[DAVID,]

Meh, these little brown guys circled in blue and purple are ceramic capacitors, which I should of realized since they don't have a "R" on them or color band like standard tube type.
These are commonly used in alot of electronic devices, I just opened my old broken printer and found a whole slew of them in there. I'm going to compare with the ones from my printer...I mean the tiny ones look identical, I'll have to find the bigger ones elsewhere.

[DAVID,]

All these capacitors I removed weren't shorted, I tested them off the board. They seemed shorted installed, but like I mentioned before the short lied within the MOSFET chips. I found that the outer legs are all shorted on them even disconnected, this removed the shorting conditions that were present where these capacitors were. Now all I have to do is order 3 more MOSFET chips X $4.90 and swap them out plus re-solder on those ceramic capacitors. From all my troubleshooting, I really do think this will work. (In other previous posts, I mentioned I was weary of the repair because a short was still showing on the valvetronic circuit, now with comparison of my new/used DME I'm pretty confident this will work) Ordering right now, I'll let you guys know at the end of the week when they come in how it goes.

[DAVID,]

Okay, got everything soldered on yesterday after work, just tested and P1057 fault fixed, however I'm in the beginning testing phase and have a P1030 fault now that is similar to the valvetronic motor, it says pending on the code reader... vehicle is running fine at idle. I think there may be something small that needs cleaned up on the board because final Ohms reading on this circuit (2 terminal/2 wires to motor) reads 6.55K ohms vs my good unit comparison of 6.56K ohms. This slight difference in ohms might indicate I still have a slight issue, however I'm not "Hard" coded. First thing I'm going to try now is the Full battery reset that X-Drive mentioned earlier on in this post.

[cuco]

Glad you are getting close

[X_Drive]

This is getting exciting now

[DAVID,]

Full battery reset did not fix issue. Still just P1030 code, I do note a rough idle sometimes. Up and down from 800 to 500 RPM sometimes. I noticed with engine off and V-motor disconnected the 2 pins from the connecter on it read 0 ohms... My valvetronic motor is shorted? This isn't supposed to have continuity, right? I also checked voltage and noticed voltage 7 plus volts go to each pin of wiring to the connector (disconnected while running), with this said I don't believe it should have continuity and I believe my V-motor is shorted internally. Thoughts? I think my DME repair is good... I thought originally the 10 ohms difference might be the cause, however with it disconnected I still have the P1030, the P1057 was occuring from the DME unit not have the correct resistance. Perhaps my V-motor shorted from the DME short under the water conditions and that may be when I seen my battery discharge over one night.

[GORDON.M3]

I did my valve cover gasket and after a bunch of random codes started to throw. Had VANOS and valvetronic errors. Had it plugged into ISTA-P and ran some re-calibrations with the service functions and now the power is all back. Before the VANOS would not engage and I would get a flat spot (no power delivery) right upon entering 2.5KRPM range.

[DAVID,]

Originally Posted by gordon@exoticstuning

I did my valve cover gasket and after a bunch of random codes started to throw. Had VANOS and valvetronic errors. Had it plugged into ISTA-P and ran some re-calibrations with the service functions and now the power is all back. Before the VANOS would not engage and I would get a flat spot (no power delivery) right upon entering 2.5KRPM range.

Are you suggesting that the shorting condition could be fixed by re-calibrating? That seems highly unlikely IMO, but I'm no expert. Definitely good info though.

[DAVID,]

I'm currently reading up on Valvetronic motor technical information, I found this on a pelican DIY replacement article:

"When repairs are performed on the Valvetronic assembly, the limit stops have to be relearned. You will need access to a BMW scan tool to do this procedure. The limit stops are the mechanical limit stop, end to end of rotation of the eccentric shaft. The DME (digital motor electronics) records these stops via the eccentric shaft sensor to determine mechanical adjustment limits of the eccentric shaft. With that said, when removing the motor to replace the gasket you are not changing the mechanical position of any Valvetrnoic assembly components, a relearn is not always needed. Now use this with caution and when in doubt, perform the relearn."

Still think there is another issue for it to be shorted though.

[GORDON.M3]

Originally Posted by DAVID,

I'm currently reading up on Valvetronic motor technical information, I found this on a pelican DIY replacement article:

"When repairs are performed on the Valvetronic assembly, the limit stops have to be relearned. You will need access to a BMW scan tool to do this procedure. The limit stops are the mechanical limit stop, end to end of rotation of the eccentric shaft. The DME (digital motor electronics) records these stops via the eccentric shaft sensor to determine mechanical adjustment limits of the eccentric shaft. With that said, when removing the motor to replace the gasket you are not changing the mechanical position of any Valvetrnoic assembly components, a relearn is not always needed. Now use this with caution and when in doubt, perform the relearn."

Still think there is another issue for it to be shorted though.

Had this exact issue, after relearning the car had all its torque back.

[DAVID,]

Cool, I was just doing a test and noticed with motor uninstalled, still plugged in, if I turn the spiraled shaft that Ohms readings begin to occur. I suppose this is meant to be shorted until rotation begins. I will do the relearn then.

[DAVID,]

I read from another thread this procedure for factory reset, not working for me (see below). I also read to adjust the allen key clockwise as you install, this eliminates the preload on the eccentric shaft and when I went to start now it was hung up and seemed bad...I hit stop immediately, gonna pull the Valvetronic motor and take a look... I think it was supposed to be preloaded with pressure because the two times I've already done it, I held it in with pressure and bolted it without doing that stupid allen key procedure like the "Pelican" article says too....Also, anyone know if their Valvetronic motor unplugged reads .4 or less ohms across its two pins? Appreciate the information if anyone knows.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Why would it have to relearn? Wouldn't its function be fully controlled by the ecu?
You are correct, there are two ways for it to relearn either ISTA/D or just pure mechanics.

Delusive wrote:

To the OP, there are two ways you can do this either relearn it with ISTA/D or remove the valvetronic motor and with a screwdriver push the eccentric shaft gear as far back anti clockwise as it can go. Insert the valvetronic motor and connect its 2 pin plug. Then switch the ignition onto position 2 and within a space of 15 seconds, depress the accelerator pedal down to full throttle 10 times and you will hear the valvetronic motor program itself back to factory spec.

[DAVID,]

I pulled it off and everything looked fine, put it back on without screwing the allen key and same thing, no start and seems to be hanging up, I'm gonna take a break from it, too much crap to deal with. Anyone see this sort of thing with valvetronic motor.

[DAVID,]

Gordon,

I don't have any special BMW testing equipment, not sure the cost someone would charge just for the relearn. You happen to have an idea of what is fair for that? I haven't officially deemed my DME repair as sucessful, it does differ 10 to 20 ohms on the 2 wires to the v-motor. 6.56K ohms to 6.67K Ohms (good DME) vs mine 6.54K to 6.55K ohms (10-20 ohm difference).

The factory reset procedure didn't work for me and after installing and messing with the allen screw adjustments while installing, this caused my engine not to start now...I've been reading all over the place with no success.

[X_Drive]

Hi guys,

As for the valvetronic motor, it is a good practice to perform the end stop re-learn procedure when removing the motor. However, with that being said, I have installed many of valvetronic motors and not perform the end stop procedure with an ISID/GT-1.

I have simply placed the motor back in its home, then pushed it in until seated. This should not take any real force. Then secure the motor to the cylinder head as per normal.
I then cycle the ignition 3 times(3 is a magic number for me), to ensure both throttle body and valvetronic motor are sweeping. Then start the engine. Valvetronic should in essence self learn its stops. During engine start up procedure, if the DME detects implausible lift values, the valvetronic motor will perform the end stop routine. Usually a check engine light will ensue afterwards.

A good indication of a bad motor is excessive wear or damage to or on the worm gear.
A indication that your valvetronic is faulty, is getting jamming faults or loud binding operation. It sounds sort of like a really rusty screen door.

I would take that bad boy back out and ensure that there is no damage to the worm gear or to the gear of the eccentric shaft. Also, the eccentric shaft gear teeth is very easy to breakage so jamming the crap out of the motor is not advisable.

With the motor out, the eccentric shaft should be in a default stop position(Zero lift). Unless you installed the motor cock-eyed and forced it to seat, there should not be any gear hang. I have seen motors installed cock-eyed and the worm gear, rather than meshing with the eccentric shaft gear, sits tooth top to tooth top. Essentially rendering the system inoperable.
All that was done was to re&re the motor and install levelled.

Also, pushing or adjusting the eccentric shaft gear all the way back to the other stop will put the valves at the full lift position and will not start if the motor was installed that way. I say place the eccentric shaft in its original position (zero/minimum lift position)and start from there again.

As for the resistance of the motor, I will have to find the specs. However, I do not think that the 20 Ohms of difference should be negligible at this stage.

Keep us updated.

[DAVID,]

20 ohms was referring to the DME circuitry difference between my DME and the new one in comparison. I'm asking about the VVT motor being 0 ohms from pin to pin. That's normal?

[DAVID,]

X-Drive,

I took it on/off three or four times, I'm losing count. No damage to either parts fortunately. I believe either my DME is still faulty or the VVT motor is bad (would like to know about if the pins on the motor are supposed to have continuity while not rotating). I'm thinking it's suppose to and my DME is probably the problem, but please let me know about the ohms if you can. The car wouldn't start after trying each time, so I started with screwing it counterclockwise while installed until it would start. Around 4 turns CCW it started, but hesitant, 5 to 6 turns started but wouldn't accelerate about 1000 RPM. 8 turns allowed higher RPM. 15 turns allows full revs, but still seems slightly hesitant and low rumble at idle. It seems I'm getting the valves in a good starting position, but it may not be changing position after I start...I still have the same P1030 code by itself. If possible, please explain the valve/lifting position/ optimal start conditions as I've mimicked through manual adjusment...It's a bit confusing and I think you are the right person to explain it as you have been for everything else, thanks in advance!

[DAVID,]

More info:

3 wires involved in powering this motor from what I can tell. Orange, red, and brown (red/brown go to plug and orange is in the E-box). Ign on/engine off with plug disconnected (checking between plug wires and orange power supply) I have 7.3Vdc between brown and orange and 7.4 between red and orange. If you plug this in to the VVT motor that is shorted at rest position (not spinning) it wouldn't make sense to be able to power it due to the short, it wouldn't work. One thing is for sure, my VVT motor is not operating at all. I think it is the motor rather than the DME at this point. Open to suggestions.

[DAVID,]

I take that back, I'm think its DME rather than motor because there is two voltages to power the windings of 2 terminals rather than one coming out the DME.

[DAVID,]

Applied voltage to motor, nothing, no movement...got new one at dealer, gonna replace after work tonight. New one has .4 ohms pin to pin and infinity between case and pins. Mine is partial shorted to the case/ground reading 10k ohms. Hope this helps anyone in diagnosing there Vvt motor in the future.

[DAVID,]

Put in used DME to see what voltage comes out to v-motor, looks relative with .2 Volts of mine. 7.1V and mine is 7.3V on both wires. Replaced it, didn't do anything. I think I'm going to try a relearn, if that doesn't work, maybe a new DME...either that or those 2 voltages coming in matched from both DMEs, maybe something could be causing the DME (both) to put out the voltage on both lines, i.e. a sensor somewhere else, eccentric shaft maybe? I'm having no luck here.

[DAVID,]

Removed CAS and mailed it plus key to RPMmotorsports in Canada on Thursday last week, Tuesday recieved new remanufactured DME at 10 A.M., plug and play works great. No problems so far.