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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Need help on Forge DV install plz.



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      06-17-2009, 02:14 AM   #1
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Need help on Forge DV install plz.

hello everyone.
i just got Forge DV today.
i installed forge dv and having trouble.
i thought front forge dv locked but it's not.
so i went to test drive engine malfunction pop up then when i open the hood
front forge dv pop up.
here's problem...i can't lock the front forge dv...i tried so many times. but it keep pull out....
anyone can help me with "lock" thing....and i think front hose is too long??
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      06-17-2009, 02:42 AM   #2
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if you put the dv like the picture below on your charge pipe (if you can see logos), this is wrong way. logos should be facing each other... if you look at each dv, one side is longer than the other. longer pipe is going into charge pipe and shorter pipe is to go into dv hose.

for the front, you can cut couple of inches. there's metal wires inside of hose so you need to cut that as well (can't do it with scissors)... oh yeah. you also want to lub inner piston and if you are running tune, you want to put yellow springs...

hope this helps...
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SGE92TT......................... 12.331 Sec @ 117.89 Mph............................POWERED BY
l BMS DCI l HELIX IC l FORGE DVs l RR OCC & CP & SCOOPS l AR 3" DPs l AE QUADs l BLISTEIN PSS10 l P3 VENT GUAGE l VISHNU PROCEDE V5 AUTOTUNE l Lots of Window Stickers

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      06-17-2009, 02:44 AM   #3
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jeez man learn how to write....
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      06-17-2009, 02:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hun77777 View Post
if you put the dv like the picture below on your charge pipe (if you can see logos), this is wrong way. logos should be facing each other... if you look at each dv, one side is longer than the other. longer pipe is going into charge pipe and shorter pipe is to go into dv hose.

for the front, you can cut couple of inches. there's metal wires inside of hose so you need to cut that as well (can't do it with scissors)... oh yeah. you also want to lub inner piston and if you are running tune, you want to put yellow springs...

hope this helps...
thanks.
well yea i put the dv like "logos should be facing each other."
but back one is not pulling out . it's tight...but front dv is juss pulling out everytime. i twist the grey lock thing to clockwise and i try counter clockwise....but still keep pulling out.....
i have no idea.................
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      06-17-2009, 07:42 AM   #5
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the rear one is a bitch to get out!!

to lock them in, i think you have to have the grey clips in the default "open"
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      06-17-2009, 07:48 AM   #6
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Does anyone ever read the instructions?

Straight from their installation guide:


"you will want to make sure the gray rings on the BMW connectors are turned counterclockwise before inserting the valves. This was the LOCKED position on the factory valves.

Insert each Forge valve until you hear it snap into place . The snapping sound is the gray locking ring locking the valve into place. Then gently pull up on each valve to make sure it is fastened securely."

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/FMDVN54.pdf
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      06-17-2009, 09:06 AM   #7
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ahh that sounds right. do you know why the rear one is so difficult to pull out?
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      06-17-2009, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
Does anyone ever read the instructions?

Straight from their installation guide:


"you will want to make sure the gray rings on the BMW connectors are turned counterclockwise before inserting the valves. This was the LOCKED position on the factory valves.

Insert each Forge valve until you hear it snap into place . The snapping sound is the gray locking ring locking the valve into place. Then gently pull up on each valve to make sure it is fastened securely."

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/FMDVN54.pdf
Thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xsboost View Post
ahh that sounds right. do you know why the rear one is so difficult to pull out?
After the locking ring is in the unlocked position (clockwise) you have to turn the rear DV a quarter turn counterclockwise to pull it out. It will then pull out easily.
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      06-17-2009, 11:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
Does anyone ever read the instructions?

Straight from their installation guide:


"you will want to make sure the gray rings on the BMW connectors are turned counterclockwise before inserting the valves. This was the LOCKED position on the factory valves.

Insert each Forge valve until you hear it snap into place . The snapping sound is the gray locking ring locking the valve into place. Then gently pull up on each valve to make sure it is fastened securely."

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/media/FMDVN54.pdf

hey thanks for your comment.
yes i put forge into gray locking ring locking the valve place. then i gently pull up each valve to make sure it is fastened securely but back on is securley but front one is keep pulling out......
seriously i don't know what's going on with front.
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      06-17-2009, 11:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxkpxoppaxx View Post
hey thanks for your comment.
yes i put forge into gray locking ring locking the valve place. then i gently pull up each valve to make sure it is fastened securely but back on is securley but front one is keep pulling out......
seriously i don't know what's going on with front.
The only other thing I can suggest is to cut and shorten the hose to see if the valve sits better in the connection.

If the hose is too long, it may be placing some pressure sideways onto the valve and encouraging it to not seal properly.

There are rubber o-rings inside the diverter valve connection on the stock intake pipe. You should be able to feel them with your finger just inside of the grey lock ring.

Check to see if that o-ring is missing.

If all this checks out, then your grey lock ring may be compromised, or the forge valve connection was machined out of tolerance (but I doubt this is likely)
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      06-17-2009, 11:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
The only other thing I can suggest is to cut and shorten the hose to see if the valve sits better in the connection.

If the hose is too long, it may be placing some pressure sideways onto the valve and encouraging it to not seal properly.

There are rubber o-rings inside the diverter valve connection on the stock intake pipe. You should be able to feel them with your finger just inside of the grey lock ring.

Check to see if that o-ring is missing.

If all this checks out, then your grey lock ring may be compromised, or the forge valve connection was machined out of tolerance (but I doubt this is likely)

ok cool thanks ilma~
i will check the o ring is missing.
i will let you know. thank you so much for your help.
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      06-17-2009, 12:08 PM   #12
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hey
I checked my stock divert valve pipe
but I don't see any o ring rubber inside
whole thing is plastic


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
The only other thing I can suggest is to cut and shorten the hose to see if the valve sits better in the connection.

If the hose is too long, it may be placing some pressure sideways onto the valve and encouraging it to not seal properly.

There are rubber o-rings inside the diverter valve connection on the stock intake pipe. You should be able to feel them with your finger just inside of the grey lock ring.

Check to see if that o-ring is missing.

If all this checks out, then your grey lock ring may be compromised, or the forge valve connection was machined out of tolerance (but I doubt this is likely)
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      06-17-2009, 07:19 PM   #13
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here's some pix of forge dv.

1st pix shows; (weir position) it's locked i try pulling out but no...it's locked
2nd pix shows; (boost line toward to driver side, which is regular position) it's unlocked.... it's pulling out everytime , if forge dv is that position.

3rd pix shows; this is grey plastic lock thing position.(i follow instruction over and over again.)

help plz
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      06-17-2009, 07:45 PM   #14
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That is the correct position for the grey ring to be locked (fully counterclockwise)

Either the o-ring has been dislodged and is missing or you may have forced the lock ring mechanism at some point and damaged it possibly.

Check again for the o-ring....it's difficult to see because it is just under the rim of the grey plastic connector.

If it's missing then it may have fallen into your intake pipe and could get sucked into the engine....luckily it's rubber so probably won't damage anything.

I don't think you are doing anything incorrectly......
With the valve removed, turn the grey ring fully counterclockwise (locked position) and then press the valve into place. You should hear a distinct click when it locks.

If you aren't hearing the click, and it still pops off, then something in the locking mechanism is faulty.

If that's the case, you need to determine if it's the o-ring missing, or the grey locking mechanism.

You can always put the stock diverter valves back on as well. If you get the same problem, then you may have to purchase a new intake pipe to resolve the problem.

This schematic may help:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...85&hg=13&fg=20
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      06-17-2009, 08:01 PM   #15
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Thank you
I have question
Then why 1st pix is not pulling out and 2nd pix is pulling out though???
I don't understand.
So it might be o ring or stock dv pipe rite?
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      06-17-2009, 08:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxkpxoppaxx View Post
Thank you
I have question
Then why 1st pix is not pulling out and 2nd pix is pulling out though???
I don't understand.
So it might be o ring or stock dv pipe rite?
I wish I had the answer for you, but I don't.

As far as I know, it shouldn't pull out once locked in place.

However, the valve body does rotate freely.

You can try one more time by making sure that when you push the valve into place to lock it, the boost line attachment coupler is facing as in your (edit) second picture.

Make sure you feel the inside rim of the grey connector when you have the valve out for the o-ring. If it's not there, then the unit may not seal properly. However, I doubt this would prevent the locking mechanism from working.

It's most likely that you may have used too much force to pull out the valve initially and damaged the grey locking ring.

As someone mentioned earlier.....the valve does not lift straight out once unlocked. You have to manipulate it a quarter turn and wiggle it gently to get it out.

Did you pull it straight out using a lot of force when you first removed it?
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      06-18-2009, 01:39 AM   #17
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again thank you ilma,

i didn't pull it straight out using a lot of force when i first removed it?
like i sai if i put forge dv like first pix then it moves freely and it's not pullin out
but if i put forge dv logo face each other, back one is tightened but first dv is pulling out...so stress.....damn....
well i try one more time tomrrow morning.
thanks for your help
oh and i look for o ring also when i try put this on tomorrow.
i will let you know what's going on
p.s. if i put forge dv face each other like( 2nd pix show) when i test drove ,
engine mulfunction came out. then i check the dv, its pulll out already.
i think caz of boost right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
I wish I had the answer for you, but I don't.

As far as I know, it shouldn't pull out once locked in place.

However, the valve body does rotate freely.

You can try one more time by making sure that when you push the valve into place to lock it, the boost line attachment coupler is facing as in your (edit) second picture.

Make sure you feel the inside rim of the grey connector when you have the valve out for the o-ring. If it's not there, then the unit may not seal properly. However, I doubt this would prevent the locking mechanism from working.

It's most likely that you may have used too much force to pull out the valve initially and damaged the grey locking ring.

As someone mentioned earlier.....the valve does not lift straight out once unlocked. You have to manipulate it a quarter turn and wiggle it gently to get it out.

Did you pull it straight out using a lot of force when you first removed it?
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      06-18-2009, 02:42 AM   #18
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Hey guys just have a couple questions...

If the valve is able to rotate after it's locked in (pretty sure it's locked in), is that normal?

I plan to use green springs with spacers, does the spacers go under the springs or on top of the springs? Seems possible both ways but I'm pretty sure they go under, just wanna confirm though.

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by Gen_E92; 06-18-2009 at 03:59 AM..
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      06-18-2009, 05:10 AM   #19
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This thread helped me alot to fix my car thanks for posting..
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      06-18-2009, 07:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen_E92 View Post
Hey guys just have a couple questions...

If the valve is able to rotate after it's locked in (pretty sure it's locked in), is that normal?

I plan to use green springs with spacers, does the spacers go under the springs or on top of the springs? Seems possible both ways but I'm pretty sure they go under, just wanna confirm though.

Thanks in advance!
DON'T put the spacers at the top of the spring as the top of the unit (the lid which screws off) has a vent hole for the vacuum line.

If you put the shim there, it will block airflow to the unit I believe.

Put the spacer in the main body (underneath the spring inside the piston housing).
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      06-18-2009, 07:48 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxkpxoppaxx View Post
again thank you ilma,

i didn't pull it straight out using a lot of force when i first removed it?
like i sai if i put forge dv like first pix then it moves freely and it's not pullin out
but if i put forge dv logo face each other, back one is tightened but first dv is pulling out...so stress.....damn....
well i try one more time tomrrow morning.
thanks for your help
oh and i look for o ring also when i try put this on tomorrow.
i will let you know what's going on
p.s. if i put forge dv face each other like( 2nd pix show) when i test drove ,
engine mulfunction came out. then i check the dv, its pulll out already.
i think caz of boost right?
Yes, the error code would be due to a boost leak with the valve not seated. Nothing really wrong with the engine - just a safety measure.

You can also try swapping the two valves with each other to see if the problem transfers to the rear. If it does, then the problem is with the valve. If it doesn't then the problem is obviously with the intake pipe.

Sorry...just thought of that this morning.
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      06-18-2009, 08:32 AM   #22
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2 things I have observed when I have installed mine.

1- Like you stated we do can insert the other end of the DV but it has a tighter fit so it may have enlarge the inside of the connector on the charge pipe when you remove it. Check the DV connector it has L groove embossed on the good end , the other only has a lip at the end , this end is for the bypass pipe.

2- The grey lock rings didn't lock in the same direction. The two on the charge pipe lock clockwise and the two bypass were counter clockwise on my car if I recall correctly. Look on the connector it has an arrow pointing toward the DV, the arrow should be aligned with a dot on the black part above the grey ring. Or an easier way to get the lock position, is to put the grey ring connector in one position, put your finger in the hole and press on the lock mechanism and see if you can push it if not you are good.

Hope this help out.
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