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      01-09-2014, 11:07 AM   #45
Andy328i
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I keep replacing the damned sensors due to them breaking from snow/ice in the wheels/wheel wells.

If I take the old sensors out, cut the ends off, splice the wires together, then install them, I can just reset the brake wear indicator, and NEVER deal with new sensors again??
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      01-09-2014, 12:21 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy328i View Post
I keep replacing the damned sensors due to them breaking from snow/ice in the wheels/wheel wells.

If I take the old sensors out, cut the ends off, splice the wires together, then install them, I can just reset the brake wear indicator, and NEVER deal with new sensors again??
Yup, that's all you'd have to do.
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      01-10-2014, 07:58 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by 3Coupe4Me View Post
Yup, that's all you'd have to do.
Cool! I'll be doing just that this weekend - nothing like seeing a car on a lift warning/brake warning just because the damned sensor is broken!
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      01-19-2014, 09:43 AM   #48
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Rear Rotor wrecked despite 4000 miles left in wear display

Fun fun fun.

Rear driver's side rotor trashed despite display saying 4,000 miles left on pad. Turns out our German friends did not grease the pin the inside rear pad slides on so only one side's pad moved, the side without the sensor. It wore to thin nothingness. The other side (with the sensor) was still thick. Not very happy, needless to say. I wish my wheel and tire guys had mentioned something to me...I was on rear tire set 3 at 65k. Maybe I have a speed problem???

It was a PITA to get my Beemers wheels off. I have never hit a wheel so hard with a rubber hammer in my life. My arm was sore for a week. Reason? Aluminum wheels and steel hubs, no anti seize. Galvanic action. Damn Germans and Stealerships. Thirty seconds and $0.02 of anti seize would have been nice. Or a plastic film insulator? Or Al hubs like on Vette's and other cars in this price range? Anyway...

I learned:
1). Anti seize on the hub faces where they press against the Al wheels is my friend.
2). Next time, slightly loosen the lug nuts on wheels and then drive around the block before jacking up the car to take wheels off so wheels will come off hubs easily.
3). Grease the brake pins.
4). Get a bigger rubber hammer.

The good thing about all this is "it forced me" to buy new drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads and wear sensors all around. My car looks way cooler now. eBay, great price. Cheaper to buy all this than pay the Stealership for plain rear rotors and pads and service! And as we all now, it is dirty but easy to change rotors and pads (as long as you can get the dang wheels off!!!). No probs with resetting car's computer.

These new ceramic pads give me almost no brake grime on the wheels! Stocks were filthy.

Still My rear brake pads appear to wear infinitely faster than my fronts. Perhaps I unknowingly use the DSC function too much? I like to go fast and get to speed quick! I need to pull the wheels soon and check.

My 15 year old will never drive this car. It is simply too dangerous as a first car experience. I love it.

Last edited by Boogster; 01-19-2014 at 09:51 AM..
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      04-06-2014, 10:44 PM   #49
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so im a little confused on this guys. my Idrive says I have about 10k miles on my fronts and 5k on my rears right now. If i replace just the rears and replace the rear sensor I can't reset the Idrive for rears or it will through errors?
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      04-07-2014, 11:52 PM   #50
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Well heres my situation with this problem. Right before winter I changed all four sets of pads and cut and connecyed sensor wires. Reset and brake light went off. About a month later after driving in WI snow and slop my red brake light came back on and red car on a lift. I put in 2 new ware sensors and could not get it to reset. Did the wire cut and cut off the new sensors and twisted wires together just to see if it would work. Still wouldn't reset. I checked the connectors and blew them out with air compressor just to be sure they were all good and dry. All pins were good. Plugged back in and still wont reset. So should I disconnect the wires and try to reset and then retwist together and then reset again? Will this work...maybe?
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      04-08-2014, 04:51 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarlicBread View Post
so im a little confused on this guys. my Idrive says I have about 10k miles on my fronts and 5k on my rears right now. If i replace just the rears and replace the rear sensor I can't reset the Idrive for rears or it will through errors?
If you replace the rear pads and install a new wear sensor, you can reset just the rear maintenance minder in the CBS without any issues. My question is, if you have an estimated 5K left on the rear pads, why not just wait until they require replacement?
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      04-08-2014, 08:47 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConceptE92
Thank god for this thread, because w/out it I would be lost.

A while back (about 5 months ago) I replaced my front and rear brake pads, but never touched the sensors. I kept the old ones in, and yesterday I received a code CCID 41. I went through the procedure of resetting, however after the reset I received a code CCID 71 and the red "brake" light indicator along with the car on the lift.

After reading this thread I am convinced that it is indeed the brake lights sensor. Anyone know where I can purchase the sensors without going to the dealer, and 2nd how hard is it to install? I noticed that the cable is a far bit tucked in looking from underneath the car. If anyone can provide a link to the sensors I would greatly appreciate it,

thanks,
You can get the sensors anywhere.

Amazon probably is the cheapest. Beck and Arnley make a nice after market version. Plan on spending $30-40. Double check the part numbers on Beck and Arnley website vs what is listed on Amazon.
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      04-10-2014, 02:56 PM   #53
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I don't have an iDrive on my 08 e90.
How do you check mileage left on the pads?

I had the yellow brake light came on about 7 months ago for the front pads and I kept driving it because the local BMW shop told me to do so since after inspection I still have live on the pads. He said to keep going until it hit the rotor because I'll have to replace them both anyway.
About a month later, the yellow light went away so now I'm not sure if it was a fluke or the sensor is broken and I really need to replace the brake now or I should wait until the BRAKE indicator turns RED?
Car mileage at the time was 50k and now at 55k.
I'm still seeing life on the pads from eye inspection so not sure.

Any suggestions?
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      04-10-2014, 05:44 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpe90 View Post
I don't have an iDrive on my 08 e90.
How do you check mileage left on the pads?

I had the yellow brake light came on about 7 months ago for the front pads and I kept driving it because the local BMW shop told me to do so since after inspection I still have live on the pads. He said to keep going until it hit the rotor because I'll have to replace them both anyway.
About a month later, the yellow light went away so now I'm not sure if it was a fluke or the sensor is broken and I really need to replace the brake now or I should wait until the BRAKE indicator turns RED?
Car mileage at the time was 50k and now at 55k.
I'm still seeing life on the pads from eye inspection so not sure.

Any suggestions?
I think you are getting confused. There are two warnings regarding brake pad life. 1) The CBS estimated pad life remaining (that's a yellow light and should shows the miles left); 2) a RED "Brake" warning light that comes on and stays on (that's the one your mechanic was referring to). You can check the pad life for the front and rear axles separately through the CBS system. But until the RED brake light warning comes on, the pads are not in need of replacement. Whe the RED light comes on, then you use the CBS to figure out whether it is the front or rear axle that needs changing by look at which axle has "--" (i.e. zero) as the remaining pad life estimated miles.
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      04-11-2014, 06:07 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I think you are getting confused. There are two warnings regarding brake pad life. 1) The CBS estimated pad life remaining (that's a yellow light and should shows the miles left); 2) a RED "Brake" warning light that comes on and stays on (that's the one your mechanic was referring to). You can check the pad life for the front and rear axles separately through the CBS system. But until the RED brake light warning comes on, the pads are not in need of replacement. Whe the RED light comes on, then you use the CBS to figure out whether it is the front or rear axle that needs changing by look at which axle has "--" (i.e. zero) as the remaining pad life estimated miles.
Thanks for the reply.


1) Unfortunately on my car (w/o iDrive), the CBS did not show any info about the pad remaining life.
As I said, I only saw the "YELLOW" BRAKE light came on about 7 months ago and all of sudden went away after about a month. I did check the CBS back then but it did not show any miles left or any indication it was the front or rear brake.

2) I have never seen the red "BRAKE" light came on at all (Knock on Wood). Only the yellow one and now they are no more.

I took it to the Indy shop and the dealership when it has that yellow brake indication.
The dealer off course recommended me to replace both pads and rotor on the front because it only has certain cm left on the pads. I asked them how many more miles do I have and they said the computer were all jacked up so they can't pull the miles. How did that happen is beyond me. I always took my car there for service since I bought it brand new.
Anyway, then I took it to the Indy shop for second opinion and after visual inspection, the tech said I still have a lot of life out of it. I will noticed right away when the pads are gone and when it starts hitting the rotors. Maybe he was referring to the "RED" BRAKE light.

I'm guessing your car probably has the iDrive, that's why you have more detail info on the CBS.
See here.

I only have the Brake Fluid light indicator showing up on the CBS.

http://wiki.bavariantechnic.com/inde...eset_E90_3.JPG

No other error code is showing up on the car. (Went to AdvanceAuto to have them check it)

So I'm afraid the car without the iDrive doesn't have that detail information on their CBS. I might have to get a 3rd party tool to read them. Anyone knows what it is?

Hopefully now it's a little bit more make sense?
And hopefully my sensor is not broken because I haven't seen the RED brake light so that means I don't have to replace the brakes just yet?

Last edited by cpe90; 04-11-2014 at 06:22 PM..
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      04-11-2014, 09:33 PM   #56
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If it were me, I would just spend the $40.00 on two new sensors and also replace the retention springs too. Make sure you clean up and grease up the caliper bolts.
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      04-12-2014, 06:15 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpe90 View Post
Thanks for the reply.


1) Unfortunately on my car (w/o iDrive), the CBS did not show any info about the pad remaining life.
As I said, I only saw the "YELLOW" BRAKE light came on about 7 months ago and all of sudden went away after about a month. I did check the CBS back then but it did not show any miles left or any indication it was the front or rear brake.

2) I have never seen the red "BRAKE" light came on at all (Knock on Wood). Only the yellow one and now they are no more.

I took it to the Indy shop and the dealership when it has that yellow brake indication.
The dealer off course recommended me to replace both pads and rotor on the front because it only has certain cm left on the pads. I asked them how many more miles do I have and they said the computer were all jacked up so they can't pull the miles. How did that happen is beyond me. I always took my car there for service since I bought it brand new.
Anyway, then I took it to the Indy shop for second opinion and after visual inspection, the tech said I still have a lot of life out of it. I will noticed right away when the pads are gone and when it starts hitting the rotors. Maybe he was referring to the "RED" BRAKE light.

I'm guessing your car probably has the iDrive, that's why you have more detail info on the CBS.
See here.

I only have the Brake Fluid light indicator showing up on the CBS.

http://wiki.bavariantechnic.com/inde...eset_E90_3.JPG

No other error code is showing up on the car. (Went to AdvanceAuto to have them check it)

So I'm afraid the car without the iDrive doesn't have that detail information on their CBS. I might have to get a 3rd party tool to read them. Anyone knows what it is?

Hopefully now it's a little bit more make sense?
And hopefully my sensor is not broken because I haven't seen the RED brake light so that means I don't have to replace the brakes just yet?
None of what you wrote makes any sense. The I-drive version of the car reports the same service information, but just in a different format. The CBS (Condition Based Service) service and maintenance information available to determine the remaining life of the brake pads is available through the non-iDrive version using the turnsignal stalk. When the engine is running and the car is stationary, you use the toggle switch on the stalk to bring up the service menu then use the slide button to select the menu then use the toggle switch to toggle through the 7 or 8 maintenance items that the CBS system keeps track of. Of those items is the front and rear brake pad life. The CBS only estimates the remaining pad life based on the rate of wear of the pad wear sensors. It is only an estimate, which is why the system also uses the event when the pad wear sensor is fully spent to trigger the RED "Brake" indicator on the gauge cluster.

If you let the car fully run through the brake pads without screwing with the system (i.e. removing the wear sensors and electrically tying them off, or replace the pads before they are spent and not replace the wear sensors) then it will not report a false reading. You indicate you've had the car since new and the dealer has been the only one to maintain it, so I think you issue is you just don't understand how to use the CBS and what it is telling you. I recommend you read the owner's manual to become more familiar with how the CBS works. If you haven't dorked with the pad sensors then just wait until the RED "Brake" notification comes up and doesn't go away.

As far as the advice the independent mechanic gave you, it is a bit stupid and misleading. You never should allow the pads to get used to the point that they have completely been used up where the pad backing plate (metal) is contacting the rotor. This VERY dangerous because the friction material is no longer on the pad and it is just a steel plate rubbing on an iron rotor, which provides very little friction and barely any stopping power. That situation drastically increases the distance the car takes to stop, which will most likely cause you to have an accident. But the pad wear indication system provides plenty of notice (via the RED "Brake" warning) before the pads are completely gone, usually several thousand miles.

If none of what I wrote comprehendible to you, and the owner's manual doesn't help either, then find a local BMW aficionado who can take your car and walk you though the steps of using the CBS system. Also when you first start the car, take a moment to look at all the indicators that come up during the self-test mode in the gauge cluster so you can see what the RED "Brake" indicator looks like (it's in the upper left quadrant of the screen between the gauges) so you are familiar with it.

My car is non-iDrive BTW.

Any finally, NEVER take your car to Advance Auto for anything.
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      06-16-2014, 05:53 PM   #58
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Thanks guys. Some more info. I changed back pads 2 months ago. New sensor, didn't need it but I broke it. Didn't reset anything, nor did I ever get any warning. Today I got the "brake" light coming home, code cc-id 71. Misiformation on that one going around. But upon reading this, I tried the reset. Noticed both front and back showed ______ miles.... I pulled the drvrs front caliper and even though I had about 50% pad remaining, the sensor was into the rotor. I still had my old broken sensor, cut it off short, stripped twisted together, and taped them up. I reset the front warning system, and low and behold, rear is showing mileage again. So, somehow they can interfere with each other. For me, I'm done with this nonsense(r) lol, as the poster above said. You can tell when you hit metal anyway. And these hard pads will have you changing rotors anyway. Wish I never bought the rear sensor. $28 is $28!

There is no reason that I should stare at a stupid needs service msg every time I start my car and look at the triangle all of the time, when I have 50% of my pads remaining!
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      08-21-2014, 11:52 AM   #59
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Help with the Front pad replacement

I am totally confused with the correct way to replace the brakes and reset the CBS.

I have a 2006 BMW 325xi with 64,000 miles.

Here is my situation:
1) 4 years ago, I replaced my rear brakes when the CBS indicated that they had around 7000 miles left. I initially did not replace the rear sensor and received a -16000 left indication. Then I replaced the rear sensor with a new BMW sensor and reset the rear brake portion of the CBS. It then showed 37,000 miles. OK; I am good.

2) I now have 7000 miles on my front pads and am planning on replacing them soon. I will replace the front sensor at that time.

Once I do the front brake pad job, can I just reset the front pad number in the CBS?

Wallyf
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      08-21-2014, 12:38 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WallyF View Post
I am totally confused with the correct way to replace the brakes and reset the CBS.

I have a 2006 BMW 325xi with 64,000 miles.

Here is my situation:
1) 4 years ago, I replaced my rear brakes when the CBS indicated that they had around 7000 miles left. I initially did not replace the rear sensor and received a -16000 left indication. Then I replaced the rear sensor with a new BMW sensor and reset the rear brake portion of the CBS. It then showed 37,000 miles. OK; I am good.

2) I now have 7000 miles on my front pads and am planning on replacing them soon. I will replace the front sensor at that time.

Once I do the front brake pad job, can I just reset the front pad number in the CBS?

Wallyf
Yes, you can reset the front brake wear indication separately from the rear in the CBS. When I do brakes, the last thing I do before lift the car is clear the CBS then do the work on the brakes. I always let the brake wear to the point tje red brake indicator comes on, which means the sensor is fully spent. I've never had any issues with resetting the CBS.
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      08-21-2014, 12:58 PM   #61
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Brake sensor is not fully spent

Efthreeoh,

Since I wish to replace the front pads now, (still have 7000 left), can I just replace the pads and sensor and do a front brake reset on the CBS?

Also, with 7000 miles, do you think the first wire is severed(opened)? I would think it is.

Do you know what the resistance of the second wire? A new sensor has a measured resistance of less that 1 ohm (most likely a dead short).
The resistance with the first wire opened is 470 ohms. See the following link: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=981050
Thanks

Wallyf

Last edited by WallyF; 08-21-2014 at 01:11 PM..
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      02-13-2015, 04:58 PM   #62
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CC-ID 71 (Just replaced all pads, rotors, and sensors)

OK- Here's my issue. 2007 328i Red Car on Lift light - when I hold BC I get CC-ID 71.

This morning I replaced front and rear rotors, pads and the 2 wear sensors. I'm still showing the Red car and lift AND now my red brake light indicator is on. My fluid level is fine but my E-brake isn't holding tightly. Before I work the step of adjusting the E-Brake, I want to know what I need to do to reset the CCID 71 as I know both sensors are brand new.


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      09-27-2015, 11:13 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glim View Post
Change your pads over 50% and your sensors will never touch the rotors

If you do not change your sensor cable please do not reset your CBS - your brake warning and SES will light up like a Christmas tree.
Hey Glim, that's exaclty what happened with my brake sensors. Just out curiosity I wanted to reset both brake pads even though they're still good. Now everytime I start the car, I get that annoying red car on a lift followed by the brakes symbol which is then on there all the time. Do you know of any fancy reset since the reset button won't work? Thank you!
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      09-28-2015, 06:36 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haywardw View Post
OK- Here's my issue. 2007 328i Red Car on Lift light - when I hold BC I get CC-ID 71.

This morning I replaced front and rear rotors, pads and the 2 wear sensors. I'm still showing the Red car and lift AND now my red brake light indicator is on. My fluid level is fine but my E-brake isn't holding tightly. Before I work the step of adjusting the E-Brake, I want to know what I need to do to reset the CCID 71 as I know both sensors are brand new.


Try resetting the service indicator!
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      12-17-2015, 11:33 PM   #65
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Guys please help.

My front brake sensor always stayed at 80,000km and the rear brake sensors always stayed at 5,000km for almost a year.

Any ideas what is going on? I have lots of brake pads at the front and at the rear.

I read through the whole thread in here. If I replace all the sensors and then reset the computer, will the car recognize all the sensors are new and reset the mileage again to a new number? What is the default number for the front and the rear?

Please advise. Thanks.
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      12-18-2015, 03:21 PM   #66
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I need a lil clarification here ....my front brake pads are worn down quite a bit ...CBS is showing 9000 miles for the front pads ...if I replace the front pads now along with the brake wear sensor ...will resetting the CBS for the front be an issue or will it reset with no issue?
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