[Lockman_321]

There are many threads in relation to amplifying door speakers. But these all are relate to having the oem headunit. With the oem unit you are able to get the technic harness but I checked with them and you cant use the technic harness with the dynavin. So I want to share the approach I took to completing this install and I hope it helps any others who plan to amplify door speakers but have an aftermarket head unit (e.g dynavin).

I had previously installed a 12 1000w rms subwoofer. The bass sounded great but the mids and highs would get distorted at any kind of decent volume this is because the fronts and underseats were running off the Dynvain headunit. So when the missus bought me the MBquart 200.3 speaker set and the NSC475 amp for my birthday I knew it would sound much better

As I had a the base stereo system, I didn't have tweeter housings. Even though you can drill the exisiting ones and place the tweeters in there, I wanted an OEM look so i purchased the tweeter mouldings from ebay.

part numbers are

51337184197 - Left
51337184198 - Right

The night before I removed my sub box from my car as I knew I would need boot space for this install!

Here is the kit unboxed (with the tweeter mouldings)



underseats




First thing I did was remove the door panels. I started with the driver side. The interior trim pops out easily. You can use a panel removal tool on this.



Once removed, there are 4 torx screws that need to be removed



The next step is to pop the door off. But before doing this remove the light underneath the door you push it to one side and then it comes out. The door itself is held in by some plastic clips and it will pop out. Just be patient with it! You then have disconnect plugs which are connected to the door. I believe they are speaker, door, window connector and a light connector



After the door was disconnected the next steps are to install the crossover in the door, the new speaker and the tweeter in the new tweeter mouldings

For the tweeters I put the inside the new moulding and used the foam from the existing moulding to keep the tweeter in place



For the door speakers there are 3 torx which need to be unscrewed



Comparison of oem speaker and MB quart



Next I installed the Crossover. The crossover combines both the door speaker and tweeter into one channel but also splits the frequencies which go to each speaker. This can also be achieved with an amp but these 3 way kits come with crossovers. the highest frequencies are sent to the tweeter and the lower frequencies are sent to the door speaker.

The location in this picture below didst work in the end as the door couldn't go back on. in the end I installed it in the middle of the door (the gap below the speaker) and it fit properly.



You can also see I wired the speaker to the crossover and the tweeter to the crossover. I did this so when I got back to the car I Only had to wire the factory connector to the crossover output.

As I am using a crossover to combine two channels and I am planning to amp them I had two choices to get the speaker wire to the amp. Run new wire from the doors to the amplifier or tap into the existing factory wire into the door, then piggy back of the existing wire at the back of the head unit and run that to the amp. I didn't want to run brand new wire so I went with option 2!

First I took the speaker wire in the door that I unplugged from the stock speaker. If I had thought of this before I would have bought a female version to make a factory type connection. But as I didn't I cut the end of the plug off so i could connect wire to it to connect to the crossover



I then connected the wire to it using speaker wire crimp connectors. One thing to ensure is that polarity is correct. With most e90s, i believe all negative wires have a brown trace in them. I knew this was the case my e93 but double check when doing your car.



Heres a picture with the speaker connected to the crossover(before I moved it.



and with the door back on.



The exact same process followed with the passenger door (there is an extra screw when taking off the door) and here is that door completed.



At this point in time the door and tweeter is running off of the headunit as I had tapped into the factory wire. I turned on the headunit just to check it was working correctly and I had to say even running off of the dynavin the speakers sounded much clearer (although I hadnt tested them at higher volumes at this time)

The next step is to replace the underseats. There are two torx bolts on the front of the seats and 3 torx bolts on the rear. I think they were T45 torx (I didnt have that bolt size so bought T40, T45 and T50 just to be sure).

Once unscrewed just lean the seat back (there is no need to remove the seat)



next remove the torx from the speaker grill



Here is the underseat once the grill has been removed


To remove the underseat woofer you need remove the two bolts holding in the case. Once removed you pull the case away from the door and it will pop out. Disconnect the existing factory wire.

As many have mentioned the oem for base stereo has the under seat woofer running in parallel with the door speaker. This means that I couldn't use the factory wiring for the under seats and would have to run new wire for them.

Some times the parallel connection is in the door and other times it is done at the underseat itself. If you wish to tap into factory wiring (as i have) for the door speakers and tweeters, check the underseat oem connector. If there are two inputs into it, it means you can just unplug it and put it to the side, if there are 4 inputs into it, you need to loop the connection back round. otherwise the speaker connection will be broken and you wont be able to use the factory wire for the door and tweeter speakers. There examples of this on the forum so wont go into too much detail.

As you can see mine has two inputs!



I did both seats at the same time. here is a pic of the underseats with oem woofers



New woofers installed (with new wiring which will run straight to the amp)



underseats installed in car



As you have to lift the carpet up to put the woofer in you can run the speaker wire underneath the carpet to the where the door sill trim is. The trim removes by just pulling it up. It is held in with plastic plugs (the same as the door). From here you can run the wire to the boot by running to the back and under the rear seat.

running wire under door sill



Run wire under rear door cord by just pushing it in.



then remove the rear seats (they just unclip) and run to the boot from here.

The next thing I did this for both underseats and then screwed the grill back in then the seats

At this point I had all the speakers installed with the door+tweeter running off the headunit and undeseats not running off of anything as I hadn't installed the amp yet! before I installed the amp I ran new speaker wire and new rcas (for speakers and underseats) from the back of the headunit to the boot (i have shown how to do this previously on my sub install). To use the existing speaker wire (as the crossover was connected to the existing speaker wire in the door) I disconnected the wire from the dynavin cable rather than the oem cable that connects to the dynavin as I didn't want to cut the factory wire.

Dynavin wire layout


From the B end of the block i disconnected B3 Front right positive,B4 front left negative, B5 front left postive, B6 front left negative and connected the speaker wire which I ran from the boot.




By doing this I have been able to connect to the croosver in the door without the need to run new speaker wire in the door. essentially the wires have been connected

Door speaker and Tweeter ----> Crossover------>Tap into Factory cable in door---------> bmw fakra behind headunit-------> Dynavin Fakra --///Break Connection here////-----> Speaker wire ------> Speaker wire down the side of the car --------------> Amplifier


While I had the headunit out i also installed this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/N780-Mirror...s=miracast+car

it plugs into the AUX input on your dynavin allows you to mirror your phone to the dynavin when on the AUX src.


The next step was to connect all the wires to the amp. I wont go through this in detail as there are many posts on connecting amps. However the settings I used on the amps were

Channel 1 and Channel 2 (Front left and Front Right) - High Pass filter 150hz
Channel 3 and Channel 4 (underseats) - High Pass Filter 80hz Low Pass filter 150hz (so underseats play all frequencies between 80 and 150hz

and my monoblock amp for my subwoofer was already set to Low Pass Filter 80hz

Both amps in my boot.



Boot carpet back in with subwoofer on top.





Let me just say - Wow!!! I cant believe how much better the system sounds. The bass sounds so much deeper than it did when I just had the sub with standard speakers. I think its because I can play music at decent volumes without any distortion.

I can here things so much clearer and I couldn't be happier with this install. I would definitely recommend this speaker amp combination. I even tested it slightly before putting my sub woofer back in my boot and i think it still sounded fantastic and many would be happy with that set up alone. I feel like adding my sub to the boot just completely rounds off the sound and takes it all to another level!

I was very close to leaving the doors + tweeter running of the headunit. Although better than running stock speakers of the head unit I would still recommend amplifying them as you can get so much more out of the speakers.

If unsure about it all i would recommend doing it in stages (e.g. speakers, then amp, then sub and amp) as the end result is just fantastic!

Now I need to build a fake floor for the amps!

[jeffb335]

Great write up

[Rulz]

wow, that's a nice guide and pictures, thanks!
btw are this the one you bought?
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-INTERI...ds=51337184197

because i thought i will have to buy the whole sail for the twetter, this option is dif.

[ctuna]

the ones without the entire molding are for the convertible or coupe,
I believe. (which it even says)

[BeastMode335i]

Nice job man! Looks great!

[Bufalo]

Nice write up, glad to hear the speakers sound good as I'm considering the same setup - preferably without any trunk subwoofer. I know the Match system is very similar, has anyone compared them directly? I'd imagine that any differences between the two would be subtle, at best.

[maddmatt02]

how do you think the underseats would compare vs stockers w/o putting a sub in the trunk?

[Lockman_321]

Originally Posted by jeffb335

Great write up

Thanks buddy. Just hopes it helps anyone looking into doing the same thing.

Originally Posted by Rulz

wow, that's a nice guide and pictures, thanks!
btw are this the one you bought?
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-INTERI...ds=51337184197

because i thought i will have to buy the whole sail for the twetter, this option is dif.

Originally Posted by ctuna

the ones without the entire molding are for the convertible or coupe,
I believe. (which it even says)

Yes as Ctuna says the ones you have linked are e92 e93 ones. they don't have the entire moulding.

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

Nice job man! Looks great!

Thanks man! it sounds so much better than before!

Originally Posted by Bufalo

Nice write up, glad to hear the speakers sound good as I'm considering the same setup - preferably without any trunk subwoofer. I know the Match system is very similar, has anyone compared them directly? I'd imagine that any differences between the two would be subtle, at best.

I'm not sure about the match system but I can say without a doubt if you get these and amplify them you will be happy with the results!

Originally Posted by maddmatt02

how do you think the underseats would compare vs stockers w/o putting a sub in the trunk?

The underseats would be better than stock without a sub in the boot. I tested the system without the sub and it still sounded fantastic. One thing to remember is that I am running the underseats at 80hz - 150hz for mid bass. So im not getting deep bass out of them as I am using my trunk woofer for that. However if you ran them say 80hz down (like I am doing my trunk woofer) Im sure they could produce really deep bass, much more than the oem woofer ever could.

[Fray Bentos]

Great work dude. I've fitted my Quartz, Dynavin being fitted later this week and I have my XD600/6 next to me, waiting to be fitted. Can't wait.

[Lockman_321]

Originally Posted by Fray Bentos

Great work dude. I've fitted my Quartz, Dynavin being fitted later this week and I have my XD600/6 next to me, waiting to be fitted. Can't wait.

put some pics up when complete !

[DEE-83]

Hi Lockman,

I've been stalking the forums now for some time as member with no posts, but I am posting to personally thank you for your post.

I too have an aftermarket unit fitted which is similar to the Dynavin unit and I have been debating whilst highly onfused for the last two months on which system to get for my e93 convertible.

After reading your review and tutorial, I am now certain that I will be going for the MB quart speakers and amp you have plus fitting it myself.

In addiiton to the speakers and amp, i would be installing a MB QUART NANO NSC-750 Mono-Block amp for the sub.

Therefore can you advise on what size your sub is and where you purchased your box from please.

[DEE-83]

Never mind lockman, I am reading your build thread and the info is all in there great work BTW.

I am feeling inspired !!!

[Lockman_321]

Originally Posted by DEE-83

Hi Lockman,

I've been stalking the forums now for some time as member with no posts, but I am posting to personally thank you for your post.

I too have an aftermarket unit fitted which is similar to the Dynavin unit and I have been debating whilst highly onfused for the last two months on which system to get for my e93 convertible.

After reading your review and tutorial, I am now certain that I will be going for the MB quart speakers and amp you have plus fitting it myself.

In addiiton to the speakers and amp, i would be installing a MB QUART NANO NSC-750 Mono-Block amp for the sub.

Therefore can you advise on what size your sub is and where you purchased your box from please.

Ahh thanks! No problem that's exactly why i did this thread. Happy to know ive helped you make decision! and in terms of the MB Quart with that amp for speakers and underseats I think you will be happy with them!

I purchased the subwoofer, enclosure and amp from a company called caraudioz on ebay. They are based in croydon and the guy Jay who is company it is knows quite alot about BMW installs so in the end i went back to him for the Speakers and amp! heres a link to the box Sub Box

Originally Posted by DEE-83

Never mind lockman, I am reading your build thread and the info is all in there great work BTW.

I am feeling inspired !!!

Yes! thats what I like to hear! let me know how you get on!

[Yangorang]

I noticed that all the BMW underseat woofers seem to be solid on top and then the actual moving cone part seems to be on the bottom of the speaker. Kind of a unique design - but I wonder if this is done for purposes of long term durability? Like if any debris somehow makes its way under the grill with conventional drivers like the MB Quart maybe it'll be rattling around in there. Or perhaps they are just designed that way in case the carpet presses up against the speaker? Either way the MB Quart woofers sound much better.

[DEE83]

How easy would you say it was to run speaker wires from the doors through to the amp in the boot.

I've just picked up the exact same system which will be going into a convertible as well.

On a side note, I also purchased the door grills and the tweeters don't fit due to the foam insert's.

Did you have the same problem.

[DEE83]

Hi

Quick message to thank you for your with the write up, I fitted my speakers, amps and sub this weekend and couldn't have done it with out your post.

I am more than happy with the end result, however the tweeter's sound harsh, my ears are still ringing !!

In terms of wiring the mids, underseat seat and tweeters, i tapped into the original wires and I am running them as one channel, so instead of using 4 channels I am only using two and have bridged them.

Would this cause any damage to the speakers ?

[Lockman_321]

Finally had a a chance to complete the fake floor build!

As it stood my boot looked like this.



As you can see the amps are under the boot floor. It looks a mess and it was currently prone to overheating on long journeys!

To start the build we bought a piece of MDF and traced out the template of the current boot floor. We only did the front half of the boot floor as the subwoofer takes up the back half of the boot.



We then cut boot floor template from the MDF using a jigsaw.Next we measured the amp dimensions and drew these out on the MDF where we wanted the amps to sit



Once we cut out the space for the amps, we then took it to the boot for a test measurement. Luckily it was a perfect fit!




The next step was to place the carpet on the MDF. I tried to find a OEM carpet colour but I struggled to find a a match. In the end I went with a grey carpet hoping it wouldn't look to out of place. Here is the carpet I bought Link

As it was self adhesive the application process was quite easy. We used scissors to cut the edges of the carpet and to cut the gaps for the amps.

Below are some pictures of what my boot looks like now.






I know the grey is slightly different but I am really happy with this! I have got to say it came out much better than I imagined! We also screwed the amp bass controller to the floor so it has a home now. Also at night the illumination from the amps makes the boot look much better!

[DJWabbles]

Looks great and awesome!

[sfarisminhas]

I know this is an old thread but just wanted to say how similar it is to an install I did back in 2017. I had the same speaker set up, just that the HU was a double din pioneer and the sub was a JL 12". I had a mbquart 4 channel running the fronts and a pioneer monoblock running the sub in the boot. Fast forward to now and all that is slowly being removed. I've removed the amps and gone back to the factory head unit. Even though the pioneer was a great head unit and was feature packed, I was never happy with how the headunit fascia fitted. I just thought it looked ugly. So this time, I have opted to stick with the factory HU (still debating as I may go for the pioneer DEH 80prs) I have an Audison Bit Ten D and a JBL GTR 7535 5 channel amplifier. I'm going for the Audison underseat woofers which I'll be running to a 2ohm load on the 5th channel of the amp. They play comfortably down to 50hz. They will be bandpassed between 50-150hz. I'll get the Audison 2 way fronts which I'm thinking of running active. I have something called an istreamer which is a DAC that plugs into the auxiliary port in the console. The front midrange will be run from 150 to about 3-4000hz then the tweeters will take care of the upward range from that. I'm doing it in stages as in no massive rush. I will have the mbquart 3 way set to sell at the end of it and also a jl 12" sub.

[sfarisminhas]

Channel 1 and Channel 2 (Front left and Front Right) - High Pass filter 150hz
Channel 3 and Channel 4 (underseats) - High Pass Filter 80hz Low Pass filter 150hz (so underseats play all frequencies between 80 and 150hz

and my monoblock amp for my subwoofer was already set to Low Pass Filter 80hz

I am keen to know how you bandpassed the underseat woofers? You've not mentioned any DSP functionality? Does the dynavin or your amp have that capability?

[ctuna]

Most people attaching and amp will route separate channels
to each physical speaker location(counting tweeters as a paired with mids). And any decent amp will have eq controls on a channel pair basis.

Head units generally only have 4 outputs. So not separating floors
from doors there.
Dynavin only has 4 channels out.
There is DSP but it's only 4 channels.
(on the newer models)
See dynavin thread.

to get a total dsp solution you need dsp/amp that has as many
dsp amp channels as speaker positions.

[sfarisminhas]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Most people attaching and amp will route separate channels
to each physical speaker location(counting tweeters as a paired with mids). And any decent amp will have eq controls on a channel pair basis.

Head units generally only have 4 outputs. So not separating floors
from doors there.
Dynavin only has 4 channels out.
There is DSP but it's only 4 channels.
(on the newer models)
See dynavin thread.

to get a total dsp solution you need dsp/amp that has as many
dsp amp channels as speaker positions.

Originally Posted by ctuna

Most people attaching and amp will route separate channels
to each physical speaker location(counting tweeters as a paired with mids). And any decent amp will have eq controls on a channel pair basis.

Head units generally only have 4 outputs. So not separating floors
from doors there.
Dynavin only has 4 channels out.
There is DSP but it's only 4 channels.
(on the newer models)
See dynavin thread.

to get a total dsp solution you need dsp/amp that has as many
dsp amp channels as speaker positions.

I'm aware of that. What I'm asking is most amplifiers that don't have a dsp built in have either a highpass or a lowpass filter built in, so you use one or the other. So I get the fact that the subwoofer has been low passed using the mono amp and that the door components have been high passed using channels 1 and 2, but how have the underseats been bandpassed. The only way I can think is that they have been highpassed on the radio and lowpassed on the amp to give the bandpass that is needed?