare rim) but will this rim support 145/70-17 keeping in mind that it unrolls as it gets inflated? is it safe?

[BB_cuda]

335ddd, take a look at the single post link. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=18
This is in fact a 145/70R17 tire on the E60 rim (17x4 steel rim). Maxxis sells this size of compact spare but it's pricey at ~$145 +tax+shipping. I had to pay taxes as it shipped from within Texas.

You mind was on the right track to merge two 328 under compartments. I considered this too. Unfortunately, The front to back distance is too short. My spare has to overlap the spar just aft of the rear subframe. There is a picture where I point to what I mean by this structural spar. link to picture of spar. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...2&postcount=15

I don't feel the deflated 145/70R17 is going to make a difference. Do this. pull back carpet in trunk. You are trying to approximate the fore to aft distance of the hole in the trunk. The fore to aft dimension of black plate is longer than the hole. I'm unsure how much. The diameter of the spare has to fit the through hole. I don't think this will work.

If you did merge (2) 328 shells together (fiberglass and resin I'm guessing), you will have to go to a single pipe exhaust (I would use a 3" for the single by the way) and the muffler would likely not fit. The 328 compartment is shifted to passenger side and the 328 muffler is on the left. The inner dimension of the 328 compartment is even more narrow than the edge to edge distance of the hole.

Good luck. I think you need to stow underneath like I did. Either way, the exhaust will have to be custom in the trunk area.

[moejav]

Is removing the DEF Tank difficult? I am getting ready to install downpipe w/cat, cat-back exhaust, intercooler, egr cooler delete and do the Stage II+ tune. Downpipe has DPR delete, and exhaust has SCR delete... I'm thinking on just removing the DEF tank when we're there...

[335dlci]

Cuda, have you tried a full size tire and wheel combo? Like a 225/40-18?

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

Cuda, have you tried a full size tire and wheel combo? Like a 225/40-18?

No, I have not. Diameter wise, it is near identical. Compact spare (145/70R17) is 24.99" diameter. 225/40-18 diameter is 25.08". I wanted the tire to not show as in stick down too far. If you don't care about that, I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work but you may need a longer stud welded onto the black plate. I used a 6" one. I recall McMaster had an 8" one (1/2-13 threading is what I used with matching wing nut). It might be okay with the 6" too.

I put the outer face of the wheel "up". The larger width wheel will likely have a bigger offset so it will possibly be able to get stud to come down far enough to get the 6.25" supporting disc and wing nut on. My stuck protrudes about 2" past the disc IIRC.

If anyone tries to do my same arrangement, I wished I done one thing (maybe 2) before welding the stud on. I wished I had drilled the 1/2-13 threaded rod for a small lock or at least a cotter pin. No one can see it so theft shouldn't be an issue. I check the wing nut from time to time to see if it has loosened. It has not budged. Trying to drill it after welded on will be a pain in the butt.

Then second thing is I used mild steel parts for the threaded rod and wing nut. They are rusting as I am at Gulf coast region. I need to disassemble and paint it black.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

No, I have not. Diameter wise, it is near identical. Compact spare (145/70R17) is 24.99" diameter. 225/40-18 diameter is 25.08". I wanted the tire to not show as in stick down too far. If you don't care about that, I wouldn't see why it wouldn't work but you may need a longer stud welded onto the black plate. I used a 6" one. I recall McMaster had an 8" one (1/2-13 threading is what I used with matching wing nut). It might be okay with the 6" too.

I put the outer face of the wheel "up". The larger width wheel will likely have a bigger offset so it will possibly be able to get stud to come down far enough to get the 6.25" supporting disc and wing nut on. My stuck protrudes about 2" past the disc IIRC.

If anyone tries to do my same arrangement, I wished I done one thing (maybe 2) before welding the stud on. I wished I had drilled the 1/2-13 threaded rod for a small lock or at least a cotter pin. No one can see it so theft shouldn't be an issue. I check the wing nut from time to time to see if it has loosened. It has not budged. Trying to drill it after welded on will be a pain in the butt.

Then second thing is I used mild steel parts for the threaded rod and wing nut. They are rusting as I am at Gulf coast region. I need to disassemble and paint it black.

I was also looking at the sizes of wheel diameter as you mentioned. I'm kinda curious how much a 18x8 would hang down under the bumper point of view. Wonder if something could be fabed up so you could release the spare from inside of the trunk on a cable kinda like a Tahoe or f150 or like a e83 x3

[BB_cuda]

One thing at a time please. Perhaps I could be coaxed into putting front wheel (18x8 msport wheel with 225/40R18 tire) up in there and snapping a picture. The spare would have to go on the front for car to be level from proper picture.

Domestic trucks typically use a cable +reel arrangement. But there is an access hole in the base of the bed (at least on my 2003 Dodge Ram) to pass through the long crank to a socket within the reel. This isn't a bad idea. My arrangement requires a manual hoisting into place until you can get the disc and wing nut on. Like I say, the only problem would be figuring out how to access the socket for winding. I would think the hoist would be held on underneath by several bolts. You would need to make sure the wheel holder on the very end of cable will properly "nest" into the wheel to hold it. Thieves often cut this cable to steal the spare tire on trucks. Let us know if you try the reel method please.

Go to junk yard and investigate if there is one that has crank hole pointing upward. Look at many different SUVs as the trucks will have the hole in the back. The only negative would be you would need an access hole drilled into black plate. I would pic a hole size that fits a large automotive rubber plug. Use plug to keep water/mess/fod from getting into trunk and then pull out plug when spare needs to be lowered or raised. Nice idea!

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

One thing at a time please. Perhaps I could be coaxed into putting front wheel (18x8 msport wheel with 225/40R18 tire) up in there and snapping a picture. The spare would have to go on the front for car to be level from proper picture.

Domestic trucks typically use a cable +reel arrangement. But there is an access hole in the base of the bed (at least on my 2003 Dodge Ram) to pass through the long crank to a socket within the reel. This isn't a bad idea. My arrangement requires a manual hoisting into place until you can get the disc and wing nut on. Like I say, the only problem would be figuring out how to access the socket for winding. I would think the hoist would be held on underneath by several bolts. You would need to make sure the wheel holder on the very end of cable will properly "nest" into the wheel to hold it. Thieves often cut this cable to steal the spare tire on trucks. Let us know if you try the reel method please.

Go to junk yard and investigate if there is one that has crank hole pointing upward. Look at many different SUVs as the trucks will have the hole in the back. The only negative would be you would need an access hole drilled into black plate. I would pic a hole size that fits a large automotive rubber plug. Use plug to keep water/mess/fod from getting into trunk and then pull out plug when spare needs to be lowered or raised. Nice idea!

I was brain storming the strange idea last night and I was thinking if the cable went down the center of the black plate with some kind of roller/bearing system (couldn't find one, maybe it was my search results) so the cable wouldn't chaff the plate or wear out the cable over time and maybe have it on a 90 degree bend towards the factory trunk locking mechanism where you could wind it up and down from inside of the trunk area.

[BB_cuda]

A Teflon grommet would do the job to prevent chaffing.

I looked on internet and found numerous "spare tire wenches". They all had the crank axis 90° off of the cable axis. They are made to bolt to the bottom of the bed or perhaps a bracket attached to bed. You just suggested the reel be attached on the top side. this would have it attaching up side down so not sure that will work as the cable would be coming out the top of it before going down the grommet hole.

Regardless of how it attaches, you will have a thing in the center of your trunk now not allowing luggage to laid down flatly. You might be fine with that. I wanted the whole trunk un encumbered.

I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING! What if you mount the reel on the bottom of the black plate and point the crank axis toward the DEF door on the driver's side quarter panel. The long crank could fit through there. You will have to look at how well it aligns horizontally and vertically. I can't look through my DEF door to see as a portion of the DEF system is still there. Only way to remove is to remove the rear bumper cover and I'm not game for that. I'm fine with the threaded rod. Go do some detective work. There is another guy that did remove his bumper when he did alphabet delete to get that part out too. I could ask him a couple questions.

The over riding thing here to keep in mind is to use KISS principle (keep it simple stupid). I'll check the bigger tire aspect this weekend if I can.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

A Teflon grommet would do the job to prevent chaffing.

I looked on internet and found numerous "spare tire wenches". They all had the crank axis 90° off of the cable axis. They are made to bolt to the bottom of the bed or perhaps a bracket attached to bed. You just suggested the reel be attached on the top side. this would have it attaching up side down so not sure that will work as the cable would be coming out the top of it before going down the grommet hole.

Regardless of how it attaches, you will have a thing in the center of your trunk now not allowing luggage to laid down flatly. You might be fine with that. I wanted the whole trunk un encumbered.

I JUST THOUGHT OF SOMETHING! What if you mount the reel on the bottom of the black plate and point the crank axis toward the DEF door on the driver's side quarter panel. The long crank could fit through there. You will have to look at how well it aligns horizontally and vertically. I can't look through my DEF door to see as a portion of the DEF system is still there. Only way to remove is to remove the rear bumper cover and I'm not game for that. I'm fine with the threaded rod. Go do some detective work. There is another guy that did remove his bumper when he did alphabet delete to get that part out too. I could ask him a couple questions.

The over riding thing here to keep in mind is to use KISS principle (keep it simple stupid). I'll check the bigger tire aspect this weekend if I can.

Yeah it sounds like it may be too complicated and unnecessary to fab up since you don't use it much(well you hope you don't). Having a 4 month old and the ended stuff to haul around on long trips dosent make it easy to hide a long distance spare.

[BB_cuda]

No go on the 225/40R18 fitting up in there. The distance from bottom of cross member (I call this a spar early in this thread) to exhaust pipe vertically is 7.5". The full size tire is 9" widest width. You need some spacing between rubber and pipe to not burn the tire. Sorry, compact spare is only thing feasible here.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

No go on the 225/40R18 fitting up in there. The distance from bottom of cross member (I call this a spar early in this thread) to exhaust pipe vertically is 7.5". The full size tire is 9" widest width. You need some spacing between rubber and pipe to not burn the tire. Sorry, compact spare is only thing feasible here.

A compact is better than no spare! Thank you for taking the time.and attempting