[dbudh001]

i have a question,
im considering doing the Alpina flash for the transmission,
does this in anyway affect cobb?

do i need to uninstall the cobb first, then re-marry it to the car after the Alpina flash has been done?

im thinking it wouldnt affect it either way - but just want to be sure

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by dbudh001

i have a question,
im considering doing the Alpina flash for the transmission,
does this in anyway affect cobb?

do i need to uninstall the cobb first, then re-marry it to the car after the Alpina flash has been done?

im thinking it wouldnt affect it either way - but just want to be sure

No.

Alpina is a TCU flash.

[2008E90TT]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

What you dont want to see is a sudden and severe pull in timing. So if youre starting at say 5 degrees, you should see a steady climb upwards. Minor timing pulls happen, but if you see a serious timing retard, the DME isnt liking what its seeing.

Thanks, I'll post mine once I get access to Excel to plot the data.

[JStang]

Originally Posted by Jeffman

I saw that yesterday too when changing maps. I think it happened once before. Both times only since the Alpina B3 TCU flash. It clears if you clear codes, turn off the engine and restart.

Did you recently update to the newest firmware? I'm wondering if they changed something during the latest update. Maybe Cobb Tuning can chime in.

[Zasquatch]

Originally Posted by 2008E90TT

Thanks, I'll post mine once I get access to Excel to plot the data.

You should use my grapher, it will make things easier
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=665232

Timing drops >3* accross 3 adjacent cylinders are highlighted in red, and 0-3* accross 3 adjacent cylinders are highlighted orange. This way you get a quick glimps into what is going on.

[bimmertt]

For those taking their car to the dealer for warranty work, are you all flashing to a stock map or are you completely "unmarrying" the COBB from your vehicle? Or are these actions one in the same?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

For those taking their car to the dealer for warranty work, are you all flashing to a stock map or are you completely "unmarrying" the COBB from your vehicle? Or are these actions one in the same?

Unmarry the device

[deathbunny]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

For those taking their car to the dealer for warranty work, are you all flashing to a stock map or are you completely "unmarrying" the COBB from your vehicle? Or are these actions one in the same?

They are not the same. You should unmarry if you have to go in for warranty work.

[sickem]

Originally Posted by deathbunny

They are not the same. You should unmarry if you have to go in for warranty work.

This

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by JStang

I noticed this morning that I had a fuel pump plausibility code (2AAF) and cleared it. I get this code from time to time when doing a few WOT pulls so it is no big deal as I am running an E45 map on the stock LPFP.

When I cleared the codes this morning, the ABS light showed up in idrive and in the gauge cluster during the code removal process. Once the codes were cleared, the lights were gone and the code never showed up in my AP.

I tried clearing a couple more times and each time the ABS light would show up. Has anyone else experienced this?

The only time I have seen this is when on a Dyno.

[COBB Tuning]

Originally Posted by JStang

I noticed this morning that I had a fuel pump plausibility code (2AAF) and cleared it. I get this code from time to time when doing a few WOT pulls so it is no big deal as I am running an E45 map on the stock LPFP.

When I cleared the codes this morning, the ABS light showed up in idrive and in the gauge cluster during the code removal process. Once the codes were cleared, the lights were gone and the code never showed up in my AP.

I tried clearing a couple more times and each time the ABS light would show up. Has anyone else experienced this?

Its normal. Since I merged the code for the N55 and N54 products, there are extra modules it tries to clear codes on. The ABS doesn't like to lose communication while this is happening, so it triggers a warning until comms are completely restored.

-Josh

[davidwarren]

Whenever I uninstall or install my Cobb tune, the buttons (all of them) on my radio faceplate stop working. It happens sometimes when I change tunes as well. Anyone else ever had this happen? Dying battery?

[VNeBLOB42]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

Whenever I uninstall or install my Cobb tune, the buttons (all of them) on my radio faceplate stop working. It happens sometimes when I change tunes as well. Anyone else ever had this happen? Dying battery?

first i have heard of this. Try getting the battery tested.

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by JStang

Did you recently update to the newest firmware? I'm wondering if they changed something during the latest update. Maybe Cobb Tuning can chime in.

Yes. My Cobb firmware is up to date. Not beta...once had a problem with the beta firmware.

[BMJ]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

Whenever I uninstall or install my Cobb tune, the buttons (all of them) on my radio faceplate stop working. It happens sometimes when I change tunes as well. Anyone else ever had this happen? Dying battery?

Never had this happen.

[USCTROJANSFIGHTON]

Originally Posted by JStang

30FF is a code for a boost leak / underboost. Do you have logs?

Yes. It might be datalog 16/17 that trigger the codes.
It was at about 5000RPM when the codes came on.


Sorry I dont know how to read the datalogs.....or what they means.

[cwarren]

Originally Posted by usctrojansdent

Yes. It might be datalog 16/17 that trigger the codes.
It was at about 5000RPM when the codes came on.


Sorry I dont know how to read the datalogs.....or what they means.

please read up on how to do a proper data log it will help your cause greatly.if I had the link I would post it for you but I don't sorry. only thing I saw was some pretty good throttle closers and some pretty good timing corrections in another .

[USCTROJANSFIGHTON]

Okay. I read up on it.
Disable DTC.
Rev to 2500 RPM
Hit start
Floor it until the half engine light on.
Let off on the gas.
Hit stop

Here's what I got:



No other modification to car
Stock.

Is it common for Boost Leak to occur on DRIVE map?
That means i can go higher than 4000-45000 RPM with triggering this CEL?
Thanks

[Ænema]

If you're having boost leaks then you are going to have them regardless of the map. On a STOCK car the most likely culprits may be the diverter valves, however try calling some local shops and see if they can perform a smoke test... assuming you don't have any obvious loose connections, of course.

[davidwarren]

Originally Posted by tarponman85

Same thing happens to me.

I have no idea why.

well, at least are not alone.
I assume it is a weak battery. I'm not getting any other funkiness or battery warnings, however. I took it to the dealer for it the first time, and of course, it was working again then... But at least they have a record of it happening.

edit- I also very frequently get a 10-30 second delay in the stereo kicking on when I start the car. No sound (not even seat belt gong), display, etc... So perhaps that is also a sign of a bad battery.

[kctim]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

For those taking their car to the dealer for warranty work, are you all flashing to a stock map or are you completely "unmarrying" the COBB from your vehicle? Or are these actions one in the same?

As a rule of thumb, it's best to unmarry.

I will say after unmarrying and taking my car into the dealership to troubleshoot a very minor hiccup at idle ( happened after installing new spark plugs go figure), my service adviser called and asked me if I had a "juicebox" installed on the vehicle. He then said that he wasn't trying to void any warranties (I'm still in warranty) but his tech couldn't properly diagnose the car because there was no data to pull from or analyze. The tech told my SA he most commonly associated the "way my car was acting" with having a Juicebox installed or previously installed. I of course denied it, because hey I didn't have a "juicebox" installed . Later on, after hearing the SA and tech recommend a particular tune for my car ( not dinan) I felt ok about admitting the fact my car was usually running a cobb tune. My SA then told me to just leave the tune on the car for future visits so they could properly diagnose the vehicle. However, I will say after just blowing a charge pipe, the same tech and adviser denied warranty coverage because it was connected to my aftermarket FMIC. Bottom line, it's odd how dealership's treat mods. You never know what they throw up a red flag for.

I have since spoken with Cobb on the issue and come to my own conclusion, drive your vehicle a decent bit before taking it in, after you unmarry it. Otherwise, there will be very little data stored in the dme. Just my 2cents. All the previous dealer visits where I unmarried cobb a day or two before the visit, they never mentioned anything.

[Jeffman]

+1 on driving for "a bit" after unvarying before taking it in to the dealer. That's exactly my experience as well.