[kenneth]

Help needed!

Following a short episode of low battery, I now can no longer open the doors using the centre console button, or by using the key. Can't unlock or lock the doors.

Any thoughts?


EDIT: Problem solved - Blown number 57 fuse !

[Randomaccess335]

Maybe wiped ur codes..... Do you know anyone that does coding?
R

[kenneth]

Never did any coding. You think coding is required to lock/unlock doors?

[TenshiWingusu]

Originally Posted by kenneth

Never did any coding. You think coding is required to lock/unlock doors?

could have cooked the door lock actuators. Happened to me, had to used the physical key in the fob. If you blow one it cooks the circuit. There's a fuse you can check first though to verify... i forget what number search for it... but that sounds like one or more of the door lock actuators has shorted fairly common issue with these cars it seems

[robc1976]

Originally Posted by Randomaccess335

Maybe wiped ur codes..... Do you know anyone that does coding?
R

contact "cn555ci" he will fix that and do more! Dude knows his shit!

[cn555ic]

try reinitializing the key fob

1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood.
2. The security system must be in "disarm" mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot.

Enter Code-Learning Mode
3. Open the trunk and leave it open.
4. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat.
5. Close the driver's door.
6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the "off" position and position 2 (ignition "ON", all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will "chirp" once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated.

DO NOT START THE ENGINE

The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds.

The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds.

Registering/Delete ID Code(s)
7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat)
8. Close driver's door.
9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered.
10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes.

Exiting Code-Learning Mode
11. Open driver's door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened.
12. Close trunk.
13. Close driver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will "chirp" twice.
14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation.

[asdsadjsnadf]

Happened to me a few days ago. Turns out I just blew a fuse; try checking the ones listed with the door/key icon.

[cn555ic]

Originally Posted by readyman122

Happened to me a few days ago. Turns out I just blew a fuse; try checking the ones listed with the door/key icon.

Correct. If the initializing doesn't work then check fuses.

[kenneth]

Thanks guys,

Sure hoping this will work. I'll report back after I give this a try. Fingers crossed.



Registering/Delete ID Code(s)
7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat)
8. Close driver's door.
9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered.
10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes.

Not sure I understand what the ID codes are. Is it one for each button on the fob?

[tinnsoldaten]

cn555ic , we love you

Yeah , the instruction was making me a little uncertain about what exactly is being instructed.

Im not home right now , but something similar happend to my car , I have had the battery out while installing aquamist meth controller and boost gauge from P3.

I can look the car with button i dash , but not when Im outside the car and try pressing the key. Then I fool around with handles and buttons everywhere and suddenly I can look it when I try the second time.

I currently also have the cover under steering colum off and all the components there is unhooked.

Thats why I have my issues I hope , got the sos phone problem too.

I will ask you cn555ic if problem is requiring the procedure you informed about here

when I get home. (6th of may)

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by readyman122

Happened to me a few days ago. Turns out I just blew a fuse; try checking the ones listed with the door/key icon.

There are 3 related fuses, 2 x 15 amps small ones, which I can't remove, they are so tiny. I did remove the 30 amp full size one and this one is good.

The key coding does not seem to work, i must be doing something wrong. I cycled the ignition 5 times and can't see what LED would stay lit. Is it an LED on the key? Mine doesn't come with an LED.

[kenneth]

Now thinking the key fobs (both) may be completely drained....

[BMWM.D.]

Check fuse 57 (mini 15 amp) behind the glovebox. It's almost sure to be blown. If it is, replace it with a 20 amp version and then start the engine. This will reset the JBE central lock relays. Then test the locks a bunch and see if any are doing anything strange (sticking, noises, etc.).

On some cars, just installing the larger fuse is good enough. This is BMW's repair procedure for this issue. They say there can be a "normal" amperage spike that can blow the stock 15 amp fuse. I swapped both fuses 56 and 57 with 20 amps in my car just for good measure. It's a really common problem on earlier E90's.

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by cn555ic

try reinitializing the key fob

1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood.
2. The security system must be in "disarm" mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot.

Enter Code-Learning Mode
3. Open the trunk and leave it open.
4. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat.
5. Close the driver's door.
6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the "off" position and position 2 (ignition "ON", all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will "chirp" once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated.

DO NOT START THE ENGINE

The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds.

The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds.

Registering/Delete ID Code(s)
7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat)
8. Close driver's door.
9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered.
10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes.

Exiting Code-Learning Mode
11. Open driver's door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened.
12. Close trunk.
13. Close driver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will "chirp" twice.
14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation.

This is for an E36!

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

Check fuse 57 (mini 15 amp) behind the glovebox. It's almost sure to be blown. If it is, replace it with a 20 amp version and then start the engine. This will reset the JBE central lock relays. Then test the locks a bunch and see if any are doing anything strange (sticking, noises, etc.).

On some cars, just installing the larger fuse is good enough. This is BMW's repair procedure for this issue. They say there can be a "normal" amperage spike that can blow the stock 15 amp fuse. I swapped both fuses 56 and 57 with 20 amps in my car just for good measure. It's a really common problem on earlier E90's.

I'll have to go recheck, because first time I checked, 57 there was no fuse in the slot, there's 36 and 37 that are mini 15 amps and 63 the big 30 amps.

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by kenneth

I'll have to go recheck, because first time I checked, 57 there was no fuse in the slot, there's 36 and 37 that are mini 15 amps and 63 the big 30 amps.

What year/ production date is your car? If it's built up to 9/07, then you're looking for fuse 57. If it's after 9/07 (up to 11/08) it's fuse 73. I've personally never seen fuse 73 blown on any car, it's always the earlier cars with fuse 57 blown that I see.

FWIW, fuse 57 is towards the bottom left of the junction box, and is a little tough to get to. Your car should have a red fuse puller from the factory that is designed to make getting the fuses out easier. It should be in the center of the fuse area.

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

What year/ production date is your car? If it's built up to 9/07, then you're looking for fuse 57. If it's after 9/07 (up to 11/08) it's fuse 73. I've personally never seen fuse 73 blown on any car, it's always the earlier cars with fuse 57 blown that I see.

FWIW, fuse 57 is towards the bottom left of the junction box, and is a little tough to get to. Your car should have a red fuse puller from the factory that is designed to make getting the fuses out easier. It should be in the center of the fuse area.

You were damn Right! I confused my numbers, 56 and 57 (not 36 and 37 as I mentioned before) are lower left corner and sure enough BOTH 56 and 57 were blown.

I had all the trouble in the world getting them out, but I eventually was able to grab them. Put in the 20 amps as you suggested!

Problem solved!

Thank you mate

[BTG]

Make sure you replace the fuse with a 20 amp. If it occurs again with the new fuse it will need the door lock actuator

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by BTG

Make sure you replace the fuse with a 20 amp. If it occurs again with the new fuse it will need the door lock actuator

Yup both 56 and 57 changed to 20 amps. The 15 amps were both blown!

[BMWM.D.]

Originally Posted by kenneth

You were damn Right! I confused my numbers, 56 and 57 (not 36 and 37 as I mentioned before) are lower left corner and sure enough BOTH 56 and 57 were blown.

I had all the trouble in the world getting them out, but I eventually was able to grab them. Put in the 20 amps as you suggested!

Problem solved!

Thank you mate

Glad I could help. If one of them pops again, you definitely have an issue.

[sturte30]

I just had a similar issue on my 08 e90 two days ago... Mine was #73... Replaced it. Blew again a few minutes later. Replaced it again... Been fine ever since...

[kenneth]

Originally Posted by BMWM.D.

Glad I could help. If one of them pops again, you definitely have an issue.

Originally Posted by sturte30

I just had a similar issue on my 08 e90 two days ago... Mine was #73... Replaced it. Blew again a few minutes later. Replaced it again... Been fine ever since...

I think there is an outside chance it might be related to the ECS tuning vent boost gauge I installed recently, perhaps the power tap may be causing this or it may be unrelated!