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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement
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07-25-2012, 05:36 PM | #23 | |
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Visualizing your explanation is hard to tell but if it were me, I would either try to get the stud out without removing the cover, like a screw driver and try to turn it out, if that doesn't work, I would loosen all the bolts and lift the cover just enough to clear space to grab it with a vise grip or something. But that also depends on were the break is, hopefully it's easily accessible. I don't know if it will leak, but I myself wouldn't sleep at night lol. As for the plastic nipple on the cover, I would also say it's ok being mostly vapor runs through it. Keep your eye on it every now and again just to make sure. |
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07-26-2012, 11:20 AM | #24 |
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Thanks MrQuickR1. I'll try to remove the bolt by drilling it out using my bolt extractor. If that doesn't work I will remove other bolts and lift up the valve cover like you said. Luckily it was the front corner one so easy to access.
Since I was also replacing my starter at the same time as this job, when I put my intake manifold back on, I snapped my oil vapor hose in half. Gotta run back to dealer today to get these few parts. By the way I really like your DIY, the pics helped me out greatly with this install. So thanks a lot for making it. |
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07-27-2012, 09:33 AM | #25 |
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Well left it running for like 5 minutes and did a short test drive. I still have oil leaking onto my headers because I still have white smoke coming up from the left side under my valve cover. Seems to be leaking underneath that silver metal negative strap thing towards the back of the valve cover.
Also I noticed a metallic ticking noise now coming from my engine. Sounds like its around the fuel rail. Any ideas? |
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09-08-2012, 04:07 AM | #26 |
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Drives: 2006 e90
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Was going to have a go at replacing the Valvetronic motor as code 2a67 keeps coming up(Eml on ) and activates limp mode. Also it says 2a6b. eccentric sensor. Not sure which to replace. Thought the sensor would be cheap but's more expensive than the motor (Go figure). Got more of an idea now thanks to your write up i.e. Gaskets and Bolts. Thankyou
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09-08-2012, 04:19 PM | #27 |
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Does anyone know how to test the valvetronic motor?
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10-06-2012, 10:32 AM | #28 |
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Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
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Hi, wondering if you experienced any sort of odd noises before you discovered your solution. I'm experiencing an intermittent whistle sound (maybe once or twice a month), when I let off the gas. Shut car off, turn back on, sound goes away.
Last edited by mlifxs; 10-06-2012 at 02:10 PM.. |
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10-13-2012, 07:23 AM | #29 |
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Had to bump to find with the oil housing gasket. Great write up, guess we will get this done today
Edit: this worked great. Did my valve cover gasket. Thank you |
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10-13-2012, 10:46 PM | #30 |
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Just bought an '08 328i - so I am wondering how common this eccentric sensor failure is and the same for what appears to be leaking valve covers? Are these both relatively "normal" failures?
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10-15-2012, 04:25 PM | #31 | |
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Quote:
My vcg appeared to be leaking but I wasn't seeing much oil loss, so I'm not convinced its an issue (yet) |
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10-18-2012, 03:41 PM | #32 |
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Good deal. Guess I can look forward to learning all the "personality" this car has...
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Drive dammit. |
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11-25-2012, 02:45 PM | #33 |
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1st post...WOOT!...Great Write up! Kudos to you man. Helped doing a cabin filter, plugs, oil and VCG change on the wifes 07 328xi. occasional white smoke on the left side, oil smell in care during warm up, etc..usual suspects. This helped me out alot. had a leak under the Valvtronic motor (changed gasket also)...that VC bolt was covered with oil..would have missed it completely!
Plugs and filter went great, but the VCG failed! whoever did the last VCG change stripped 2 of the 3 bolts in the back(YES PEOPLE SUCK)..Got 2 out (replaced new)...but the 3rd, which is right by the DME box..was too far gone.. tried 3 extractors nothing...2 options left: sockect filled with JB WELD (and hope)...or drop the engine (HA!)...so put everything back together, tightened all the bolts just a little more...and maybe heading to the dealers soon for a stripped cover bolt removal... |
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12-18-2012, 04:05 PM | #35 |
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12-27-2012, 04:39 PM | #37 |
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Is it possible to just clean out the oil instead of replacing the sensor? In other words, is the sensor actually broken or is it just the connection? Has any one tried to clean the oil out of the connector, e.g. with an MAF sensor cleaner?
Last edited by dylim; 12-27-2012 at 05:58 PM.. |
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12-27-2012, 08:57 PM | #38 |
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doesn't look like it, unfortunately...
if you are having this issue, you should be able to get to the connector pretty easily without having to do all the hard work. and you should be able to see outside the connector is pretty dry, at least in my case. the oil seems to be coming in from the bottom side of the sensor. if you take a look at this pic from the OP, there are just 4 'plastic welds' that holds the metal plate down and that seems to be where the oil going in and up to the connector. I kept the faulty sensor and have yet to take it apart to inspect the inside of this piece. (maybe i'll do that so) Leo |
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12-28-2012, 04:42 PM | #39 | |
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Thanks Leo! Ok, no shortcut here. But if the oil is coming through the metal plate (is that the sensor?), then it will do so even if after replacing, so wouldn't the same failure reoccur soon? Seems like a very bad design.
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12-28-2012, 05:26 PM | #40 |
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yeah, i know what you mean... i only have ~54k miles on the car and it's out. I am afraid that it'll go out again after another 50k or so. lol! but then again, i can do the work, so just parts. but this damn sensor is EXPENSIVE!
Leo |
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12-29-2012, 07:08 AM | #41 | |
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You do not need to take anything apart other than the covers in order to expose the sensor (top part) unplug it and have a look inside. You will see the electrical pins when you look down in. Oil seeps up through them pins and as explained, coming through that metal section on the bottom. However to replace this sensor, there is no other way but to take the valve cover off. You can try cleaning, but with all leaks, cleaning it and drying it will not stop the leak...would be nice though. |
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03-31-2013, 08:40 PM | #43 |
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Problem when finished
Great DIY. I finished my valve cover (gasket leaking) and was very proud of myself.
Started up, it was a bit rough and was having a hard time idling. Drove home without any trouble beyond goosing it at low idle. Next morning was very rough, and now I'm even having trouble keeping it going after it is warmed up; engine dies at stop lights. Sounds like the injectors are clicking like crazy now too. I ran the codes for the SES light. P0015 'B' Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (this seems to be the important one) also got several codes related to misfires I am open for any advice. Below is my list of things to check. 1. Oil vapor hose (could a vacuum leak be causing this? heard this is fragile) 2. Check coil packs individually 3. Re-re-re-check sensor connections 4. MAF sensor cleaning 5. Vanos solenoid swap (could something have gotten loose with the cover off and jammed a solenoid; this one relates closest to the P0015 code) 6. I really hope I didn't cause a misalignment of my cams. I don't know how that could have been possible. I appreciate your help. This was my first "major" mechanical job on a BMW. I feel like an idiot at the moment. |
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04-01-2013, 10:04 PM | #44 |
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Update: Problem when finished
Update:
Swapped my Vanos solenoids after a thorough spraying with brake cleaner and shaking the crap out of them. Started right up, no problems whatsoever now. Must have gotten a small piece of rubber or something down in the solenoids. |
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