[Aced16]

Hey Guys, anyone experience code P2C77: Lambda probe after catalytic converter, Signal. I am running Stg1+ Aggressive and have already changed to Bank 1 post 02 sensor with no luck. Any ideas? Plugs have about 5k on them and are NGKs. I also run 93 all the time. This is driving me crazy!

[Gemballa1980]

Originally Posted by Gemballa1980

I just upgraded from a V2 to a V3 (because my V2 screen shat itself!) and since loading the V3, I get a yellow check engine light on startup and code: P2A18 - DMTL diagnosis module tank leakage, heating: input signal.

I was running a PTF map prior, however since my AP serial numbers don't match, I had to flash the 2+ agg map instead. The code didn't show prior to loading the V3.

Any thoughts?

RESOLVED!

Ok, so because I sent my V2 away to COBB (broken screen) I wasn't able to unmarry it. When my V3 arrived I was advised everything from my V2 would be transferred to my V3. It wasn't. SO when I installed the V3, it overwrote the V2.

Since the V3 didn't have my original ROM to read from, it just installed a generic one. There lies the problem!

Since Aussie cars don't have the same emissions controls as the US cars, and I now had generic US ROM, it was looking for the DMTL which wasn't there (or a different value?).

After speaking with COBB (and believe it or not, I found the COBB guys here on the forum a hell of a lot more helpful than going through COBB Support on the website); they stepped me through flashing my original ROM (luckily still saved) from my PC. From there it was just a matter of flashing any map and hey presto - no more codes!

SO EVERYONE: Be sure to back-up your original ROMs from your PC.

And a big THANKS to 'COBB Tuning' on this board.

[buylongterm]

Originally Posted by sickem

You asked about stage 2, but do you really mean hp delta between stage 1 and stage 1+fmic? Stage 1+ is more powerful than stage 2 (no fmic). It is absolutely noticeable. Cobb has a dyno section of their site that can address that. I would absolutely (and did) do downpipes before a catback if you're looking for performance...you won't gain much power wise with an exhaust...just weight reduction and better sound.

Oops. Your right. I meant stage 1+ FMIC.

Thanks. Any FMIC you could recommend? I talked to the service manager at dealership yesterday and he said don't worry about getting Dinan. A FMIC shouldn't void my warranty.

[sickem]

Originally Posted by buylongterm

Oops. Your right. I meant stage 1+ FMIC.

Thanks. Any FMIC you could recommend? I talked to the service manager at dealership yesterday and he said don't worry about getting Dinan. A FMIC shouldn't void my warranty.

There are several good brands out there, and dozens of threads on the subject. Really comes down to a 5 or 7" unit, the former being sufficient for most applications. ETS, helix, vrsf, ER, AMS, Cobb, AA all make great offerings.

[buylongterm]

Originally Posted by sickem

There are several good brands out there, and dozens of threads on the subject. Really comes down to a 5 or 7" unit, the former being sufficient for most applications. ETS, helix, vrsf, ER, AMS, Cobb, AA all make great offerings.

I'm going to go with Helix. I'll be buying it at the end of the week. (can't wait)

What are the HP/torque gains running Stage 1+ with FMIC?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by buylongterm

I'm going to go with Helix. I'll be buying it at the end of the week. (can't wait)

What are the HP/torque gains running Stage 1+ with FMIC?

Too many variables to really give you a firm number, but lets say Stg1+ agg on a dynojet is good for something around 350WHP.

[marc@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by buylongterm

I'm going to go with Helix. I'll be buying it at the end of the week. (can't wait)

What are the HP/torque gains running Stage 1+ with FMIC?

Taking a quick peek at the COBB database, you get ~80whp/100wtq over stage 0. stage1+ is very close to stage 2+ power levels.

Let me know if you need help with Fmics. We carry all brands and offer great prices

[buylongterm]

135Pats & Marc,

Thanks for the response.

What always confuses me is WHP vs HP and why we don't just use one way to measure TRUE power. Does it simply come down to marketing?

I'm assuming that when BMW claims the car is 300HP "stock", obviously that's not WHP. What is the stock WHP on a 335xi? 240?

If Stage 1+ aggressive w/FMIC is roughly 350WHP, what WHP am I currently at with Stage 1 aggressive?

Last stupid question. does HP typically equate to a specific WHP in terms of #'s? For example. 100hp =?WHP?


Appreciate all the responses.

[135Pats]

You're conflating crank and wheel horsepower. The crank figure is never what actually is put to the wheels due to drivetrain loss. So the quoted 300 HP from BMW is a crank HP figure. A bone stock N54 puts down more like 260-280 to the wheels dynojet.

[sickem]

Originally Posted by buylongterm

135Pats & Marc,

Thanks for the response.

What always confuses me is WHP vs HP and why we don't just use one way to measure TRUE power. Does it simply come down to marketing?

I'm assuming that when BMW claims the car is 300HP "stock", obviously that's not WHP. What is the stock WHP on a 335xi? 240?

If Stage 1+ aggressive w/FMIC is roughly 350WHP, what WHP am I currently at with Stage 1 aggressive?

Last stupid question. does HP typically equate to a specific WHP in terms of #'s? For example. 100hp =?WHP?


Appreciate all the responses.

What @135pats said. Also it is my understanding that RWD cars suffer from less drivetrain loss than our AWD brethren...so an xi car will probably put down less overall whp. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong here.

[Fedorov]

I got the fuelpump code, P2aaf, and as a consequence ( I think) I got the P29dc, cylinder switch-off, a while ago on COBB Stg1 Sport. I took the car to an authorized repair shop that I trust and the found that the applicable solution to the exact problem I experienced was to upgrade the car's software (has never been updated).

If this solution is the answer to this problem, would I benefit from this upgrade even when I flash with COBB again? Or am I most likely to go back and ask them "please upgrade/change my fuel pump because I run a tune and need a new one"?

What do you guys think?

[Gemballa1980]

3rd gear pull.

http://www.datazap.me/u/gemballa1980...-log?3-4-14-17

Can someone please take a look for me? My timings seem to be all over the shop.

Also, should I be logging anything else? I'm just using factory V3 logs at the moment.

Thanks!

[JStang]

You are getting some minor timing corrections on a few cylinders. After logging, did you do a few WOT pulls to give it time to adapt?

[Glowin]

Originally Posted by JStang

You are getting some minor timing corrections on a few cylinders. After logging, did you do a few WOT pulls to give it time to adapt?

He's got corrections in every single cylinder? And multiple corrections in most of them. IIRC, only one cylinder had just one correction during the pull.

[Gemballa1980]

Originally Posted by JStang

You are getting some minor timing corrections on a few cylinders. After logging, did you do a few WOT pulls to give it time to adapt?

Hmmm Actually no. Probably not a bad idea! I usually drive it around for a bit - hard but no WOT runs.. And then log it..

I'll do a few WOT pulls and then log. Watch this space!

Thanks!

[deathbunny]

Originally Posted by buylongterm

Oops. Your right. I meant stage 1+ FMIC.

Thanks. Any FMIC you could recommend? I talked to the service manager at dealership yesterday and he said don't worry about getting Dinan. A FMIC shouldn't void my warranty.

You might already know this but just incase you dont. Dinan parts can still void your BMW factory warranty. You are supposed to be covered by a Dinan warranty but your factory BMW warranty can still be voided even with Dinan parts. With that said I haven't heard of one person on here having warranty issues over an upgraded FMIC.

[tphss]

Originally Posted by deathbunny

You might already know this but just incase you dont. Dinan parts can still void your BMW factory warranty. You are supposed to be covered by a Dinan warranty but your factory BMW warranty can still be voided even with Dinan parts. With that said I haven't heard of one person on here having warranty issues over an upgraded FMIC.

It all depends, I wouldn't walk confidently into a dealership with an upgraded FMIC...
You never know the SA you're going to get. The first one I went to when I got to Atlanta and still had warranty was an unenthusiastic, unpleasant person who I am sure would try to screw me if I had a FMIC.

[D25mn]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

DME is obviously sensing a lean condition in one of the exhaust banks, but you’ve knocked out most of the typical culprits. Is the car drivable enough to pull a WOT log? If you’re running pump gas, it’s tough to believe that an OTS map would get you into trim issues. Hm…It could just be that an O2 got fried, it’s one of the least reliable sensors on the car and fails with alarming frequency. This would be the pre-cat O2, to be clear.

Wanted to update everyone on this. I have been Cobb Stage 0 map for about 2 weeks now. The lean code is not coming back, but when the car sits for 8 hours then you crank it, you hear a bit of a stumble. This is very indicate of fuel injector leaking. Last time I had to wait till I got the check engine code... wondering if I can get it reviewed prior.

[M3E46M]

Can anyone tell me if i got issues here?
3 Dyno Pulls Log File - pulling timing on all cylinders, normal?
366HP / 439 ft/lbs torque.

COBB tune STAGE 2 FMIC Agressive v4.02
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wsn0xhzmr0...yno%20Pull.csv


Thanks!

[M3E46M]

No takers?

[Carl Morris]

I don't like all the timing pulls, but it seems worse at light load sometimes than WOT so it's not as scary as thought when I first started scanning. What fuel are you running? I would back down to Sport if it was me, or start using ATR to make a custom timing map. I wouldn't run it on a road course that way, but it's probably not going to hurt anything on the street with just a few seconds of WOT here and there.

[135Pats]

I’ll look at that log when I’m home from work…but just putzing around town the DME uses timing corrections and ignition advance/retard as a normal part of its logic. There is nothing remotely odd or wrong if you are seeing timing corrections under partial throttle. It’s under WOT that you want to see things settle down.